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First Subaru (Forester)


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Looking at an option on a 98 Forester with 96K on the clock. The car itself looks ok, but would be good to know what areas I should be looking at. Am I correct in thinking the timing belt is about due for a change? Any idea on cost for that?

It would be good to know what else is likely to be coming up for replacement too. The reason I'm looking at this one is that I don't do a huge mileage 12k/yr so hope that I could get a few years out of it before it starts to cost too much money



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My Service book, it says cam belts are at 5yrs.

My Forester Sport (non Turbo) 2002 SF, had a change in 2007.. then again in May 2014.... at 38k miles!!!!

I've had it nearly three weeks now and just done over 40k





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belt should be reviewed on any previous history of when changed . cost of full quality belt kit & fitting (Dayco with oem idlers/tensioner) and fitting will be around £340 to £380

Area look at on old Fozzy is rear subframe corrosion, rear chassis corrosion, inner rear arch corrosion, rear brake line corrosion, saggy rear suspension, rear diff & gearbox noise, clutch operation & bite point .

The old SF forester are superb build but be fussy on what buy & check everything twice especially rear end corrosion as that can cost a lot repair right .

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Hi Mr B - Just referencing what you mentioned about bite point - I've noticed in my s-turbo that in first and second its very hard to get a non-clunky change. Seems to make a bit of a bumpy noise when it re-engages. Higher gears arent so bad. First gear is by far the worst. Only had the car a few days and just noticed it.

Other than that, its mint! Running .9 bar boost and she flies! Just had new fuel pump and full service. Cambelt was done at 85,000 in 2011, shes now at 120,000 so am I correct in thinking it should be done at about 135,000?


Thanks in advance

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@FozzySTurbo  I would look at getting your cambelt done within next year/18months but worth checking visual condition by removing covers, uk service is bit over keen, US & Oz do closer to 100k on the belt and it exactly same parts, main reason difference is need more competitive servicing figures for those regions .
As for clutch if bite point very high it maybe clutch dragging slightly, also could be worn syncros (common on turbos as higher rpm changes), If clutch seems poor might want get someone test drive it & give you an opinion. Worth changing gearbox fluid (75/90 castrol Syntrax) as that can help sometimes with syncros .

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