Jump to content

Idle Control Valve issue


EviWRX
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Had an issue with my IACV since I bought it in the summer (turns out the seller wasn't an honest one with a few things!), quite jumpy on start up and will stall out if it hasn't been driven for a little while. Took a visit to a specialist who said that the previous owner had fitted a cheap Chinese idle control valve and it's partially stuck open.

Had a look for genuine OEM ones, they seem quite pricey. Would a second hand one be an option, go for a brand new 'cheaper' one or just bite the bullet and spend for the OEM?

As always, any help/opinion is much appreciated!

Link to comment
Share on other sites


On 12/3/2022 at 8:56 AM, Linx said:

I'd go for a second hand one and just clean it up well. They don't often go wrong 

Cheers for the response mate, posted in a few Facebook groups so hopefully should have one shortly 🤞

Link to comment
Share on other sites

aftermarket cheap brands on critical electrical components are always best avoided .
If want no hassle new OEM always best way go and it buy once and job jobbed scenario .
Amount of cars we get see with ballache to track down faults that turn out be garbage parts that been fitted before in a part change tryagnosis effort is unreal .
You then got throw all the garbage quality in bin and hope they kept the original high quality parts as gets proper spendy if haven't lol .
If doing labour yourself you may get lucky with a used genuine IACV , most issues with these is down to dirt but not that uncommon to be worn/faulty functioning .
If paying labour many time better off new oem parts and job faultless first time . DIY then used can really pay off but do be prepared accept risk that some used parts going be bad but OEM used is way better than cheap aftermarket garbage, just be sure used parts you buy are OEM parts .
 

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 minutes ago, Mr B said:

aftermarket cheap brands on critical electrical components are always best avoided .
If want no hassle new OEM always best way go and it buy once and job jobbed scenario .
Amount of cars we get see with ballache to track down faults that turn out be garbage parts that been fitted before in a part change tryagnosis effort is unreal .
You then got throw all the garbage quality in bin and hope they kept the original high quality parts as gets proper spendy if haven't lol .
If doing labour yourself you may get lucky with a used genuine IACV , most issues with these is down to dirt but not that uncommon to be worn/faulty functioning .
If paying labour many time better off new oem parts and job faultless first time . DIY then used can really pay off but do be prepared accept risk that some used parts going be bad but OEM used is way better than cheap aftermarket garbage, just be sure used parts you buy are OEM parts .
 

I 100% agree with this, by cheap parts and it will coswt you in the long run.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

42 minutes ago, Tidgy said:

by cheap parts and it will cost you in the long run.

Amen to this ...
Classic example of this couple months back, guy had intermittent crank no start, asked our opinion, my hunch was possibly crank sensor bring it in for diagnosis .
He didn't do that, went for a £20 aftermarket sensor DIY and problem seemed cured, some time passes then he stranded with a crank no start & gets a tow to our shop .
The aftermarket sensor signal output was awful week lol .
towing cost him fair chunk and he got what he paid for with the £20 sensor lol (a functionality/reliability gamble lol) .
If he had bought OEM new for extra £50-60 he would of resolved original fault on a wise guess cheaply and smarty but no had go stupid cheap and then you or the next sucker got pay the real price at some point lol .

Cheap sensors never work out cheap in long run lol .
Very rare we ever use them, simply too unreliable be main part source and make your business look like a circus, few exceptions on old beater subarus when budget tight and vehicle life looking close to end but if you want no ballache top quality parts is a must and even bigger known aftermarket brands these days kick out some sloppy parts so you really need do homework on what brands are likely good quality/value .
One of biggest issues as an independent is garbage parts even from trade motor factors, we don't use likes of ECP for anything, couple good independent factors and specialists and started stocking lot of parts ourselves of quality we happy fit and back with warranty .
Import Car Parts is a good source of common parts OEM or fairly high quality aftermarket, educate yourself on parts prior to purchase to make wiser choices or you just pi55ing money down the drain and setting yourself up for a future ballache ...

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Managed to source a 2nd hand one, have just fitted it and the revs are no longer bouncing around. The issue I now have is this noise (video below). This is present after warming and after being on the throttle too.

If I refit the old (cheap and nasty one) then this noise isn't as loud or noticeable.

Any ideas?

 

Edit: Just swapped them round again and have the 2nd hand one currently fitted, let it warm for a little whilst still making the noise. Put my foot on the throttle and afterwards, was all fine. See 2nd video.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
 Share




×
×
  • Create New...




Forums


News


Membership