Bouncer

Yep, if I do it and go with him, I'll need to be adamant that there's no more.....the thing is if he still tries it on, what do I do, he'll have the car and in bits

I know it's cheap, very, he said the others were about 12 + and he's right, this is the heads skimmed too as he uses a local well know place, I'm tempted to use him but don't want any "oh I've hit a few snaggs, I need more money, it's going to be around the ££££££££ mark sorry" then I'm in the ****

Thanks for the links Jay, I don't have a grand spare though, but that's a good offer if I did, like I say though, I think the only things i can do is either get fixed for 600 or another engine. Thing is though, getting another one, I won't know what it's like till I turn the key and do a few 100 miles. I know you mention gasket kits, i'd get the one about 170 from import parts, that's what would bump the price up taking mine out and rebuilding it. I really don't know what best thing is to do. Savage....it's a pity you're where you are, because if I did go down the other engine route, I could maybe have got your help (i'd have paid you for your time and tools ect). Like I say above though, I'll really need to decide what I'm going to cause just now my head's right up my !Removed!

It wouldn't any cheaper swapping Gambit, the cheapest turbo engine I've saw so far is about 450-5 then hiring the hoist, and i'd need some decent tools....so tallying all that i'd be just the same as the guy doing it for 600

I DON'T BELIEVE IT.....OH FOR GOD'S SAKE :)

Sorry to bring this up again but I'm stumped at some of the prices I've been getting.....the cheapest is someone in north Glasgow at 600 and said it'd take him 2-3 days max. I got 2 other quotes, one's 1300 the other's 1600 and take them a week easy ...why would the first be so cheap and seemingly be able to do it half the time, he did say though that I'd be lucky to get for under 12....but like I say, why is he so cheap. I'm thinking about doing it myself but I'd need to buy a decent socket and other things I don't have but wouldn't know till I started....I'd be **** scared though, plus it'd take me a week or over. Or I could get the engine taken out the non turbo and put it in the wrx, i'd then have probably the only wrx shelled non turbo in the country :)

Yes quite sure they're the same, I wouldn't though as clears look ****, to chavy that's m/o though, I've got them on the wagon and if keeping it they're coming off

Oops...think I'd better go back to a Volvo estate :) ......a big nice comfy T5 auto like I had

Miggs, that clutch, I'm no use at pricing things like that, is it the full kit inc bearing

I'd thought about doing that ie taking them from the 98 and puting them in the wrx, but I'm not good with wiring, certainly not as complex as that, plus I was looking at someone's posts in the States that changed their dash like that, my god :o . I've changed one before on a older Saab 9000 a few years ago, but that was because it a horrible grey I didnt like and put a black one in, that was bad enough, but having to change mounts ect....that's scary

Oh sorry, I thought you meant it was for the turbo What I'll do then, this is the car that's got the bad holes inside the back arches up near the struts (both sides) and needs a crossmember (and whatever else). I'm going to put it through an mot and see what he says and take it from that, if it needs more than I know of that's going cost alot more money, I think that'll be it, unless it's bulbs, wipers ect then I think I'll need to call it a day. I'll be in touch though, thanks

Sorry Miggs, it's the non turbo car I was talking about

Sorry I didn't know, I guess I should use the search button too at times I think the UK get everyone else's leftovers and scrap, I've heard this a few times.....why is that

What I mean is, the quality of metals and plastics ect, I just wondered, because when I close the doors (front or back, doesn't matter which) on the wrx (classic) there's a kinda "thub" solidness type sound that I don't hear or get on the UK Sport. So was thinking that a Jap import's built better for Japan than a UK car that's made for here Am I talking bollox

Just thought i'd say.....when out tonight, I noticed that the brightness of the speedo's to bright compared to the rest of them, so there must be something wrong with it.....don't know how to dull it down to the same as the rest though

Yea I kinda thought that, if that's what it is, it's done well to take 12 years of abuse as the 2nd owner's had It the longest...thanks Miggs, will do, do you mean you might sell the clutch Yea will get some and try it, it can only help, like you've all did though, probably the synchros No Jay I didn't change it, I just checked it, but it's obviously been done by the guy I got it from, but as said, I'll get the Forte stuff and see how it is. Mind you, this is the car I got cheap, very cheap, with the holes under the back arches, and holed subframe/crossmember thingy, if I do try and fix it up, I'll be keeping and using it

I guess that's the diplomatic way of saying it

On a 98 2.0 sport, it's got 89000, not hellish much on receipts on the servicing side, but fully original in every way....the pedal's quite high (clutch has probably saw better days and due for a new one soon). But 1st (especially 1st) it's usually a ****** to get in, 4th and 5th aren't to bad but 1st to 4th are bad, I checked the oil earlier and its fine (still a golden colour) and just below full. My guess is it might be a syncro problem and that's a box out job

That's what mine's like on the wrx but I'll have to either get a sports cat, original full system or change the mot place (which I've used for the last 14ish years)

You're probably right ie connection problem, I'll have another look at it in the next day our 2.....I'll try changing the bulbs from underneath like you say

It's only had 3, the guy I got it from lives in East Kilbride (no water near) and probably had since March or April last year, then the guy in/near Drymen (again, no water but the one that let it happen) but don't know who bought it new. But I'm sure it's the 2nd guy that had it for 12yrs that's not bothered his !Removed!, fkn idiot!

I know, obviously the current mot's a hooky, and maybe the last 2-3 too, as that kind of hole/rust/rot doesnt happen in a few months, it would take a a year or 2. I used Google st maps to find their address and it's very residential, the only gravel they would be on, is going in their drive lol, unless as you say, a workhorse or their worked at/near a farm or dirty/gravely rds. I honestly just dont know how anyone can let a car's underneath get like that, it's a fkn disgrace imo!....but i suppose there's alot of folk that wash and hoover outside and in, but never think of underneath...they're obviously like that. I pity the next poor ****** that buys the car they'll have now whenever they sell. The next car I get (if there is one) not only will check FULLY under it everywhere where I can, I'll also take a sniff tester and check the coolant for the h/g, but there's still probably something I'll get stung with, but it hopefully wont be bad bodywork or h/g's

I've got 8 originals and they're fine, the ones with the turquoise rubber covers and light up green , it was after putting 6 in (3 each for speedo and rev) the speedo was brighter, so sapped them, speedo's still brighter. It's either a connection fault or something blocking it

Honestly, I don't know where the first owner stayed from new in 98-03, but the second stays/ed in north Glasgow in Drymen/Milngavie and had from 03 to April last year, then the guy I got it from. But it's obviously been a combination of the first 2, or difinately the 2nd. They either might have lived on a farm and its just been a workhorse (as it's totally original), I can't see a non turbo being used for home rallying, then again, I'll never know. All I know it's a c**t of a hole, neither me nor the mechanics has saw anything as bad, especially there

Well apart from rain and the previous arseholes not washing and taking care of it I know it's a **** photo but can't get the phone back far enough because of the strut, this is most of the hole under the back o/s arch up very near the top of strut. If you put your hand up, there's a kind of lip inside the arch, it's just above that, it's about 8-9" long and 2-3" high but in a kind of wedge shape. The other side's more or less the same, well it would be if you pressed it. I know it's structural but not sure how much....definate mot fail for sure though Here's a photo, you'll hopefully kind of see what I mean