Boost control solenoid? Help

[Dovo1]

Hi everyone I was just wondering if there was anyway to tell if my control boost solenoid isn't working or if I can fix it I own a 2007 hawk eye 2.5ltr wrx and I've had a serious loss of power and been told it could be this I've attached a photo of Google so pic is just for reference if anyone could shed some light on this it would be very much appreciated.

[savage bulldogs]

I haven't worked on a hawk before but that looks like a purge valve 🤔

Is it under the inlet manifold or near the drivers side suspension turret under a plastic cover (that's where the boost solenoid  is)?

You could try cleaning the boost solenoid with brake cleaner to see if that helps  . Or by pass the boost solenoid control system altogether by connecting a vac line from turbo outlet to actuator,  this should give you actuatorated boost (same strength as your actuator spring, normally around 0.6 to 0.8 bar ) . This might help rule out any issues with the boost control system and if it's the same ,look for splits in the air intake or tmic y pipe that could cause a boost leak .

Just make sure if you remove any vacuum lines that you take note where they go back to 😉

[Dovo1]

This was super helpful thank you I will Defos try bypassing it but there are two vac lines one to the inlet pipe for the turbo and one that connects to a T piece bridging the waste gate and the turbo

[savage bulldogs]

I've by passed a few classic boost control systems using actuated boost and you get a engine management light which goes off soon as the system was reconnected.  I mentioned this as I dont know if a newer ecu will "self delete " the boost control code and turn the light off, when it senses the boost control system is plugged back in afterwards . So it might need a ECU code read /reset afterwards (I've never done it myself on a newer model) 

Just take pics / note of where the vac lines run , then unplug the one on the turbo outlet and actuator. Use a bit of vacuum line to run straight from outlet to actuator and make sure any lines you disconnect are plugged with bolts and tied up so they don't flap about in the bay .

Give it a half throttle run and see if there's any improvement,  then try a full throttle run . If you have better performance then my monies on the boost control solenoid or vac lines .

If not air leak somewhere between maf and throttle body would be the next thing I'd check for 

[Dovo1]

Thank you savagebulldog this really helped I will try all this tommorow and hopefully this will tell me wats finally causing my power loss been a long time coming lol 😂 

[savage bulldogs]

Have you had the ECU checked for fault codes , if not a Bluetooth odb2 adapter and the torque app will show most ECU codes and possibly clear a few .

Have you got a boost gauge and if so what does it read . 

Hopefully its something simple , bud 

[Dovo1]

I've checked the car with my code reader and it read no faults/no pending codes and no stored codes so I hooked it up to read live data and took it a run and found when I watched the boost as I accelerated hard the boost wasn't spiking on the graph it had slowly climbed the best way I could describe it would be a upside down U shape on the graph I forgot to record the data so unfortunately didn't get the reading for the boost not sure if that helps.

[savage bulldogs]

It was more about boost peak level and if it held boost . As if it didn't make stock boost 0.6 to 0.8 bar standard (pending on model) when "actuated boost" is set up . It would indicate a leak or faulty actuator diaphragm/spring .