Mr B

38 would bring wheels out 10mm, main issue on forrester is drastic changes either way can cause fowling. I would suspect a 38 on 205 width to be ok though. Moving the wheel out 5 to 10mm is not drastic & if anything could improve handling as increasing track.. Moving wheel in is not good idea as they already run very close to strut plus reducing track would be a negative handling change, although 5mm is not drastic problem. Seen 53 offsets rims from legacy on SF & was ok but they did use spacers eventually.

Standard offset on yours was 48 (i think!) so a 53 will move the tire closer to strut. Would be best moving away from strut with lets say a 43 offset so then tyre would move away from strut by 5mm.

The bolt just replaces the upper bolt in the hub to strut mount, as you turn the bolt it can increase or decrease camber due to the cam on bolt shank. bushing will do same via centre hole off-centre so as rotate bush the suspension arm moves in or out (more of pain to adjust though) but I think for you the bolts are perfect solution & is the way Subaru done it on front & back for years. I have whiteline ones but will be stocking powerflex 12 & 14mm for a trial, from images & spec sheet they should be as good.

Can't see any issue with that as 6.5" rim still good for 205 & even 215 tyre width. Best inform insurance though on any wheel or tyre size from standard.

Could be slight suspension component worn/bent. You do have a certain amount of change simply by the slop of fittings such as strut tophat & standard bolts in the strut to hub bracket wich can vary the camber somewhat . Would assume if big difference the shop would be suspicious to possible underlying problem & mentioned it. Quite surprised that an alignment shop didn't have a few camber bolts though as the 14mm ones are common for quite a few cars & stocking 12mm & 14mm would be super useful to the shop & customers. Eibach camber bolts are pretty good too & I would use them but out of choice I would say whiteline are better. not expensive but stay away from cheaper unknown brands ... Edit: Just had a look at Powerflex camber bolts & they same design with washer tab as eibach & whiteline so probably just as good & easily available in UK.

i would say the whiteline 14mm camber bolts would be perfect choice. They are a quality product & easily obtained, eibach ones also are quite good.

Lol the original idea of leasing roads & giving them infrastructure & congestion improvement targets with rewards from the vehicle excise duty is blatant stupidity. Simply tighten your belts & use the f00king excise duty directly on quality road infrastructure & repair & have a proper team review costs & quality of al contractors involved. Trouble these days is everyone wants outsource everything in a bid to avoid the real headache of knuckling down & doing some real graft :-/ & being accountable for it. With amount of cheap east european labour we got in the uk they have no excuse for current mess besides poor policy, poor local councils & leaders who are full of bloat & fancy phrases but would struggle to organise a paper round successfully :-/

Yes they not bad but do bed into the hose a lot & when old they don't always give even clamping the circumference of the pipe. any decent quality full band pipe clamp could be used if needed, just got be careful not over tighten them really. Sounds like job jobbed though :-)

I would get a decent new clamp on that & clean inside hose & very very lightly grease smear it prior to fitting as helps pipe bed nicely without over-tightening clamp. twin wire clamps like in your pic can be troublesome. Is possible pipe gone hard & too scabby inside for good seal in which case a new hose is good idea. You can smear just a smidge of sealant on in it instead of grease which should stop it leaking & give you time source decent hose at nice price. Worth checking rad pipe not split as it does happen at times,

Worth looking at pitch stop then like stanton suggested. Also look at driveshaft joints & check play and feel from shafts through the diff.

^

Sounds to me me like internal wear in box You want check this by turning prop by hand back & forth & you will feel & here where the excessive play.lash is. Is possible changing oil to quality heavier oil such as 75-120 may help, some custom mix of 2 viscosity oils can also work to some extent to hide the problem & sometimes can do so for very long time. If play/lash very severe then rebuld is likely needed. 120K is low for these sort of issues though but bad gear oil & driver who harsh with clutch & heavy towing can soon cause a lot of lash in a transmission.

Chinese copy ****. You would be better with a asthmatic monkey blowing in your intake pipe over that. If you got a td04 & it in good order stick with it as matches to the the uk s turbo engine well .

Indeed sir, Will you be wanting your car chipped as well !

