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Halfords want £44, Amazon £24. Thanks for the heads up

Hello Shirley, I had the same issue with my Impreza ( XV is basically an Impreza with more ground clearance ). Key fob battery replacement every few months. What you need to do is put your fob into sleep mode when you lock the car. That way the car and fob will not be constantly communicating using up both the fob and main car battery. If when you lock your car you hold the lock button down and while keeping it down also press the unlock button twice - two flashes from the key fob red light will confirm the fob is now in sleep mode. To unlock do as usual. Press unlock once for the driver's door or twice for all doors. I hope this helps 🙂

The TPMS sensors have batteries that only last 5 to 6 years and which aren't garage replacable so you have to buy a whole new sensor - a real rip-off. Subaru don't make these sensors, they re-badge Schrader ones and mark them up. Do your own research, but I believe the Schrader 3076 is probably the one used on used on recent Subaru - they are half the price of the 'genuine' Subaru ones. My go to garage says they 90% sure they'll be able to program the one I've bought as a test when I get it serviced at the end of the month - the nearest Subaru dealer want £500 to change all 4 !! BTW if the battery(s) are fine but on the way out, they will still trigger the TPMS warning when the weather is colder than 10C as I've found out with the recent mild weather.

There is a follow on update FC7BHM141-070 that has brought the new style display onto my 2022 Outback. Linked car to home WiFi to update.

soe photos for assistance - presents well but under the skin .. and over skin... issues for an enthusiast to bring it up to scratch are mentioned in my first post - offers considered

Basically one of these (see below). No longer needed as i've a Gen6 and this doesn't fit. Comes with all parts, pristine and even with original packaging box and instructions for fitting. Make me an offer. NE England collection. https://subaru-parts.co.uk/product/dog-guard-genuine-subaru-outback-2015-onwards-2/

Oh I'm glad to see it is because you have parted with the car and not the dog :-)

My rear offside lamp cluster has been changed due to very minor chip, occurred during a reversing slip up damaged the bumper mostly, but thought I might as well get it replaced anyway. The lamp is fully functional, I’m jut a perfectionist when it comes to my cars. Am open to sensible offers. Have seen them on EBay for approximately £150, I don’t need that much. If you look closely at the images you can see the small chip on the clear bit of the cover. Otherwise in excellent condition.

I have a 2005 Forester and have the same problem since replacing the battery in the key.,the key worked remotely, has one button only press once to open car and one more to lock the car, there is no led to light up and show that it is working. It does not come with a separate key fob. The 2005 car manual does not show this key. None of the info that I can find on line covers this key either. Has anyone on this forum got experience of this type of because I am totally beaten by it. And it doesn't come with this key pad that the manual talks about but does not illustrate. Any advice would be much appreciated as I am completely flummoxed.

Hi Tony, welcome to the forums and congrats on your 1st Subaru. I think the following should fit your XV: https://subaru.co.uk/accessories/splash-guards-front-j1010fl221 https://subaru.co.uk/accessories/splash-guards-rear-j1010fl204

Yes I had an Alpine unit fitted, now get video, car play and all that goes with it ,sat nav etc. the only thing I have lost is the cars built in voice control, can use Siri for most things including messages and phone use so no major loss. I an send you the part details if you wish.

Really sorry to hear that. I would of thought it should be worth £15 / £16k. Who was it insured with so I know to avoid them.

alot will depend on budget, i've got mega upgraded disks and pads with the standard sti calipers that came on the car, but given your going from basic 4 pots tbh you could do alot worse than a set of AP's, not cheap, but as good as it gets. Other upgrades are of course a set of sti brembo's, however they have wheel clearance issues so would prob need to change the wheels as well. Depending on wheel sizes/offsets you'll need to check fitment, iirc 330mm is about as big a disk you can get under a set of 17's.

