Leaderboard

There is a follow on update FC7BHM141-070 that has brought the new style display onto my 2022 Outback. Linked car to home WiFi to update.

soe photos for assistance - presents well but under the skin .. and over skin... issues for an enthusiast to bring it up to scratch are mentioned in my first post - offers considered

The TPMS sensors have batteries that only last 5 to 6 years and which aren't garage replacable so you have to buy a whole new sensor - a real rip-off. Subaru don't make these sensors, they re-badge Schrader ones and mark them up. Do your own research, but I believe the Schrader 3076 is probably the one used on used on recent Subaru - they are half the price of the 'genuine' Subaru ones. My go to garage says they 90% sure they'll be able to program the one I've bought as a test when I get it serviced at the end of the month - the nearest Subaru dealer want £500 to change all 4 !! BTW if the battery(s) are fine but on the way out, they will still trigger the TPMS warning when the weather is colder than 10C as I've found out with the recent mild weather.

Hello Shirley, I had the same issue with my Impreza ( XV is basically an Impreza with more ground clearance ). Key fob battery replacement every few months. What you need to do is put your fob into sleep mode when you lock the car. That way the car and fob will not be constantly communicating using up both the fob and main car battery. If when you lock your car you hold the lock button down and while keeping it down also press the unlock button twice - two flashes from the key fob red light will confirm the fob is now in sleep mode. To unlock do as usual. Press unlock once for the driver's door or twice for all doors. I hope this helps 🙂

Thanks I ordered one today from a Subaru Dealership. Only 18 of that sensor in the country. Got it far, far cheaper than what Halfords was quoting. Cheers

Thanks Mr B. Ill try to replace the unit. after that I will bypass… If you have any reliable resources on bypassing this unit Id be grateful to receive. i much appreciate you taking the time to respond to thread

Reality is it not that big an issue overcome one way or the other . Options are disabling the sigma m30 and bypassing immobiliser circuits (rejoining wires the 2 immobiliser circuits spliced into) . Trying to get the current Sigma working to some functional extent again or replacing the modules with known working used ones (needs be supplied with pin code and/or working fob allow easy programming). No need be a specialist in Subaru as this System is basically added after production line assembly and Sigma systems used on many vehicles in that era including a lot of euro cars . Basically any fairly competent auto electrician, alarm installer or decent mechanic can do this work as it nothing fancy and all you really need is a brain and a multimeter, wiring info is helpful but not a must . What I would do is do few basic things see if can get alarm to function, main thing that goes bad is the siren that located under the wiper plastic trim and sits in the cowl space, this has a P9 rechargable battery inside and they go bad and leak and decay the siren board causing various alarm function issues, just unplug the wire that goes to this siren and test alarm, Also test alarm by having ignition key on and pressing fob button and see if that turns immobilser off ! if does alarm may start function normally again if lucky . You can leave siren unplugged and only issue is you get no siren tones but all will function if rest of system good . If system seems totally unresponsive simplest option is bypassing the Sigma alarm and that pretty quick job to do, only downside is loose the remote central locking as sigma alarm install removed the factory subaru remote locking . The Sigma alarms are nothing but potential problems at 20 years old as it euro made crap, all the Subaru Japan electrics and electronics will be fine and they all independant of the Sigma (besides remote locking) . Even with the Sigma bypassed you still got the Subaru factory transponder key chip immobiliser and that good enough on an old basic Forester . Modern car thieves be lost at trying deal with a car with a physical key and a mechanical handbrake lol . M30 document attached which might be helpful and does include info on pin code use. changing pin code and programming remotes . m30.pdf

It a pretty simple circuit in terms of modern auto electrics,, you either got electrical pulse at the lock when activated or you haven't . If you have then it tailgate latch side issue, if you haven't it fuse/wiring/relay/module/button related . 5 minutes with a multimeter and a basic scan tool should give enough data narrow down area to investigate further ... Latch actuator and button are quite common failures on these . This the problem with all this electrical crap on modern vehicles, mechanical principles of boot release/opening far better, lasts pretty much forever, less parts thus less environmental impact & if did get an issue it generally easier/cheaper visual inspection and adjustment/repair . Move onto something like a Tesla which rammed full of pointless low quality electronics and software and purposefully engineered barriers for diag/repair options and the drama and cost is literally insane ... Point here is buy vehicles with a lot of thought and take a lot more thought on how you spend money trying get repairs ... Don't assume newer is less maintenance and hassle as in my workshop reality is newer it is the more goes wrong and the more ballache and more cost to resolve it ...

