Dino

Check out these links to get the oil spec for your car. Bear in mind, if you have a very high mileage Subaru, then using a thicker oil such as 10W/40 over 5W/30 is ok because it may need it to improve compression and help reduce wear. Mobil: http://ew5.earlweb.com/search.php?site=105®ion=120&language=5&brand=106 Castrol: http://oilselector.castrol.com/c/uk/eng/search

Good point... You can flush with cheap thin oil with the old filter still in. In theory, any deposits from the top of the engine will settle out in the old oil filter which you can then remove. Put the new oil filter in and then put in the new 5W/30 oil.

Hi, thanks for the welcome bowthruster. Engine flush is thought to be bad news these days. In theory, there shouldn't be any carbonised black deposit build up in a modern engine using Synthetic Oil due to the additives in it already. Only the Oil Filter will tend to collect any deposits in modern engines. The thicker oil residue will settle at the bottom of the sump and drain out on oil change at the recommended regular manufacturer intervals. Volvo for example do not recommend using ANY engine flush on service these days as they say it does more harm than good because it loosens up the engine parts de-carbonising ports, valves, valve seats and push rods etc and then things wear out quicker or go BANG! What I have heard is to drain the old oil out, but then get some really cheap "thin" synthetic oil like Comma 0W/20 or 0W/30 and use that to flush the engine, but leaving it in for two hours first to do its stuff, turning the engine over occasionally. Then drain this dirty oil out again to top up with the manufacturers specification oil (5W/30 Mobil or the like).

Nice one. Do you know how much petrol the Hawkeye Impreza WRX / STI tank holds? I've read the owner's manual from end to end and it does not say, rather it only advises on there being 2 galls left when the low fuel light comes on.

Thanks Gambit. Yes its interesting... I wondered whether injector cleaner may cause problems in a 200+ BHP flat four, like the plugs may break up or something. The oil additives are interesting though because they seem to do a good job at sealing worn pistons in the barrel and allowing them to glide better, similar to the additives now being added to Ron 98 petrol and synthetic oil.However, my experience and testing of these shows me that some are very good at doing the job, however don't use PTFE additives - they are BAD news.

In general, as Subaru engines are powerful, do fuel additives and oil additives provide any benefit? I was thinking of trying an injector cleaner as these tended to work well on my former cars because the kerosene in these cleans and adds a bit of torque too once run through in the fuel. Does anyone here use injector cleaner or the like on a flat four engine?

I read in the owners manual that my WRX needs Subaru Anti-Freeze which is Ethylene Glycol (green). It also states you must not mix it with other ethylene glycol anti-freeze??? So question is, with a second hand car you can tell your car has Subaru Anti-Freeze in it cos its green looking fluid, but surely then you can just mix any other green ethylene glycol anti-freeze into the radiator reservoir 50/50 for the desired protection? Or am I missing something? Is Subaru anti-freeze a specific type? Comments and Feedback appreciated. :)

Just looking here, but if there's a VVT (variable valve timer) then this is usually the cause of a rough idle. If a VVT goes faulty (solenoid deteriorates) then it will not show up on a code reader. However, if you take it off and clean it thoroughly you may find the idle will be smoother. If you leave a rough idle too long and a VVT is the problem then eventually it will destroy your front lambda sensor and this will put the EML on.

Beware: There are some HKS SSQV fakes around with poor quality powder coat paint, without the "R" for registered next and above the HKS name brand. The HKS fake is a faded brand name rather than crisp and clear with the legitimate one. Also, the cir-clips are stainless steel with the HKS real one rather than steel for the fake one.

ok with a lambda sensor, a code reader will tell you if the "O2 sensor" is faulty - This is the same thing. With lambda sensor replacement, the code will not automatically disappear. You need to run the engine and stop/start at least 2-3 times before the ECU recognizes its been replaced. This is typical for a lambda sensor replacement. The EML will disappear when its ok and found to be working normally. If it remains on, the new lambda is either faulty or not recognised. Also, never try and clean a lambda sensor because these days a cleaner will destroy it, e.g. Petrol, Oil, WD40 etc will contaminate and ruin it. With normal running, the lambda sensor should be a light brown colour with the holes visible to allow the exhaust gases to be analysed by an electrical potential difference in the lambda so the ECU can read this info and make the engine adjustments accordingly. If you find the live wire (red) and the earth wire black (usually two or four wires or only two wires) then you can connect a potentiometer or volt meter and see if there is voltage in the wiring to the sensor - with the ignition on it should read above zero Volts - if not, first check the fuse in the fuse box and then if not this then you need the last resort of following the wiring back to see if there are any breaks and earth issues anywhere.

I just got info from Subaru UK about the GDGK VIN type. It's a Cyprus import and therefore is not listed on any UK Subaru VIN systems. Amazing. Well, I asked about the recall for the "control arms". Apparently this only applies to steel ones, not aluminium. And because my Impreza is a 57 plate then it may not apply to it anyway... further details pending. Has anyone had experience of having these control arms replaced? Recall Ref: R/2011/146 Exact Model: Forester and Impreza Description: LOWER CONTROL ARMS MAY FAIL Build Date: 1 jan 2002 to 31 dec 2008 Numbers: 23010 Defect: The front Transverse links (lower Control Arms) may corrode leading to possible breakage if left without treatment. Action: Either additional rust proofing or replacement of the Transverse links will be performed according to the degree of corrosion.

Thanks for the feedback. I can't determine for a 2007 WRX Impreza from the info you've provided unfortuately. I am now more confused lol. My VIN is ...GDGF for my 2007 Subaru Impreza WRX 2.5, however the "GF" bit for the WRX model "F" is ok, but the G in front looks odd because it seems the GF should be something like a digit then F, not a letter G then F. I called Subaru UK and they can't find the VIN. They only list UK models though. It may be an import (which all Subaru's are anyway they said). Its definitely a legitimate UK registered car with DVLA and HPI checked, and its insured easily with all info provided. I really need to check the VIN when I get the car back from the workshop this week though.

Hi Rick 2014, Recommend best thing to do: Raise a Case in the eBay Resolution Centre. EBay will then have a record of the information provided by the seller and you such that you will automatically get your money back under the eBay long distance selling rules. You shouldn't need to go to Paypal directly because you traded through eBay who are thereby obligated as the trader to resolve the problem, not Paypal. Hope this helps.

Hi, new here. Now I hope you can all follow this after a few beers lol... try it! "---GDGK.........." I got a 2007 Impreza WRX with VIN "G" as 6th letter. Does this conform to the usual VIN format?... It's a legitimate Impreza "Hawkeye" WRX 2.5 - HPI and DVLA advised its ok. It has 4th and 5th VIN letters indicating "GD" to show this is a standard model "Impreza - Sec Gen Sedan" model accordingly, however the GK immediately after GD only makes some sense because the K is for a WRX or STi which is good, but the 6th letter G is questionable. The engine type is the 6th character. Could the G in position 6 be the "ABCDEFG" 7th letter in the alphabet such that it should be reading 7K instead of GK for a 2500cc AWD Turbo which is what the car is? Can anyone help and advise if they've seen this before? Is it perhaps a typo from when registered new in the UK (2007)? Or is there something about GDGK that makes it some sort of import of the like? And, to be sure where can I check the VIN on the car please? I don't know where it is... newbie :0) Many Thanks.

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