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code 24 icv will not go away argghhhh!


miles2102
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Hi guys new to the forum but hopefully you friendly guys will be able to head me in the right direction. I have replaced the icv and checked all hoses, they all seem fine, replaced coolant temp sensor,coil packs,spark plugs, new air filter. Only mods are full decat,hks induction kit and bailey bov. I'm not sure if this bares any relevance but the speedo cable is not connected to cluster and speedo needle is stuck at 160 mph, when it is connected it jumps about without giving an actual proper reading. Is there any other sensors that would throw up code 24? Thanks in advance

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Sorry I forgot to mention the running of the car. It idles ok but does hunt up and down but not a massive amount, if I start the car drive down my road it will run fine boosts etc but after that ifs not so great, eg. If I gradually build revs all the way it's fine but if I try and give it full throttle all at once it backs off and misses as soon as I hit boost

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Hi n welcome to soc mate.

Think the cam or crank sensor is on the same circuit as the speedo sensor so it might be worth checking the loom plugs ( big grey plugs behind the Battery and near the airbox) and any other plugs/earths are clean/wiring insulation not broken .

Has it been mapped for the decat? as fitting one without mapping could cause over boost which in turn will cause the fuel cut to kick in to stop it melting it's internals .

have you got a boost gauge if so what bar are you running?

What year and model is it ?

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It's a 94 wrx jap import,as far as I am aware it has not been remapped, I was planning a daughter board then remap after I've got over the wallet sting of Xmas haha. It does have a boost guage and hasn't gone over 0.9bar. On idle the vacuum side of the guage sits at around 55cm/hg (not sure if that is a good reading or not). It feels like it cuts fuel to be honest, if I drive on motorway and accelerate it backs off then goes then backs off if you get me?

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It will probably have a z4 ecu in which case 0.9 bar is about right but it sounds like a misfire/weak spark due to the other electric faults .

Or the ecu's cutting the fuel just before it overboosts (hence the stock boost reading).

Did you use heat 7 iridium plugs ?

Maybe try gapping them at 0.7 if so

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I'm pretty certain it's a v5 ecu on mine,I checked it recently. It did have bkr7eix plugs in but motor shop specs bkr6eix so my brother picked them instead although I told him to keep to what was in it. Would they need gapping or can they stay stock or changing?

I'm going to have a good check over tomorrow and see if there's anything sticking out like a sore thumb, it's definitely worse since changing temp sensor though for some reason, drives really bad all the time now and celebrate light comes on more frequently

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I had a quick nosey around last night and found the same thing. The one thing I did notice and am not sure if it matters is the v5 ecu seems to be used in the automatics and mines a manual? It's either had a manual box fitted and used to be an automatic or had the ecu changed

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Cheers for the help il let you know how I get on after today, I find it really frustrating when you scoure through forums for an answer then they don't leave the end results,I really do hope this is a topic I can end positively lol

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When you changed the icv did you make sure the gauze filter was intact that sits behind it and did you use a new gasket .

Spark plugs are normally gapped at 0.8 outta the box but most tend to under gap them 0.7 to insure the sparks not blown out by heavy boost .

Do you know if the replacement coilpacks are definitely ok .

Think your speedo should be mechanical driven so I'm a bit unsure why it's jumping around have you got wires poking out of the speedo sensor ? (Near the gearbox dipstick) check the black and white plugs coming from the gearbox while looking in that area

I had a misfire on my v1sti during a remap although it only missed when the mapper upped the boost over 1.2 bar.

Newage coilpack conversion resolved my issues but classic coilpacks should be good for at least 1 bar, if they're in good condition

Did find this link while trying to resolve mine

http://www.scoobynet.com/general-technical-10/946346-95-wrx-ra-hesitates-and-wont-rev-over-5-5k.html

have you got a bung for your exhaust if so try fitting it as it might help rule out overboosting

Or fit a vacuum pipe from actuator to turbo inlet and blank off the vacuum pipes you disconnect .

This should give "actuated" boost 0.5 bar to see if that stops the missing .

If you're near suffolk I've got plenty of spares (clocks, icv's classic coilpacks ect ) you could pop round and try switching a few bit's about .

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Thanks for the detailed reply, really useful info for me to look at today, I'm just about to put my scruffy clobber on and get cracking on it in a min. The coil packs are like new and came from a reputable breaker from up my way (manchester), they look brand new with very very minor markings where the end of spark meets coil pack. I was looking at newage coils next month just can't afford at the moment. Not sure on connections at the gearbox I will have a look today. I need to fit a bung asap because as much as I love the rumble it's definitely annoying the neighbours with me being up and out by 6am every morning lol. Yep I removed the diaphragm from behind the icv,it was a bit coked up but gave a thorough clean and replaced gasket with new one. You've gave me great info and lots to look at today, il let you know how I get on

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Just a quick update whilst I have a quick brew, I've had plugs out and made sure they're gapped at 0.7 although found ANOTHER faulty coil pack (definitely time for newage coils I think!) Bit still seems to work but obviously not helping matters just a bit chipped off under the rubber cover. I've fitted the vacuum pipe from actuator to turbo and blanked off accordingly as mentioned (seems fine under boost and generally runs a hell of a lot better ie no holding back,spluttering or nearly throwing me through the screen lol so I'm presuming that would suggest overboost or my v5 ecu only allowing 0.95bar before fuel cut?? Still throwing cel light up but goes once revs dip below 800 (only seems to come on when driving slow and not on boost). checked earths they seem ok and as far as the speedo goes connections look fine on gearbox but the speedo drive cable is quite loose on the box side.

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It still could be a electrical fault causing a weak spark which is being blown out by higher boost levels .

But I think the v5 ecu has the fuel cut set at 1 bar so it's looking like overboosting could be the culprit .

The v1&v2 map sensors only work till 1.2 bar as well so worth changing that for a v3 onwards one before mapping .

Cheapest option to reduce over boost would be ...

Fit a bung to reduce gass flow

Refit either the standard cat or sports cat .

You might get a boost solenoid code come up (due to the "actuated" boost trial) so reset the ecu once it's been plumbed back in .

Have you got a restrictor pill in the vacuum lines from the boost solenoid ?

As different size pills can reduce /increase boost and might be a option .

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I've not seen a restrictor pill in the vacuum lines but definitely something to consider soon, the steps you've mentioned to reduce overboost seem like the best option for me to be honest,I'd rather spend my money on making sure the car performs healthily before I throw cash at a remap etc. Like you mentioned I think it's worthwhile picking up the 3 bar map too. I think I'm just going to bite the bullet and pop it in for someone to diagnose otherwise the neighbours are going to hear some foul language soon lol. There's definitely still an issue somewhere.

One thing I did notice today is on the rear of the speedo cluster there is a like a laminated circuit board for all the dash lights etc, well one of the copper strips is burnt out, I tried to follow it but could really tell where it was for bit I do need to take it back out anyway to sort speedo drive out so il try and look again then. With jan being such a tight month do you think it is safe to run the car at 0.5bar with the link being left connected from actuator to turbo or is that solely for trial purposes?

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