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thanks for posting this - I was looking at doing the same with my 2025 Crosstrek - the SatNav data is dated "2022".

Hi, Just registered and checking in with the forum.... New to Subaru, new to the Crosstrek, and the first Brand New car I've owned.

Thank you Mr B, that's a depressingly long list of things that might sensibly be looked at. For the time being I can manage it by keeping a careful eye on the expansion bottle, the car is running very smoothly with no loss of performance. Now I must think about what to do and where the money will come from. Much as I like the car I think it might have to go to that great big car park in the sky.

Hi All, bought a used 07 legacy wagon and it was running great. They guy said it had been sitting a while but he started it with a jump and it ran for 20 minutes. I drove it home and a few times over the weekend, it started but seemed a bit weak on startup (understandable). The battery does look knackered tbf and the terminals are a bit corroded. I went to start this morning but key did nothing when i pressed the button (it was working) and when i put a jump pack on nothing at all happens on turning the ignition on. Is it likely the immobiliser won't turn off due to dead key fob battery? Would this prevent any life at all or just no starting?

Hello, I need help with this as ive just bought a subaru wagon and have a few oil leaks to tend to. This part in particular I cannot find anything on or for. 1998 Impreza non turbo wagon is what I have and it is leaking alot of oil and i want to replace it which i imagine is a gasket? Any help appreciated in naming said part.

Welcome, seen a few of these conversions, tis pretty cool 😄

nee bother 😄

Much appreciate your opinion and insights Judd.

Its a 150 and nice one too without too many bells and whistles, personally i prefer cloth to leather. A 200 would have the V8 Diesel (the petrols listed are gery imports)and would typically be priced around that figure at 12 years old with 130k on the clock, lovely motor but for goodness sake. The one you've listed it would be interesting to know why its had 2 owners, might have been a demo, sometimes even the change of personal plate can come up as an ownership change, it looks in very good condition and unless something other than 2 owners is a cause for concern it would be one i'd be looking at, seems reasonably priced but there should be some room for wriggle in a private sale, in many ways i prefer a private sale because you get to see the previous owner and judge for yourself what the car has been through. After 2020 (from memory) they did various modifications to the engine, as you can see from one of the dash pics its got a manual DPF regen button which earlier models didn't get, though it shouldn't be needed because they've pretty well sorted earlier DPF issues by then, later ones like that 2022 model they've ironed out all the quirks. Remember the first place you go when looking at any LC underneath, that one looks clean enough to eat your dinner off any surface, it might be worth asking the seller if he'll take some random pics from underneath to send to you. 3ish years old, keep it serviced at Toyota you've got another 6 or 7 years makers warranty on all the important bits. Get your overalls on and get rustproofing you could have this or similar for umpteen years with only regular servicing and friction materials/tyre replacement (tyres are big and usually last between 40 and 50k) and when you decide to sell on LC enthusiasts will be beating a path to your door if its a genuine rust free example, the very high spec models tend to come with rear air suspension, which is great while it works but with the height sensors underneath unless you keep them protected can fail expensively,also the air pump isn't cheap, many high spec vehicles are retro fitted with steel springs and appropriate shocks via a kit as they age.

It highly likely head gasket the issue, check some basics such as water pump and thermostat housing/hoses for leaks and also radiator and turbo cooling lines (visible coloured staining marks left from antifreeze) You can use chemical test kits detect combustion gases in cooling system (we use gas analyser over rad filler neck) It done some miles and to be honest I wouldn't want do just gaskets at that mileage, bearing shells, all new seals, new oil pump , new rings/pistons and valve overhual tends be best way forward but you could indeed do just head gasket and basic head overhaul if the short block seems decent enough and assemble with new water pump and quality japan timing kit (ICP do these at sensible money) Good parts and good effort won't be that cheap & at this mileage further issues could crop up from fatigued engine stressed from the poor cooling/overheating .

Thanks for that info Judd and I will check out the forums too. I've been looking at something a bit like this one https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202505052055417?sort=price-desc&searchId=3ad54a54-2151-4185-8be2-d501efa62a98&advertising-location=at_cars&fuel-type=Diesel&make=Toyota&maximum-mileage=60000&model=Land Cruiser&page=4&postcode=DL12 0QY&year-from=2020&year-to=2024&fromsra Is that the 150 or 200 series? I'd not go for that one (too many owners for the age and it's a private sale, etc.) , just using it as an example. The invincible models seems to attract a hefty mark up - worth it? (I hope you're going to say no :) ) More choice with the Active trim too. Hardly any Icons trims. I like the utility version, but I don't think I'd convince my partner, with just 2 seats, as she's super sociable !

