Mr B
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Posts posted by Mr B
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I've been getting quite a few of these for plugs due to poor support & silly quotes from dealers.
Easy enough test the plugs with multimeter & removal not long job unless do snap :-/
I'm soaking the plugs with release agent & leaving cars overnight & tackling removal following day to reduce risk of snapping plug or threads being ripped up on removal. Refit with light smear of anti-seize paste on threads & shaft, I'm using a ceramic & synthetic grease based high temp rated anti-seize.
had a few rip some thread but not enough to be an issue.
We been using Ashika branded plugs as original oem ones don't seem great . Glowplugs are around £22 each & as long as don't snap it not over expensive job. Just being careful with removal is critical & not snapped one yet & not had any come back for replacement as of yet but probably will in time unless Ashika far more robust than the oem, time will tell !
Not really sure why they failing, could be the oem plugs, could be too much heat soak or could be ecu related & they being used to much.
We been having short lifespan on diesels & switched to Ashika after some brand testing.
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What alarm system ? Sigma !?
If still not working after Battery change you could try reprogramming & if that fails then will need pick up another fob.
If its Sigma m30 link below on reprogramming, if you don't know then manual pin code set that first while you have one working remote.
http://uk.subaruownersclub.com/forums/topic/306-remote-needed/page-3
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they are good but I still like a manual too ... best bet is test drive a couple.
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38 would bring wheels out 10mm, main issue on forrester is drastic changes either way can cause fowling.
I would suspect a 38 on 205 width to be ok though.
Moving the wheel out 5 to 10mm is not drastic & if anything could improve handling as increasing track.. Moving wheel in is not good idea as they already run very close to strut plus reducing track would be a negative handling change, although 5mm is not drastic problem. Seen 53 offsets rims from legacy on SF & was ok but they did use spacers eventually.
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Standard offset on yours was 48 (i think!) so a 53 will move the tire closer to strut.
Would be best moving away from strut with lets say a 43 offset so then tyre would move away from strut by 5mm.
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The bolt just replaces the upper bolt in the hub to strut mount, as you turn the bolt it can increase or decrease camber due to the cam on bolt shank.
bushing will do same via centre hole off-centre so as rotate bush the suspension arm moves in or out (more of pain to adjust though) but I think for you the bolts are perfect solution & is the way Subaru done it on front & back for years.
I have whiteline ones but will be stocking powerflex 12 & 14mm for a trial, from images & spec sheet they should be as good.
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Can't see any issue with that as 6.5" rim still good for 205 & even 215 tyre width.
Best inform insurance though on any wheel or tyre size from standard.
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Could be slight suspension component worn/bent.
You do have a certain amount of change simply by the slop of fittings such as strut tophat & standard bolts in the strut to hub bracket wich can vary the camber somewhat .
Would assume if big difference the shop would be suspicious to possible underlying problem & mentioned it.
Quite surprised that an alignment shop didn't have a few camber bolts though as the 14mm ones are common for quite a few cars & stocking 12mm & 14mm would be super useful to the shop & customers.
Eibach camber bolts are pretty good too & I would use them but out of choice I would say whiteline are better. not expensive but stay away from cheaper unknown brands ...
Edit:
Just had a look at Powerflex camber bolts & they same design with washer tab as eibach & whiteline so probably just as good & easily available in UK.
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i would say the whiteline 14mm camber bolts would be perfect choice.
They are a quality product & easily obtained, eibach ones also are quite good.
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Lol the original idea of leasing roads & giving them infrastructure & congestion improvement targets with rewards from the vehicle excise duty is blatant stupidity. Simply tighten your belts & use the f00king excise duty directly on quality road infrastructure & repair & have a proper team review costs & quality of al contractors involved.
Trouble these days is everyone wants outsource everything in a bid to avoid the real headache of knuckling down & doing some real graft :-/ & being accountable for it.
With amount of cheap east european labour we got in the uk they have no excuse for current mess besides poor policy, poor local councils & leaders who are full of bloat & fancy phrases but would struggle to organise a paper round successfully :-/
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Yes they not bad but do bed into the hose a lot & when old they don't always give even clamping the circumference of the pipe.
any decent quality full band pipe clamp could be used if needed, just got be careful not over tighten them really.
Sounds like job jobbed though :-)
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I would get a decent new clamp on that & clean inside hose & very very lightly grease smear it prior to fitting as helps pipe bed nicely without over-tightening clamp.
twin wire clamps like in your pic can be troublesome.
Is possible pipe gone hard & too scabby inside for good seal in which case a new hose is good idea.
You can smear just a smidge of sealant on in it instead of grease which should stop it leaking & give you time source decent hose at nice price.
Worth checking rad pipe not split as it does happen at times,
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Worth looking at pitch stop then like stanton suggested.
