Guidance Just Bought WRX 2.5T 2007

[Wackapayne]

I have recently purchased a WRX 2.5T UK version 230bhp.

I have some questions about the car I am trying to revert the mods the previous owner done.

1. The stock recirculation valve or waste gate was replaced with a cheap **** dump Valve venting to atmosphere.

2. It seems the fuel filter has been removed see images. or is this just intank filter ?. Is there any pros/cons to adding/removing the filter ?

3. The engine was very dirty and looks like very dried coolant on/under the intake manifold.

4. Will these mods make the fuel economy so poor? I would see the dump valve will make it run rich ?I must be on around 12/15 mpg.

5. The brake booster rusting is this common and maybe some caliper paint would be a good idea? 

6. What tips can anyone offer for longevity of these cars.

 

 

 

 

 

[Jay762]

Wotcha and welcome.

dump valve - easily reverted to a recirc from a vent to atmosphere, yes they can make the car run rich as the air that has passed the maf means the ECU is pumping in fuel expecting it to all be there but it has just been vented where as the fuel is still being pumped in. MPG can also be dependent on your driving style. A bespoke map even with a standard setup can get extra midrange which helps overall mpg although I must admit I would expect more like 28 - 30 for your motor

Fuel filter - no idea for your model but they do have an intank one

green stuff on manifold - this could be the stuff subaru sprays all over the bay bay as a corrosion resistor but check your hoses and cap for any coolant leakage.

Rusty brake booster - Subaru metal protection is not great, I am powder coating a lot of my painted stuff but also use ACF50

[Tidgy]

Welcome,

1, as above

2, picture looks standard to me, what do you think is missing?

3, as above, anti corrosion stuff, nerwer cars seem the get dipped in them they chuck that much on them haha

4, mpg depends how you drive it, but 12 seems low, Are you running it on vpower/99? does it have any mods bar the dumpvalve? can you get it on a rolling road to find out whats going on?

5, rusty bits are pretty normal

6, Regular oil changes, 3k or 5k depending on how you drive it, if hard more regular changes. Always keep on top of maintenance, running it on decent fuel 99 ron. If theres an issue (eg stutters on power, check engine light etc etc) dont try to drive through it, get it checked out.

[Wackapayne]

It was confused about the filter however, it seems although it's an option according to parts catalogs I don't need one. But under the rear seat I didn't see the fuel connections ( I need a manual)

Yes the green stuff was the wax from factory. I cleaned most of it and upgrading to silicone hoses due to the rubber being very soft and feeling worn.

As for rust, I have shelled out on some paint and treat ment and slow time going to work my way around the car( chasing my tail maybe lol)

I will be changing oil every 5k miles. I don't hammer it much and using good grade oil. I see the oil filter has changed to a small one? Any upgrades on a longer filter?

The engine runs sweet using FreeSSM to check for errors and look/record data, so I have a bench mark when something goes wrong.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Tidgy]

The stock oil filter is fine, mines setup as a 500bhp daily and runs stock, i also know full blown race cars still running them 🙂

 

A good way to check all ok is chuck it on a dyno, can check AFR's, det etc etc that wont be shown up by the ecu alot of the time.