Hi new to the forum, recently purchased a year 2000, legacy be5 twin turbo. Basically I took the intake manifold off and disconnected the vacuum pipe just to give everything a general tidy and to more sure the rubber boots on my intake pipes weren’t too badly damaged, I put everything back together again and I’m getting the car to turn over but not wanting to fire, at all. And as if I didn’t think that was bad enough the strangest thing happened next, when I would take the key out of the ignition all dash light would turn on and the cars fan would run resulting in having to disconnect the Barry to get them to turn off. Can anybody at all help me in the right direction as I’m totally lost at this point or does anyone have wiring/vacuum diagrams for engine bay any help out there 🤞

My 07 Forester has the EJ255 engine, 2.5l 16 valve turbo, on the way home a few days ago the temperature gauge shot up to the maximum. I limped the last few miles home, next morning the only obvious issue was a very low coolant level in the expansion chamber. I topped it up, everything is fine; no leaks, no clouds of steam or white smoke, engine smooth and pulling well BUT in a little less that 100 miles the expansion chamber level had gone from full to nearly empty, so where is the fluid going? The car had no service history when I bought it 3 years ago, it had barely moved in 3 years, it's done 173000 miles. If the gasket is failing it would be daft not to do timing belt, plugs, pulleys etc etc at the same time, US sites suggest parts and labour at $3000 to $4000 dollars. Does anyone have any idea what the UK cost might be?, or where there is a good aftermarket specialist who might look at it?

Hi, I have a 2lt EJ20 fitted to my 1975 VW camper, so am looking to learn a little about Subaru Engines, as they are certainly at another level when considering the original 1975 German technology. Wishing you all well FB

Nice one. Thank you.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/356501482291?chn=ps&_ul=GB&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1AeTz3EB-TG6vInlHckmmPQ30&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=356501482291&targetid=2407181292471&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9044966&poi=&campaignid=21690875706&mkgroupid=177083931598&rlsatarget=pla-2407181292471&abcId=10027099&merchantid=101726169&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=21690875706&gclid=CjwKCAjw3rnCBhBxEiwArN0QE_Nlgbq262r6q_3Bf2BcpaxYdo-tpslXUsUXNYks734wpQ6B_6GFtxoCtOwQAvD_BwE yeah jack/tool kit holder

looks too short for that, let me speak to the garage tomorrow and see if hers has one like it.

It came with a spare…… I saw somewhere that it could be an umbrella??

Just bought a 2012 outback 2 l diesel estate awd. Always wanted one and it’s not disappointed me. It’s got roof rails. What roof rails are best to get probably going to put roof box and bikes on it. It’s got road tyres on it. I like bf Goodrich all terrain tyres and wondered which size would be best. I have a boat to tow

looks possibly the shape of a jack? did it come witha can of foam instead of a spare? If my wifes was here i could have a look, but its up at the garage.

Hi, just bought a 2006 Forester xe and lifted the boot carpet and it revealed so empty spaces. i just wondered what went in them so I can try and replace them. thanks

I have a 20 year old (prado sized) Landcruiser 120 LC5, been running full size Toyota 4x4s since the mid 90s and have yet to be let down by one, alternator packed up on the present steed a few years ago but she still never failed to proceed and i stuck a recon on for £126 ish, it'll probably still be going when they plant me. Underbody mainly chassis corrosion is what kills them in Britain, especially if they've previously lived in Scotland, mine is still mainly rust free because i plaster the undersides in ACF50/chain lube/marine grease every year, filthy job but worth doing, looking at MOT histories of other 120s and the very similar later 150s underbody corrosion features too often on the usual stuff, inner sills are also exposed to the elements and the rear axle casing will rot too, rear aircon pipes are alloy which again corrodes and is an expensive re-piping exercise, ask me how i know this. If you decide to get a late 150 series suggest you check it very carefully underneath and start rustproofing the day you get it home, other than rust they are good vehicles which seldom cause any issues if the servicing is kept up, seriously expensive used now and only going one way, the prices being asked for the V8 engined 200 series can only be described as ludicrous and whilst its a great vehicle its very technical too and also suffers the underbody tin worm issues which also affects the pipework of the hydraulic suspension which can cost serious money to repair, again mucho greasing and oiling is called for. Servicing is simple enough for most things DIY, but remember Toyota warranty is topped up every year if you get it serviced by them up to 10 years of age. I'm on both the UK Landcruiser forums, both of which are quiet because rarely do these vehicles go wrong, most common faults will be on the forums if you care to have a poke nose. Probably like yourself i'm not having a battery car, not in the least interested, good luck to all those who can take advantage of the tax breaks and cheap overnight home charging, i don't blame you one bit the cynic in me wonders how many would be in use if BIK tax rates were same as ICE cars and fuel duties were added to electricity charges, just wish the battery enthusiasts weren't quite so smug about it all. Course if you've got the money it makes good sense to grab one of the last proper Outbacks, then enjoy sticking two fingers up to the battery car scam and all its profiteers and political gamers for many years to come.

I recently spoke to a member of the sales staff at a UK Subaru dealership who informed me that as of the end of this year there will be no more new Subaru Outbacks (petrol) sold in the UK. There will be an electric option (yeah, well yipppeeee :( ). Don't you just adore the Great Global Climate Catastrophe Hoax supporters and their desperate ideological attempts to completely donald duck the whole car industry and empty fun and choice out of everyone'a lives . Now I'm not sure if I should try and time it so I buy one of the last ones, or just buy a Toyota Land cruiser (not the recent model!). Can't seem to see much else on the market that has above average car ground clearance, and permanent 4x4 functionality.