Juddian

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Juddian last won the day on June 28

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About Juddian

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  • Location:
    Northants
  • Subaru Model
    SG9 XT

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  1. Good news that, you have several months now to decide what next. If you're going to keep the car several years, it might be worth leaving the Nokians with their chunky tread for winter use and buy a cheaper set of tyres for the warmer weather, maybe find a cheap set of wheels for the winter season so your best wheels don't see salt? We tried a set of very well priced Japanese made Falkens (501 IIRC) on one of daughters two Civics, they are lasting well and she reports really good wet grip, she really puts her cars through the mill so if she says they are gripping well that's good enough for me. I have two sets of tyres on wheels for our SG9 XT, a set of Cooper Winters in 16" flavour, made in England which surprised me, and a set of 17" Fulda Sport Contacts thingies for summer, i can't knock the Fuldas for grip which is quite amazing in the wet but the downside is too much road noise and a crashing ride, they have plenty of meat left but seriously considering a set of those Falkens for quieter more comfortable summer use. Both sizes used are on the door label as suitable, and like yours for snow tyres as low as Q speed rating is allowed, like yours my winters are H rated, the Fuldas V or W, the 16" provide a much softer ride as a bonus, so good in fact i've considered ditching 17" altogether and going to 16" all year.
  2. Did you describe them as all season tyres, or winter tyres eg separate tyres designed purely for winter use, to be removed out of winter season? Because the only reason i can see for their objection is that these are all season tyres for all season use as against a pure winter only tyre, and as such would need to be of the higher speed rating for all year use. Its a bit of a grey area this, i'm sure i read there was some sort of agreement within members of the ABI, might be worth contacting both AXA again to speak to someone more senior and possibly get in touch with the ABI and see what they have to say.
  3. The only trouble with shipping is that you'll more than likely be stuck with a RHD car, which would make the driving over there less enjoyable and arguably sightly less safe, though you could get a very well priced post 2006 H6 which are cheap now due to £500+ VED over here, if you could find a LHD H6 it might be saleable over there after though that's probably an even larger can of worms. Would it be any easier/cheaper in vehicle costings to start your trip in the USA, buy and insure there? You could buy an older car in a dry state, oh and if fuel costs aren't too much of an issue, there's some supremely reliable Toyota 4x4's in the States, Sequoia, Landcruiser to name just two, many of which sit on at least rear air suspension and would prove roomy and easily saleable again after your mega trip, again especially dry state vehicles that won't have any chassis rot, a good LHD Toyota 4X4 might even be worth shipping it back for sale in europe (we won't be leaving the EU in yours or my lifetimes), but be aware large Toyota 4x4's get under your skin they are that good, i'm on my 4th and have no intention of not having one in my life. Just chucking some thoughts at you.
  4. Much as a like Foresters i'd be more inclined to buy an Outback with the 3.0 litre H6 engine. Either the model finishing in 2003 or the 2003 to 2009, both are very good cars indeed, quieter and more comfortable than a Forester for those long drives, that engine is very reliable benefiting from a timing chain instead of belt and suffers only rarely from head gasket issues, smooth auto box. One tip, look down with a torch both sides of the engine, you can see the inner drive shaft couplings, the rubber boots can perish because they sit directly over the CATS, very easy repair though, the whole drive shaft comes apart quite easily.
  5. I bought an 80w equivalent led bulb for the single reverse light on my previous Landcruiser, powerful as a decent spot light, probably not legal and i didn't submit the motor for MOT with it fitted, the red lenses for the rear fogs were prone to fading on that model, red led from the same seller sorted that too. Sadly i didn't keep the name of the seller and it's too long ago to be on ebay's history, not cheapies by any means, a UK seller. On my previous Hilux, again one measly reversing light and leds in their infancy, i had a sparky wire in two very small Ring spotlights fitted under the rear bumper wired in to the main reversing light feed but via a relay, had the more powerful led as fitted to the Cruiser been available i wouldn't have needed those extra lights.
  6. You learn summat every day, had Japanese cars for many years, mainly Landcruisers (i still have one. the Forester is really SWMBO baby) and in all that time i never knew that they had a specific screw head pattern.
  7. Thankyou chaps, i'll invest in a set of JIS screwdrivers, and keep them separate, only have the one old verging on classic Merc now so any tinkering i do from now on will be on Toyota or Subaru, or the odd whatever box the daughters buy into, one is into Honda in a big way, not sure what screws they use both cars made in Swindon. My only complaint about Subarus is just how awkward spark plug changes are, i still bear the scars on the back of my wrists from fitting a set to the H6 Outback some 5/6 years back.
