Mr B

Range limitation is a Cat 1 restriction, reduces chance of you accidentally disarming car sat on your drive while playing with remote when sat in the lounge watching tv & so forth ...

Some dealers do it free some don't :-S Other issue is if been changed then dealers code is no good. Nice have code & be up to speed on alarm prior to having problem :-)

It's an extra so not covered in handbook, if fitted when bought new you get an additional booklet & 2 small credit size info cards on basic instructions & can keep one in sun visor. We have instructions on alarm on this site (will link you to it in a minute) Your alarm will have a keypad for manual 4digit pin code so hopefully you know about this & have the pin, although if not you can reset pin to one of your choice while have a working remote & would best be done as PITA if remotes bad/lost & you got no manual pin number :-S LINK > thanks to the one & only Mr Gambit ... http://uk.subaruownersclub.com/forums/topic/7981-any-infomation-on-sigma-m30/#entry47234 Below is link to Sigma M30 instructions/details I have > https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7Ub2apq5-pfcjJhSm5XUHNyUzQ

You do not need lock & unlock the car, if go to start & immobilizer is on thus won't crank, leave key in IGN position & just press alarm button & immobilizer will be turned off then turn key one notch to crank-start car. Issue is requirement of CAT1 alarm regs, if still don't like it you best getting immobiliser wiring removed on alarm & just run the alarm without & immobiliser will be standard subaru transponder key.

Mmm hard be too helpful without hands-on really. worth checking fuel pressure & fuel regulator. Some of those upgrade pumps are junk, even genuine walbro are problematic once few years old plus poor fitting in tank can cause issues. needs looking into as if over fueling it costing you & will damage engine in time too.

Good idea. KYB excel G struts can be had at little under £60 a strut, Monroe & Sachs also do struts. The struts are basically replacements for non sls so you are converting to non sls & must change springs to non sls too. Couple of threads for SF & SG forester on rear suspension & linked to SG already. Labour on that would be 1hr to 1hr 30min really as quite simple job for a garage & even an easy DIY job for those who get hands on with their cars & have half decent tools.

knock sensor perhaps, quite common on older subarus so worth looking at. Could even be likes of a leaking injector causing over fuelling & that more prominent at idle/low revs. Check throttle possition switch too . is maf clean ? is wiring harnesses/plugs in good order & earthing points good ?

Normal on these to generally have no CEL when disconnected. ECU sees a input value around normal stoich with sensor disconnected & cel rarely would come on. You can run sensor tests on car with appropriate kit or do some tests off car with multimeter & gas torch. Due to potential age of sensor & your issue you may be best getting a quality new one as could be the fix & also not too expensive as a testing step to your issue. Do check condition of wiring & plug though & don't buy dirt cheap fleebay sensors as they useless generally. Other things to check is knock sensor, ignition leads, plugs, crank, cam sensors, air leaks etc

Yes MOT here is a bit slack on struts & springs, visual issues such as this should be failed really & 12 year old cars should have more inspection on this unless documented or visually new units fitted. I think your Fozzy deserves new struts & springs, looks tidy & it got plenty of life left yet ...

Failed SLS struts. Have a read of thread below for guideline on what involved. http://uk.subaruownersclub.com/forums/topic/7216-2005-forester-xt-rear-sls-unit-leaking/ Not that expensive even if need a garage to fit. Parts around £280ish tops with springcoil springs & can be under £200 if pick up excel G shocks with K-flex spings off eBay at close to half of RRP & cheaper than most autofactors. Can be left but best done really if intending keep vehicle for some time, won't drop any more as about 50mm is max travel of the levelling function in the strut ...

http://uk.subaruownersclub.com/forums/topic/2366-manually-reading-ecu-codes/ Options for OBD1 software is bit expensive for home use in general.

One like in link below not bad > http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hydraulic-Trolley-Jack-2-1-4-Ton/121388837832?_trksid=p2045573.c100033.m2042&_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D23983%26meid%3D5da9418618694066b04263eb22b582be%26pid%3D100033%26prg%3D9421%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D121388837832#shpCntId Heres same jack at better price > http://dlgtools.co.uk/trolley-jack---225-ton Wider wheel base & bigger jacking pad make them safer in use, would be suitable for most jacking needs & can split handle half length when working in tight spots etc. Also worth having length of insulation style padding that can be slid up-down the handle so if jack under car long way & handle can contact bumpers/panels you can position foam to protect the paint. Do this on all our jacks as easy to loose grip on handle & if flips up nasty damage could happen. You can use bit of old ply-board to help save drive blocks getting marked. Quality is always bit of gamble as indeed change manufacturers at times & many common brands will be same units with different stickers/colours & prices ! Worth looking in local motor factors as they often have lower cost trade quality ones between £80-£120.

