Fonzey Posted February 19, 2014 Share Posted February 19, 2014 I was in a Subaru Dealership, so thought I'd ask the parts guy for a price on the rear hub:strut bolts (y'know the 19mm ones, two on each strut?). He wanted £40 PLUS VAT for the four bolts to cover the rear!! I was only asking because mine look rusty as hell and ruin the look of my coilovers! I went to a generic nuts and bolts shop and got four of these, with washers (no flange bolts) for £7... Can you see a problem with me using these when I next get the chance? They're identical thread/pitch/length/width but the heads are 22mm rather than 19mm and the threaded portion of the bolt is longer (the OEM ones are unthreaded for the full width of the hub knuckle). Oh, and they're not "flanged" so hence the washers. Not sure how bolts are rated in terms of strength/torque etc, don't want to risk a disaster just because I'm a tart... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gambit Posted February 19, 2014 Share Posted February 19, 2014 I can't see it being a problem. But I think maybe Tlag or Savage or Martin might be better to answer that than me :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jay762 Posted February 19, 2014 Share Posted February 19, 2014 I would do some research into if the OEM bolts are hardened in any way or material of a particular shear strength - If that is ok you should be fine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gambit Posted February 19, 2014 Share Posted February 19, 2014 That would be my only real worry is the strength. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jay762 Posted February 19, 2014 Share Posted February 19, 2014 If it is just rust and the threads are in good condition I would look at dressing them using a wire wheel and a drill or bench grinder then either paint them, plate them or leave them shiney Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fonzey Posted February 19, 2014 Author Share Posted February 19, 2014 If it is just rust and the threads are in good condition I would look at dressing them using a wire wheel and a drill or bench grinder then either paint them, plate them or leave them shineyConsidered this also, the threads are absolutely fine - if anything it's the bolt head and nut that is a little tired from a few years of breaker bar abuse I guess. I've got some of that Bilt Hamber Deox Gel coming to do some other stuff, so might try that on them - then paint the unthreaded parts with Hammerite smooth or something. Not sure how long that would stand up to spanners though, and likewise leaving them uncoated would likely rust in minutes! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fonzey Posted February 21, 2014 Author Share Posted February 21, 2014 One step closer to figuring out if these will be adequate. Looked at the bolt head of one of my new ones and it said "10.9" on it. Stuck it into Google and found the following page: http://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/materials-and-grades/bolt-grade-chart.aspx 10.9 suggests "Alloy Steel, Quenched and Tempered" and is "middle of the road" in terms of strength. I get the feeling my OEM bolts will be unreadable due to rust, but will attack them with a wire brush next time my wheel is off and see what I can work out. If they're 10.9 or less, my new bolts should be fine. Even if not, at least I know what to look for and can go out and buy some 12.9's or whatever. If anyone has remarkably clean suspension strut bolts, feel free to go read the number written on the bolt head :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gambit Posted February 21, 2014 Share Posted February 21, 2014 Nice job find the info out. I'm really rooting that they work, not that I have a problem with the main stealers but I like the cheap fix options more :) Unfortunately I'd say mine are just as bad but will look when I whip a wheel off next Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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