Judd

Yes the temp sensor could well be an issue. Regarding water pump flow rate, if you remove one of the heater pipes (obviously this weather the heater valve will be set to hot so allowing full flow) with the engine running the flow should be that of gentle garden hose, if you've removed and refitted the heater inlet pipe its then worth removing the return/outlet pipe , that should be flowing at the same rate and you'll have ruled out there being any trapped air in the heater radiator.

One other thought. Could the most recent coolant change have used incompatible coolants? I understand OAT and the old standard glycol can form some sludge instead of mixing, its the devils own job trying to extract all previous coolant from an engine. Wasn't thinking the water pump had failed completely but wondering if the impeller might be loose on its spindle so turning at a fraction of the rate it should, or worn?, loosening a heater pipe and seeing for yourself the type of flow rate there would iron that one out one way or the other, its also the method many of us used in times gone by when bleeding the cooling systems on our cars. I don't know what the water pump impeller is made of, hopefully being Japanese good solid metal but i have heard of plastic impellers on some european cars where some of the impeller has worn away over time with obviously reduced efficiency also the plastic ones maybe more inclined to loosen on its shaft. It sounds like the thermostat is doing its job, its typically when t'stat opens first time is when all of a sudden you can add a lot more coolant to the system, which is how it went this week after fitting a new water pump to my Prado, running for about 20 minutes on fast idle no movement when all of a sudden the tank is empty and could get a further 3 litres in. Just out of interest the heater in my previous H6 Outback was virtually useless and never did improve over the years, the Forester heater a vastly better one.

Have you removed a heater hose and viewed the flow with the engine running, suggest both inlet and oulet pipes. If good inlet and poor outlet could point to a heater matrix or valving issue, if there's little flow either in or out could the water pump impeller be spinning on its shaft? probably a daft suggestion but you did ask 😉 oh and one other daft suggestion, and i ask this because of the convoluted route the auxilliary belt takes on my Prado...if the water pump is auxilliary belt driven it is turning in the right direction?

Just had a look in the handbook for my Auto 2.5 XT, obviously it recommends Subarus own ATF, it also says Dexron 3 can be used temporarily but that odd gearchanges can result. 75/80 sounds like gear oil (for manual box and diffs) to me, all the ATF fluids i've used have been thin, not sure i've ever seen an ATF oil with a w rating as such. When i changed my gearbox fluid i used Dexron 6, which is synthetic and from everything i read about this subject is compatible with and can replace the older spec, the gearbox is silky smooth with instant non slurred changes, i also changed the spin on filter (yours may not have one), not a cheap filter it looks like a standard engine oil filter but works nothing like one, circa £25, but something you'll probably only do once in the life of the vehicle.

I'm a daft old blighter, those tyres are not 205/60 x 16 as noted in the sale post, they are in fact the correct size for the car which is 215/60 x 16. Losing the plot gets easier when you get older.

Must be losing the plot. They're not 205/60 x 16, they are of course the correct size, 215/60 x 16.

I've just listed the no longer needed winter wheel/tyre set from my Forester in the parts for sale section.

Have fitted a new set of all seasons to the summer wheels, so for sale are my winter wheels and tyres plus nuts/lockers. 205/60 x 16 99H Copper Weathermaster Snow. No punctures or damage or perishing. Wheels in very good undamaged condition Tyres all have 5+mm tread left. They are getting on however being week 40 2011 code dated, i bought the tyres new and they've seen every winter on the previous Outback and the current Forester SG9. Wheels are made by Enzo and 1 year older than the tyres, 6 1/2" J 16" ET48 PCD100 I live in Northamptonshire and am asking a very reasonable £150 for the lot. They will fit Foresters up to 2008 and Outbacks up a similar year and no doubt other Subarus depending obviously on which brakes are fitted. Collection is obviously best, i haven't a clue how much carriage might be. They'' fit h

Neither of those, but i've been runningYokohama GO15 AT on my Prado sized Landcruiser for the past 5 or 6 years. One of the best wet and poor weather tyres i've ever had, quiet comfortable and wearing well too, sensibly priced in the UK at least, they're snowflake and mountain symbol stamped so officially winter rated all season tyres (which may or may not be needed in Spain), quite a few members on our Landcruiser forum are using them and happy to buy again when the time comes, they're not rock hard sidewalled like some AT tyres designed for serious offroading.

The price sounds scandalous to me, compare with a bog standard 2.5XT which can be found here for circa £5/7k with similar mileage. No it won't have quite the same looks as the STi but the performance is more than adequate and it's just a standard UK car for insurance purposes (our premium approx £300 but i am an old geezer) with easily available parts*, the only downsides are the £700 VED stinger and the higher possibility of underbody rust (exacerbated if the vehicle has lived in Scotland), the difference in the initial price would take dozens of years to eat into the VED difference. Our 2008 XT isn't rusted, i've taken steps to keep it rust free but it won't be the only one. * exhausts are always an issue with rare models, OE are ridiculous costs, no correct aftermarket mild systems anywhere for the turbo versions (2" instead of the correct 2.5" bore) so stainless is a must when the time comes, this will be the same whether XTi or standard XT, our stainless cost £300 fitted 4 or 5 years ago.

Yes i might list them cheap, better than skipping them if it helps someone out for a year or three. I used the car at the weekend on various roads, country bumpy pot holed etc, ride quality itself is little changed but damping feels better controlled which has made the vehicle noticeably more stable on the twisties and over undulations, all in all very pleased. I see KYB also make shockers for my Landcruiser, thats on air at the back with electrically adjustable shockers all round, adjustable shocks are scandalous cost OE only @ some £600 each, no worries about springs because air sets its own ride height via sensors. KYB replacements will be going on that when the time comes.

Job done, everything fitted fine, car sits probably an inch or more higher at the back than it did before which is to be expected. New springs needed a lot more compressing than the standard OE set required during dismantling.

Surprising MOT failure, rear self leveller leaking which i hadn't noticed, bit disappointed in myself for missing that but the leak was hidden by the dust cover until jacked up, thats my miserable excuse and the only one i've got, cars only done just over 50k from new but age and the state of the roads have taken their toll, rust is not an issue the car itself is solid. The KYB shocks and stiffer springs as recommended by MrB are on their way, i've got the self levellers off and the springs and SLs seperated, top mounts are as new and the rubber bottom spring seats are fine too so can be re-used. Much obliged to MrB especially for his invaluable parts numbers and general info and his encouragement to others who have attempted the job, and for anyone thinking they might have a go and unsure about it, i'm getting rapidly close to 70 years so if i can do it you lot can. The NS self leveller is fine, no sign of any leaks so if someone has a weeping nearside SL and needs one to keep their car going for a few years more let me know, if its any use to you MrB i'll glady post it down to you.

Get it removed and programmed out of the ecu, no more issues.

Depending on model some Rav4 boots aren't that big, i would have a good look see if it would be big enough for your use before Older square Foresters and almost all Outbacks have useful estate car type boots, our SG9 is plenty big enougn for our 3. Avensis would be a better choice if you don't need 4WD, but avoid the 2.2 Diesel.