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Bad timing?


Martian
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Hi,

Just wondering if any of you technical guys can help me out?

I have had my car mapped, TD05, yellow injectors, walbro fuel pump, 3 bar map sensor, and newage coil packs.

Since then the idle has been off, when it first starts its nearly 2000 rpm and will sit there for a while, I blip the throttle and it will drop a bit, then about a minute later it will start hunting, unfortunately it does this even when driving.

This hunting makes it impossible to crawl in traffic with just a touch of throttle as in first and second it kangaroos.

It does it in every gear but obviously the higher gears its not as noticeable.

If i drive foot to the floor the car is fine, unfortunately I cant drive like that in traffic.

When I first got the car back home and noticed it I contacted the mapper who suggested an unseated injector seal, so I took them all out and greased the seals slightly and the problem did not go away however i felt it was a bit better, im not sure if that was a placebo effect or not though.

Is there anything else i can check whilst im chatting to the mapper? As this could possibly be either a mechanical fault or mapping fault and i would like to be able to say i have checked things before asking for a free fine tune and then finding out its actually something else.

Thanks

 

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Sounds just like mine did idle always up and down mine used to aid close to 2000 when cold then around 1000-1200 when warm but always up and down I changed anything then just lived with it unti I fitted my original ecu now it idle perfect with the alcatek and maffless my mapper didn't spend the time to get it spot on it can be time consuming for them but if it was fine before I'd be getting hold of the mapper


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On 12/26/2017 at 9:33 PM, Tidgy said:

did the mapper not look into it at the time? or did he just map it with the fault anyway?

No, the mapper did not look into it at the time, i dont think he noticed. I dont want to say too much as this is not a 'bash the mapper thread'.

But I remember being very let down with the amount of time spent on The first map this ESL board has had, and my first mapping experience.

I wasnt in the car and it was driven around a bit and then it was all over. No chats or anything about how i drive, what i use the car for. Nice guy, and helpful over text but bit of a let down experience wise.

I got the car there hours early to let it cool down, but as I was heading out they said it will be done soon, they had moved it up the queue ahead of someone still on the ramps having work done. So the car was hot from driving and there was no traffic on the road for him to crawl in and notice the kangarooing, that is if its not an air leak or something i haven't noticed.

On 12/27/2017 at 10:39 AM, Swino said:

Sounds just like mine did idle always up and down mine used to aid close to 2000 when cold then around 1000-1200 when warm but always up and down I changed anything then just lived with it unti I fitted my original ecu now it idle perfect with the alcatek and maffless my mapper didn't spend the time to get it spot on it can be time consuming for them but if it was fine before I'd be getting hold of the mapper

I am checking the pipes and lines this weekend and then im going to organise heading back over to get him to check it. This time I will make sure its cold before he starts, and i will drive with him in the passenger seat.

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Normally by the time the base map is on and idle is set the engines fairly warm anyways but it is possible to get a steady idle when not mapping from cold . As its a hr drive to my mapper and i don't have any hunting issues .

Don't get me wrong , I'm not starting a "my mappers better than yours" thread but just pointing out that a slight weap from a injector seal would change the afr . Any mapper would probably map around the fault as its not a obvious fault (especially if your injectors are new or recently cleaned/checked).

A proppa "smoke test" would be the best option to find any leaks in vac and intake pipework [emoji6]

Removal and cleaning the idle control valve could be worth a try , although if it idled fine on the old 380's i doubt it's the issue .

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