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What do i do now


Bouncer
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Had the mobile mechanic out this afternoon to check the brakes on the 98 sport (non turbo)...but he found a few horrors

There's a bad smell of dampness inside especially in the boot....while he had the o/s back wheel off, the brake nipple was seized so was going to bleed it from the pipe behind....it snapped at the bolt then broke away from the junction at the side of the tank.

He also showed me holes in the subframe, then noticed holes up inside the wheel arch (crumbled in his hands, other side's the same).....so

THIS time, I don't know whether to fix and use, sell as it is or take bits off and scrap the rest.....I know I was maybe going to do that with the turbo, but now after being shown all this, this IS a decider this time.....Jay, Gambit, Miggs....opinions please..

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If it was me and I had the room to have both around whilst I worked on them I would strip it and scrap the Shell

 

If you found that amount of rust in one place chances are it is in a few more places beside so to fix properly you are looking at a majority strip anyway

 

we'll be here as a place to vent your frustrations along the way ;)

 

with a bit of patience you could recover the caliper if you had to

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That is an issue - wrt the dash its a time vs money vs space issue, it is a pita but would be cost effective in the long run would give  you something pretty special but will mean taking up room.

 

Do you have space to store the bits once removed including the dash and getting rid of the Shell in the short term?

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I would have said the same as Jay in the 1st post :(

Is there anyway you can get the parts off the turbo and get the non turbo running again quick so it can be sold as a runner, like how you bought it. And sell the turbo as spares and repairs. Did you say it was tax and tested the non turbo or was that why you was in a rush to get it fixed, sorry I can't remember. I've sold 2 car's 1 was F@cked and got £480 guy fixed it up and it's now back on the road. He came and collect it in his flat bed the other guy picked up a X-type Jag that had some damage and Petrol pump had stopped working so was a non starter got £950 for that still think it was worth more but just wanted it sold. But anyway going off topic in typical fashion ;) That's what I would look at doing see if you could get a quick turn around and some money back to get another car. Or it's the breaking down route slower but would I think you would make your money back and more eventually. I know neither are ideal :(

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Personally I'd strip them down and try and plough the cash into something more solid, but that being said I have space and time so it's easy for me to think that way, I have never been a fan of welding cars, my mindset is if it's structural then I'd rather leave it and get something solid, it's a major part of a powerful car that's built light so other areas are getting the stresses before it was welded, again that's just my personal fear as it were, on the plus side at least you know what to look for on the next one

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I need to try and fix the back o/s brake pipe just to get it moving again, the mechanic I use cant come back till next tues so I was going get some pipe and the tool and try it myself. Either way, I'd need to pay him or buy the stuff (probably 6 and half a dozen) learn how to do it. I should have looked at it a lot better the day I went to see it, but that's my fault. I should also have realised when the dampness was so strong that something wasn't right, that alone should have made me look alot better and harder underneath......hindsight's a great thing (rolls eyes)

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Very true mate harsh but a lesson learned I guess. I know when I have bought car's I take them to my mates garage when he's not busy so we can get it up on his ramps so we can have a good look at it as you can't always see the horrors from just laying under it :( 

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i've done my own brake pipes in the past and it's dead easy, the brake pipe nuts can be bought from most places that sell car related items, you will need a brake flaring tool too, these can be picked up less than £20 last time i looked, also get a pipe cutter that will do the diameter of the brake pipe, you should be able to pick all the items up from the same place, brake pipe is usually the same thickness so that shouldn't be an issue, i bought a roll that did all the pipework on my mk2 golf for £15

 

just for example heres some codes from machine mart, type them into the search bar on the machine mart site

 

051215318 = cutter

040212935 = flaring tool

040215399 =flaring and cutter in one kit

 

these are numbers for eBay

 

271141390550 = brake pipe

220938051643 = brake pipe nut

 

all sizes are a guess as i don't know off the top of my head, the nuts are the first bits you need to get right as you will need the right size and thread for the subaru, once you have the size of them that should tell you what size pipe you need, you don't need a bending tool as it's quite easy to bend brake pipe by hand, all i would say is don't bend any creases into it or you will have to scrap that bit and start again, gentle flowing bends, take off the old pipe as best as you can and this will give you an idea of how to shape and where to bend the new pipe

 

PUT THE NUTS ON BEFORE YOU FLARE THE ENDS

 

any problems just ask

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cheers pal, it's nice to have someone help sometimes, i knew nothing about it until my pipe burst under heavy braking, my neighbour was an ex mechanic and he told me what i needed and how to do it so i'm just passing on the knowledge ;)

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Yea thanks Miggs that's a great post, really appreciated :)....but

That's only 1/4 of the dilemma, I need a subframe I also need welding up at the inside near the top off the back strut (both sides) as it crumbled in my hands yesterday. If I do get it fixed, I'll need to keep for a !Removed! long time (which I don't mind as I like it for it's originality) but at the same I really need to think about it and weigh things up just what to do

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cheers pal, it's nice to have someone help sometimes, i knew nothing about it until my pipe burst under heavy braking, my neighbour was an ex mechanic and he told me what i needed and how to do it so i'm just passing on the knowledge ;)

 

thats what it is all about - learn something pass it on :)

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Yea anything can be fixed, it's all down to cost and if they can afford it

Having said that, I found a rear subframe for 80 but I know it's still the carry on with rusted bolts and worn/buggered bushes getting it off, so would end up costing 100+ easy....that's IF I could do it. Then there's the welding at the top inside the arches near the strut mount, they're about 9-10" long and about 3-4" high...that's big !Removed! holes ffs...I took a couple of photos yesterday but they're crap as I couldn't get the right angle

What gets me is just how the fk it passed the mot last Feb...holes like don't happen in a couple months, no way!

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I would say they have a friend who does passes for extra money. I know a guy who will pass anything for £85 cash in hand. I've never used him I would rather know my car is safe. So I use a guy who's happy to still pass my car with no Cat on it, but will pull me up if it need's doing like all 4 tyres :D

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WhanI was younger back in the 90's I had a real rust heap of a mini Clubman that I had run into the ground, it was so bad you could reach through the floor in the boot and touch the pavement, also the exhaust leaked really badly and carbon monoxide filled the cab after about 20 mins of driving. Lastly the clutch was so bad you had to pump it like the brakes to get any presure to move the clutch. The car was a death trap so I took to a scrap yard for scraping.

2 weeks later saw it on the side of the road for £450 with a 6 month MOT!!!!

Uness they did a full resto that car didn't have ahope of passing, so they must have done a dodgey MOT for it to sell on. Hope no one bought it.

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