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Forester 2.0 SG non Turbo 5 manual gearbox


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Hello folks have any of you taken the gearbox of your Forester yourself to change the clutch components,

I am in the process of doing mine but have hit a problem, every thing I can find is undone but the gearbox won't budge.

Have undone all the bolts I can see and at what appears to be the last is 2 nuts right at the bottom edge, but you cannot see the very bottom as it sits down in a cross member just above the steering rack I can see the **** plate which covers the ring gear that has 2 small bolts keeping it on the gearbox but they don't interfere which removal but because you cannot see that bit I don't know if there is a bolt down there.

So do any of you know, have watched a couple of videos on the inter web but they are all American and don't show much of the un bolting process so any ideas as I have been underneath I have pulled pushed lifted and pulled down and it won't break any seal it has created, it's the original clutch and done well for the mileage, am going to take a wide wood chissel to the grinder and see if I can persuade it to come apart.

So there's the question any ideas, are they an !Removed! to come apart when never been of since new, it's a 2003 by the way.

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Worth double checking all round for missed bolt.

They do hold a bit on the dowls & bottom long studs sometimes .

Download the service manual EU.pdf from link below & review gearbox removal, although not overly helpful it may give you some insight confidence in the job.

http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Forester/2003/

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Hi got plenty confidence in doing the job, it was my job for 25 years worked for Marchals Cambridge but never ever had a subaru in to pull the box off every single bolt is out that was visible and the 2 nuts on the bottom studs, I know you can get galvanic corrosion with the dissimilar metals I.e the alloy and the studs and bolts, just won't budge even had a 6 foot breaker bar between the bottom of the gearbox and the cross member just below it and it pulls the whole engine and gearbox against the engine mounts.

Like I say have pulled on it pushed on it left to righted it, ground the wood chissel this morning and have actually opened the top up by about 8mm gonna give it a real soak with some we 40 all round the joint see if it can work through.

Even phoned the local dealer and all they could say was try and get it here and we will have a go for you but labour would be in the region of about £600.

One thing have not tried yet which was a deal sealer on the old SD1 is to heat all around the joint and breaking the seal, trouble with that on the subaru is there is a load or wires all about it.

Think I might try jacking the front of the engine a little bit and the same with the back of the gearbox a bit see if gravity can break the seal at the bottom.

Regards Paul

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either you got fixings left at bottom or indeed it corrosion on bottom studs.

dowls can hold a bit (one either side at about 3 & 9 oclock)

try heating casing around lower studs if penetrating oil no help.

Had a few tight but alway budged with bit of prying near studs & box rocking.

Ideally want support front engine as will droop down at front as box weight taken off engine, also lifting engine at front a little eases removal & fitting as gives more direct line.

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Hi yeah no cross members under gearbox at all the back of the box is on a axle stand and got axle stand about half inch of the front of the engine so when it does give up and break the engine will be on the stand as well, have lifted the engine now about 3" and definitely no fixing left the bottom ones are the studs the bolts and the 2 nuts are all of, talking to a subaru engine builder and tuning shop and the fella there has told me some can be an absolute ****** he has had it with an WRX that would not let go finally it went when he warmed it up a bit.

Said he had a couple of little heaters under the car for 3 days continuously heating then it finally let go so gonna give that a whirl and see what happens if it still won't play ball gonna take engine and box out together and split them on the bench, do valve clearence at same time then I think, does any of you fellas know if there s a good place to get rocker cover gaskets and the plug rubbers from or is it better from the dealer.

Paul

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I had this problem when doing my clutch.I had to remove the bar that slides in side the gearbox to hold the clutch fork.The shake the gearbox and bobs your uncle and fannys your aunt and all that lol.Ive done a clutch before on a Subaru jap import in 2000 and the gearbox was well heavy compared to the uk model

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I've had the same issue with The dowels at 3 & 9 o clock somtimes do corrode and stick to the ally on the box (as mr b said)

Also There's no mention of you removing the clutch fork shaft (as rick said)

You have to remove the allen key bung near the starter motor and withdraw the shaft with a 10 mm head size bolt (cam cover bolt) to release the thrust race bearing .

post-1399-142238475876_thumb.jpg

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Almost as heavy as a 6speed then and there not fun with axle stands [emoji4]

I didn't know there was a clutch set up difference between turbo and na .

Is that just the foz or is it a difference across the range ?

Furry dowels it is then [emoji4]

Soaked in wd40 overnight and wedging a flat paint scraper blade in the gap where I could and wiggling the box worked for me [emoji6]

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I didn't know there was a clutch set up difference between turbo and na .

Is that just the foz or is it a difference across the range ?

 

across the range.

pull type covers potentially have more pressure capability & retain desirable clutch pedal load effort.

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Yeah UK Forester non turbo, its only the turbo models that have the big pin through the box it was only on the turbos because the big power ones had a problem with throwing the arm of the locator if you dump the clutch to often same with the drive shafts on non turbo they are a good fit you just leaver them out of the box where on turbos they have a roll pin through shaft, gonna give it a go tomorrow got the heaters underneath getting it warm if still no joy will take engine and box out as one and do it on the bench.

Paul

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At the time I don't no.It was a drug dealers car I was working on.It had a little small roof on top the interior was black and the whole car was white with these big massive ariels hanging from both sides of the car at the back lol

Probably STI as those boxes tend be bit heavier.

might of just seemed that much bigger & heavier as u was stoned ! lol

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Yeah , I know a little bit about early imprezas bud, but I've never worked on any other subaru and I've got a 6 speed in my 94 sti .... but it came out of a 04 plate sti [emoji4]

As for the 6 speed Stub axle and split pin design it continues at least till the end of the bugeyes .

As my brvs 52 plate bug 6 speed was compatible with the existing classic shafts (stub axle set up).

But I had to use a stub axle conversion kit (from ipc) to change from the later 04 plate male driveshaft set up to suit my existing 94 sti (stub axle set up) [emoji6]

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^ Yeh could of been a 6 speed conversion but seemed unlikely back in 2000 when he doing clutch job, who knows :-S

Do you know weight of 6 speed box ? curious how much extra weight in that ...

Front drive shaft are bit of mixture on 2nd gen vehicles with female shaft with stubs & male shafts too, vary on model version & even model version year.

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Box is off, left the heaters on underneath last night went to it smorning didn't even need gloves nice and warm loud crack and away it came on the mating faces there was some kind of sealer, not like silicone but like lacquer the stuff cleaned of with a Stanley blade but it went every where no clue as to what is was and why it was there but what a ******.

Paul

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