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Strange, if the level is physically ok then could be a sensor problem.

Hello and happy to say I pick up my new to me 3 year old Outback next week. Have done a fair bit of research since we decided to buy it. At the moment considering the benefits of putting all season tyres on it and advice on the best options would be great. We live in Scotland and had several 4X4 over the years but the outback will be our first car with 4 wheel drive. Thanks Dave

Glad you like it, you missed out the best bit, heated seats, XV is the first car i've had thats had them hahaha

Is it correct type of hose, injection system fuel hose for moderm ethynol fuel blends is specific type and carries a SAE code printed along it's length - example: SAE J30R9 for a modern high standard non submursed hose, You do have ISO and DIN standards and you best cross referencing those as and if needed . Can be quite difficult getting right type/quality aftermarket as majority of common/easy sources likely stock cheapest garbage they can source and a lot will sell you wrong hose as they clueless or just want make money from selling something . As with most things you buy these days that need quality/design/function specifics you got be fussy on how you source them . Other things to check would be fuel system pressure being controlled correctly .

I've recently (November last year) brought a subaru legacy 1999. I'm looking for advise as to wheres best to get parts. In particular im looking for the limited style bumper (front and back), I have had a look online and fb market place but am unable to find any or i just keep missing them. Please let me know if anyone is selling them. The car is white but I dont mind what colour as im planing to get the whole car resprayed at some point anyway. Thanks in advance!

After 8 years you will prob wanna drain the fuel and put some fresh in before trying to fire it. 8 year old fuel is not exactly great lol

This era of hub design does not have an installed bearing on hub option . Just buy a proper quality bearing kit such as KOYO NTN etc, if super tight budget you could go BluePrint bearing via Carparts in Motion (20% off until 2nd of feb so bearing kit is like £18.65) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/317689424380 You can do these on car using bearing removal/install kits such as linked below . https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/397362941519 Use these bearing kits with some sense and they can do the job, can struggle removing a real old rusted in bearing without the likes of a proper long barrel air hammer assist getting it moving . You going want lateral link bushes and bolt too on these unless you blessed with fresh import or one that had recent work done involving these parts. Subaru genuine bush and bolt kit is cheap ... Be careful buying parts off eBay as lot of the more off brand and no name parts are total junk and don't last or fit/function well . It hard enough buying quality these days from well known brands and even oem/original is not what it was decade or 2 ago . In the Automotive repair world good parts knowledge has become a must as using whatever !Removed! comes easy and cheap works out real bad ...

The biggest issue will be your age rather than import or not. glad you got it sorted though

Don't remap until you find a cause of the check engine. Remapping can make the problem a lot worse. What codes did the garage pull from the ecu?

Hi. If you needed any help with insurance at all then please feel free to drop me a line. Regards, Dan.

Just gone out again on the last trip so I've ordered a replacement sensor.....