Have purchased a pair of Lucas 200% Brighter HID D2S Headlight Bulb. Paid for fitting also (no local garage and I stopped grubbing under my bonnet 20 years ago). It's a 15mile round trip in traffic; planning to go early tomorrow morning. Will let you know after a road test tomorrow night, Thanks for your advice.

Need to check out the clutch system, It hydraulic so a few components that could be causing issues. If that could be its either heavier than your used to (subarus do tend to have heavier clutches) or may be the clutch itself, could have an aftermarket clutch, some can be heavy especially if they are heavier duty.

Thanks for advice (soc), I had'nt considered trying better bulbs - I'll head for Halfords. Also, bulbs will be a heck-of-a-site cheaper than Morimoto and as long as I get plenty of light, it'll be job done.

Halfords now seem to stock a set of Bosch wipers that would fit your Outback model year: https://www.halfords.com/motoring/wiper-blades/bosch-aerotwin-wiper-blade-set-a399s-220995.html

The thread below seems to give some good details on Outback reliability. Overall I would say the petrol Outbacks should be more reliable than the diesels, i.e. no DPF or turbo to worry about, but I'd say it's more down to how it's been looked after by the previous owner(s). No issues with mine so far, touch wood!

She's green now 😂😂😂

Thanks I ordered one today from a Subaru Dealership. Only 18 of that sensor in the country. Got it far, far cheaper than what Halfords was quoting. Cheers

Thanks Mr B. Ill try to replace the unit. after that I will bypass… If you have any reliable resources on bypassing this unit Id be grateful to receive. i much appreciate you taking the time to respond to thread

Reality is it not that big an issue overcome one way or the other . Options are disabling the sigma m30 and bypassing immobiliser circuits (rejoining wires the 2 immobiliser circuits spliced into) . Trying to get the current Sigma working to some functional extent again or replacing the modules with known working used ones (needs be supplied with pin code and/or working fob allow easy programming). No need be a specialist in Subaru as this System is basically added after production line assembly and Sigma systems used on many vehicles in that era including a lot of euro cars . Basically any fairly competent auto electrician, alarm installer or decent mechanic can do this work as it nothing fancy and all you really need is a brain and a multimeter, wiring info is helpful but not a must . What I would do is do few basic things see if can get alarm to function, main thing that goes bad is the siren that located under the wiper plastic trim and sits in the cowl space, this has a P9 rechargable battery inside and they go bad and leak and decay the siren board causing various alarm function issues, just unplug the wire that goes to this siren and test alarm, Also test alarm by having ignition key on and pressing fob button and see if that turns immobilser off ! if does alarm may start function normally again if lucky . You can leave siren unplugged and only issue is you get no siren tones but all will function if rest of system good . If system seems totally unresponsive simplest option is bypassing the Sigma alarm and that pretty quick job to do, only downside is loose the remote central locking as sigma alarm install removed the factory subaru remote locking . The Sigma alarms are nothing but potential problems at 20 years old as it euro made crap, all the Subaru Japan electrics and electronics will be fine and they all independant of the Sigma (besides remote locking) . Even with the Sigma bypassed you still got the Subaru factory transponder key chip immobiliser and that good enough on an old basic Forester . Modern car thieves be lost at trying deal with a car with a physical key and a mechanical handbrake lol . M30 document attached which might be helpful and does include info on pin code use. changing pin code and programming remotes . m30.pdf

It a pretty simple circuit in terms of modern auto electrics,, you either got electrical pulse at the lock when activated or you haven't . If you have then it tailgate latch side issue, if you haven't it fuse/wiring/relay/module/button related . 5 minutes with a multimeter and a basic scan tool should give enough data narrow down area to investigate further ... Latch actuator and button are quite common failures on these . This the problem with all this electrical crap on modern vehicles, mechanical principles of boot release/opening far better, lasts pretty much forever, less parts thus less environmental impact & if did get an issue it generally easier/cheaper visual inspection and adjustment/repair . Move onto something like a Tesla which rammed full of pointless low quality electronics and software and purposefully engineered barriers for diag/repair options and the drama and cost is literally insane ... Point here is buy vehicles with a lot of thought and take a lot more thought on how you spend money trying get repairs ... Don't assume newer is less maintenance and hassle as in my workshop reality is newer it is the more goes wrong and the more ballache and more cost to resolve it ...

