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Hi Forum I am getting ready to sell my Sti that I have been fixing up this year it has had over 8k spent on it and it is still needs a little more TLC to get it 100%. I planned to put this in the garage with my Integrale but my circumstances have changed and I need to sell. 110,000miles approx I plan to sell her with 12months MOT but I need to get a new steering rack and replace the gearbox drive shaft seals. It has 4k worth of brakes alone. I am looking for 16k with the MOT but I would take 15k to save me the bother. It needs- New front wings Better bonnet Better bootlid Alloys refurbed Steering rack pipes Drive shaft oil seals Heat shields I have done loads of work on this car this year and and all the difficult work has been done, there is not a single siezed nut or bolt on the entire car, the car has no rot and all surface corrosion has been treated. It has a heated front windscreen that needs wiring up. This car is 100% standard and has had new parts wherever they were needed. PPP parts all present but no certificate. Car is in Manchester viewing welcome. I had the inlet manifold blasted and I do not paint engine components as it just comes off and my local ceramic coater relocated to Scotland. Engine is sweet.

I am reluctantly selling my 2006 STI due to it failing MoT on rear end rot. (Turrets, inner sill trailing arm body mount area) Engine, gearbox and running gear all absolutely good, interior all good, genuine STI wheels in need of some TLC. If you can weld and are prepared to take on these repairs, you would have a cracking car. 106K miles, new timing belt last June, new discs on front and I have a set of new rear discs which I haven't put on yet but you are welcome to. It drives really well. Only mods I have done is to add a sports catalyst and replaced the radiator with Mishimoto aluminium one. I am open to offers, ideally from someone who will keep this car on the road. Sorry, I haven't washed it prior to taking these pics. Macclesfield area. Happy to answer any questions if you need more info.

Hi just need a door wiring diagram for legacy be5 window motor and routing, car was badly put together by previous owner and am trying to re route things as best I can. Thanks Sean

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Hi Please excuse me i am very new to a forum how do I pm you. (I have seen one I am really keen to talk to somebody in the know) Be good to have a chat. Guru it not Robert

I mention buddget as it will define whats the best route to go, 22b's can be had for 250-300k, S204 hawk about 40k, a fully rebuilt/resprayed/refreshed classic sti around 30-40k, or a top qulity 22b replica for 60k upwards depending on spec. Thats the thing with it, budget will really define what you go for, by all means drop me a PM if you want to have a natter, i've been around them a long time, although i wouldnt say im a guru haha

Hi budget is not a problem. Like I say I want a really special one I can keep and cherish. Im so so confused with all type r type ra type ra 555 type c pro drive its endless. Think i need a guru to chat with. All I know is i really want one.

Welcome, tbh it will really depend on budget. I doubt you'll find a decent classic sti without rot for under 20k now adays, do you have a budget in mind?

Hi everyone I hope you are all okay? So long story short.... I have always wanted a subaru.. I have been looking and looking and cant really decide. Really like the 1999 wrx sti Really like the blob eye 04 ish Then I have seen rare models Im totally confused and need help. I have been to see a few imported sti 1999s and a 99 type r all with rot in diferent places even tho advertised as fresh imports with no rot and rust. I would love to have a chat with a subaru "guru" Feel like i need some decent guidance. I want to end up with the best one I can find, one I can cherish and keep and enjoy. I have a heated garage ready and waiting. The more I look the more I fancy an investment peice buy one I can use and cherish possibly a rare model Help please Regards Rob

IIRC the plastic front is clipped into the housing, so once cluster removed can just unclip the clear front

How are these clusters dismantled to replace engine warning light LED ? Either that or the ECU has been messed with to hide glow plug issues.

Could someone please post the correct serial numbers for the glow plugs , again for a 2012 Legacy.

