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First few trips including motorway, city, minor roads, farm tracks, unmade lanes, snow and ice! Collected my 23 plate XV SE Premium a few weeks ago and immediately treated it to a new set of Continental All Season Contact 2. First impressions? Road holding is superb in a variety of conditions. Living in very rural mid Wales, have been able to test on muddy roads, very wet roads, through some floods, we even had two days of snow up to about 3 inches on the roads, then rutted farm tracks with frozen snow and broken ice. So far, all I can say is wow. My old car was a battered 2013 4wd Duster with full mud and snow off road tyres and that could cope with most conditions admirably. However, the XV was happy in all conditions so far with no complaints, plus it's a heck of a lot more comfortable than the old war horse! I had read about the CVT taking a bit of getting used to, the adaptive cruise being a pain, the safety stuff being a bit too safe, the acceleration being poor, the engine noisy, the infotainment system being glitchy, the music system being poor as well as many other complaints (mainly from motoring journalists). All I can say is that my initial experience is this:- The CVT is pretty smooth and Subaru have done a good job of making it feel like a conventional auto. Adaptive cruise is extremely controllable, all the way to standstill and pulling away again. Safety is superb, love the little lights on the mirrors letting you know something is alongside, the fast flash when someone is coming up fast or a pedestrian is walking behind you in a car park. The front view camera is superb when parking, as is the rear parking assist camera. Acceleration is smooth and steady, not the quickest, but that doesn't bother me. I'm not trying to win the RAC. The engine noise is acceptable, certainly not excessive on acceleration. No glitches with the Infotainment system so far, got a decent USB cable and the set up is easy and quick, Android Auto works well, the built in navigation is quick and easy to update to current maps, system is easily customisable, intuitive and the touch screen easy to navigate. Google Voice commands work well. DAB is decent with seamless transitions between digital and FM, essential round here as signal is sketchy. How loud do motoring journalists want their music systems? Up into the low 20's on the control and the music is loud and crisp with no distortion. Sat at around 15 is plenty loud enough for normal listening. Air con is fantastic, heated seats perfect, space great, boot is compact but sufficient, seats are comfortable, handling is out of this world for a high ground clearance car, all the toys work well, Eyesight system is superb. Fuel economy is around 40mpg so far, EV system around London was excellent this weekend and the thing I love the most is that I've only seen two other XV's so far! Cool Marque with a nice bit of exclusivity. Granted these are pretty early days, but so far very impressed and pleased with my purchase and looking forward to many happy miles in the Scooby. Off to Europe next week, so let's see how we handle autoroutes and cobbles!

Glad you like it, you missed out the best bit, heated seats, XV is the first car i've had thats had them hahaha

There is a follow on update FC7BHM141-070 that has brought the new style display onto my 2022 Outback. Linked car to home WiFi to update.

soe photos for assistance - presents well but under the skin .. and over skin... issues for an enthusiast to bring it up to scratch are mentioned in my first post - offers considered

Is it correct type of hose, injection system fuel hose for moderm ethynol fuel blends is specific type and carries a SAE code printed along it's length - example: SAE J30R9 for a modern high standard non submursed hose, You do have ISO and DIN standards and you best cross referencing those as and if needed . Can be quite difficult getting right type/quality aftermarket as majority of common/easy sources likely stock cheapest garbage they can source and a lot will sell you wrong hose as they clueless or just want make money from selling something . As with most things you buy these days that need quality/design/function specifics you got be fussy on how you source them . Other things to check would be fuel system pressure being controlled correctly .

Strange, if the level is physically ok then could be a sensor problem.

Hello and happy to say I pick up my new to me 3 year old Outback next week. Have done a fair bit of research since we decided to buy it. At the moment considering the benefits of putting all season tyres on it and advice on the best options would be great. We live in Scotland and had several 4X4 over the years but the outback will be our first car with 4 wheel drive. Thanks Dave

Sad thing is it really shows how bad subaru UK is/was when info like this shows up.

She has finally arrived from Singapore now 😎 2.0 GT-S with 48,500kms on the clock

Thanks I ordered one today from a Subaru Dealership. Only 18 of that sensor in the country. Got it far, far cheaper than what Halfords was quoting. Cheers

Thanks Mr B. Ill try to replace the unit. after that I will bypass… If you have any reliable resources on bypassing this unit Id be grateful to receive. i much appreciate you taking the time to respond to thread

The parts are all individually balanced (or at least should be at manufacture stage if they of any good brand/supply source) clatter at tickover a problem but probably not balancing, bad balance be much much worse at higher revs .