I would start with removing the bonnet switch, cleaning and examining it - test with a multimeter that there is continuity when opened/closed and also the connections for dirt, corrosion, etc. If all else fails then bypassing will work, but not sure how many thieves would pop the bonnet which they still have to enter the car to release so its not a major thing in reality.

South lanarkshire

The parts are all individually balanced (or at least should be at manufacture stage if they of any good brand/supply source) clatter at tickover a problem but probably not balancing, bad balance be much much worse at higher revs .

Made light work of it the machine definitely saved our backs 😅

Lincolnshire

Well the engines in and running sweet as a nut didnt have to swap anything over the injectors are bang on no rough idle, smoke or any sign of them needing coding.

Thank you. I will look again at what is available on line.

Sutherland

Thats the one 😅 not actually that hard of a job we had it out in 3 hour just waiting on a breaker to get the engine out of the donor lad werent in the yard yesterday 🙈

A very original and solid car - will definitely sparkle with some elbow grease

Both euro 5 engines so shouldn't be massive differences. No mechanics wanted to do the job so started it myself. 4 of us on a scaffold tube lifted it straight out 😅

First few trips including motorway, city, minor roads, farm tracks, unmade lanes, snow and ice! Collected my 23 plate XV SE Premium a few weeks ago and immediately treated it to a new set of Continental All Season Contact 2. First impressions? Road holding is superb in a variety of conditions. Living in very rural mid Wales, have been able to test on muddy roads, very wet roads, through some floods, we even had two days of snow up to about 3 inches on the roads, then rutted farm tracks with frozen snow and broken ice. So far, all I can say is wow. My old car was a battered 2013 4wd Duster with full mud and snow off road tyres and that could cope with most conditions admirably. However, the XV was happy in all conditions so far with no complaints, plus it's a heck of a lot more comfortable than the old war horse! I had read about the CVT taking a bit of getting used to, the adaptive cruise being a pain, the safety stuff being a bit too safe, the acceleration being poor, the engine noisy, the infotainment system being glitchy, the music system being poor as well as many other complaints (mainly from motoring journalists). All I can say is that my initial experience is this:- The CVT is pretty smooth and Subaru have done a good job of making it feel like a conventional auto. Adaptive cruise is extremely controllable, all the way to standstill and pulling away again. Safety is superb, love the little lights on the mirrors letting you know something is alongside, the fast flash when someone is coming up fast or a pedestrian is walking behind you in a car park. The front view camera is superb when parking, as is the rear parking assist camera. Acceleration is smooth and steady, not the quickest, but that doesn't bother me. I'm not trying to win the RAC. The engine noise is acceptable, certainly not excessive on acceleration. No glitches with the Infotainment system so far, got a decent USB cable and the set up is easy and quick, Android Auto works well, the built in navigation is quick and easy to update to current maps, system is easily customisable, intuitive and the touch screen easy to navigate. Google Voice commands work well. DAB is decent with seamless transitions between digital and FM, essential round here as signal is sketchy. How loud do motoring journalists want their music systems? Up into the low 20's on the control and the music is loud and crisp with no distortion. Sat at around 15 is plenty loud enough for normal listening. Air con is fantastic, heated seats perfect, space great, boot is compact but sufficient, seats are comfortable, handling is out of this world for a high ground clearance car, all the toys work well, Eyesight system is superb. Fuel economy is around 40mpg so far, EV system around London was excellent this weekend and the thing I love the most is that I've only seen two other XV's so far! Cool Marque with a nice bit of exclusivity. Granted these are pretty early days, but so far very impressed and pleased with my purchase and looking forward to many happy miles in the Scooby. Off to Europe next week, so let's see how we handle autoroutes and cobbles!

