stuartie

Get the garage to check the ash content of the dpf as this is what needs cleaned out because you can't burn ash, once the ash content gets above a pre set weight calculated by the ecu through the amount of regens that have been fully carried out, the reason there's fuel in your oil is because during a regen it chucks in loads of fuel to get up to the required temperatures to burn off the soot

Sorry to hear about your friends problem, unfortunately the engine will probably have to come out to do such a job because of the flat four layout, the heads are really close to the chassis legs, there is really only just enough room to change the spark plugs never mind fitting a helicoil, a decent garage with experience of the subaru engine should be able to remove the engine in a couple of hours and I'm sorry but I don't know of any garages down your way who could possibly do this

Hi mate the coilpack conversion is pretty straight forward, I managed to do it easily and I'm no sparky, I used this site for guidance, https://www.jamessimpson.co.uk/classic-impreza-new-age-coil-pack-conversion/ Hope this helps 👍

Hi, if you look on import car parts website they have all the parts listed and it's really easy to navigate their site, just select your model from the list then you'll see the sub sections for all different parts of the car 👍

Have you tried sports car breakers at Newbridge or u pull it in Inverkeithing just over the forth Bridge, they are the only 2 I can think of around there off the top of my head

Hello and welcome, unfortunately the subaru diesel engine seems to be a bit of a plum really with loads of failures main one being the crankshaft, they did revise the crank on later models but it's still not a very good power unit and the cost to repair seems uneconomical as there are loads of scoob diesels out there for spare or repair with failed engines, if I were you I would go for a petrol model as they are so much more reliable

Hello, I don't think that's a light, I'm pretty sure that's a motion sensor for your alarm system

The garage you are using will have to use their diagnostics to tell the car they have fitted a new dpf, I would also have them check the egr valve incase it has jammed shut/open as this can also cause dpf faults and get them to check the differential pressure sensor, this sensor measures the back pressure before and after the dpf honeycomb and this is how the ecu calculates the fill level if one of these pipes is blocked with carbon it could give a false reading, the only way to really know how much soot there is inside the dpf is to trust what the diagnostics are telling you or taking it off and shining a light through,

The first fault code is for soot fill level and the second for reduced engine power because of the soot level, the dpf won't regen if there are active faults and because the soot level is 136% it won't regen even if you were to manage to get the fault codes deleted, you will have to tell the ecu that a new dpf has been fitted which should set all the parameters back to 0% then try do a forced regen again then if it works you'll have to change the oil and filter

Hi get them to check the ash content with the diagnostic machine, they should be able to access the parameters which should tell them the fill level of ash and what the threshold for the ash should be, unfortunately if the ash content is too high you will have to either remove the dpf and get it put in an autoclave oven to get the ash out or a company such as terraclean with a big fancy machine should be able to clean it out, the problem is the soot gets burned off during a regeneration which creates the ash which can't be burned off as its ash, a lot of these dpf cleaning fluids are not up to the job they might remove some of the soot and carbon build up but not ash also it will not regen if there is an active fault, do you know what fault is coming up on their diagnostics

Hi there, I've been down to my garage to have a look at the pipes on my engine, I'm not sure if it's the same as mines is a '92' v1 but here goes, 1 goes to boost gauge and to solenoid, 2 goes to dump valve/recirculation valve, 3 is the crankcase breather pipe, 4 to dump valve/recirculation valve mines is blanked off because I have a dump valve fitted, 5 not sure as I don't have that port on mine,6 cylinder head breather pipes, 7 I think loops to the map sensor, 8&9 go to 2 little pipes which run under the inlet and go to vacuum pipe at throttle body and to the pipe to the right hand side of pipe 1 when looking at it from the front or the n/s if you were sitting in the cab, I took these pics if they help.

Hi there, not sure what that is but it could be a non return valve to stop the fuel running back from the fuel pump 👍

Hello not really on the ball with the newage stuff but they are pretty straightforward to work on even though it doesn't look like it, for the likes of service kits try opie oils they will sort you out with the correct grade oil and filter, for most other parts I use import car parts they have a good stock of oem parts at reasonable prices, spark plugs can be changed from underneath or if it's much the same as the classic layout you can take the battery out and I think the air filter housing and you can get them from the top, you will need a wobble joint extention just to make it a bit easier to get in to oh and a swear jar and some plasters 😂, not sure about the lower arms but I think you can get the ball joints separately 👍

I think that pipe should go to the solenoid just above the boost solenoid on the n/s strut tower, its next to the air filter and has that little orange plug going to it as for the idle problem the T piece thingy that the breather pipes and the pipe to the idle control valve go to gets brittle and cracks, it's located under the recirculation valve 👍

Hello, that looks like the level sensor for the headlights and it looks as though that bracket is part of the bottom arm so you would either have to fit a new arm or see if the bracket will weld back on 👍