Jump to content

2.5XT P2016 Fault Code


Recommended Posts

Evening all and happy new year,

My 2.5 XT Forester has stood on the drive under a cover for the last few weeks.

Took the cover off the other day to start it up - Battery flat (almost).
Charged it up and started the car and let it warm up.

The engine light had come on and the cruise control light on the dash was slowly flashing.

Used my cheapo OBD scanner to reset the fault code.
Before doing do I made a note of the code.(see photo)
It read as follows:-

Intake manifold
Runner Position Sensor/Switch
Circuit Low Bank 1a

Took the car out today for a short run (25-30 miles) and on the way back the engine light and cruise control ights came on again.
Plugged in the scanner, read the fault code - exact same fault code and message - P2016.....

Can someone please advise on how to diagnose and verify whats wrong and how to fix please.

Thanks in advance.


Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

hi guys

Fixed the problem on my car so thought I'd add a bit more info in case it helps someone else with the same P2016 fault code.
In my case, even when the fault was present, the car seemed to run fine.

First thing for me was to realise that IMRC (Intake Manifold Runner Control) sensor is actually the TGV sensor (Tumble Generator Valve).

Next step was to confirm that Bank 1 is the UK drivers side.

Next step was to locate the TGV valve as I had no idea what it was!!!
Apologies in advance is this is a numpty explanation!!
Turns out that at the front and rear of each of the intake manifolds are sensors and motors.
Bank 1 has the motor at the front (near the radiator) with the TGV sensor being at the rear - near to the turbo (the most awkward one to get to!)

Tested/compared the values between the 2 TGV valves using FreeSSM and could see that Bank 1 was giving a higher voltage reading than Bank 2.

This article helped me in deciding that the TGV sensor was at fault.

Removing it was a real pain - just didn't seem to be enough room. (turbo mainly).
So removed the

  • the air box assembly
  • top crankcase ventilation hose which helped a lot and could then see the top bolt/screw
  • released all of the wiring harness/plugs from the inner wing.

There are 2 x 7mm hex head 'screws' with cross head slots (top/bottom) that hold the TGV in place.
Getting to the top one wasn't too bad (I used a tiny bit ratchet with a 7mm socket and an open ended 7mm spanner).
The bottom screw is tricky, you can't see it and I couldn't even feel it.
Used a magnetic mirror and torch to enable me to see the bottom screw and then used a 7mm ring spanner to undo the screw a tiny bit at a time. (7mm ratchet spanner would be better).

OK, so now I could now remove the TGV and for those of you who are not aware, it is spring loaded and under tension against the rod that runs through the inlet housing.
As I removed it, there was a distinctive 'click' as the TGV tension was released and it returned to it's default position.

Bought a used TGV from eBay part number 22633AA210


Fitting the replacement....TGV
As the TGV needs to be refitted whilst tensioned, the method is to offer it up to the housing with the screw holes 90 degrees to the left, align the housing spindle into the TGV and turn 90 degrees to the right aligning the screw holes.

Great, except that one of the pipes (the nearest big one -from the air inlet!) wont let you turn the TGV through 90 degrees, so no way to refit using that method!

This is what I came up with and it worked pretty well.

Took the copper earth wire (CPC) from a piece of 1.0mm twin and earth electrical cable and bent it to look like a staple to make it fit the TGV as shown in the pic.
With this I was able to pre-tension the TGV so that I didn't need to turn it through 90 degrees to get it to fit again. (Used hole in the TGV housing)
I attached a piece of strong thread to the new copper 'staple' so that I could pull it free once the TGV had engaged with the housing spindle again.
This worked a treat!

The remainder of the job was to refit the screws, connector, crankcase ventilation pipe, wiring harness and air box assembly.

Having a 7mm ratchet spanner would be a great help for this job.

Hope this helps.





  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

tgv sensor is same as the throttle position sensor so that makes sourcing them far easier/cheaper .

You can remove the tgv system which not a bad thing as they are common fault ...

Glad see you proper diagnosed and verified the fault and had a play on freessm .

Top job and staple trick looks effective :-) job jobbed .

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 years later...


Since this is propably pretty common problem, there´s some vital info here. first, the part number, the location of the part and good explanation on everything. I had no idea which one is which until I saw this thread.

  After changing the part my self, it was nice to se someone taking the same path, and there was nothing nice on that path! This has been the most frustrating fix in 15years I´ve had the car! After replacing a broken sensor I had the p2016 code again... Now I don´t know what is wrong. Did I install it correctly? Did I have correct amount of tension on the spring, Is there a problem with wiring.. I have a cheap code reader, Is there any difference on those, should I have the codes read at subaru dealer?

Thank´s anyway, this helped me to confirm I´m working on the right sensor. and nice solution on the spring- action!


Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Create New...