how much diff oil, being done today

[LANCENEOMAN]

So, i think theres a slight whine in my diff, although its probably normal. 

 

But for peace of mind, im having the diff oil changed,

I was going to go just for rear, I have heard it takes 1litre.

 

Is it easy to do the front? and how much does that take. A garage is doing near my work as i dont fancy getting under the car in the rain, as i also need a knocking when reversing from the front calliper  area which needs looking at .

 

any recommendation?

 

 

[Gambit]

Equipment Needed:

1/2" ratchet (breaker bar is probably better)
1 quart of rear diff fluid (75w90)
1 oil pan (at least 1 quart capacity)

 

Step 1: Make sure your car is on level ground, as to properly fill the differential case. There is enough room to get underneath the rear of the car without jacking it up. Put the car in gear, pull the handbrake up, place an oil pan under the diff, and you're ready. You can jack the car up while loosening and tightening the plugs, just make sure that when you fill and drain the diff case, that the car is leveled.

Step 2: As you can see in the picture, there are two plugs... the top one is the fill plug, and the bottom one is the drain plug. Both of these plugs are in there pretty tight, and removing them is definitely the hardest part of the job… don't be afraid to use force. First, you'll want to remove the “fill plug”, to relieve pressure in the tank. Place the ½” drive of the wrench into the square indentation on the plug, and twist it out.

 

Step 3: Once the “fill” plug is removed, remove the “drain” plug the same way, and let the fluid drain out. There isn't much pressure behind it, so it won't really “splash” out or anything like that. If you want, you can put an air compressor up to the “fill” hole and blast a lot of the gunk out of the bottom of the case, but keep in mind, this is EXTREMELY messy.

 

Step 4: Once both plugs are removed and the oil is drained/draining, clean the surface of the two plugs. The “drain” plug has a magnet to collect any metal particles, and keep the gears safe. Make sure to clean both plugs so they look at least as good as the ones in the picture. When cleaning the plugs, look for any metal shavings. Small shavings here and there are normal, but if you find any pieces more than a few mm across, it could be a sign that your differential is shot, and you should have it looked at. Also, make sure to clean the threads of each plug and plug hole to get rid of more grime and ensure that it seals the hole properly.

 

Step 5: Once the oil is finished draining and the plugs are cleaned, replace the drain plug, leaving the fill hole open. Take the differential fluid and pour (or squeeze) it into the fill hole until oil starts to leak out. The case only takes .8 quarts, so you should have some leftover fluid. To make things easier, you can buy a siphon hand pump, allowing you to pump the oil into the case, which is much easier than trying to squeeze it in, as space is quite limited.

 

Step 6: When the case is filled, put the fill plug back into the hole, make sure both the drain and fill plugs are tight, and you’re done. It is extremely important not to over torque these plugs! Best bet is to measure the force to break them loose with a torque wrench, and apply that same force to tighten them back up.

[LANCENEOMAN]

cheers as always gambit. 

 

I hope you didnt type all that out just now. Basically; I cant be bothered to lie under the car in the rain (its tipping it down now) so ive just dropped it off at the garage while im at work, as I need the brakes looking at , as that clunk is really grinding my gears :)

[Gambit]

Could be the suspension mate they are know to clunk a bit. And did you check to make sure there wasn't a jack flopping about in the boot ;) 

[LANCENEOMAN]

I havent mate, it only clunks when reversing, and when you press the brake it clunks worse. also, i think the caliper could be sticking slightly,

 

When you turn right hand down the clunkings worse, but when going forward, nothing, which to me make point to caliper, or pads etc.. 

 

And in this crappy weather id rather let someone else do the dirty work. :)

[Pommy]

Always make sure the filler plug comes off before draining anything. Read some good storied about people not being able to get the fill plug off after draining. And nearly done it myself, thankfully I stopped and checked.

 

The front brakes do clunk a little in reverse. Although the 4-pots are prone to sticking (both of mine went within a week of each other.) Have a look at them while still on car and check general condition. I could tell which pistons were stuck within seconds.

 

And understand what you mean about the rain, horrible to work in it.

[LANCENEOMAN]

yeah, and i dont have time because of work.i get back about 7pm and its dark so stuff it. Well its gone to a garage, so its been there 20-30 years so im sure he will do a good job. 

 

I dont think the clunk is a safety issue, just annoying.

 

Also when cold, and reversing it sqeaks like its slightly sticking. 

[bitman]

@Gambit; excellent write up!

 

the only thing i can add is that i do mine after driving a bit to warm up the oil for easier draining.

also have a look if the axle breather is still open / working if installed to save your axle seals ;)

 

and indeed ALWAYS do the fill plug first!

 

coming from the L200 / Hilux / Sorento camp have seen guys who did got the drain plug removed but cannot get the fill plug lose! better the other way around as in the worse case you can always suck the oil out via the filler plug