Shall start with the warnings and info to get em out the way The first thing to ask is probably what experience do you have of running a high performance car? Do you understand things can go wrong very quickly if your not used to the performance (trust me, been there done that. I killed my first launching it over a hedge upside down after dodging a stupid pedestrian who decided to cross the road in front of me. Not really my fault, but car was still smashed to bits), plus the rozzers are always on the lookout ;) Next is have you got a handle on the costs involved? They drink fuel, which needs to be decent so vpower or tesco 99, depending on how you drive could be low teens mpg. Keeping on top of servicing and maintenance is a must, Oil changes should be done every 3k miles (dont listen to anyone saying 10k miles etc etc), full belt and tensioner kit every 3 years or relevant milage. Don't forget that while you may pay 20k for it now, when it was sold it was 30-40k and parts costs reflect that. This also brings on the point that A its a 20 year old car and while japan is alot easier on them for rust etc, its still had 20 years of wear and tear and B expect it to need some bits and bobs, highly unlikely it will have had a proper service, oil change etc etc when it was sold so could easily rack up £2000 worth of basic service stuff, oil change, coolant, spark plugs, belt kit, may need a set of tyres etc etc etc, additionally parts will be worn, including expensive parts like engine, gearbox suspension parts etc. O dont skimp on tyres, expect £100 ish per corner for a decent set of something like pilot sports. Tax rates on them can vary alot, depending on where it falls, mines £760 a year (some imports seem to be cheaper some not) Make sure you get some quotes for insurance, including making sure you declare each and every mod it has or just before you do them. If you dont and either get caught by the rozzers or need to have insurance involvement, as soon as they inspect the car (and they will) you'll be facing charges of driving without insurance, no insurance payout, plus what ever other costs and a very black mark on your record going forward that will give you difficulty getting insurance on any car. Bear in mind im yet to see any imported cars that are not modified so the declaration bit is a must. So the good, Holy feck are they fun to drive, they don't say miles of smiles for no reason. Straight line they are fast, but not a rocket ship other than on launch. Being AWD they launch like a scalded cat due to the traction they have, but then they loose more power through transition loss (roughly 15% for 2wd 25% for awd). Back roads, well thats a different story, thats where they really come to life. I may have, 20+ years ago and in a different country cough cough, left a police pursuit volvo for dust on some back roads in a mildly tuned uk classic. In such a fashion i didnt even realise he was trying to catch me and too fast for the cars vascar to get a reading on the twisty roads. The funniest thing was i wasn't even flat out as i was just having a bit of fun on my way up to the garage. But just shows how rapid they are as i am by no means an expert driver. The JDM impreza comes with a 2.0 engine, twin scroll turbo vs the UK 2.5 engine, single scroll turbo, which you prefer is really personal preference as they both have good and bad points. Also they sound slightly different due to the exhaust manifold being equal on the JMD and unequal length on the UK. The JDM is no longer a forged pistoned engine as they were years ago, but is still good for about 400bhp ish out the box with supporting mods. The UK is a bit of a dog engine wise, it has various issues with headgasket failures and ring land failures with the 2.5 so 350bhp is about the limit you'd want to go to. But it tends to come with alot more torque, which for me makes them a better road car engine. Modding wise your only really limited by your budget. (prices mentioned are just approximate so could be way out), also should be noted some cars just tune better than others and it varies wildly, I've seen cars struggle to break the 300bhp mark no matter how they get mapped. A remap, exhaust and panel filter will see around 330bhp (up from 280 ish). Although the improvements in responce far out weight the extra power imo, will prob come in around £2k, At that stage your then onto replacing the standard turbo, maybe injectors etc to take you up towards 400bhp. prob around 5k ish After that you then get into 10k+ for an engine build and alot of supporting mods, aftermarket ecu's etc etc etc Exhausts vary from quiet to mahoosive bean cans that you can hear from 5 miles away haha there are plenty of options for suspension upgrades from simple lowering springs to full coilovers. Roll bar upgrades, etc etc etc (its a big list haha) Brakes again have plenty of upgrades, but most folks just simply go for a set of AP brakes which vary in price depending on pads and disks. (may need to include a set of larger wheels to fit them) One word of warning is to be carefull of tuners promising mega results etc etc, if it sounds too good to be true, it may well be and there alot of dodgy tuners in the subaru game. Dam that was a wall of text haha, but def important to think about it seriously. There's loads more to learn about em but that gives you a bit of info have a read through, Here's a link to mine which is a late 06 uk,

Rust can happen, but doesn't normally cause big issues unless its sat for a long while (months). Is it the ABS kicking in and its a case of water getting into the sensor?

Hi pete. U still got ghe forestets. I. From longbenton. Just recently got an auto

That's I've read while researching before my purchase too I think because I haven't owned an STi before so I do get a bit of the 'grass is greener on the other side' vibes. The blue will always be a desire for me though haha 😄

my usual go to is importcarparts, could try there. Yeah its a fairly quiet forum, like most nowadays in truth. Still active, people pop in and out :)

Hi. Please feel free to give us a try for insurance if you wish. Regards, Dan.

Hope you get this sorted Bowesy. That's a delicious looking car, and I'm not envious one bit,.. No siree, not me :)

You could try Adrian Flux and quote Subaru Owners Club - they may be able to offer advice and a cheaper quote https://www.adrianflux.co.uk/oci/?utm_source=SubaruOwnersClub

I received an email today entitled 'Subaru Map Update Portal' informing me that a update was available for my Outback. After checking it through my virus checker etc. I clicked on the link and was taken to the Portal where I had to register and was then sent an activation code. After eventually getting the code and inputting it, to be told I again needed an activation code but when I put that new code in I was then further informed my account was already activated (you're getting the gist of this right!). I realised this wasn't going to be straightforward. Any road, eventually I got an account set up and logged in the vehicle with its VIN - all well again. Then I had to download the map installation system (more shenanigans), but eventually done. The page helpfully (not!) in formed me that Starlink was no longer in use since 2023 (I'd not bothered anyway as it was useless), it then proceeded simply to offer me more opportunities to download the map installer - again, with no way forward. The map installer is for OS X (my laptop) so it should have worked - it didn't. Route two: checked the online manual on the page and saw there was a mobile phone route. Ah ha! Phone put and I got to the page www.subaru-maps.com, and logged in, I had again to download the map installer, but was only given the option of OS X version or Windows - so no ios then! Urgh. Getting more and more frustrated, I went to the 'contact us' link and scrolled down to the UK link and clicked, to be taken to UK Subaru page https://subaru.co.uk/customer-support where I was informed by 'customer support' "sorry - page no longer exists'! What a complete waste of time and sadly simply reinforces the image of Subaru technology being all froth and little substance. Rant over - so back to the my padded cell...!

On a similar theme, I was in my local Subaru dealer this morning and saw a new sign encouraging me to update my details on the Subaru website so I would always receive special offers, latest news etc. I scanned the QR code on the sign only to find it sent me to the same “Sorry - page no longer exists”……..

They also got me this Cross Sport type S I’m currently driving 🤣🤣 Still got the little white beast too but looks different since I last posted