savage bulldogs Posted January 4, 2015 Share Posted January 4, 2015 I think some people use "actuated boost" to run engine's in but I've never had to use it myself ,so wouldn't like to say if it's 100% safe to run it that way for a long time (maybe just stay off boost until it's sorted) As for a uprated map sensor my97 onwards classic oe map sensors are good for 1.5 or 1.7 bar and much cheaper than a 3 bar aftermarket one,standard subaru turbo's and engines are only good for about 1.4 bar anyways Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miles2102 Posted January 28, 2015 Author Share Posted January 28, 2015 It's been a while but I thought I would update the little info I have. I took the wrx to be looked at by the kind gents at autotecnica down my way who kindly pointed out numerous oil and water leaks(all bearing no relevance to the actual running of the car though). Since then I've changed the engine for a good running engine which went like a train. Slapped it in mine and hey presto........still runs like cr@p! I can only presume that the wiring to ecu etc is damaged or something. The issues I'm having is still the icv but also when the idle drops I hear a click inside the car which then makes the boost solenoid click which raises revs?? I'm sure I have a devil car it's driving me mad! I tried different ecu, maf, icv, all new coils and plugs, air filter is brand new. Any suggestions before I drive it off a cliff. I also get get code 45 now too which I cleared but still crops back up when idling or driving below 2k revs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan skid Posted February 1, 2015 Share Posted February 1, 2015 Hi mate, do u have access to a soldering iron and about 18 inches of thin gauged wire? Speaker wire would probably suffice. (Granted this may sound like a bit of a neanderthal method of fixing it but trust me, it works.) Remove your clocks, find the printed circuit that you said has blown, strip a small amount of insulation from the fine/speaker wire, solder it to the damaged printed circuit WITHOUT damaging the plastic it's stuck to, then crimp a small electrical ring to the other end of your new earth wire (or wrap some of its bared wire around a bolt/screw) and bolt the ring to an existing part of the cars metal structure. I ran it to a bolt that holds part of the dash, next to the bonnet release catch. This was a fix I did when I got my car, it was apparant that it had an earth problem. It would idle really low on the verge of stall every time I stopped at light or a roundabout, when I indicated either way it would flash both green arrows on the dash as if I had the hazards on, if I pressed the brakes whilst indicating then the indicators would flash fat as if there was a bulb out. It would also stutter/miss slightly every time I revved the engine in neutral or with the clutch dipped. Anyway, this fixed my problem. I can't guarantee that It's going to fix your problem but I'd definately try it. If you get stuck then message me (I'm new to forums so not down with how to contact you privately lol) and Il give you my mobile number and walk you through it. I hope this helps you! Let me know either way. Dan. It's been a while but I thought I would update the little info I have. I took the wrx to be looked at by the kind gents at autotecnica down my way who kindly pointed out numerous oil and water leaks(all bearing no relevance to the actual running of the car though). Since then I've changed the engine for a good running engine which went like a train. Slapped it in mine and hey presto........still runs like cr@p! I can only presume that the wiring to ecu etc is damaged or something. The issues I'm having is still the icv but also when the idle drops I hear a click inside the car which then makes the boost solenoid click which raises revs?? I'm sure I have a devil car it's driving me mad! I tried different ecu, maf, icv, all new coils and plugs, air filter is brand new. Any suggestions before I drive it off a cliff. I also get get code 45 now too which I cleared but still crops back up when idling or driving below 2k revs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miles2102 Posted February 1, 2015 Author Share Posted February 1, 2015 Hi mate cheers for the info, I've just replaced the circuit board on the back of the clocks with one from a spare I have knocking about so iv just got to fit it back in and see what happens, to be honest it's running tons better since I changed the ecu, I don't get any running issues at all but it still chucks the code up so hopefully this might be just what's needed to sort it, if not I suppose I'm back to the drawing board haha. Cheers for the info pal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan skid Posted February 1, 2015 Share Posted February 1, 2015 That's even better if you have a spare kicking about! I still get code 24 on my v3 wrx sti but I have no real problems anymore. Occasionally I get a low idle if when I've been driving for a while and come to a stop. Only happens now and again. The problem I have is that when I bought the car it also had a boost leak which took me a while to find, turned out to be a hole in a hard fmic pipe! It then ran great and gave me 1.3 bar quite quickly! I've since had a load of parts out to clean them, paint bits, tidy the engine bay up a little. Now I only get just over 0.9 at best and the car feels slow compared to what it was. I can only just keep with a standard astra vxr from a rolling start!! Embarrassing as he'll! Considering when it was at 1.3 bar I was abusing my mate in his 300+ vxr! Got sick of looking for the problem so just thought balls to it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miles2102 Posted February 1, 2015 Author Share Posted February 1, 2015 Mine overboost like mad then hits fuel cut, I've had it on actuated boost for about 6 weeks at 0.5bar. Piped it all back up now but still overboost so till I find the funds to have it looked at I'm going to get a manual boost controller and hopefully be able to control the boost a bit better, whether that will actually work I'm not sure but I'm sure someone on here will let me know. I'm gonna pop the clocks back in about half hour when I can be bothered getting off the sofa haha. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miles2102 Posted February 1, 2015 Author Share Posted February 1, 2015 My cel comes on for code 24 on overrun at low revs but if I dip the clutch and let the revs go below 900rpm it goes off so my driving styles changed until I figure it out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan skid Posted February 1, 2015 Share Posted February 1, 2015 Mine doesn't throw the cel light for the code, I only know about the code when I connect the plugs under the dash. I clear the code then it's fine for a while. Check it a day later and it's still not back, check it a week or 2 later and it's back! Pain! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miles2102 Posted February 9, 2015 Author Share Posted February 9, 2015 Purchased some new clocks and seems to have helped dramatically,I still get the cel but not half as much as I used to. Obviously there's still an issue so il shall plod on and somehow figure out where the he'll this code is coming from. I van only presume it's a wiring issue of some form because if I've changed the engine and ecu and I'm still getting the same fault then somethings not right somewhere Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miles2102 Posted February 26, 2015 Author Share Posted February 26, 2015 Cel lights finally gone!!! Turns out once my speedo cable was attatched and ecu reset it's not come back! Winner! Although I do still have idle issues but one step at a time hey! Least that b@stard lights out (unless I've I've blown the bulb haha) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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