Lincolnshire

Well the engines in and running sweet as a nut didnt have to swap anything over the injectors are bang on no rough idle, smoke or any sign of them needing coding.

Thats the one 😅 not actually that hard of a job we had it out in 3 hour just waiting on a breaker to get the engine out of the donor lad werent in the yard yesterday 🙈

A very original and solid car - will definitely sparkle with some elbow grease

Both euro 5 engines so shouldn't be massive differences. No mechanics wanted to do the job so started it myself. 4 of us on a scaffold tube lifted it straight out 😅

Just a bit oily in there will be de greasing and cleaning up tomorrow

There are only 6 on Autotrader, most have zillions of miles on them. Nearest is at a garage 18 plate with 37k miles for £16714. Mines younger but slightly higher miles and a private sale so £12500

I'm curious @Achilleas did you resolve. Just bought a 2023 Forester and disappointed with Hybrid and mpg. Manual says "when speed is less than 25mph it is possible to drive using only the power of the electric motor" but that's not my experience. It only kicks in when stopped or at very slow speed. Maybe have battery problem? What's your experience of this? tks Peter

After 8 years you will prob wanna drain the fuel and put some fresh in before trying to fire it. 8 year old fuel is not exactly great lol

This era of hub design does not have an installed bearing on hub option . Just buy a proper quality bearing kit such as KOYO NTN etc, if super tight budget you could go BluePrint bearing via Carparts in Motion (20% off until 2nd of feb so bearing kit is like £18.65) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/317689424380 You can do these on car using bearing removal/install kits such as linked below . https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/397362941519 Use these bearing kits with some sense and they can do the job, can struggle removing a real old rusted in bearing without the likes of a proper long barrel air hammer assist getting it moving . You going want lateral link bushes and bolt too on these unless you blessed with fresh import or one that had recent work done involving these parts. Subaru genuine bush and bolt kit is cheap ... Be careful buying parts off eBay as lot of the more off brand and no name parts are total junk and don't last or fit/function well . It hard enough buying quality these days from well known brands and even oem/original is not what it was decade or 2 ago . In the Automotive repair world good parts knowledge has become a must as using whatever !Removed! comes easy and cheap works out real bad ...

The biggest issue will be your age rather than import or not. glad you got it sorted though

Hi. If you needed any help with insurance at all then please feel free to drop me a line. Regards, Dan.

Just gone out again on the last trip so I've ordered a replacement sensor.....

Rust can happen, but doesn't normally cause big issues unless its sat for a long while (months). Is it the ABS kicking in and its a case of water getting into the sensor?

Hi pete. U still got ghe forestets. I. From longbenton. Just recently got an auto

Hi chaps after abit of help I’ve run out of things to try and I’m at my wits end 😂 so ill keep it short. my issue is hunting at idle and will sometimes stall , boost gauge also goes into negative when it’s hunting, I’ve replaced the manifold, all lines vac etc, pcv, idle control valve and MAF sensor, still the issue persists, today I cleaned the fuel pump filter in the tank it was pretty blocked to be fair, still the same, was told it’s a walboro 255 fuel pump but I’m not sure if anyone can confirm from piccy ? also tuck plugs out and they are black not wet but black and they where brand new. Maybe my issue is fuel related I’ve done some research and my regulator reads nearly 3 bar on tickover with vac line connected, this seems high to me ? anyway I’ve gone on abit if anyone’s got any advice pointers etc please let me know regards Lee

Hi , Harrogate roughly 1 hour 20 mins from us as we live close to Great Ayton in N Yorks but thanks anyway for information. We didn't get Free servicing but we paid £300 for three services we also got free mats and a full tank of fuel which I believe you normally pay for 👍, I suppose all subaru dealers are different depending on the sale. I've read that the lanoguard needs replacing every two years and it's a clear solution, it will be interesting how much I get quoted and how it compares to yours, congratulations on your 66 years young I only mentioned the "old git " as my darling wife of 36 years uses the term quite often especially since I retired 🙂 We intend to make this our last New car as my wife is taking early retirement in December 2026 so intend to do all I can to make it last , rust prevention, early oil changes etc, I too had Several Skodas, 2 early rapides in the early days of penniless marriage and my final one when we had some cash the Octavia Vrs which I absolutely adored, happy days gone by 🙂👍 Safe motoring and happy Xmas to you and your family 🎅🎅

You could try Adrian Flux and quote Subaru Owners Club - they may be able to offer advice and a cheaper quote https://www.adrianflux.co.uk/oci/?utm_source=SubaruOwnersClub

