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stuartie last won the day on September 16

stuartie had the most liked content!


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  • Gender
  • Location:
    scottish borders
  • Subaru Model
    classic wrx jdm

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  1. Haha good luck with that, I've just had to be co pilot with my wee brother and I can tell you it wasn't easy but that's him passed his test now so don't have to do it anymore thank f**k
  2. Are you in the army then mate at glencourse barracks, I know that area really well as I grew up in Loanhead which is just along the road
  3. Welcome Chris nice motor you have there, I'm down in the borders but work up in Edinburgh for the scottish ambulance service at peffermill and I'm also a mechanic, my classic is now tucked away for the winter but might still see you around bud 👍
  4. Hi mate the coilpack conversion is pretty straight forward, I managed to do it easily and I'm no sparky, I used this site for guidance, https://www.jamessimpson.co.uk/classic-impreza-new-age-coil-pack-conversion/ Hope this helps 👍
  5. Hi, if you look on import car parts website they have all the parts listed and it's really easy to navigate their site, just select your model from the list then you'll see the sub sections for all different parts of the car 👍
  6. Have you tried sports car breakers at Newbridge or u pull it in Inverkeithing just over the forth Bridge, they are the only 2 I can think of around there off the top of my head
  7. Hello and welcome, unfortunately the subaru diesel engine seems to be a bit of a plum really with loads of failures main one being the crankshaft, they did revise the crank on later models but it's still not a very good power unit and the cost to repair seems uneconomical as there are loads of scoob diesels out there for spare or repair with failed engines, if I were you I would go for a petrol model as they are so much more reliable
  8. Hi Rob, try automotive repair panels on Facebook they do panels for all sorts of scoob so would be worth a try 👍
  9. Hello, I don't think that's a light, I'm pretty sure that's a motion sensor for your alarm system
  10. The garage you are using will have to use their diagnostics to tell the car they have fitted a new dpf, I would also have them check the egr valve incase it has jammed shut/open as this can also cause dpf faults and get them to check the differential pressure sensor, this sensor measures the back pressure before and after the dpf honeycomb and this is how the ecu calculates the fill level if one of these pipes is blocked with carbon it could give a false reading, the only way to really know how much soot there is inside the dpf is to trust what the diagnostics are telling you or taking it off and shining a light through,
  11. The first fault code is for soot fill level and the second for reduced engine power because of the soot level, the dpf won't regen if there are active faults and because the soot level is 136% it won't regen even if you were to manage to get the fault codes deleted, you will have to tell the ecu that a new dpf has been fitted which should set all the parameters back to 0% then try do a forced regen again then if it works you'll have to change the oil and filter
  12. Hi get them to check the ash content with the diagnostic machine, they should be able to access the parameters which should tell them the fill level of ash and what the threshold for the ash should be, unfortunately if the ash content is too high you will have to either remove the dpf and get it put in an autoclave oven to get the ash out or a company such as terraclean with a big fancy machine should be able to clean it out, the problem is the soot gets burned off during a regeneration which creates the ash which can't be burned off as its ash, a lot of these dpf cleaning fluids are not up to the job they might remove some of the soot and carbon build up but not ash also it will not regen if there is an active fault, do you know what fault is coming up on their diagnostics
  13. Hi there, I've been down to my garage to have a look at the pipes on my engine, I'm not sure if it's the same as mines is a '92' v1 but here goes, 1 goes to boost gauge and to solenoid, 2 goes to dump valve/recirculation valve, 3 is the crankcase breather pipe, 4 to dump valve/recirculation valve mines is blanked off because I have a dump valve fitted, 5 not sure as I don't have that port on mine,6 cylinder head breather pipes, 7 I think loops to the map sensor, 8&9 go to 2 little pipes which run under the inlet and go to vacuum pipe at throttle body and to the pipe to the right hand side of pipe 1 when looking at it from the front or the n/s if you were sitting in the cab, I took these pics if they help.
  14. Hi there, not sure what that is but it could be a non return valve to stop the fuel running back from the fuel pump 👍
  15. Hello not really on the ball with the newage stuff but they are pretty straightforward to work on even though it doesn't look like it, for the likes of service kits try opie oils they will sort you out with the correct grade oil and filter, for most other parts I use import car parts they have a good stock of oem parts at reasonable prices, spark plugs can be changed from underneath or if it's much the same as the classic layout you can take the battery out and I think the air filter housing and you can get them from the top, you will need a wobble joint extention just to make it a bit easier to get in to oh and a swear jar and some plasters 😂, not sure about the lower arms but I think you can get the ball joints separately 👍
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