I found the best way was just to convert the wife to them, picked up her forester after a rebuild today hahaha

Hello all, Got myself a slightly damaged Subaru forester s turbo, bit of a bump on the front end, it's a motor I've always fancied but not had the space or need for, well now I have one 😄, still don't have the space or need but the want won out.

Good morning, Thieves recently broke into my Forester STI and stole the tailgate. I've sourced another tailgate plus struts and wiring looms but can't find a high level spoiler with light. Has anyone got any suggestions apart from ebay where I may be able to get one please? Regards, Phil2.

Just to update I have now removed and cleaned the calipers and brakes. I fitted new pads and cleaned up all the burs and imperfections till they fitted perfectly. Greased them with LiquiMoly ceramic grease and the front pads at least are now functional. Slider pins are great too. I'll do the rear pads tomorrow to complete the brake rebuild. I'm more interested in the high MAF reading but it maybe a red herring? what MAF reading does anyone else have on a 2012 EE20Z engine in the 2 litre variant? If yours matches mine at around 8 G/S then I'm happy. However if yours is at 2 to 2.5 then I'm looking at a faulty MAF or a vacuum leak? I'm a home mechanic and these are my personal vehicles but the next logical step is a smoke machine to see if there's any vacuum leaks I guess? Any advice will be much appreciated? It's an EE20Z engine and I'm very cautious I don't deliver any engine issues by not addressing the basics?

I am troubleshooting a Subaru 2012 Outback 2 litre diesel. If I do a motorway journey for more than 30 minutes the engine runs rough and is almost at the point it stalls. I am looking at the MAF reading which is around 8GS at idle. Is this too high? The vehicle had been off the road for some time and bought by a student who did some repairs on his own. I've cleaned the MAF sensor but the overall indication from my Autel 808 Pro is that it sits around 8G/S at Idle. What should it read at idle? AI on Google says it should be around 2 to 2.5 G/S. I have no DTC codes and the history here is that oil dilution triggered a protective mode on the DPF hence my initial work around getting the DPF cleaned and functional. I cleaned the DPF with Wynns EGF/DPF cleaner and after a few cans, all sorts of horrors came out and I was able to do a DPF forced regen from the Autel (even more horrors came out). That worked great and my differential pressure between DPF in and out is 1. I've tried cleaning the throttle body housing on the car but am close to removing it for a deeper clean just to eliminate that! On a motorway journey it runs rough after about 30 minutes of hard motorway driving. Just to cloud the issue though the chap that owned it before did the brakes himself but hammered them in and I found the inner pads ceased in the brake carrier with slider pins ceased and not behaving well either. I know there's a lot of info here but would the load applied to the ceased brakes cause the engine to struggle? At 80 MPH on the motorway the brakes would swell up with heat? Bind and cause a load on the engine. IS my MAF reading too high? I've already done the celebrity pipe to the intercooler from the low side/throttle body to intercooler?

the pipe is for the blowoff valve and yes you'll need it, looks like its for a a turbosmart style one, normaly they have an adaptor that gets bolted on, but this looks like it has a perminent fixed one. this is the adaptor, https://jdmaccessories.com.au/product/23650/ts-0205-2051-turbosmart-bov-adapter-kit-wrx-1999-00

I have a 1999 Subaru Impreza Turbo 2000, the intercooler has a lot of bent fins so I’ve bought a replacement. Everything lines up the same on the new one except there’s one pipe missing and I’m not sure if it’s important or if I can just blank it off. the front right pipe looks the same but it doesn’t have a spot for the smaller tube to go onto it like the original, is that a problem?

Looking for catback Blitz Nur Spec R exhuast for my type UK Blob. Seems to be out of stock on scoobyworld....

No probs, sorry to be the bearer if bad news

Thought that might be the response. Its such a shame as its a beautiful car (less the rust). Thank you

@macadder did you manage to get this issue sorted?

the bad news is if its got rust then its not gonna be worth much and the cost of repairing it will never be covered by the sale value. You could try a specialist breaker company.