Hi. Outbacks /Subarus are still fairly rare in the UK so also consider this US site where Subaru's and Outbacks are very popular, so much more info. https://www.subaruoutback.org/ As I'm on my second Outback, I clearly have a fondness for them. I like their safety, size, comfort, etc. There are quirks however, and the mainstream dealership I've found to be wanting. Look for an independent garage if there's one near by. They're reliable but change the oil much more regularly than the owner's manual suggests (every 6000 miles?) if you want to keep it long term. Great off road, with proper all-season or winter tyres. Reliable and I never had any issues with my last one 50,000 aside from dealership problems. They'll be heavier on brakes and tyres perhaps, and expect to get 30 - 35 mpg if driving on A and B roads with hills. I wouldn't buy one for heavy commuting, or doing local trips to and from the shops. But for safely driving the family around the countryside, and all your gear, in comfort, they're great.

I've been using Continental All Season Contact, and Goodyear vector all seasons on my Outback and Levorg for the last few years, also in rural Wales, and they've been faultless, especially in slimy wet conditions. Highly recommended.

+1 to that ... 3.0 EZ30D was a subaru gem, shame they didn't put it in the foresters (does fit fairly easily). Biggest disappointment was lack of nice manual gearbox option . Very versatile vehicle which could do a lot and they were cheap on the used market for a pretty solid reliable wagon, if they had some waxoil rust treatment in early years they last real well as mechanically and electronically the parts were proper quality manufacture unlike the 5h1te you buying new today .

Much appreciate your opinion and insights Judd.

I have a 20 year old (prado sized) Landcruiser 120 LC5, been running full size Toyota 4x4s since the mid 90s and have yet to be let down by one, alternator packed up on the present steed a few years ago but she still never failed to proceed and i stuck a recon on for £126 ish, it'll probably still be going when they plant me. Underbody mainly chassis corrosion is what kills them in Britain, especially if they've previously lived in Scotland, mine is still mainly rust free because i plaster the undersides in ACF50/chain lube/marine grease every year, filthy job but worth doing, looking at MOT histories of other 120s and the very similar later 150s underbody corrosion features too often on the usual stuff, inner sills are also exposed to the elements and the rear axle casing will rot too, rear aircon pipes are alloy which again corrodes and is an expensive re-piping exercise, ask me how i know this. If you decide to get a late 150 series suggest you check it very carefully underneath and start rustproofing the day you get it home, other than rust they are good vehicles which seldom cause any issues if the servicing is kept up, seriously expensive used now and only going one way, the prices being asked for the V8 engined 200 series can only be described as ludicrous and whilst its a great vehicle its very technical too and also suffers the underbody tin worm issues which also affects the pipework of the hydraulic suspension which can cost serious money to repair, again mucho greasing and oiling is called for. Servicing is simple enough for most things DIY, but remember Toyota warranty is topped up every year if you get it serviced by them up to 10 years of age. I'm on both the UK Landcruiser forums, both of which are quiet because rarely do these vehicles go wrong, most common faults will be on the forums if you care to have a poke nose. Probably like yourself i'm not having a battery car, not in the least interested, good luck to all those who can take advantage of the tax breaks and cheap overnight home charging, i don't blame you one bit the cynic in me wonders how many would be in use if BIK tax rates were same as ICE cars and fuel duties were added to electricity charges, just wish the battery enthusiasts weren't quite so smug about it all. Course if you've got the money it makes good sense to grab one of the last proper Outbacks, then enjoy sticking two fingers up to the battery car scam and all its profiteers and political gamers for many years to come.

An update of the issue with AT Oil Temp light flashing after AT Speed Sensor being replaced. End up I found a garage who helped me clear the signal, and that's rather humiliating - it just need to lift the car up and run computer diagnosis for the car to learn the new sensor. According to the garage, all 4 wheels has to be able to run without weight for the car to reset. It means the previous mechanic who helped me replace the faulty AT Speed Sensor in fact did he work neatly, but then because he did that only on a pair of service ramp at my driveway, he's unable to lift the whole car up to run the reset. But then either he doesn't know the trick or he purposefully kept silent as he doesn't have a car lift anyway.

