DODDY

REAR SHOCKS

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Hi,

New here so please be gentle!

Rear shocks have gone on the FORESTER. They have the self leveling attachment and the existing part No. is 20360 SA 111 Left Hand Side and 20360 SA 101 Right Hand Side.

Struggling to find replacement......what alternatives can I use, do I have to use the self leveling type or can I use non self leveling.

Cheers.

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KYB japan excel G and matching KYB springs (can get custom springs via springcoil.co.uk for special requirements.

Struts are £50 each , and pair of springs £80-90

when use non SLS struts you MUST use non SLS spring or ride height still be low as spring rates differ between SLS and non SLS

 

If want KYB part numbers/links give me year of forester/image of vehicle .

Parts are cheap and fitting very simple .

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Based on your part numbers

KYB rear left 334344 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Shock-Absorber-Single-fits-SUBARU-FORESTER-SG-2-0-Rear-Left-02-to-05-Damper/232563218743

KYB rear right 334345 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Shock-Absorber-Single-Handed-fits-SUBARU-FORESTER-SG-2-0-Rear-Right-02-to-05/232342269886

KYB rear springs RA6028 (pair) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-Kayaba-RA6028-Rear-Suspension-Coil-Springs-New/333277412361

You get 5% off buying the pair of struts so that about $95
The springs are £73 the pair
So that £168 all in
You probably need bump stops and rubber boots but KYB do that as a axle set for under £20 (KYB 910046) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Shock-Absorber-Dust-Cover-Kit-fits-SUBARU-IMPREZA-GGA-2-0-Rear-00-to-05-EJ205/233310065438


I been working on Subarus over 20yrs and we fit a lot of these KYB excel G shocks and springs and quality/fit/performance is perfect .
Cost great too, they cheaper online than via my local motorfactors on trade account .
We use partsinmotion a lot as have offices in Exeter so some locality to us .

 

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That is great information.

🙂

Why not get the springs from carpartsinmotion??

 

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^

Because I thinking of your wallet and getting you best prices

Currently can use the 15% ebaay coupon POLAR15 works with car parts in motion so that make shocks dirt cheap and springs about same as other cheaper option. (coupon ends 31st, you be mad not make most of this by adding all items to basket and using the code)

If do use carpartinmotion DO NOT supply them with vehicle reg or chassis number as they probably (99% likely) cancel order as your SLS model obviously not match to non SLS and they then assume wrongly it wrong parts .

I actually stock parts via them at times using ebay coupons as it really is that dirt cheap, cheaper than best trade price I can get locally .

KYB springs and shocks about best after market option you got and at these prices it almost free .

Handling stability in corners and smoothness to rear is massive improvement over faulty sagging rear struts .
Is a massive safety upgrade but amazingly if you sagging original sls struts not leaking oil they still pass a uk MOT 😕

 

labour time between 1 to 2hrs .
I normally fit these at fixed all in price and base on 1.5hrs

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Mr B,

Thanks for all the help .... so far  🙂

Parts are all ordered and will start work as soon as they arrive.

Any tips, what issues I may have etc.

Cheers.

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Not many issues have on that model .

If you not lifting both sides of rear to do work you would need unbolt a rear anti roll bar drop link at one fixing point for hub and lateral link move freely .
My top tip is remiove rear anti rool bar at one of fixing nut points on one side anyway as the extra movement make pulling and fitting strut back under arch tub and get the pinch bolts aligned far easier/quicker but if all the drop link nuts rusted mess you rather avoid you can skip that if both sides of rear off the ground while doing the work .

I would suggest spraying drop link bolt and the 2 big strut mounting pinch bolts and the C-clip for the brake hose with some wd40 day or 2 in advance of doing the job .

You can get to the top mount 3 12mm nuts via the plastic trim on top of the strut tub in the the boot, plastic pry tool with care will release the plastic prongs retaining it .

