22 mpg

Thanks Rick but the welding isn't the issue anymore. I got my Landrover toolkit out and welded it up again. It's the clanging noise under engine breaking that's the problem now. btw, I work on the other side of manchester on Oxford road.

I'm in Atherton near Leigh.

Sorry. It's here http://uk.subaruownersclub.com/forums/topic/10389-is-it-worth-welding/ I'm useless at forums, I can't even workout the how to video's lol.

Thanks Rick. It's all in the thread, Is it worth welding. I've put lots of info and sound file in there. Cheers

Think i'm gonna have to take her in for some professional tlc re my thread, Is it worth welding. Can anyone recommend a good garage in the Manchester area (Preferably North). I don't want to drive her too far as she sounds very poorly. :(

It seems to happen at speeds from around 40 to 70 mph, Mostly going down hill under engine braking and tends to stop when I use the brakes. It will also do it going up hill but you have to be doing about 70 and again only under engine braking. There's a little voice in the back of my head that keeps saying UJ on propshaft or transfer box as I also get a bit of a recuring bump but at very low speeds, as if there is something stuck to my tyre. That added to the fact that it sounds remarkably similar to when my propshaft fell off the diff on my old cortina and bounced off the road. Ah the old cortina, those were the days.

Ok so who else is not admitting they had a nissan micra

Tom do you know some pressure washers will draw water from a bucket or a water butt.

It did for a while but then I heard an old familiar noise that started all this in the first place. Once the car gets fully warmed up say 10 miles I get this loud clanging noise which appears to come from the passenger footwell. I can only discribe it as sounding like a cow bell, now i'm sure I haven't run over a cow recently so don't know how it's got there. On top of that I have a new noise that sounds like someone is tapping under the passenger footwell with a rubber mallet about 5 times a second, I've had a look and there no one there. The cow bell noise is most noticable over 60 mph under engine braking and the knocking under gentle acceleration at around the same speed. This is my cowbell. Voice 002.wav Please tell me someone has had this before. I've checked all the heat shields and fitted the new exhaust.

The answer is absabloodylutely. Took her for a spin up the motorway and she's as good as new. Even the new exhaust sounds good. it's only a cheap pattern part but it gives off that sound that only a scooby makes and at a volume us oldies appreciate.

Not so much a rant but when I took my scooby in the have the exhaust fitted today the young mechanic says "I love scooby's there my favourite car, what mods have you done to it". Am I the only one who has done absolutely nothing and thinks it perfect as is it, apart from sticking in a pioneer appradio so now i'm stuck with the !Removed! iphone :D.

Finished welding up my sills,loads of zinc primer and even more waxoil. Got the garage to fit the new exhaust I bought (Best £48 I've ever spent) and gave her a !Removed! good wash.

I bought one about 10 years ago cos I was on the road all the time and it was crap. Had to switch it to local to stop it picking up shop doors, as scooby Pete said. It picked up the cameras as you went past them. The laser detector used to sound going past the services on the M61 when there was no one there. I think there was also something about the newer windscreens cutting down the sensitivity. Especialy the ones where you had to put your phone aerial behind the rearview mirror, and I believe the !Removed! coppers changed the frequency of the radar which made them even more useless.

Just what I need for my daily commute to work. 16 miles in 10 minutes (have to allow some for traffic lights). Time for another weetabix.

It was a bit of a tongue in cheek statement and I definitely wouldn't try it on dry roads for fear of the above. I just thought it would be a good idea to know what to expect should I end up going sideways on a patch of ice. So when I found my works carpark empty and full of snow I gave it a whirl. I did a similar thing with my scooby when it snowed last year, thats how I discovered how easy it was to turn the car round without actualy going anywhere lol.

Like my old school teacher used to say. Must try harder

I did a few handbrake turns in my 96 landrover disco on an empty snow covered car park once. That was fun, they slide further than you'd think. :D

Many years ago old friend of mine had a Lada with twin choke webers on it. Got 105mph down hill with 4 of us in it.

Hope you don't mind a newbee joining in. Toyota corola 1200sr, Rear ended outside my house and never caught the buggers. Mk V Cortina. Complete with rotten wishbones in boot Company cars Maestro 1300 van. Big end made a dramatic exit through the sump on the M6. LWB Transit Astra 1.7 D non turbo. quicker to walk Cavalier 1.7 CD Vectra 2.0 CDX, Getting better zafira 2.2 zafira 1.9 cdti 150 bhp Back to my own cars Landrover Disco 300tdi Scooby Legacy 2.5 GX Forgive me if i'm out of order mentioning my bike but I love my Yamaha Fazer 8. 0-60 under 3.5 sec and 74 in first gear.

Lots of good advice to digest. I decided to cut a section from the outer sill to gain access to the inner sill. This is not my car. I just pinched the picture from a website as an example. See profile pic as it won't let me put it here. The outer sill was fine so i cut along the back where the rust was and where it joins the floor pan (I'm not a mechanic so excuse if the terminology is incorrect). I then cut across the top as in the above pic and down the sides to remove that section. The inner sill looked remarkably similar to the picture. I drilled out the spot welds on the bottom lip of the sill and removed all the remnants of the old inner sill and floor pan. I treated all the rust with a good dose of rust remover and welded a new piece to the inner sill down to where it should have been. After spraying the inner sill with a few coats of zinc primer I welded the outer sill back on and redid the spot welds to the new metal. I'm now in the process of plating over the floor pan before seem welding it along the bottom of the outer sill and spraying more zinc primer and waxoil. Regarding waxoil inside the sills. I don't mind waxoil where I can remove it to complete any future repairs but it got a bit tiresome stopping every 5 minutes to put the fires out when welding my old landrover. Now I have typed all this I may have made a complete tit of myself in assuming the piece with the big holes stamped in are actualy the inner sill. I did notice another box section at the back of this that was fine, so I may have done all this for nothing. Thanks again.

Thanks for the tip re the stepped wooden blocks. It took 11 14 inch long (35 ish cm for you youngsters) x 3 inch thick blocks and a new pair of underpants when I nearly drove off a 3 block stack. There's not much fine control in the auto box.

My quotes came in at around £600 to £700, If you add in the £500 for the exhaust which I bought (but have not fitted yet) the car is not worth much more. It was suggested that if I could weld I could do it myself. Having spent all weekend cutting and welding it is almost completed and looking ok. The question is how structural are the sills? I am happy that they are not going to fall off but not so sure if my welding is strong enough to take the weight of a major part of the structure. Cheers or reading.

I'll probably go with Stants advice and get some quotes first, there's only so much you can do on your drive in winter lying on your back.

I've had it about 3 years. I think it belonged to a building firm, it had a private plate (changed before I bought it) and 56k on the clock. The car has been well undersealed so you can't see much, especially if it's from the inside out. It had an excellent service history, cam/timing belt changed at 6 years, subaru service history etc. I would do the work myself if I could get enough ground clearence and somewhere to do it.

Didn't check the drain holes, but it would make sense. I got rid of my landrover cos I was fed up of welding it for every mot, and with the scooby's 10 year anti corosion warranty I figured it should be good for a while yet.