Do have to be careful with going on post counts though as could have a negative effect of creating a lot of pointless threads & posts just to reach requirement for selling. I think ideally a basic members fee of £4.95 plus at least 10 quality posts could be way to go, basic fee of £4.95 purely for online perks but perhaps stickers option at extra fee when signing up ! Think that would be good for club, members & just about everyone really !

Certainly needs post limited for selling as that way get some idea on quality of people you dealing with, thus making it safer & less problematic over current setup, is a bit open to abuse as is .... Expect making it paid members would reduce the sales too much so we all miss out. Could perhaps have a cheaper basic members package allowing full forum access/use but not full perks of current premium paid membership !

Never used the Wifi OBD2 dongles but expect can find them on eBay & reviewing feedback may help. Another good option if have notebook is the FreeSSM software & a VAG USB-OBD2 cable. I'm still using WindowsMobile6.5.5 & have ScanMaster PPC & a BlueTooth OBD2 dongle off eBay which keep in glovebox as handy have basic access 24/7 anywhere, most of the ELM327 adaptors should be fine even wifi ones so doubt you will go wrong really ...

As above plus far better engineered car too, whether XV or Forester.

face to butt is ugly, not keen on interior myself but suppose tastes vary. Had a good look at an XV today, in white & looked better than expected for white, interior works for me as does potential practicality. See how the new breed does on a few years usage with reliability/dealer fettling & I will buy one.

tribeca is a styling disaster :-S kind of glad not to see too many :-) XV is great styling & practical vehicle all in one, shame don't see a few more but then if was as common as a focus the magic becomes lost :-) Will be buying one of these in the future for sure.

Worth effort finding decent independent, might as well start now with basic servicing then you will have some gained knowledge for futures jobs if get any.

I do cambelt, all pulleys/tensioner (OEM sourced), jap sourced water pump, crank seal for £525. We only use ADL kits with OEM bearings or Dayco belts with OEM bearings, water pumps are japanese Asin or equal quality Jap brand not cheaper European sourced. You will get prices from range of £380 to your dealer quote :-S hard compare the lower quotes without knowing quality of parts used & quality/care of work. Always worth asking what parts they use to help judge pricing & also fussiness of garage. Cambelt on the boxer is pleasant job compared to say a Pug 206hdi so any talk of complexity by garage is ploy for more cash or sign of minimal experience Subaru prices are just ridiculous in terms of part prices & labour, would sell a lot more parts & maintain a busy workshop if they improved their pricing.

just scratch or punch a mark on them at 12oclock position or easy reference position, get a few in where they been overlooked & tyres get ruined.

What about brakes ! discs & pads are not that expensive & expect whole front & rear can be had for £130. front calipers recon are not super cheap, rebuilding is not that expensive if they decent enough ... Doubt you will have any issue doing struts as very easy, just mark base position of camber bolts so when reassemble your camber will be close & only need minor tweaking.

So Y section damaged too ? strut top mounts are around £50 a corner: struts, springs, boots/bumps & tophats is around £600+ price figure Parts for all these mentioned jobs would be heading to £1,000

How reliable is this garage ! Has the car had a recent MOT as would expect some of this to of been an issue or advisory !? Can't see it needing a complete exhaust, perhaps cat back which basically centre & rear box ! Exhaust is not that hard to do & can be done on stands or ramps. Shocks/struts are easy & have a read of thread below for some basic pointers on a smooth install http://uk.subaruownersclub.com/forums/topic/7216-2005-forester-xt-rear-sls-unit-leaking/ Are the struts noticeably leaking ? if are then going need whole set & that £300 for kyb & ideally want new springs shock boots & maybe tophats (fronts more so than rear) Drop links are super easy & sump oil leak needs reviewing (if you not topping oil up or just a little it not big issue, could be front crank seal then bigger issue ! Think you need give these reported faults a good inspection & perhaps even take some photos so we can see the current condition. Even doing this yourself will not be super cheap as calipers, discs, pads, drop links, struts will be a chunky parts bill ...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/m.html?_odkw=&item=300739291877&pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&_osacat=0&hash=item4605756ae5&_ssn=mjd128&_trksid=p2046732.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xforester+97+kyb&_nkw=forester+97+kyb&_sacat=0&_from=R40 Not cheapest but gets you started with some ball-park figures, best prices will be a friendly autofactors on these I expect.