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Key transmitter


Tony Hals
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Can anyone please advise? in the space of a week, all the keys for my two Foresters have failed. An hour ago, I drove my 2004 Forester 100 metres to put the rubbish bags out. It unlocked, started and drove both directions. I parked and the key would not operate the locking system. Put the key in the ignition, turned key, all lights came on, but engine /starter motor did not react. Same thing happened with my 2007 Forester last week. It was due to go to a garage for some welding underneath -that's another horror story- With the 2007 Forester, I called out the RAC. The key problem was not solved, but with the ignition turned on, he connected the car Battery to the starter motor and started the Forester so I was able to drive it to the Garage. It's still there, so I don't know if they have solved the keys problem. Yes, I have purchased a pack of 3v 1620 batteries as specified in the hand book, but none of the 4 car keys now work.

In some 30 years of owning Foresters, I have never been put in the predicament of being without a vehicle. CAN ANYONE PLEASE ADVISE?

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both vehicles in same location when it happened ?
You have anything new/changed in the location likely interfere with transmitter frequency Perhaps another new vehicle key in you possession/added to keychain and interfering !
Odd both happened at same time, did you try manual pin code overide on either model ?
Be careful of charges on alarm diag/repair as lot be clueless on the system and it actually pretty cheap swap out alarm parts for used or bypass it all together .
What you do need realise on these is you got 2 immobiliser systems, one is transponder chip system that detects key when near ignition barrel by subaru and the second is the alarm system that you operate via the remote fob, this system is added for euro cars to meet EU security regulations and is not fitted at production line and this alarm system is manufactured by sigma .
 

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18 hours ago, Tony Hals said:

Can anyone please advise? in the space of a week, all the keys for my two Foresters have failed. An hour ago, I drove my 2004 Forester 100 metres to put the rubbish bags out. It unlocked, started and drove both directions. I parked and the key would not operate the locking system. Put the key in the ignition, turned key, all lights came on, but engine /starter motor did not react. Same thing happened with my 2007 Forester last week. It was due to go to a garage for some welding underneath -that's another horror story- With the 2007 Forester, I called out the RAC. The key problem was not solved, but with the ignition turned on, he connected the car battery to the starter motor and started the Forester so I was able to drive it to the Garage. It's still there, so I don't know if they have solved the keys problem. Yes, I have purchased a pack of 3v 1620 batteries as specified in the hand book, but none of the 4 car keys now work.

In some 30 years of owning Foresters, I have never been put in the predicament of being without a vehicle. CAN ANYONE PLEASE ADVISE?

Have they tried the remotes at the garage away from your home location? I was once in a location where I parked up but couldn't lock or unlock my car. I was working at a petrol station and the operator said other people had the same issue (and two people had to get their vehicles towed away). Working with the site we turned equipment off until we traced the fault to the car wash. This must have had a fault on either the wash controls or the radio system talking to the kiosk. Some kind of signal from it was blocking remote key systems for vehicles. Hope you get it sorted soon.

 

Andy

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Now a new problem. The welding  underneath is now completed, but the key will not start the Forester, although the ignition lights come on. Now, what I thought was a rear wheel bearing turns out to be  a noisy differential. Any ideas what a reconditioned one would cost?

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1 hour ago, Tony Hals said:

Now a new problem. The welding  underneath is now completed, but the key will not start the Forester, although the ignition lights come on. Now, what I thought was a rear wheel bearing turns out to be  a noisy differential. Any ideas what a reconditioned one would cost?

Don't waste time or money on a recon, pick up a used one, better for environment and your wallet .

Before you write off the diff you could drain fluid and inspect for excessive metal debris and if isn't any try a slightly thicker oil .
Sometimes the whirring sound in rear diff when driving through a bend can be the viscous diff unit and will actually still do fair few thousand miles service (I got a few thrifty farmers that done a decade driving on a noisy rear diff).

Is possible when they isolated elecs for welding it upset the alarm further as had issue prior to welding .

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