Good news, I got my maps back. The Subaru Customer Support replied quickly with a detailed step by step procedure to regain the maps. It looked a bit daunting but with patience it worked. The only hitch in the process is that the USB stick has to be plugged in after opening the map update window. It didn’t register when I first put it in. I will copy the steps below for anyone else to use. This is the email reply I received: Thank You for contacting Subaru (UK) Ltd. I will try and help you with your map issue, if you have lost your UK map, it sounds like you may have started a UK Map update 'in car' via a Wi-Fi connection, and then it lost connection/lost connectivity - the first thing it does is delete the current map, then apply the update, if the update fails, you have no map... The only way to fix this now is to carry out a FULL map reload via USB stick, using the maps website. I'm going to give you all the information, so apologies if you are much further ahead. For your information, the maps installed on your car can be updated to the latest map release using website: http://subaru-maps.com When using the subaru-maps website you create a user-account, add your vehicles VIN, type in your Request Code off the Head Unit to obtain your Authentication Code, then download and install the 'Map Downloader' app, open this and log in (also using the same credentials as the website) to view and physically download any updated maps available for your car. Once the USB stick has been created, insert it in the car, then type in the Activation Code you obtained from the website when prompted to authorise the install. I know this all sounds complicated, so I have attached some visual instructions as a PDF - I hope these help explain the process a little better. Lastly, the app and the QR code - unfortunately the app is only compatible for the EV vehicles, eg the SOLTERRA currently, it will not work with your Outback. I will attach the pdf mentioned above. Hope someone finds it useful. Activation Code on HARMAN maps-Dec-02-2024-03-43-40-7464-PM.pdf

Thanks all for your input - sorry to hear about your issues @Justin Time - will keep a close eye on brake issues after this! and thanks @Hippo for the vote of confidence So I pulled the trigger on a low milage 2021 gen 5 which I picked up last week - I have to say I am absolutely loving it, and feel that I have absolutely made the right choice stepping into the Subaru club….after a week of driving even more perplexed by how much they get such middling reviews in the press….I’m not used to driving particularly fast cars, but it certainly feels more than punchy enough…it doesn’t particularly feel much slower in the real world than my wife’s xc40 which does 0-60 in sub-8.0 seconds.. aside from that great comfort, ridiculous amounts of space, and imo great sharp handling for such a big car (came with Michelin cross climates which might help) one happy buyer here!

JDM STi Block Fully Rebuilt Block with Forged parts, RCM Head Gasket & Cosworth Oil Pump & Timing Belt Xtreme Clutch & Flywheel 850CC Injectors Garrett MD321T Turbo HKS Intake Dritworks Intercooler Mishimoto Radiator Powdercoated White Hard Pipes 2.5″ Decat Downpipe to 3″ Afterburner Exhaust BC Coilovers Bola B1 Wheels with Yokoahama AE50 Tyres Perrin Rear Spoiler Brackets Carbon Diffuser ECUTEK Map by Andy Forrest - 370BHP/343 ftlbs @ 1.5bar cna go more, but running more than safe at this. From West Aberdeenshire

Bulbs fitted f.o.c - Halfords in Hereford, the guy who installed them had never been under the bonnet of a Subaru before but he coped very effectively. Lights up and working ok - will report back here when I have assesed them after dark' Meanwhile . . . I've owned the car for about 10 years and the dashboard lights have always been too dim to see during the day, including the main dis[lay panel (satnav etc). Checking the full range of the dimmer switch changed the display lighting but it was always to dim. Main dealer checked for me and said there wasn't anything wrong (!) however, as soon as the new headlight bulbs were in, I had a well lit dashboard !!! Are there any automotive electrics members who can explain that ???

It's possible, but it definitely "comes on" around 40 kph and then goes off above and below that speed.