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bugeye will not start after upgrades HELP


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Hi we are new to the forum and are looking for a bit of help.

my bro (rob) has a 2001 bugeye 2.0t and we just made a few purchases and done a small rebuild.

new mods...

.New vf34 turbo from rodgerclark 

.up rated rodgerclark fuel pump

.sti top mount intercooler

.k&n typhoon air filter

.sti pink injectors

.sti manifold with tgv (tumblers) delete

.exedy organic clutch and sreet flywheel from rodgerclark.

.ngk iridium plugs

.samco intake hose.

.prosport boost gauge

.rodgerclarke uprated head studs and nuts with 0.78 thick head gaskets think this is correct thickness.

 

 

For the rebuild we took the engine out and took the heads of cleaned all surfaces installed studs and put heads back on and torqued to speck. got the cams in and all timed up then refitted engine once all in we installed the sti mani with pink injectors and went from there. got it all ready to fire up and turns over fine but will not start it sounds like its firing as it has a exhaust note similar to running note. we primed it a few times ignition on and of but nothing checked the coil pack and the coil pack leads that plug on and all ok. from looking at front of the car turbo to left the firing order is 1 3...2 4 higher numbers at back. still wont have it so plugged in code reader and gave a load of tgv (tumbler valve codes)  p1094 p1096 p1086 p1088 p1086 p1088.

checked it has fuel and spark and does but still nothing and we drained the Battery trying different things. we have just plugged the tgv switches into the loom and now is loose in the engine bay but still bringing up the codes.

we are not using the sti wiring loom that is usual attached to the mani we are using his old loom.

the idea was to get it running and drive off boost till we get a remap in a week.

 

so if anyone has and answers as to why it wont start it would be very appreciated.

we could do with the help cheers luke and rob 

pics to come when running  

 

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Hi mate welcome to the forum/ S.O.C 

 

Looking at the list you have put and mods you've listed I would say you know the good points to add to a Scoobie. I will gracefully like a ballerina with no rhythm. Not answer as I'm not sure and leave this to one of the members like Tlag or Savage that do builds to hopefully answer ;) HEEEEELP!!! :D

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@Gambit Thanks for the welcome 

yes my bro had a good idea on what he wanted from a subie and wanted a little more :rolleyes: .

me being the mechanic and enthusiast sort of got him into it and decided to do a sort of stage one upgrade just a shame we cant find out how to get it going :wacko: . i will be having another look at it tomoz   

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Keep us updated I will see I can redirect either of the two here see if they know. There is Martin who owns Sheffield Subaru Services on here too who's excellent with Subaru engines might be worth giving him a ring if he's not too busy I'm sure he will be happy to advise if he can. 

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Hi chap, first things to check will be the wiring. The fuel injectors obviously have electrical connectors going to them. The injectors nearest the front should have very pale grey plugs and the two at the rear should have darker grey plugs. If you reverse them, it will never start.

If you have coil packs, it's exactly the same too. Obviously if you have a single coil pack and ht leads, they must go to the right plugs.

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@Tlag cheers 

The car being version7 bugeye ej205 it has the individual coil pack that plugs on to each spark plug so no ht leads.

just checked the injector plugs and spot on lighter at front darker at back. 

the injector plugs can not be stretched to be put on wrong so must be right.

as we have upgraded from the wrx blue injectors to the sti 550cc pink ones will it start with them.

it does have 2 fault codes now and they are p1086 p1088 tgv valves (tumbler valves) we are using sti mani that has the delete kit.

i have plugged the valve and tgv kit into the loom and is loose in the engine bay but stiil has those codes.

will it start with these codes 

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That's a good question. I don't know. I'm used to Legacies that don't have the TGV kits anyway.

Another fairly common issue is the fuel lines. Have you put them on the right way round? Ones flows fuel from the filter to the fuel rails, one returns it to the tank. Is it possible, you have checked for fuel from the correct line but have the solid pipes confused?

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iv now got rid of the fault codes by resetting the tgv so now have no codes up.

but has not made a difference iv just checked the timing and left side cams line up and the right hand side cams line up.

i will now remove the pulley to check the crank mark is good.

i did look online at fuel line pics to check to make sure it was ok and there the same as the pictures iv been looking at.

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I would say check the cam pos and crank pos sensors, but they would throw codes.

If you take off a fuel line and put it into a jar, turn the key so you get the lights up on the dash. At that point, you should get a brief gush of fuel into the jar. If you then turn the key further as if to start the engine, do you still get fuel flowing into the jar continually?

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well i checked all the timing marks and the double lines do not line up 100% there a tad out so iv decided to remove and refit the belt again but this will be my 3rd time doing so and it looked the same as last time.

also when the belt was put back on before the engine was put back in i turned it over 4 time and they all came back to alignment.

when all back together i will try again then if nothing i will check the fuel when cranking. 

the fuel pump is a new Rodgerclark Motorsport up rated pump 

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If the pump primes as you said, then the pump is ok. It's just that, of certain sensors fail, the failed signal to the ecu will stop the engine from starting to protect itself.

When you look at the timing marks, it's quite normal for them to be 'not quite' lined up. I don't know why but sometimes, they just don't. I suppose, if the heads have been skimmed or a different thickness of head gasket is used, the gaps are different. I'm also guessing that the actual length of belt varies from manufacturer to manufacturer. I know gates belts seem to be tighter than other I have used.

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Sorry I don't know anything about the tgv set up as I've only owned classics .

The injector upgrade will mean that the fueling will need rescaling and therefore run rough , but I think it should still start .As I changed from 380cc to 550cc and it still started and idled (lumpy) but , drove off boost like a pig untill the mapper tweeked it .

I ran my rebuild in with the original injectors and fitted the bigger ones the day before the remap , do you know if the pinks are in good working order ?

If not maybe try re fitting the blues as the original map is set for those .

Tlags covered everything else that springs to mind , but if I think of something else I'll let you know .

Best of luck and keep us updated fella

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk

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Very nice glad to hear you sorted it. And massive thanks to Tlag and Savage for taking the time to reply :) 

So once it's been ran it and you get your first joy ride you going to share any video footage ;) 

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Yeah it fired up but had a bad missfire let it get warm and a couple revs cleared the miss fires.

it is getting mapped on the road by a guy called duncan and then up to rodger clarke for a map check on the dyno and a print out for proof of POWER.

vids will be posted but do i start a new thread and do a full post on our stages with pics.

and a massive thanks to @Tlag

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  • 1 month later...

Hi lads not sure if you will see this now as been a while since this post but will post a new thread now as just got back from pod on the weekend and not too happy with the time for the money spent so will be looking for more bhp. cheers luke and rob  

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