Yes the all windows open didn't sound right but I went on my perceived judgement of character of mr majik_thighs which led me to be fooled & need rethink my judgement of character via forums :-S what a total ilk :-@ you are marked man mr majik_thighs. I am going service all outbacks with used cooking oil from my local takeaway until the new year as your punishment :-)

Off top of my head I think standard boost on uk s turbo was 0.50 or 0.55bar I would expect it at 1bar be about 230hp but all depends exactly how cheap it been done & what other support mods added. I would look at some of those items to see exactly what you got, have a look a ecu too as if prodrive it will be labelled. Wouldn't be surprised it simply a 1bar mod with no real supporting ecu work. You need do some investigating to see exactly how well you done or been done. If any work looks dodgy you would be wise give it a run on a 4 wheel dyno to check fueling ignition etc as if these not close to perfect it will soon be fubar.

Lol, you had me :-) ...

As gambit has suggested ICP could be very helpful in supplying quality part at fair price. Pattern parts are available so a decent above average autofactors should also be able help you out. Decent pattern ones are about £40. Fitted on huge range of Subarus so easy pull a couple from a friendly breakers yard for like £10 if want a cheap test option. Even the earlier R00 versions work, about 4 different subaru PN# on that type & I think they all interchangeable as mainly version changes to design/manufacturer rather than compatibility.

Is this UK model or JDM import. The UK model was about 170hp the JDM was around 240hp as the engine was almost the same spec as a WRX. TD04 was not standard on either. 300hp on the JDM is quite easy, on the uk version not worth the cost really in my opinion but with a remapable ecu the uk could probably run around 1.2 - 1.3 bar without silly money being spent & have respectable output. Would need be very healthy engine. You best having look at turbo & ecu etc just to confirm what you currently got & get idea what may of been fiddled about with.

combination of heat & vibration, Normally fail near clip for plug but saying that the OEM ones do last for over 10 years as a rule. have had original on old legacy of mine that done 14 years & 160+K mls on original leads. Most of the problem is sloppy independents with component plan servicing who throw your nice OEM ones away for worst crap at the motorfactors then regular faults start building up ... Get at least 2 subarus a month with intermittent misfire sometimes with flashing CEL or a spot of very intermittent hesitation & most times it a bad lead. Done one last month & it had been to Main Dealer for same fault, they had replaced O2 sensor & with diagnostics & labour the bill was £300, problem seemed solved but within 3 days the same fault happened again, owner struggled with dealer mainly as fault didn't happen when went back for them to test drive. Ended up at my garage as owner lost faith in dealer along with too much cash & wasted time, we sorted it for £45 all in . Don't always work out as easy at that but nice when does ...

Indeed, leads are very likely at fault. Couple of lead options below if needed. Prospark being cheap option but they not bad, used them on 2 of my own Foresters & run of the mill Subarus for customers & they have proved durable & almost faultless. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PROSPARK-OES1234-Ignition-HT-Lead-Set-SUBARU-IMPREZA-2-0-WRX-STI-2-0-WRX-TURBO-/350928318911?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Model%3AForester|Plat_Gen%3ASF&hash=item51b4f531bf Better quality option from UK manufacturer, about £50 inc P&P http://www.performanceleads.co.uk/ShowDetails.asp?id=901&code=FLA276