Re introducing myself to forum members forgot all my details until today when they flagged when I tried to rejoin (what a pi770ck)

Finally, I've managed to fix the mobile not connecting issue. It turns out that the upper USB port had been abused by the previous owner so it didn't hold the cable succurely resulting in the map app on the phone disconnecting all the time. Fixed it with a good quality USB A to C cable and using the unused lower USB socket (under the display unit) instead.

thank you

it's the washer jet cover i think, just as an example https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/205044437045?chn=ps&_ul=GB&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1W3C0KZ6XTJe4XT-Bjxyxug0&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-173151-921626-2&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=205044437045&targetid=2407181292431&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=1006886&poi=9191192&campaignid=22444727999&mkgroupid=179474130633&rlsatarget=pla-2407181292431&abcId=10267179&merchantid=118945996&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwlMfABhCWARIsADGXdy9fleo4cK-iGrgwoaAelZPMcUhtrhTBQxpJFkf42g-5TnhGZeYCqG0aAgCEEALw_wcB

Morning, thanks for your feedback. When I get an opportunity, I'll investigate both options. The noise from the glove box occurs full or empty (mind you I do find the size of the glove box quite small compared to the previous model and other cars!) Cheers, Allan

I can't comment on a Levorg as haven't been in one but as for the dealer network and support from Subaru towards their product, my experience has been that Subaru in the UK is almost non-existent. Examples impacting me are closures recently of my two nearest dealers (Woodford and Maidstone) so there are none in Kent and only Robertsbridge in Sussex should I need them (rarely, prefer to do my own work where possible). Others experience may vary.

Many thanks Mr B. While I have the shocks off I will do corrosion management as per your post from 2016!;

I had a Legacy BP5 but sold that last year, ended going for a STI hatch but feel like I should have gone for one of these! Do miss the space

It's not on the road yet, as going for MOT tomorrow then I have to wait for the DVLA to register it. I'm coming directly from a BH5 Legacy twin turbo, but have owned a number of Subaru's over the years (see below)

Got it to Pass today while it was hot. Thanks

Good news, I got my maps back. The Subaru Customer Support replied quickly with a detailed step by step procedure to regain the maps. It looked a bit daunting but with patience it worked. The only hitch in the process is that the USB stick has to be plugged in after opening the map update window. It didn’t register when I first put it in. I will copy the steps below for anyone else to use. This is the email reply I received: Thank You for contacting Subaru (UK) Ltd. I will try and help you with your map issue, if you have lost your UK map, it sounds like you may have started a UK Map update 'in car' via a Wi-Fi connection, and then it lost connection/lost connectivity - the first thing it does is delete the current map, then apply the update, if the update fails, you have no map... The only way to fix this now is to carry out a FULL map reload via USB stick, using the maps website. I'm going to give you all the information, so apologies if you are much further ahead. For your information, the maps installed on your car can be updated to the latest map release using website: http://subaru-maps.com When using the subaru-maps website you create a user-account, add your vehicles VIN, type in your Request Code off the Head Unit to obtain your Authentication Code, then download and install the 'Map Downloader' app, open this and log in (also using the same credentials as the website) to view and physically download any updated maps available for your car. Once the USB stick has been created, insert it in the car, then type in the Activation Code you obtained from the website when prompted to authorise the install. I know this all sounds complicated, so I have attached some visual instructions as a PDF - I hope these help explain the process a little better. Lastly, the app and the QR code - unfortunately the app is only compatible for the EV vehicles, eg the SOLTERRA currently, it will not work with your Outback. I will attach the pdf mentioned above. Hope someone finds it useful. Activation Code on HARMAN maps-Dec-02-2024-03-43-40-7464-PM.pdf

Helensburgh Toyota no longer have the Subaru franchise and no longer does warranty work for Subaru.

Corrosion is number one thing look out for on these, surface rust is going be the norm and that can be surface treated, heavy corrosion can get quite expensive and if it not localised rust you be chasing you tail for no long term benefit . Also don't think newer means better, late 90's to 2002 era about some of best made . Do good checks using MOT history and good visual inspection and that means a real good long look and poke around underneath, rust doesn't always show itself but steel can be rotted and collapse under physical inspection . Is fairly easy find these pretty clean and not many keen on larger engines so prices can be low/easy haggle . I would be more sceptical of dealer sales than private and that comes from 30 years trade experience lol, 99% of the good stuff comes private sales, biggest ballache and pork pies always dealers .

JDM STi Block Fully Rebuilt Block with Forged parts, RCM Head Gasket & Cosworth Oil Pump & Timing Belt Xtreme Clutch & Flywheel 850CC Injectors Garrett MD321T Turbo HKS Intake Dritworks Intercooler Mishimoto Radiator Powdercoated White Hard Pipes 2.5″ Decat Downpipe to 3″ Afterburner Exhaust BC Coilovers Bola B1 Wheels with Yokoahama AE50 Tyres Perrin Rear Spoiler Brackets Carbon Diffuser ECUTEK Map by Andy Forrest - 370BHP/343 ftlbs @ 1.5bar cna go more, but running more than safe at this. From West Aberdeenshire