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brake master cylinder stopper install


stants
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Thought id post up a brief guide to installing a master cylinder stopper bracket to a first gen forester, principals the same as a classic impreza.

The purpose of the stopper is to eliminate the movement of the servo and cylinder/resevoir under heavy braking as the firewall isn't the thickest.

I ordered a tegiwa stopper as they seemes to have good feedback on the products.

When it turned up there were no instructions and only a couple of bolts. It's pretty straight forward.

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Tools i used for the job are

10mm socket

12mm socket

12mm spanner

Extension bar

This should take around 20 mins ! Provided all the fittings are the correct size, bare in mind this is a generic product so may not be.

First off on remove these two 10mm bolts that hold the boost solinoid and other electrical gubbins on

20131206_121415_zpsdbd47094.jpg

Just ease it to one side to give you more room. Behind this you will find two round stickers, ignore the one closest to the wing and peel back the other to reveal a threaded hole with a captive nut.

The long flat peice of the stopper will attach to this.

2nd stage is to unbolt the brake bias housing and the little carrier that its attached to.

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Directly behind the two white circles is a bolt with a 12mm head. I took the bolt out and eased the whole unit away from the tower and slide the main plate of the stopper behind it without removing the existing carrier. On the main plate there are four holes i only used two and decided to hook the carrier guie into the upper most one then screwed the original bolt back in, its fiddly grrr !

This is where things went wrong for me as the bolts supplied with the kit to attach the barcket were way too big. I ended up getting two 25mm machine m6 size bolts and cutting them to 15mm

Now the really fiddly part.

Below and a little to the right of the 12mm bolt just installed is the 2nd mounting hole.

20131206_121251_zps4803b961.jpg you can just see it in between the resevior and the main body. I worked out that you can just fit a 3/8ths drive bar in there attach a 10mm socket on the other side, slide bolt in align and do up. Pain in the !Removed! doesn't come close.

That should be the main bracket attaches to the side of the Shock tower. Next return to the hole in step 1 and place the small arm across to the main bracket. Insert m6 bolt and do up. Then just do up the bolt supplied to attach the two bits of brace and dial in the stop to the end of the resevior and your done. Replace the bost solinoid bracket and admire your handy work

20131206_121352_zpsd3ce3abc.jpg

20131206_121240_zpsdfe7b11f.jpg

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It went something like this **** **** **** i'moff home for a beer i forgot to add the pic of the contents of the kit. All washers were put on by me as i knew it would be a good idea. Plus the old man was an engineer by trade so wold have got aslap for doing a shocking job :-)

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It went something like this **** **** **** i'moff home for a beer i forgot to add the pic of the contents of the kit. All washers were put on by me as i knew it would be a good idea. Plus the old man was an engineer by trade so wold have got aslap for doing a shocking job :-)

 

:D :D :D :D too right :)

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Excellent write up, thank you, I will look at doing this myself in the near future :-)

Thanks :-) 1st one i've done. After a couple days driving and you can tell the difference. The pedal doesn't feel as slack and soggy when pressed and i'd say it's worth the pennies.

Wether the cusco cdf or other makes are worth the premium is hard to tell without trying each one

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