soop

More golden info many thanks stants, I've been using import cars. Co. UK and the guy is so knowledgeable so I'll use them. So I should ask for : transmission mount, gearbox bushes and I suppose I should do the front mounts and the pitch stop bar too yeah stants.?is that what you replaced? I love that our cars are the same mileage ha ha. Thanks again mate

awesome cheers stants, can you hit me with some links please mate?

Hi all, I hope this is in the right section, apologies if not. I recently put new cambelt and head gaskets on my 98 JDM Forester turbo and it's all good (cheers for all the advice and help on that all) but i get a bit of lurch when pulling away and changing gear. I had a sticky butterfly valve, it was all coked up like kate moss so I cleaned it and it feels better but still a bit lurchy on gear change. I got my mate to look at the transmission mount as i gently let the clutch off in 2nd with the handbrake on but he says there's minimal movement about 3mm up and down which doesnt seeem excessive, has anyone else had this problem and how did they resolve it? I suppose that taking an engine out and wiggling it to get it back in would take its toll on the ENGINE mounts, should I replace them? OEM or are there any cheap good ones because im broke. Cheers all.

Stants would these be alright on ours?

I'm an idiot, I had the top two smaller water pipes the wrong way round... Idiot. Figured it out by looking at a photo I took of the engine BEFORE I took the engine out.

Bit would that cause the pressie?

Hi all, I noticed a few weeks ago that the rubber seals on my rad cap were perished, so i got another 0.9bar cap and it all seemed cool, then had the cambelt done at a local (good) garage, belt, all tensionere, idlers, water pump and thermostat were replaced. iwanted to do it myself but work interfered. When I picked it up it was sweet, I drove it for a few days and noticed it was misfiring, so swapped the plugs in vain, it carried on missing after running for about ten mins, and after inspecting the old plugs i noticed that one was oily, almost wet, so after some research I presumed it was head gasket failiure and ordered all the gaskets from Importcars.co.uk (recommended by Stants) The guy is really helpful and knows his stuff, I got my genuine bits cheaper than anywhere else I could find and would thouroughly recommend this firm. So I pulled the engine, and the one cylinder with the fouled plug was shiny clean. We inspected the old gasket and thought we saw where it had blown, cleaned everything up and put the new 1.6mm uprated genuine gaskets on, new o rings in the water transfer pipe, new inlet and exhaust etc, then filled it with coolant, this takes ages, pouring, squeezing pipes, gently running the car to try to purge the air, left it overnight, came back, squeezed, poured etc until i was happy that there was no air, then ran it up to temp and let the fan cut in, but soon after the fan cut in the OVERFLOW tank was filled fast from the rad outlet and poured out of the OVERFLOW onto the cam case. I have tried bleeding the coolant system again but it keeepsdoing this overflow thing. I know I shoukd have got the heads pressure tested but I had to be back at work. I know thats stupid but I am stupid sometimes. Has anyone had this pressure problem and do you know what causes it? Cheers all, Will.

Awesome. Will a non turbo engine be OK to replace mine with? Can I use the block and put it in my car?

I appreciate all your help and wise words, I'm going to cry and think about it for a bit

Sorry I replied before your last message. It's not immaculate, synchro gone on 4th and looking like going on 5th but went through latest mot with no advisories, and I just put 6 months tax. They're are loads quite cheap, I'm really stuck, it's a case of spend 1500 on a rebuild or find a whole car and put my decent bits on. ,

And if the block is serviceable, re bore, new bearings, pistons rings and if I can find decent heads. That still costs more than the car is worth!

How much would you spend on a 98 work van?

It had piston slap and a knock on start up, running up to temp and on overrun.