moshe_levy

changed the cranck pully to perrin one,every thing was/is ok but noises from steering wheel pump started and when i touch the return hose it stops. i saw on bottom of the hose some cracks maybe air get into the hose from their. i will replace it as soon as i find one. Sent from my SM-G610F using Tapatalk

thanks for the answer,but is it worth at all making this change,what do i earn by doing that instead of leaving the original setup? Sent from my SM-G610F using Tapatalk

hello why should i put it,what is the different between recycling to inlet and the oil catch can? i saw on youtube that crawford cancel the pcv valve when instaling the oil catch is it ok? is it worth rhe money in general? thanks. Sent from my SM-G610F using Tapatalk

Turbo blanket and wrap the downpipe (bit late seeing as you've already installed it Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk does the blanket safe? it can not be ignite due to the heat that the turbo create? Sent from my SM-G610F using Tapatalk

replaced my downpipe with invidia catless one today... what heatshild do you recommend at? Sent from my SM-G610F using Tapatalk

Yup, 75 quid plus delivery... I would personally opt for a new one http://scoobyworld.co.uk/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=47_180&products_id=1292 it will fit 2007 forester XT? Sent from my SM-G610F using Tapatalk

but if i put avent i need to put also sensor f to tell the vent when to start working it's been complicated. or do i have other way to connect it? Sent from my SM-G610F using Tapatalk

this one that i sent you the picture is 30×30 cm i can't find something bigger it's 30 rows. Sent from my SM-G610F using Tapatalk

the first link i sent you is mishimoto rad. the picture is hyden 699 oil cooler,what i onderstand is that bar and fin better than what you sent me last,atube and fin,that's why i choose this one and not what mishimoto offer. Sent from my SM-G610F using Tapatalk

sorry the wrong link,this is the rad. Sent from my SM-G610F using Tapatalk

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0052R5PPQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_seY9ybTC3XK6J i'm thinking about this one. the first two that you sent me is little by my opinion,the 3 one is like what i just send you but mine is bigger. my trans oil comes into to the radiator in the botom on one side and goes out from the botom other side,the line inside the rad is ib side the coolant on the botom. i want to be sure that without coolant only with air the oil will be enuogh cold. Sent from my SM-G610F using Tapatalk

yes i think it worth it we have here alot up and down roads and the car is "burning",but does this oil cooler without the oem one will be ok,because it only will be cooling by air? Sent from my SM-G610F using Tapatalk

hello i own 2008 forester XT auto trans, i wanted to replace my radiator to mishimoto because i live in hot country. the mishimoto does not have oil cooler in their radiators. my question is if i put plate and fin cooler 30 rows like for instans HAYDEN 699 is it will be enough or i have to keep the original one in the radiator? thanks Sent from my SM-G610F using Tapatalk

will it fit to my car ,do i need to make any adjustments or it will replace the oem easly? thanks Sent from my SM-G610F using Tapatalk http://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/58e91a6a38dfb/Screenshot_20170408-200934.png?

Update.... After almost a month that i try to find this annoying problem i changed lines, put back the oem ic and bov,cheked for leaks and nothing,so today i decided maybe the bcs connect upside down so i told my self what the he....turn them upside down and waaaallllaaaa the car got life. Now i don't know what i did wrong but i'm quite sure that i saw the line come from the T piece goes to the upper hole of the bcs and the down one goes to the intake some where on the net,now i changed it and every thing like it should be. I have this BCS. Now when every thing is finaly ok i can go on with moding the car. Thanks Sent from my SM-G610F using Tapatalk

May be at your country...mine if don't put your car at their garage so they will do the fix they won't let you know nothing , so that's why i try to get the part number and to go just buy from them Sent from my SM-G610F using Tapatalk And i ment before 4AT auto trans.[emoji4]

After a few days that i have been thinking about all the stuff that i mess with and googling around i start thinking maybe the restrictor pill that i put is not suitable to my car. I put 0.8mm which this is his part number:22326AA260. I understood that if i decrease the size of the hole the boost will raise up, so maybe the is to small and the ecu will drop the boost and than it's going up again and the ecu will drop it again. Some one can tell me what is the size that suit to my car. It's a 2008 old shape 2.5L XT engine in the license is EJ25 4EAT. THANKS. Sent from my SM-G610F using Tapatalk

I have the obd 2 connector it does not show any code and the cel is off. I put a tmic intercooler (i will add photos). The boost is cuting not over boost.it is going down than goes up again ect....leake i dont think so cause i replaced almost all of the vacums line. Sent from my SM-G610F using Tapatalk

Hi every one i'm opening another topic wich in it i will explain the all situatuon. I have FXT 08 old shape,i replaced intercooler to an aftermarket one,than i put a K&N inbox air filter and canceled the noise box. Changed some vacum lines to silicon and put new 0.8 restrictor pill, (cause the old one i mistakely throw away). Now my boost is not stable and the mechanic told me after he drove the car that i have knoks abd that's whay the boost is up and down because the ecu lower the boost in order to avoide the knok. I have to say that when i disconnect the line that goes from the T piece to the BCS the car is very smoothly and fast.when i put a line strate from the boost to the wastgate with out the BCS also the car is ok just the boost is only 6-7 PSI. Now my quastion is according to what i replaced do i need to tune the car that is why the knoks cause i missing fuel? I bought new BCS it should arrive soon. Thanks guys Sent from my SM-G610F using Tapatalk

Well.....sorry for bothering you guys but it came back today again when i'm pushing half throttle the boost get crazy up and down but when disconnect the vacum hose that comes from the T piece from the BCS every thin is ok, i think maybe it's the BCS itself the problem. Any one has ideas where to look and what? Sent from my SM-G610F using Tapatalk

Update: After i cleaned the BCS i changed the BOV also and did apull and all of the things that were gone. The car is smoothly the boost is not up and down any more. Hope it is all over so we can look forward...[emoji4] Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk

Here i took some pictures. Yesterday i cleand the BCS with carb spray,i connected the valve to the battery and heard it open and close and also blowed inside when it was open every thing seems to be fine i think..... Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk

Here is some pic of the turbo and the lines that goes from it to the T and to the actuator Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk

I can't leave it just like that cause when it all connect like it should be the car not like it should be and on half throtle the boost goes up and down not stable and the accelaration isn't smoothly,now when disconnect that line the car got life. I will take some pic later. Thanks Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk

Update....: Today i disconnect the line from the BCS that comes from the T peace. And suprise the car is driving smoothly and very fast. So that's mean that the problem is the BCS isn't it? What should i do next? Thanks Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk