Daz-RSK

People - when you get a mo, could you please look at the last service sheet you have the car, if you have one, and advise what oil was placed in. Thanks. I don't know what they placed in on my 2nd service as it was done "on the house". But the initial service is advising they placed in 0W 20. I know a lot of new cars have followed this route as they can extend service intervals and is good for emissions, being so thin. Therefore, it didn't surprise me that Subaru would spec this, even though I will move to 5W 30/40 when I get to service it, as I believe the 0W 20 is too thin anyway. But when I look up the spec, it should be 5W30/40 anyway. So I am questioning why the dealer has placed in 0W 20. Anyway, please let me know what your dealer(s) have placed in. Ta.

Yes, it can be done but it costs a lot of time and money. You effectively have to recreate the motor through a new homologation process. Not worth doing because, as said, it costs a packet to do and you need to be prepared to demonstrate why it would fit into a lower bracket through tests, some of the equipment you would not have access to. But the simple answer is yes it can be done.

Yes, this is all a bit confusing. Basically because the rules are new and completely throw today's stuff on its head, this flies in the face of what the regs are today. I'll try to break it down a bit as there is a lot of stuff going on here. Only cars registered after 1 April 2017 change. Your car you own today does not change and will never change. However, there is speculation that maybe in a few years everything will be pegged to the same rate but, frankly, don't pin your hopes on it. Why would the govt want to take in less cash than they are today ? This is the drive for this change. Today, 80% of motors registered pay no road tax. Zero rated. The real world driving emissions that will be introduced later this year, to record the car's actual g/km, was going to fix that. But it seems our "stupid" govt have thrown that out and gone to this new system. We'll see if it generates more or less revenue. "Stupid ?" Well maybe it isn't and there are some real winners and a lot of losers here. There will be 3 bands:- True 0g/km emissions will be zero rated. So only battery electric vehicles. Yes, yes - I know that the charging of these only moves the emissions from your tailpipe to the power plant and there is a lot of argument about how clean these are. But for the sake of vehicle tax, these are the only £0 motors from 1 April 2017 (remember registered from that date). All cars (that are not battery powered) that are under £40,000 will be charged at £140 per year. So go out and buy a gas guzelling Mustang at 19mpg in the book, that car becomes £140 pa. Cracking isn't it! No more £530 for the Muzzy. However, there is a sting. The new car purchase tax doubles from £1000 to £2000 (doing this from memory - I am sure that one of those links above shows what it is). Even our own WRX STi will be at £140 pa but does have a hefty purchase tax. That's because the purchase tax is still based on CO2 emissions. All cars over £40,000 will have the £140 and a further £310 pa, for 5 years only, as a sort of luxury tax. So that fact you can buy a car that dear, the govt want the cash from you, as you should be able to afford it with your £80k BMW or Land Rover. After 5 years, the vehicle becomes £140 p/a. I mention "stupid" above. The issue is that we have some misfits. Given there is so much focus on pollution, I can't quite get what the govt are doing. So I pointed out the Mustang, probably the thirstiest, dirtiest motor less than £40k and benefits from £140 p/a. That's a £400 saving p/a over today's version and that will quite quickly eat into the new car tax hike, just that one off payment. Then you have the Tesla, a zero rated car but because it is over £40k, it has to have this circa £500 tax p/a. I get that it's a bit of a nonsense so many people paying nothing and effectively all of those cars are churning up our roads, paying nothing, which is rediculous. But the Mustang and the WRX are bit at odds with the Tesla. OK, I am not complaining as this rewards fast cheaper motors. But it is a bit strange. Unless you buy new cars every 1 or 2 years, most of us will have to wait to benefit from this on this forum I am sure. But a lot of people are sweating on this. I am looking forward to a car in the future with a £140 road tax and have a decent bit of performance - as I am sure so are you. But 2 million of the 2.5 million new car buyers in 2017 are going to find that their road tax bill has just inflated quite significantly. If you've been used to £0 or £30 road tax p/a for many years, if you decide to change your car for a new one later in 2017, suddenly the £140 annual bill is going to hit hard. It's funny how perspectives are at odds - I am looking forward to the reduction and most are looking at it as a nightmare. As someone said above, there'll be loads or pre-reg's through April and May and March might be a bumper sales month as this will be the last chance to get a new car at £0, £20, £30 road tax car for anything that isn't battery powered.

Unless any of you are wired up differently to anyone else, your ability to concentrate of 2 things at 100% is not possible. Someone already mentioned above that driving does actually require 100% concentration. OK, so the argument then goes that you don't need 100% concentration on the phone. So what's the issue ? The key issue is that the part of the brain you use to concentrate of current situations around you (junctions, roundabouts, cars around you) is the same part of the brain that you use to picture / visualise situations. Have you ever got to a destination and wondered what happened in part of it, as you have no recollection of it ? That is where your brain switches from concentrating on actions around you and the journey to something else you are thinking of. Therefore, it is not possible to picture someone's face you are on the phone to and have full concentration of your surroundings. A simple test will show this - post something on here whilst talking on the phone simutaneously will mean that you lose one or the other. You'll either stop the call or stop the post. Unless you are typing the callers words verbatim, you will not be able to do both things at once. Anyone who argues that they can are superhuman and I haven't come across a guy in a red cape with his undies on the outside yet. So why can we get away with losing part of the journey when daydreaming and not have an accident ? This is because your thought processing is voluntary, not being forced. You'd soon come out of that slumber if someone carved you up and you recover quite quickly into the here and now. Unfortunately, on a phone, where the caller is remote, you are forced to concentrate on the caller, otherwise, it makes for a very unstable call. Effectively, you'd be answering to stuff you haven't heard. Where you are not compelled to this process and just ploughing through idle thoughts, it is very easy to pull yourself out as there isn't a separate agenda right then to respond to. So, sorry to be harsh - if anyone here believes that they can adequately concentrate on an audio call and drive at the same time, having full concentration on both, is unfortunately deluding themselves. It is not possible. 50/50 is about the best you get and unfortunately 50% concentration is not enough for the roads, certainly the speed of traffic today. Someone mentioned CB radios and stuff that's been going on for 30+ years. Fatalities happened back then as well with CB usage. It's just it wasn't as widespread (99% of people have a mobile vs few % of drivers back then had a CB). Also it wasn't reported in the same way. A fatality happened because of the vehicle's design, not what was being used whilst being driven. Also, vehicle speed today is so much quicker. Where most cars' top end was a little more than the legal m/way limit in the past, today, all cars can achieve 80mph and compared to the past, at so much more quicker time. But to state it never happened, due to CB usage, is in fact false. Actually, whilst a technicality of being legal, there is a certain risk attached to CB usage today that could land you with a sentence if using it while driving. If the police saw you driving recklessly with a CB in the hand, you would be prosecuted for driving without due care and attention. If you killed someone, you would be facing a sentence and the reason would be not in full control of the vehicle through a handheld radio device. Just take it as very much conclusive - you take a phone call in your car, whilst moving, you lose some of your ability to drive.

This is where I feel the modern world has gone mad. Why do people need to be contacted 24/7 ? In the past, this was never the case. Even as late as the 1980's, if people were not near a phone (and that happened on the move before mobile phones), they could be got hold of. If businesses are more than one person in strength, there is the alternative that the mobile diverts to "an office" or to another fixed phone location where it can be answered. Otherwise, they leave a message on the answerphone. Sometimes, people just can't be got hold of for a variety of reasons. Unless it is a genuine emergency service that is being provided, I think that there is nothing that can't wait a couple of hours. It is merely paranoia that makes people believe they should be able to be contacted 24/7 but there is no research that shows if someone is uncontactable, it has a detrimental affect. What research has shown though is that using a mobile phone, hands free, is about the equivalent of as much control of the car as driving just over the limit on alcohol. Probably some of you will argue this out. Many say that why not have no passengers then because this is the same - people talking in a car is still a distraction. But I think the difference is that talking hands free means the other person is not part of the scene, part of the environment. If you think, you sail on up a m/way with 3 of you in the car and someone pulls out in front of you, carving you up. You all become part of that scene, the conversation stops and then everyone is having a go at the idiot driver. Leading up to this, everyone takes a deep breath at the near escape of the accident that was that close to happening. On a phone, the party is remote, has no idea of the situation and is expecting answers or conversation, even though they don't have the full grasp of the situation. Further, I know of few people who will hang up a phone when the driving condition is more difficult, like the situation ion the m/way I describe. I use the phone on hands free whilst driving but not so often. Personally, if that ability was taken away, just from drivers, I think the roads would become safer. If they removed all of the other paraphernalia as well that they seem to stick in new cars that are distracting, it would be even better. I have no issue with the ability to be taken away from drivers. I do have some issue with passengers (car and train) having no signal though and this is where this falls over.

I think the issue is texting and posting on FB that is causing some concern. Agreed, people should not be doing this. But they still are and I am not sure whether all bluetooth systems read and convey text & FB messages. As for selfies whilst driving......well that's just another thing altogether. I think one of the issues, Aucky, is that there are no police on the roads and I can't remember the number of people caught through 2016 with a phone to the ear, receiving fine & points, but it was horrifically low. Just shows that the current way is "unpoliceable" and, I guess, increasing the fine / points will do not a lot if there is no one to enforce it. If they brought back more police on the roads, that would be a start.

Just caught sight of this before Christmas. DfT, car manufacturers and mobile phone service providers are apparently going to meet in early 2017 to discuss ways around trying to limit the number of people using their phone to their ear or texting or posting of FB etc whilst driving, which is illegal. It comes in the wake of the number of accidents / fatalities on the roads as a result of mobile phone usage whilst driving. Also, they probably looked at a recent large survey which showed the lack of care for the law where 1 in 3 drivers have used / regularly use a phone illegally. So one solution that these parties are looking at is the block the mobile signal once the phone is traveling above xx mph, rendering the ability to call, text, send stuff as useless. There are other solutions on the table, for sure. I think that whatever route they choose, they are damned. Obviously there is enough concern out there that too many drivers are using their mobile illegally. But to ban all usage, when all cars made now and for the last 5/10 years have bluetooth capability, seems a nut cracked with a sledgehammer. I am sure you can see all sorts of flakiness in this concept. Let's see what happens.

Actually, your experience is the sort I see quite regular, whether the car has been converted to LPG or not. Please don't think that I was laying the blame of component failure on LPG. The valve seats can suffer but other things that go wrong are just incidental. What I was getting at is that you could pay £1500 on an LPG conversion and then nothing goes wrong with the motor. But if stuff starts to go wrong, the budget is blown anyway. No one can tell what sort of "journey" they are in for when they buy a used car. But normally, as age and mileage increases, there is more risk and the cost of repairs outweighs the benefits of the LPG conversion. Agreed, as the components that fail could happen to any car, it is difficult to equate one to the other. But all I am saying is that budget motoring is difficult because when they are new / newer, depreciation kills them, when the they are older / cheaper to buy, maintenance can become a headache. This is partly why I have difficulty with placing something on the car that is supposed to save you money - when you don't know what the outcome is. The only thing that is happening at the mo in London is that Khan is looking at an extra charge for passenger cars from Oct 2017. It is in consultation at the mo and that finishes in Feb 2017. It could be nothing happens if the consultation proves out to not be favourable. But if it is successful, all pre 2005 or pre Euro IV will have to pay an extra charge. They won't be banned but obviously when you consider an extra tenner a day to drive in to London or if a resident of London, an extra £2 per day on top of the £1 per day today, you effectively reduce their desire.

The issue with LPG fuel is that the calorific value is not as strong as petrol. Basically, you get less bang for the same quantity of fuel. Therefore, whilst LPG cost is 50% of petrol here, the true output is around 60-65%. So a 30mpg car on petrol translates to about 26mpg or so on LPG under the same driving condition. Nevertheless, there is a saving. The Kia that you drove with LPG on the continent. How old was this car ? Reasonably new ? This would be the only type of vehicle I would consider converting - the newer cars - because at least you have some guarantee that it won't croak before the conversion is paid back. Sorry, I know this comes across as quite harsh with your plan - buying a 100k+ miler for £1500 and then adding a £1500 conversion to it, expecting that the car will last, is asking for issues. You would be better off converting something that is newer, knowing that your investment is safe. People who are in favour of this fuel look at the pump price generally and this is what sways them. All the stuff about car reliability generally gets forgotten. You have to look at this thing as an investment - paying money up front for the usage to pay you back. The older the car / the higher the mileage on the car, the riskier the investment is because that investment could be wasted. I know that the Subaru is your preferred option. But would it be a good start to consider some diesel motors instead - a tried and tested formula for mileage munching for cheap money ?

Welcome on board. Ah.....the old LPG topic. They hate me on the other forum (a Legacy forum incidentally) I belong to because I am a firm believer that if you need to convert a car to run on 60ppl fuel, then perhaps it is the wrong motor for your needs. Legacies have been my background for 15 years so I have seen quite a few conversions being spoken about and all the experiences over that time. Some good reports / some bad. Valve seat recession being one of the complaints and the annual service which is mandatory and can't be overlooked. LPG fuelling issues or remap issues have been mentioned before. But many LPG people are converted in both fuel and mind that they are getting a great deal here and everyone else running on 25mpg at 120ppl have failed to grasp the benefit. When I start toying with them, they don't see my jibes as funny. Probably because my jibes are true. They do say the truth sometimes hurts. So I'll place down some reasons why this LPG thing is not really my scene:- Trying to find a station with LPG is a little more difficult and given the object of running LPG is to operate with that fuel fully, this starts becoming a headache when there isn't the coverage across the country. I have never seen a queue or even one car at an LPG pump on the forecourts where there is one. The number of cars converted are few in the UK and this speaks quite loudly to me about why does a 60ppl fuel not take off ? I think that both points above, that sort of look to popularity, are due to the finance side of this. Most people would say 60ppl is a good thing - cheap motoring. I say it is bad. You need to pay £1500 for a reputable conversion (you get the quality for what you pay) and then the fuel you place in over time pays this back and after some time and mileage, you are quids in. So just figure this a moment - you invest in something to that tune with the hope that you have the car long enough to pay it back. Sounds reasonable, doesn't it ? What possibly could go wrong ? Well everything! First, what says that you'll complete the 20k miles in the car to pay the conversion back and not be swayed by something else ? Average car ownership in this country is about 2.5 years. So if you are average, you need to not only complete 20k miles in that time, but to make it worth your while and state that you have made a saving, you need to do 40k miles. Otherwise, what's the point of conversion for the saving of a few hundred quid over 2 or 3 years. Second, people with these conversions start then justifying trips they can now make but wouldn't be able to with a pure petrol motor, because of the fuel cost. Huh ? How does that work ? So you buy a frugal car and then do more miles for no reason, level the costs with the more expensive version and the good news about all of this.....you've traveled further for the same cost. What!?! Tell you what, why not just cut out unnecessary trips if fuel cost is the concern instead of burning more LPG to prove a point. Aaahhhhh......but that is exactly the point to prove. You've got £1500 to pay back. So if you use the car more, you pay it back quicker. Third, average car ownership takes on board that when dealing with 10 yr old motors, sometimes things go wrong and they croak. So you need to be 100% confident that your 10 yr old motor will see its 12/13th birthday. Well, how confident are you that this will happen ? Finally on this aspect, when you buy a car of a certain age, there is no forecast given that tells you what will go wrong under your watch. Sometimes, you get off lucky. Sometimes not. That's the beauty or headache of used cars. They sometimes play all OK, every day. Sometimes, there is an issue and this can be £1000 or whatever. So if we figure the maths here - you buy a petrol Scooby for £5000, for example, and add £1500 of LPG conversion, the money spent on the car is £6500. But actually is still worth £5000 as there is little support that shows LPG cars sell for more money. But no worries - the fuel will pay that back. Hahaha - not if the car goes bang 2nd month of ownership. Didn't stand a chance to get anything back and now you have a debt. Also, your trader / dealer warranty is now void as it is a modified motor, so no recourse there. But let's say it doesn't go bang and is merely a clutch or something repairable with a bit of value though to get it right. This motor is becoming a money pit with all the bills and the LPG conversion is not helping. You'd have been better off just leaving the LPG alone and running the motor for a while to see if it is trouble, then decide on the LPG. So when is the best time to convert then ? I don't know! The car isn't getting any younger and the mileage is growing. Perhaps there isn't a good time...just maybe. OK, so that's the finance bit. Safety side. Where do I start. Is it me or is there anything remotely insane about a highly pressurised canister sat 3 feet from your body in a motor that propels itself to 70+mph and could be hit by another motor of some speed ? I must be missing the plot. But it seems a good cocktail for some inferno - and it seems our channel tunnel people have picked up on this not allowing these conversions though on their trains. Personally, I think the LPG conversion should really be the last straw / the last ditch attempt to drive something interesting and keep costs down. Alternatives are trying to be a little lighter on the right foot and achieve a good mpg from a petrol version. Or perhaps choose a car that is economical from the outset. Yes, it may be a Euro box, but sometimes having cake and eating it may be a stretch too far. Just some biased views from me.

Yes, Subaru have really done a number on their model range now. So 5 years ago, you got Impreza and Legacy. Now they produce Impreza, WRX STi, Levorg & Legacy. As I understand, the Legacy has grown to huge dimensions and therefore, Subaru have decided it can't be sold here for whatever reason they have. But it is a monster of a size. The Levorg has taken over the Legacy spot here in the UK and is about the same size as the Legacy of 5 years ago. The WRX STi is on the same platform as the Levorg. The Impreza is a completely different platform and is smaller.

No worries chap about your original explanation. It's difficult enough to describe an issue. It does help the audience though a little when they have a clear picture. OK, it does sound like some oil "leakage" - "leakage used loosely in terms of what some of the others have posted. With your TT, you do have a myriad of exhaust pipework around the front due to being a sequential set up. Basically, it takes some time for pipe from the secondary turbo to heat up, given the set up, if you don't give it the beans and when you do move into secondary mode, there could be a whisper of vapour due to the pipe being cool, even though the car has been operating for some time. So I was just checking that this was not getting confused with the issue.

Sorry - not sure I follow your issue. Is the GTB OK when hot but when you pull away from somewhere when cold and warming up, this is when you see the smoke ? You may not have been able to see from the perspective you have presented - but does the smoke linger or is it just vapour and vanishes after a bit.

I do see what you are saying in both posts, Phillip. BTW - the Impreza is not one of these. Subaru, in their wisdom or maybe lack of wisdom, have dropped the Impreza name from this. The Impreza is a 5 door 1.6L cooking variety motor now. Nothing like the Impreza of old and nothing like these. I must admit that I have never owned a car with all these "intelligent" driving modes. I just used to get in and drive, like you. Why does anyone need these different modes ? So is this ringing with your view ? It's all a bit complicated really and unnecessary ? Well, I can see the point of this stuff now I have one. What the situation is that you don't get with the more simple / conventional set up, like in yours & my previous Scoobies, is the different throttle response. What you can do with this one is switch the throttle response from calm to aggressive when you need it. So why don't you need just one setting then ? Set it on aggressive all the time, leave it there ? The issue is that you won't get away with it in town traffic. It is too aggressive and for stop start traffic, it is too jerky and creates an uncomfortable journey. The issue is that as soon as you blip the throttle with a light touch, you are off at full pelt. Sitting in traffic crawling along, it is far too much and you can't physically give it less. So the switch to a more calm situation gives you the best for town crawling traffic. Once out on the twisties, you place it in sharp mode and the motor comes alive. But what is good, it comes more alive than a conventional throttle on older Scoobies. I guess what Subaru have built in is this ability to give the full beans on limited throttle and what this means is you get quicker response times. I can see its ability certainly in race situations as you want everything you operate in the car to be short and crisp (naturally, I am not condoning racing on the streets). People want short shift 'boxes, higher ratio steering to get better response from the motor. So this short throttle response is just another aid. From someone who wasn't really that converted to this - I am pleasantly surprised how quick you get the power on through limited throttle.

Yeap, absolutely agree with this. The technical side of this (which some of you know anyway) is to create a scavenging effect - effectively create a suction by trying to develop a vacuum through speed of flow through the pipe. So your exhaust system becomes an induction enhancer, effectively. You hear people talk about back pressure. Forget all of that. It is to create a suction effect. Going for a (for example) 6" bore does not increase performance and probably does either nothing or hampers the performance a little because when there is a huge volume of space with limited gas throughput, flow velocity slows. Speed of flow through the pipe is what you want and no 4 pot is going to generate enough of that (generally) on an extremely large bore. Great for sound (perhaps) - nothing for the scavenging. As for which bore is best - probably best to run with what Aucky said above and what Cobra has said. You would hope (and I would expect) that Cobra's engineers have tested this.

Great news! Obviously, there is a bit of work and time to pass before champagne corks are popping but it sounds like you have a good route to recovery there. Contrary to popular belief, there are a number of dealers and traders who will "do the right thing" because it is their rep on the line. I know a lot don't and they hope that today's bad news becomes tomorrow's chip wrapping stuff....basically goes away. But building a good rep takes years - destroying it takes minutes.

Yes, and like others have said, hopefully this all comes to a good solution quickly. But traders don't often shower themselves in glory when it comes to paying you back. Happy to receive the cash - different obstacle when paying out. The car is a good quality motor. It's also good money (as in a fair few thousand) and that would be some write down / off for the trader, temporarily whilst he has lost the sale and has a crock on the forecourt waiting for the service area to sort.. The obvious route to take would be to repair and hand back to the OP. This would probably be the cheaper way. Let's hope it all stays reasonable and friendly.

Yes, sorry - I meant consumer right act. Old habits and terminologies die hard.

OK, a few things here. Tidgy has covered one aspect. If you have any warranty with the sale - and garages should offer 3/6 months with the car - that is your backstop on this. The warranty company should cover anything major like this. It's not as if you have had the car for time or mileage for anyone to dispute the service record or how the car has been used etc. I presume it was serviced on sale ? But the route you should look at before warranty companies are involved is the recourse back to the trader, as Tidgy said. The issue with the warranty is that there are some conditions sometimes and they make the issue sound like it is more your fault, even though that would not be the case. But there could be some long discussions, that you don't really need. Through the sale of goods, or in this case - sale of dodgy goods - you have a better route and a faster route to repair. There are 3 levels:- First 30 days - no quibble by the trader to get the car fixed or you get your refund. 30 days to end of 6 months - trader has to prove to you the fault was not with the car before you bought it. 7th month to 1 year - you have to prove that the fault was there before you purchased the vehicle. As you can see, the longer you have the car after the sale, the more difficult it becomes. But I would say anyone going back with a blown engine or gearbox in month 8 is going to have a tough time to prove the fault was with the car 8 months previous. That is not your position. There could be a bit of fobbing off, however, the trader has to prove some things here. The ball is in his court to demonstrate that a low mileage motor never had this fault before he sold it. If the car had 141k miles, the proof for him to get out of this is easier as with that mileage, anything can happen quite quickly. But on a low miler of that value, one would expect a good quality motor to hold up better than 5 weeks. The law is on your side here. Remember that.

Welcome on board! I listed out some pros and cons 5 / 6 years ago about fresh import vs one residing here in the UK already on another forum. This list is not exhaustive but probably covers most points. Here are a few to think over:- Pros- Cars are graded and are generally in good condition. - You generally get what you pay for. Pay for a Grade 4/5 car, you get a top notch car.- The Japanese people don't drive them in the same way as we do. The cars are speed limited and mileage is minimal.- My experience from purchasing 2 grey imports from importers is that you could eat your dinner off the engine. Roast lamb - lovely - just mind the fat doesn't get on the drive belts!- Also my experience - I have covered 27k miles in 7.5 years in my RSK. Never been in any salt and is confined to summer driving only. The GTB we purchased this year is cleaner under the engine bay and reminded me of how my RSK was in early 2003 before the summer weather got to it. Yes - UK summer weather has tarnished all the alloy under the bonnet. - Also, the GTB still has lower mileage at 10 and a bit years old (10 of them in Japan) vs my RSK (4 yrs in Japan and 7.5 yrs here) even though I have only added 27k miles.- No salt/grit laid down on the roads in Japan.- The importer generally provides warranty cover for the first 3/6 months. Its value though - not known by me. Cons - You will pay more- Often no service history- Can be a gamble given neither you or importer know anything about the car.

Yes, the chassis fault is your VDC (Vehicle Dynamics Control). That's your anti skid system - basically, your traction control. There is a solenoid that is playing up. C0033 says Front Inlet Solenoid Valve LH Malfunction in VDC. Unfortunately, unless you are extremely lucky, eliminating the codes at the garage only fixes the symptom, not the cause and it is likely to come back again under provoked conditions.

John - no need for code readers. You have an on-board diagnostic set up on yours. Open the fusebox. Reach your hand in and feel around above and slightly to the left for the wiring loom. You'll find two white connectors taped to the loom. They each have a single wire. Connect them together (they're the only single pin connectors in the area, so don't worry about them not being the right ones). Now turn the ignition on and whilst the speedo/rev counter needles are doing their sweep, press the trip counter reset button once. The trip counter will now show engine fault codes (eg P0402) or P---- if there are none. If you press the trip counter reset button it'll show transmission fault codes, or P---- if there are none. If you press the trip counter reset button again it'll show chassis fault codes (eg C0042), or C---- if there are none. If you press it again, it'll go back to engine codes. When you're done, switch off the ignition, disconnect the connectors and tuck them up out of the way again. Edit - what i should have added - if you choose to do this, find the code and either post up on and here and I'll find it or search in google as there are plenty of guides on line to interpret these.

I am not saying there isn't a different tune in the UK, but the PS and BHP are different values for the same power. PS is the higher number (the lower denominator, if that makes sense). So 305PS = ~300BHP. So whether in the UK we have 305PS or 300PS - that is the bit I am not certain of. I think that you are right - it is 300PS here. It's the common old trick across the markets. We here in the UK use both but then one is close to the other but not exactly the same. I believe the US use a different value for HP. You guys in the Australasia area, isn't KW the power ?

Some really great stuff going on your car here. Really liking this thread! The black surrounded vents and the red stars have caught my eye, for sure. Great piccie there in Kent with the background.

Sorry - my last comment in my last post was tongue in cheek but didn't place up a smilie. I wasn't having a pop at the economy stats on a performance forum with sincerity - it was in satire. Actually, economy is a hooooge gamble for a lot of people and should sit in threads like this. Agreed, no one buys a Scooby for the economy. But I bet not one person on this forum doesn't take a peek at their fuel economy every so often or count up how much fuel they have spent out in the last week / month. It might not be a concern or a priority to address - but we all have in our minds what we spend on fuel. It does though become a priority when the car starts becoming a bit too expensive. It's usually the reason for it going up for sale. For every £1 where I saw someone say the Scooby has got to go because I am now having to use it more and need something more frugal, I would have a few bob in the bank now It becomes more key for people like me to see if I can run a performance motor as a daily, rather than a garage queen and substituting the Scooby with something else as the daily. I've just clocked up 3,200 miles since I bought it in early November. I can't see that distance abating. So I do need to get 30mpg otherwise I become a slave to Shell garages. Yes, some great points posted there. I think you have got a more upmarket / premium version than mine as mine doesn't have things like auto wiper and lights. Sounds like quite a nice place to be, in yours.