Jay762

the insurance companies that look at mods positively and forum club membership relates to recognising an interested enthusiast who spends time and money taking care of his / her car and therefore are more likely to take more care driving it.

bigger / more effective brakes can also be an advantage whilst driving legally in a residential area if a youngling chases a ball out in front of your car - it can be looked at both ways

its quite the unit already and Simon may be along to comment having recently owned / sold one.

my 2p - new brake pads - EBC red or yellow

these mods are all for the driver that is a little more spirited / track orientated

research a remap to ensure fuelling etc all correct to avoid any high rev miss-haps, also I dont know if it is a drive by wire throttle but if it is you could be looking at flat foot shifting, launch control and down shift blips  ;) 

uprated coolant pump

uprated oil pump and sump baffle

Any ideas what the original bulb is ? be easy to track down any replacement bulbs if if you do. and don't forget to bright MOT fails :( dam EU

As with exhausts etc it depends on the MOT station - my aftermarket bulbs went through no problem but just be prepared to swap between the two if there is an issue

on a side note they are brilliant for these plonkers who feel they can drive at night with high beam on permanently gets the message across :P

You can get discounted insurance from Adrian flux by being a member of this forum

http://uk.subaruownersclub.com/forums/topic/544-up-to-15-off-your-scooby-insurance/

Hopefully that has sorted it - just a little air in the system

seen a chap doing it for a motor bike light and it trashed the back, got some pictures somewhere - as you say though less heat and it would be fine

and have them glass down as the plastic will melt on the baking tray

Brilliant!!

As posted engine performance gains will be limited - spend money on chassis and brakes, shed as much weight from the car as you can to improve the power to weight ratio this should enable you to carry higher corner speeds etc

WRT the compression or leakdown test suggested, that may not show up an issue if it is head lift as the problem will only manifest itself under the heavy driving loads you described

A leakdown is preferential to a compression test as it doesn't rely on cranking the engine from the Battery or position of throttle bodies to get pressure up and consistent readings 

it varies dependant on how much is pulled back from the over flow reservoir when you stop or if non over flowed during last session it could be lower

This one is local to me if you fancy dropping in for a brew

http://uk.subaruownersclub.com/forums/topic/1683-subaru-impreza-330s-for-sale/

hatchback though not a boot if that would sway your decision at all?

yep I saw that but didn't want to say anything now was letting him work through the could be to the OMG nooooooo's.... :( I also think their talking about high end tracked cars which have a newer 2.5 engine. I put it up just for pointers. so start at the pipes and rad then work to the more expensive things.  

Thats true - they seemed for the most part to be 2.5l engines although the tune and work varied from car to car.

I'd replace ethe thermostat anyway, I had one that looked like it worked ok when testing in the kettle, but wasn't opening fully when in the car. At £30 its one of the cheaper things to eliminate.

WRT Petes post here, is there a flow around the tubes as if the thermostat is not opening that could cause the water in the rad to boil through heat transfer alone from the engine when you are giving it the berries

yup agree - just monitor for the moment

There are also many references to the standard water pump cavitating at high revs as it is overdriven by the belt, first time I had read that (I knew about the oil pumps)

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2177491 this could help.

just been through this and the additional link referenced in the above thread

http://www.iwsti.com/forums/2-5-liter-litre-factory-motor/95480-update-overheating-pushing-coolant-change-head-gaskets.html

your symptoms match the guys describing stud stretching under load and subsequent head gasket failure - Of the examples given continued spirited / track driving caused warped and cracked heads.

The solution given is to tear down the engine replace the studs with ARP / Cosworth items torque up to the correct amount check the heads for warpage and rebuild with new gaskets

any chance of a photo - someone else may have exactly the same question B)

Spoiler - Top end of market but carbon fibre and integral LED brake light - its a simple remove / installation, few nuts and retaining clips

http://j-w-racing.co.uk/product.php/5268/1416/seibon_oem_style_carbon_fibre_rear_spoiler_for_2008_2009_subaru_impreza_wrx_sti

something a little less subtle

http://imexdesigns.co.uk/impreza-c-1_31_156.html

it worked you have some great shots - do like the ferrari F12 ... and the awesome gulf paint job on picture 708

as you are generating more heat / pressure when you put your foot down you could be stretching a split hose or expanding metal enough that a hole is created particularly with mating surfaces - if the rad and all the associated plumbing are sound you will need to investigate the head

check for what the mating surfaces are that bolt and bush rest upon, if there is a large surface area the bush is resting on then put it with the bolt

Wotcha and welcome! yup get some pics up would be great to see what you have achieved!

just keep it as normal water for the moment - the gains / losses you would experience for normal driving would not be noticable, its more the type of thing you would be using for spirited driving and trackdays - the hawkeye wrx sti I test drove did not have the water spray fitted but was still seriously rapid - if it was a major concern fitting a front mounted intercooler will improve the intake charge cooling

Agree spoiler is a must - that upgrade is going to put a smile on your face!!

not on facebook so ... Bump!