You will need a spring compressor to compress old unit and remove top hat and strut spring lower rubber insulator and bump stop and protective boot if reusing it . the bump stops are usually split and mashed on failed sls struts as been bottoming out and the £20 kyb protection kit has these parts for 2 struts .

you need the spring compressor compress new spring onto new strut too, lot of reports this amazingly dangerous, no it isn't lol, just position clamps with bit of thought and only compress spring down just enough get the oem 17mm nut caught a few threads on the strut rod .

I have impact gun so removing the nut and tightening nut on strut is never any bother, you may have some issues stopping strut rod rotating while loosening or tightening, on old strut you can use grips hold shaft, on new one you don't want damage the chrome rod, you can grind 2 flats on the top sides of a old socket so can use a wrench/adjustable wrench turn the socket and have access to the strut allen key socket through the socket drive hole or you may find a german style offset ring wrench fits down into recess of strut top mount onto the bolt (you understand this more when doing job)

This strut nut is 17mm external size (japan fixing DIN), the new ones supplied with new strut be 19mm so reuse originals as 17mm gives easier tool access and the quality is 2 grades better .

If you don't have a spring compressor you can get them on ebay for £10 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/KATSU-2PCS-Car-Coil-Spring-Compressor-Screws-370mm/273995484093

Springs only go one way round (has a top and bottom which hard get wrong 🙂 ) and try orientate them so sit in old rubber seating points neatly
Top mount has inner outer orientation so be sure fit these right, put a dab of paint/marker pen on top end of outer stud prior removal if you feel better doing so,

All becomes clear when you start doing the job and I may well be telling you how suck an egg as it pretty easy task once get stuck in, if you got half decent tools it be walk in the park as nothing technical or overly challenging .

other recommended procedure is measure rear ride height before and after work and consider wheel alignment check.

430mm to 455mm about normal, generally higher side of measure for brand new just fitted and low level of fuel and no other weight in car
Capture.jpg

 

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On 10/29/2019 at 6:39 PM, Mr B said:

^

Because I thinking of your wallet and getting you best prices

Currently can use the 15% ebaay coupon POLAR15 works with car parts in motion so that make shocks dirt cheap and springs about same as other cheaper option. (coupon ends 31st, you be mad not make most of this by adding all items to basket and using the code)

If do use carpartinmotion DO NOT supply them with vehicle reg or chassis number as they probably (99% likely) cancel order as your SLS model obviously not match to non SLS and they then assume wrongly it wrong parts .

I actually stock parts via them at times using ebay coupons as it really is that dirt cheap, cheaper than best trade price I can get locally .

KYB springs and shocks about best after market option you got and at these prices it almost free .

Handling stability in corners and smoothness to rear is massive improvement over faulty sagging rear struts .
Is a massive safety upgrade but amazingly if you sagging original sls struts not leaking oil they still pass a uk MOT 😕

 

labour time between 1 to 2hrs .
I normally fit these at fixed all in price and base on 1.5hrs

Hello, 

Where are you located in Devon? 

I would like to change my failed sls struts and looking for an experienced Subaru mechanic near to Paignton. 

Thanks 

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Hi,

All went well and both sides replaced in reasonable time.

The only thing that went a little !Removed! up was on the top mount....i snapped one of the studs while doing up one of the nut!!!!!!!!!!

Should I get a new top mount or should the two studs be sufficient.  😞

Not an abused Forester....gentle day to day short drives.

Cheers

 

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The studs on top mount are pressed in on splines, they knock out easy enough (off car they do anyway, have removed they to fit longer studs for lift block kits)
m10 10.9 bolt could be used as replacement but need be held while doing nut up .

They pretty strong bolts as standard, like 12.9 high tensile .
You must of been giving it the full beans.
subaru torque setting for those top mount to body stud nuts is 20N-m (15ft-lb) I snug um by hand on 1/4" ratchet mainly due access and don't fully remove top trim as saves time and keeps trim fixings A1 order .

I do it by feel, you know when torqued fastener out and you entering yeild (stretch/shear) territory ...

My main concern be you over tightened the other studs also if reefed them all good un tight thus is slight risk they stretched/weakened .

I seen cars that been driven for years with worse but obviously could never say it fine as good working practice, your safety and my liability means job needs doing right 😉

 

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