  8. I wish it hadn't happened, my fault leaving that blinking gate where it was, it's hardly a surprise when a cocker and sprocker/retriever (appears to have been something else in our cocker's heritage, hence George's rather unusual make up) go bonkers when chasing anything that moves. Whatever the screws are, this is one aspect of Japanese cars (Subaru/Toyota) i really like, even after donkeys years seldom does a bolt or screw fail to undo, unlike other euro makes where you are lucky if anything underneath suspension wise especially comes apart without extensive use of an angle grinder or gas axe.
  9. lamp unit arrived quickly, well packaged and in good condition, all at a very fair price £23 plus free postage 😎, i transferred the small loom and light fittings and bulbs from my broken light onto the bought in lamp body cos mine is a low mileage motor that has seen almost no salt...thanks goodness Scoobys are old school made ie philips screws to hold the loom on, doing things like this isn't always possible on euroboxes. not sure how much they are involved with Subarus, they seem to be a general scrappy, but you could do worse than look up ''daautopartsdirect'' (Dumfries based i believe) on the bay of E if you need used parts if my experience is anything to go by.
  10. Found one on the bay, have bought it, hope its a good un when it arrives. Thankyou for looking peoples.
  11. Thanks The Hoff, very good of you anyway. edit, thought i posted this thankyou reply yesterday, either i'm losing the plot (most likely) or it vanished, here's hoping.
  12. Sadly not, mine is the last year of SG9 production, but thanks for looking. Fortunately the clear cover is punctured with a 50p sized hole which clear tape has waterproofed, so it's not desperately urgent to replace, just looks bad...could have been a lot worse, luckily the tailgate was open when the tubular steel gate fell on the car (one of the dogs trying to get at birds in the hedge must have shifted it) otherwise the tailgate rear window might have been smashed as well plus the tailgate would have needed painting, so i'm grateful it was only the light unit. Any idea what a new one from Subaru would cost, just out of interest.
  13. What a bind, managed to break the clear plastic lens on the OSR light cluster, SG9 2008. Anyone breaking one of these, or any suggestion where to find a new lamp unit at an affordable price, dare say i'll need to be sitting down at the dealer parts desk if i have to go there.
  14. Agree with Vred Sportracs, an excellent tyre. We have two sets for the XT, Fulda Sport Control thingies in 17" flavour, these really are very good tyres in both wet and dry, stick like the proverbial to a blanket, But, a hard noisy ride is the price paid and when they are worn out i shall find something else, possibly Falkens which are doing very well on daughter's Civic which she thrashes to hell, but you won't find much better in the wet than Uniroyal Rainsports, though to be fair i've never tried them on a Scoob myself and they wear quickly but are usually cheap to buy from Camskill or similar. The winter set, 16", are Cooper Weathermaster and once during last winter the car felt extremely skittish on one particular roundabout, but that never repeated itself elsewhere and i think it was either excess salt dropped there attracting the damp, or possibly a previous fuel spillage, the ride on these tyres is much softer and forgiving and i could well be tempted to move away from the 17" and go for 16" all year round....those 215/55 x 17 sizes are particularly expensive too, much more palatable in 215/60 x 16. As for general skittishness, i agree with above this must be the tyres unless there is a serious fault with the car, the previous Outback and the current XT have been the most stable in all weather cars i've ever driven, just point in the direction you want to go and the cars just sort it all out for you.
  15. Corrosion wise, the Forester has had an easy life corrosion not an issue, though i have extensively rustproofed it anyway with Bilt Hamber's finest. The Outback was obviously a much older and cheaper car, but apart from exhaust the only real rust was on the rear subframe, again i de-rusted that and rustproofed it and it never was an issue again, but i hasted to add neither car had lived in Scotland. The biggest issue with all Japanese cars is how susceptible to salt corrosion the brake calipers are, so bank on fully stripping cleaning and lubing those on any car you get, standard Brembo discs and pads are reasonably priced at ECP, especially when they have a sale on online, and they have improved the braking on every vehicle i have fitted them to. One thing i forgot to mention about 3 litre Outbacks, or at least the up to 03 models, the cats sit just below the inner drive shaft couplings and the heat from them will cause early failure of the rubber boots, fortunately these cars were made to be worked on in such areas and the drive shafts fully dismantle quite easily so new boots and regrease is an easy sat morn job. If you take a torch and peer down from above at the rear of the engine both sides you should be able to see the inner boots when checking a vehicle over. Hope you find yourself a good one, as you mention prices are all over the shop.