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'W' reg Subaru Legacy GL Auto 2.0 (BE5)


dryvebye
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I have a somewhat tired example to go here, but someone may have the time to change some parts.

The engine is an EJ20, Auto Gearbox code TZ1A4ZRAAA-WG, bought it with 117000 miles, currently 158000 on the clock and 15" old impreza style alloys.

It was unloved when I bought it. The gearbox didn't move the car, so took the valve body apart, cleaned the muck out of it, put it back together, changed filter, filled with Dexron III. It still has a fault described below, but moves the car as it should. Changed gearbox/both diff/engine oil and filters, spark plugs regularly myself. Replaced full cambelt set with water pump at 118000. According to service manual they last 105000 miles. Front wheel bearings are new, discs and pads replaced as needed in pairs (front/rear). Air conditioning works. Noticed some bubbling on the sills, so took care of that, but it has some surface rust again (see pics). Good thread all around, but somewhat oddly fitted tyres(two identical, directional M+S on the drivers side, another M+S and a summer tyre on the passenger side), due to a nightmare tyre fitting service a few months ago... (waited 3 hours, didn't get what I wanted, they wanted to convince me its my fault...left them a nice review).

Underside is solid. I went to europe in the winter of 2017 and done about 4700 miles in it. (BMWs and the rest couldn't keep up on the snow covered motorway ;). Joy of AWD)  

There is no MOT on it since 21 Jan 2020. Had to buy an MPV to move the family around.

Pictures will follow, here are the problems:

Since I bought it in 2016, the engine management light comes and goes. It loses power when its on. Couldn't read it with an ODBII scanner, so still not sure about the problem, but suspect the gearbox. It also starts with an auxiliary belt screech, which lasts some time after the engine gets to temperature, but goes eventually. I suspect a crankshaft pulley problem, and bought a used replacement. I wonder if it will work.

Gearbox has a delay when I put it in drive, so I have to raise the revs a bit. It is fine after that. Also, It kicks when changes back from 4th to 3rd (once again, all these, since I bought it). The closest I got to finding the problem was a topic about faulty valves in the valve body.

Front driveshafts will need changing, I have one on stock, it will go with the car.

Exhaust gas leak between cat converter and middle box (needs a exhaust ring seal, don't have that).

Sometimes there is brake judder from above 50mph (downhill only... interesting)

It has some small dents, front bumper has a small crack and many marks. Rear bumper has a deep scratch on the left. Boot lid is somehow skew and lets water in at speed, so boot liners are gone. Lacquer has peeled off of most of the bonnet. Rims are also loosing paintwork, in need of refurbishing.

Drivers seat height adjustment doesn't work, drivers side air went is broken. 

It has some rust on the inside of the rear wheel arches now.

There is surface rust on the front and rear suspension components.

Viewing is welcome and take a suitable code reader with you if you can as well.

I am in Waltham Chase, Hampshire. Text me on 07712 245645 or post here.

Thank you,

Dennis Lamont

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  • 3 weeks later...

Here is the list and pictures of the parts included.

New:

  • 1 engine to downpipe gasket
  • 1 pack of front brake pad fitting kit
  • 1 front wheel bearing
  • 1 front wheel hub
  • a pair of front brake discs
  • a pair of rear brake discs
  • 5l Mannol 5w30, SN/CH-4, C3 Fully Synthetic engine oil
  • 2 pairs of snow chains (I bought them for my european trip, but didn't have to use them. It won't fit the my other cars, so its included. Practised how to put them on once.)

Used:

  • 1 front driveshaft
  • 1 spare steel rim
  • 1 crankshaft pulley with bolt
  • 1 ignition coil
  • 3 spare ignition leads
  • tyre 205/55/15 from the original set I had on
  • tyre 195/65/15 from the left rear (the fourth had a piece slashed out of it by a nice piece of metal on the road near a farm...)

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