Jay762

yup all you do is update the numbers on the v5, that way if you do come to sell it there can be no doubt over the legitimacy of the change. Have done it with bikes a number of times - no drama :) You have exchanged like for like so its not as if you are trying to dupe the insurance companies

Wotcha and welcome - not too familiar with that model myself - however I would want to know some more details - has the car had any modifications, plug in ECU etc or is it totally standard?

aaaahhh that explains it, well that is certainly more appropriate and with the suggested mods it will look the part as well

naaaaaaaaaah I think you have given a well deserved bit of tlc to something that needed a new lease of life ;)

From a tinkering / engineering perspective you will get some / the same satisfaction - from a driving perspective its more form than function compared to the impreza so what is your reasoning for the swap?

aaahh right I see - there you go learnt something today as well B) mind you I don't know how I managed to read satin and then type matt duh! (probably because I didn't know what the difference was.

That is great news - a nice bit of confidence when it is finally fitted for you

Another job ticked off the list - like the idea of matt black not convinced about the UJ - watched deathproof the other day again how about getting a graphic knocked up?

Of those 3 I have only experienced India and whilst what I saw was disorganised chaos it is all at 10 - 20 mph so no real drama there

ooooooo the anticipation :D

Wotcha and welcome - It depends what else you have done to your car. Compare blowing through a hose pipe against blowing through a straw bolting on a bigger turbo will not necessarily give any gains but will generate more heat and back pressure resistance. TD04 is the first part of the code for the turbo and is the same for certain Legacys and Forresters but the internals are different giving different power delivery characteristics. Not knowing any further details at this point I would suggest retaining the TD04 size and look at a unit which will spool up quicker using a billet bearing or with a different blade profile dependant on how you would like the power to be delivered. Here are some options for bigger units that cover your year but it is not as simple as bolting on an upgrade http://www.ra-motorsport.co.uk/Product/Category/NA20100917115521

:lol: :lol: :lol:

about 3 hours for me ;)

get the pads out then pump them 95% out, yes you end with more brake fluid to drain but it is easier than spending time trying to get them out with the brake caliper tool - the really easy way is a grease gun and penetrating oil that way they dont fire pistons all over your garage etc when they go pop

Why eye man thats b'cus ye canne speak the Glasgae dialect - :P You need to get schooled by the master http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3AqzSAb62D8

Its a nice run though down the coast through the NE of England

Wotcha and welcome - it depends on your budget but start with air in exhaust out - hi flow filter, larger induction tube and a free flow larger diameter exhaust, manifold and down pipe with an ECU remap. A different way is to source a turbo version of the legacy and do a transplant. Be aware of more power means your brakes and suspension will be tested more so make sure they are up to the task of keeping you on the road and out of someone elses boot ;)

Pays to shop around, all sounds promising

Thanks Thanks

Not in anyway Subaru related but saw this on a different forum and just sat doing a goldfish impression

Slick 50 is an oil treatment / additive and there is a product designed for engines over 75K miles on the clock, use of a decent oil should mean you don't need the additives however where things like that do come into their own is if the engine has thick oily deposits internally that need breaking down so completing an engine flush as part of a service routine would address that. With the oil it is as much to do with its capability to withstand shear under load as how thick - we have a resident oil guru (oilman) who would be able to give specific recommendations for your model and maybe more peace of mind than one of the forum member could. He also provides a discount to club members using SUBOC at the checkout. http://uk.subaruownersclub.com/forums/topic/872-club-update-from-oilman-opie-oils/ complete the search recommendations for your car here http://www.opieoils.co.uk/product-finder/car/engine-oil/subaru/product-finder-2.aspx some oil info http://uk.subaruownersclub.com/forums/topic/323-lubricating-a-modified-car-some-info-from-oilman-opie-oils/ http://uk.subaruownersclub.com/forums/topic/320-some-basic-oil-advice-from-oilman-opie-oils/

thats easy I just have all my passwords as ******** then I never forget them and it even gives you a big hint on most sites as to what it would be

There are some items available in the US domestic market only - would you ship internationally?

Wotcha and welcome - no such thing a daft question particularly if you are just getting involved with something. Having had the belts changed is a good thing, the engine should be good for another 100,000 if there is a consistent service history, you will need a new exhaust and turbo rebuild at some point but with a view to keeping the car for a while you could go for a stainless steel option with a lifetime guarantee. The turbo build will vary dependant on type, some have bearing rollers which whilst the offer better operation and last longer are more expensive in the first place. On ebay for example there is a unit from a breaker for £80 or a brand new standard replacement for £500 or you could have your own rebuilt for about £350. Main bearings can go if the shaft has not been properly aligned during manufacture but seeing as yours has done 100k just check for a noisy idle. There are a couple of video links on this site to engines that have had bearings fail on them so you know what to listen for. Check for rust on rear wheel arches. milky coloured oil, clunking of bearings when on full lock and turning, tyre tread depth, all electrical things functioning. As other come on line I'm sure they will provide additional info

I think with how you have dealt with the car so far this will be easily resolved. Grab a cup of horlicks (Gambit would probably tell you bovril ) cuddle the missus and have a look in the morning. You know whats good and you have had something break as well which may affect the error codes on top of resetting the ECU so multiple scenarios which can be approached in the light of day eliminated one by one. But it is good you are getting your wheels done as well - an inconvenient bonus