Jump to content

car will not start after cambelt change


Phillip1993
 Share

Recommended Posts


quick swap of non working coil to working coil bank will diagnose if coil or wiring.

Does seem bit unlikely have 2 dead coils after fitting belt but if had removed them and plugs during your working session or knocked wiring then more possible.
I've pulled a few coil on plug packs and had them not working on refitting as extra movement finishes off a dying pack, hard one explain customer when comes in without fault :-) pretty common for issues are packs but need verify fault before start shooting parts at it .

Had odder scenarios happen lol .

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, savage bulldogs said:

Does it smell of fuel a lot when cranking ?

Nipped a injector o ring, maybe ?

Tps and both temp sensors making a good connection?

Not adjusted the icv or tps , while stripping it down ?

Does it smell of fuel a lot when cranking ?  = yes but only out the back end and it is getting fuel today it almost started on first tern over but the will only fire on the odd occasion when repetitive cranking   

Nipped a injector o ring, maybe ? = never removed them 

Tps and both temp sensors making a good connection? checked my esl dater and temp today was 11c and tps was at 6.5 and when fully open 78.

Not adjusted the icv or tps , while stripping it down ? = both of these where not touched 

Thanks for your help btw 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No problem bud, i like to do things myself and have a soft spot for the early classics .

Have you tried leaving the plugs out for a long time , letting the fuel in the bores and on the plugs to evaporate.

Did you fit bigger injectors for the remap and did you plug the maf in when trying the oe ecu ?

As unless a lot of time is spent on the cold start map when running mafless , it could be flooding due to the colder denser air affecting manifold pressure .

Hope you suss it soon , it's starting to make my brain hurt

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 minutes ago, savage bulldogs said:

No problem bud, i like to do things myself and have a soft spot for the early classics .

Have you tried leaving the plugs out for a long time , letting the fuel in the bores and on the plugs to evaporate.

Did you fit bigger injectors for the remap and did you plug the maf in when trying the oe ecu ?

As unless a lot of time is spent on the cold start map when running mafless , it could be flooding due to the colder denser air affecting manifold pressure .

Hope you suss it soon , it's starting to make my brain hurt
 

still ruining a maf based map atm with the stranded injectors 

as for letting the plugs dry iv not yet so will pop them out tomorrow and leave it alone 

and so do i, i love the car and tbh it's way to different to any of the rest so dont want anything else 

and my brain has terned to mush haha

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 27/01/2018 at 6:50 PM, savage bulldogs said:

I only had esl on my v3 uk , so unsure if the v1/v2 is the same but i had switchable maps . When i disconnected the ecu it automatically switched to map 1 , had to depress the throttle to the floor then turn ignition on to switch back to map 2 .

Bit of a long shot that it has switchable maps or that if it has , that map2 is useless . No one local got a standard ecu to try to rule out a fried ecu .

Fuel pressure reg vac line ok? , a very weak fuel pressure might cause it to fuel cut /cut spark .

Can't think of much else atm , hopefully it's something simple and not lack of compression.

I assume if you've got a copy of the service manual, have you checked everything electrical it says to check regarding no spark when turning it over?

 

On 24/01/2018 at 7:16 PM, Mr B said:

I would check timing followed by sensors/wriing as pretty sure it cutting ignition once reads sensor correlation off .

hi guys been looking about and have read that the timing can be put out by the thickness of the head Gaskets, now iv used 1.6mm and was told this is standard for a 1993 wrx by icp so 2 question have come up can it put the timing out that much it wont start and is 1.6mm right 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ive seen idle issues , like hunting due to the wrong thickness headgasket but that was on a na golf . a compression test should rule out wrong gasket thickness though [emoji6]
150psi on all 4

Sent from my SM-G903F using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Think 140 to 170 is oe compression .

Strangely enough my mums nissan puke had the same symptoms today . Tried to start first turn of the key , then stalled and just cranks over . After talking to my brv , he had the same thing with his jap mx5 and it was a imobilizer issue .

So we tried her spare key which wouldn't unlock the car at but started the engine first time . I know you said the alarm wasn't operational on yours but its far too coincidental not to mention .

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share






×
×
  • Create New...




Forums


News


Membership