I would start with removing the bonnet switch, cleaning and examining it - test with a multimeter that there is continuity when opened/closed and also the connections for dirt, corrosion, etc. If all else fails then bypassing will work, but not sure how many thieves would pop the bonnet which they still have to enter the car to release so its not a major thing in reality.

South lanarkshire

The parts are all individually balanced (or at least should be at manufacture stage if they of any good brand/supply source) clatter at tickover a problem but probably not balancing, bad balance be much much worse at higher revs .

Made light work of it the machine definitely saved our backs 😅

Lincolnshire

Well the engines in and running sweet as a nut didnt have to swap anything over the injectors are bang on no rough idle, smoke or any sign of them needing coding.

Thank you. I will look again at what is available on line.

Sutherland

Thats the one 😅 not actually that hard of a job we had it out in 3 hour just waiting on a breaker to get the engine out of the donor lad werent in the yard yesterday 🙈

A very original and solid car - will definitely sparkle with some elbow grease

Both euro 5 engines so shouldn't be massive differences. No mechanics wanted to do the job so started it myself. 4 of us on a scaffold tube lifted it straight out 😅

Sometimes you just got to put them side by side and measure everything as there could be so many variables between them. Let us know how you get on with it all and good to see some pics of good old driveway maintenance

Just a bit oily in there will be de greasing and cleaning up tomorrow

There are only 6 on Autotrader, most have zillions of miles on them. Nearest is at a garage 18 plate with 37k miles for £16714. Mines younger but slightly higher miles and a private sale so £12500

I'm sure you'll be fine if you just replace the subframe.

I assume it might be the problem of the needle backlight bleeding out when the needle at a certain position to your viewing angle and for you that is when needle at the 40 position ...

Well that picture is not a 1999 Forester sf hub lol . Poor pics but probably a SH SJ hub ! What is the actual correct vehicle details/scenario !? below is actual subaru fast parts illustrations of a SF Forester non turbo rear hub and brake drum layout .

I'm curious @Achilleas did you resolve. Just bought a 2023 Forester and disappointed with Hybrid and mpg. Manual says "when speed is less than 25mph it is possible to drive using only the power of the electric motor" but that's not my experience. It only kicks in when stopped or at very slow speed. Maybe have battery problem? What's your experience of this? tks Peter

Good news, I got my maps back. The Subaru Customer Support replied quickly with a detailed step by step procedure to regain the maps. It looked a bit daunting but with patience it worked. The only hitch in the process is that the USB stick has to be plugged in after opening the map update window. It didn’t register when I first put it in. I will copy the steps below for anyone else to use. This is the email reply I received: Thank You for contacting Subaru (UK) Ltd. I will try and help you with your map issue, if you have lost your UK map, it sounds like you may have started a UK Map update 'in car' via a Wi-Fi connection, and then it lost connection/lost connectivity - the first thing it does is delete the current map, then apply the update, if the update fails, you have no map... The only way to fix this now is to carry out a FULL map reload via USB stick, using the maps website. I'm going to give you all the information, so apologies if you are much further ahead. For your information, the maps installed on your car can be updated to the latest map release using website: http://subaru-maps.com When using the subaru-maps website you create a user-account, add your vehicles VIN, type in your Request Code off the Head Unit to obtain your Authentication Code, then download and install the 'Map Downloader' app, open this and log in (also using the same credentials as the website) to view and physically download any updated maps available for your car. Once the USB stick has been created, insert it in the car, then type in the Activation Code you obtained from the website when prompted to authorise the install. I know this all sounds complicated, so I have attached some visual instructions as a PDF - I hope these help explain the process a little better. Lastly, the app and the QR code - unfortunately the app is only compatible for the EV vehicles, eg the SOLTERRA currently, it will not work with your Outback. I will attach the pdf mentioned above. Hope someone finds it useful. Activation Code on HARMAN maps-Dec-02-2024-03-43-40-7464-PM.pdf

JDM STi Block Fully Rebuilt Block with Forged parts, RCM Head Gasket & Cosworth Oil Pump & Timing Belt Xtreme Clutch & Flywheel 850CC Injectors Garrett MD321T Turbo HKS Intake Dritworks Intercooler Mishimoto Radiator Powdercoated White Hard Pipes 2.5″ Decat Downpipe to 3″ Afterburner Exhaust BC Coilovers Bola B1 Wheels with Yokoahama AE50 Tyres Perrin Rear Spoiler Brackets Carbon Diffuser ECUTEK Map by Andy Forrest - 370BHP/343 ftlbs @ 1.5bar cna go more, but running more than safe at this. From West Aberdeenshire

It's possible, but it definitely "comes on" around 40 kph and then goes off above and below that speed.