Also look at driveshaft joints & check play and feel from shafts through the diff.
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Sounds to me me like internal wear in box
You want check this by turning prop by hand back & forth & you will feel & here where the excessive play.lash is.
Is possible changing oil to quality heavier oil such as 75-120 may help, some custom mix of 2 viscosity oils can also work to some extent to hide the problem & sometimes can do so for very long time.
If play/lash very severe then rebuld is likely needed. 120K is low for these sort of issues though but bad gear oil & driver who harsh with clutch & heavy towing can soon cause a lot of lash in a transmission.
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i can defo see the 4 pots on the front there is no question there. the exhaust i can see a cat on the down pipe but thats it to the back box, i was told that there may be another one on the up pipe? will need to get under the car to have a look. ill pull the ecu out tomorrow and check that out too!
So with regard to injectors what should i be looking for? i have looked on ebay but there are so many and i havent a scooby what im looking at. would it also be a good idea to change the fuel rail at the same time to a high flow?
Also on the note of ebay... turbos, i found the one on the link below and many like it. Are they safe tou use?
Chinese copy ****.
You would be better with a asthmatic monkey blowing in your intake pipe over that.
If you got a td04 & it in good order stick with it as matches to the the uk s turbo engine well .
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Yes the all windows open didn't sound right but I went on my perceived judgement of character of mr majik_thighs which LED me to be fooled & need rethink my judgement of character via forums :-S what a total ilk :-@ you are marked man mr majik_thighs.
I am going service all outbacks with used cooking oil from my local takeaway until the new year as your punishment :-)
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Off top of my head I think standard boost on uk s turbo was 0.50 or 0.55bar
I would expect it at 1bar be about 230hp but all depends exactly how cheap it been done & what other support mods added.
I would look at some of those items to see exactly what you got, have a look a ecu too as if prodrive it will be labelled. Wouldn't be surprised it simply a 1bar mod with no real supporting ecu work. You need do some investigating to see exactly how well you done or been done.
If any work looks dodgy you would be wise give it a run on a 4 wheel dyno to check fueling ignition etc as if these not close to perfect it will soon be fubar.
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As gambit has suggested ICP could be very helpful in supplying quality part at fair price.
Pattern parts are available so a decent above average autofactors should also be able help you out.
Decent pattern ones are about £40.
Fitted on huge range of Subarus so easy pull a couple from a friendly breakers yard for like £10 if want a cheap test option.
Even the earlier R00 versions work, about 4 different subaru PN# on that type & I think they all interchangeable as mainly version changes to design/manufacturer rather than compatibility.
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Is this UK model or JDM import.
The UK model was about 170hp the JDM was around 240hp as the engine was almost the same spec as a WRX.
TD04 was not standard on either.
300hp on the JDM is quite easy, on the uk version not worth the cost really in my opinion but with a remapable ecu the uk could probably run around 1.2 - 1.3 bar without silly money being spent & have respectable output. Would need be very healthy engine.
You best having look at turbo & ecu etc just to confirm what you currently got & get idea what may of been fiddled about with.
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combination of heat & vibration, Normally fail near clip for plug but saying that the OEM ones do last for over 10 years as a rule. have had original on old legacy of mine that done 14 years & 160+K mls on original leads.
Most of the problem is sloppy independents with component plan servicing who throw your nice OEM ones away for worst crap at the motorfactors then regular faults start building up ...
Get at least 2 subarus a month with intermittent misfire sometimes with flashing CEL or a spot of very intermittent hesitation & most times it a bad lead.
Done one last month & it had been to Main Dealer for same fault, they had replaced O2 sensor & with diagnostics & labour the bill was £300, problem seemed solved but within 3 days the same fault happened again, owner struggled with dealer mainly as fault didn't happen when went back for them to test drive.
Ended up at my garage as owner lost faith in dealer along with too much cash & wasted time, we sorted it for £45 all in .
Don't always work out as easy at that but nice when does ...
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Indeed, leads are very likely at fault.
Couple of lead options below if needed.
Prospark being cheap option but they not bad, used them on 2 of my own Foresters & run of the mill Subarus for customers & they have proved durable & almost faultless.
Better quality option from UK manufacturer, about £50 inc P&P
http://www.performanceleads.co.uk/ShowDetails.asp?id=901&code=FLA276
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Coilovers or not?
in General Subaru Chat
Posted
On B roads you can't beat oem inverted struts really unless spend about 2k
Bilstien do some good struts.
BC are not the worst coilovers for the money but on B roads it a downgrade on handling grip & you soon be needing them rebuilt.
All the cheap coilovers like BC miester R etc are virtually same taiwan !Removed! with no real testing & development on specific models.