A lot of the professional readers will work on the pre OBD2 setup of Subaru. Likes of the early snapon readers, Launch readers, they can be found used quite cheap these days. Another optioin could be TOAD software & cable, this would be less than £80 for software to run on notebook & a quality cable. Have heard the TOAD system supports pre OBD2 compliant subaru but never used it myself but anyone interested could get that confirmed via TOAD as it is probably cheapest decent kit if does. Obviously you can still connect the diagnostic plugs & read codes via flashing CEL ... http://uk.subaruownersclub.com/forums/topic/2366-manually-reading-ecu-codes/ Another option for those who want a bit of a project is looking at the Evoscan software & digging up some info on tweaking a cable to link it to the Subaru ssm1 or ssm2 connector layout ssm1 is a 9 pin plug and normally on likeys of 1990-1996 subarus ssm2 uses the standard looking 16pin OBD2 socket but is not OBD2 & only a few select pins are used. Is possible to make a cable usb or parallel port for either at less than £10 You can also buy them but price for decent ones is probably £30+ Only downside is evoscan does not suport all ECU ROM version of subaru as there were so many but it does the majority & worth a play for the curious home mechanic. Couple of links below to get people started. http://www.4bc.org/vanagon/engine.html http://www.microtopia.org/personal/subaru-ej22e-odb1-ssm-to-reader-options https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7Ub2apq5-pfdnB6MlRoRC12Wnc/view?usp=sharing http://www.evoscan.com/evoscan-gps-obdii-cables/details/8/1/performance-vehicle-pc-diagnostic-interfaces/evoscan-subaru-select-monitor-i http://www.vwrx.com/index.php?pg=selectmonitor Edit : more useful info> make a ssm specific cable https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7Ub2apq5-pfMm03TXFhSml6Z2c/view?usp=sharing http://www.alcyone.org.uk/ssm/sma.html USB to FTDI FT232RL cable for ssm1 (less than £5) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6pin-FTDI-FT232RL-USB-to-TTL-Serial-cable-Converter-Adapter-for-Arduino-UNO-R3-u-/291399003192?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item43d8bbec38 ssm1 female connector harness/plug (less than £5) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SUBARU-JUSTY-LEGACY-XT-TURBO-WIRING-HARNESS-PC2-29-4-/250664110928?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3a5cbecb50 freeSSM software https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7Ub2apq5-pfNHVKZE13clFxc1E/view?usp=sharing EvoScan https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7Ub2apq5-pfdnB6MlRoRC12Wnc/view?usp=sharing Select Monitor https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7Ub2apq5-pfQ01ONloyclJyVjg/view?usp=sharing JECscan https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7Ub2apq5-pfcnpxNGtHWEl0Q0k/view?usp=sharing *worth noting a Vag-Com KKL 409.1 spec usb obd cable will generally work for late subarus with obd2 style connector but not full obd2 compliant & allow good communication via the freeSSM software. ** secret with the VAG cable is supports ISO9141 protocol & that matches protocol on pre OBD2 with the 16 pin OBD2 looking plugs. I will do a test with a cheap (less than £5 at time I got one) VAG cable & if works will do a post on it including links then you guys who just missed OBD2 will have some half decent diagnostics at price of a takeaway. will be after christmas before get the copy cable but for sure will update on it as soon as can. Link below is one I tested off eBay as a cheap solution for late model ssm2 use & OBD2 use. worked fine and received quick. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/351567535286 eBay uk option http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/322239774503 With pre 1999 model subarus (UK, EU, JDM) on ssm1 best you can do is make the ssm1 cable & use it with evoscan which will allow data monitoring/logging or Select Monitor 1999 to 2002 will work with ssm2 (looks like obd2 plug but not but works with ISO9141 supporting OBD2 cable) freeSSM works great on this ( https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7Ub2apq5-pfNHVKZE13clFxc1E/view ) 2002 onwards works with freeSSM via OBD2/ssm2 (freeSSM support usb cable only)) or any OBD2 software (via OBD2 cable or bluetooth-OBD2 elm327 dongle) such as Torque app for android or OBD autoDoc for notebook pc which support usb-obd2 cable or BT & WiFi dongles. Cheap OBD2 bluetooth dongle > http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ELM327-V2-1-OBD2-CAN-BUS-Bluetooth-or-WIFI-Car-Auto-Diagnostic-Interface-Scanner-/172237551848 Cheap UK OBD2 bluetooth dongle > http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mini-OBD2-II-ELM327-V2-1-Bluetooth-Car-Scanner-Android-Torque-Auto-Scan-Tool-UK-/262171733609

being top house that should be no problem but would quickly top-up rad before driving, sometimes a very little bit of grease rubbed to inside of the house can help it bed more perfectly as it being tightened up, highly likely hard scale deposits on inside of pipe causing issue or perhaps the rad pipe flange or fastener itself !

For anyone wanting cheap option but pretty good quality then Delphi links TC1762 are best price to quality option & easy buy via eBay at £13.22 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Delphi-Front-Axle-Left-Drop-Link-Genuine-OE-Quality-Anti-Roll-Bar-Stabiliser-/351223787856?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item51c691b150