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Posted

Very easy & new drop links from BluePrint or Solid Ace are not expensive .

above brands are about £20 each & you should be able get them for that if shop around local motorfactors or try Amazon, they very good quality parts, you can get cheaper such as First Line at about £13 but won't last as long & the quality drop can be seen & felt during fitting.

2 nuts on each link, best giving squirt of penetrating oil before doing job but generally no real hassle. If nuts & rod a real corroded mess then either need split the nuts off or carefully cut at base of nut & through threaded rod.

Link below of BluePrint replacement & has pic of part in question ...

http://www.yoyopart.com/oem/1977047/blueprint-ads78504.html

Posted

Is it just a matter of removing old ones and slotting new ones straight in, or will there be any pressure/ load from Arb or the wishbone?

Posted

If car sitting level no, if you jacked one side up then yes.

If you need lift car to do job then lift both sides same.

You may find just a little load when remove first joint but that nothing that can not be controlled & pulled in line by hand for refitting.

Posted

Just about to do mine, anyone know the correct torque valuse for the nuts ?

On your SF with the figure 8 plastic/duralon drop links the bolt torque is 24ft/lb on my online data manual.

Posted

Cheers, what any idea what that is in newton meters, don't have a torque rench that does foot lbs ? Gone for some uprated polly ones [emoji16] hopefully that dreadful clunking will dissappear

Posted

32-33 N*m

Polly ones can be good but some have habit of squeaking

Final torque of nuts should be done with vehicle sat level & under its own weight.

Posted

Thanks well whoever put them on last time obviously murdered them up so out with the penetrating spray for a good soak and a cup of tea

Posted

Cheers, what any idea what that is in newton meters, don't have a torque rench that does foot lbs ? Gone for some uprated polly ones [emoji16] hopefully that dreadful clunking will dissappear

If you mean clunking when accelerating or slowing down in my case it was rear one.
Posted

Deffo the front at low speeds on lock, can't be the struts or tops as all new. The rears are getting some after Christmas

Posted

Drop links delivered this morning. A quick wire brushing a spray of wd40, both sides changed in 30 mins

Didn't have to jack it up or remove wheels.

RESULT

Oh, and no more clunking

Posted

[emoji16] I did my fronts Sunday just a bit of an issue with freeing them off as were a bit seized on one side, just ordered a set of whiteline rear links today

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