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Halfords want £44, Amazon £24. Thanks for the heads up

First few trips including motorway, city, minor roads, farm tracks, unmade lanes, snow and ice! Collected my 23 plate XV SE Premium a few weeks ago and immediately treated it to a new set of Continental All Season Contact 2. First impressions? Road holding is superb in a variety of conditions. Living in very rural mid Wales, have been able to test on muddy roads, very wet roads, through some floods, we even had two days of snow up to about 3 inches on the roads, then rutted farm tracks with frozen snow and broken ice. So far, all I can say is wow. My old car was a battered 2013 4wd Duster with full mud and snow off road tyres and that could cope with most conditions admirably. However, the XV was happy in all conditions so far with no complaints, plus it's a heck of a lot more comfortable than the old war horse! I had read about the CVT taking a bit of getting used to, the adaptive cruise being a pain, the safety stuff being a bit too safe, the acceleration being poor, the engine noisy, the infotainment system being glitchy, the music system being poor as well as many other complaints (mainly from motoring journalists). All I can say is that my initial experience is this:- The CVT is pretty smooth and Subaru have done a good job of making it feel like a conventional auto. Adaptive cruise is extremely controllable, all the way to standstill and pulling away again. Safety is superb, love the little lights on the mirrors letting you know something is alongside, the fast flash when someone is coming up fast or a pedestrian is walking behind you in a car park. The front view camera is superb when parking, as is the rear parking assist camera. Acceleration is smooth and steady, not the quickest, but that doesn't bother me. I'm not trying to win the RAC. The engine noise is acceptable, certainly not excessive on acceleration. No glitches with the Infotainment system so far, got a decent USB cable and the set up is easy and quick, Android Auto works well, the built in navigation is quick and easy to update to current maps, system is easily customisable, intuitive and the touch screen easy to navigate. Google Voice commands work well. DAB is decent with seamless transitions between digital and FM, essential round here as signal is sketchy. How loud do motoring journalists want their music systems? Up into the low 20's on the control and the music is loud and crisp with no distortion. Sat at around 15 is plenty loud enough for normal listening. Air con is fantastic, heated seats perfect, space great, boot is compact but sufficient, seats are comfortable, handling is out of this world for a high ground clearance car, all the toys work well, Eyesight system is superb. Fuel economy is around 40mpg so far, EV system around London was excellent this weekend and the thing I love the most is that I've only seen two other XV's so far! Cool Marque with a nice bit of exclusivity. Granted these are pretty early days, but so far very impressed and pleased with my purchase and looking forward to many happy miles in the Scooby. Off to Europe next week, so let's see how we handle autoroutes and cobbles!

Glad you like it, you missed out the best bit, heated seats, XV is the first car i've had thats had them hahaha

The TPMS sensors have batteries that only last 5 to 6 years and which aren't garage replacable so you have to buy a whole new sensor - a real rip-off. Subaru don't make these sensors, they re-badge Schrader ones and mark them up. Do your own research, but I believe the Schrader 3076 is probably the one used on used on recent Subaru - they are half the price of the 'genuine' Subaru ones. My go to garage says they 90% sure they'll be able to program the one I've bought as a test when I get it serviced at the end of the month - the nearest Subaru dealer want £500 to change all 4 !! BTW if the battery(s) are fine but on the way out, they will still trigger the TPMS warning when the weather is colder than 10C as I've found out with the recent mild weather.

Hello Shirley, I had the same issue with my Impreza ( XV is basically an Impreza with more ground clearance ). Key fob battery replacement every few months. What you need to do is put your fob into sleep mode when you lock the car. That way the car and fob will not be constantly communicating using up both the fob and main car battery. If when you lock your car you hold the lock button down and while keeping it down also press the unlock button twice - two flashes from the key fob red light will confirm the fob is now in sleep mode. To unlock do as usual. Press unlock once for the driver's door or twice for all doors. I hope this helps 🙂

There is a follow on update FC7BHM141-070 that has brought the new style display onto my 2022 Outback. Linked car to home WiFi to update.

soe photos for assistance - presents well but under the skin .. and over skin... issues for an enthusiast to bring it up to scratch are mentioned in my first post - offers considered

Is it correct type of hose, injection system fuel hose for moderm ethynol fuel blends is specific type and carries a SAE code printed along it's length - example: SAE J30R9 for a modern high standard non submursed hose, You do have ISO and DIN standards and you best cross referencing those as and if needed . Can be quite difficult getting right type/quality aftermarket as majority of common/easy sources likely stock cheapest garbage they can source and a lot will sell you wrong hose as they clueless or just want make money from selling something . As with most things you buy these days that need quality/design/function specifics you got be fussy on how you source them . Other things to check would be fuel system pressure being controlled correctly .

Strange, if the level is physically ok then could be a sensor problem.

Hello and happy to say I pick up my new to me 3 year old Outback next week. Have done a fair bit of research since we decided to buy it. At the moment considering the benefits of putting all season tyres on it and advice on the best options would be great. We live in Scotland and had several 4X4 over the years but the outback will be our first car with 4 wheel drive. Thanks Dave

Sad thing is it really shows how bad subaru UK is/was when info like this shows up.

She has finally arrived from Singapore now 😎 2.0 GT-S with 48,500kms on the clock

Thanks all for your input - sorry to hear about your issues @Justin Time - will keep a close eye on brake issues after this! and thanks @Hippo for the vote of confidence So I pulled the trigger on a low milage 2021 gen 5 which I picked up last week - I have to say I am absolutely loving it, and feel that I have absolutely made the right choice stepping into the Subaru club….after a week of driving even more perplexed by how much they get such middling reviews in the press….I’m not used to driving particularly fast cars, but it certainly feels more than punchy enough…it doesn’t particularly feel much slower in the real world than my wife’s xc40 which does 0-60 in sub-8.0 seconds.. aside from that great comfort, ridiculous amounts of space, and imo great sharp handling for such a big car (came with Michelin cross climates which might help) one happy buyer here!

She's green now 😂😂😂

Thanks I ordered one today from a Subaru Dealership. Only 18 of that sensor in the country. Got it far, far cheaper than what Halfords was quoting. Cheers

Thanks Mr B. Ill try to replace the unit. after that I will bypass… If you have any reliable resources on bypassing this unit Id be grateful to receive. i much appreciate you taking the time to respond to thread

Reality is it not that big an issue overcome one way or the other . Options are disabling the sigma m30 and bypassing immobiliser circuits (rejoining wires the 2 immobiliser circuits spliced into) . Trying to get the current Sigma working to some functional extent again or replacing the modules with known working used ones (needs be supplied with pin code and/or working fob allow easy programming). No need be a specialist in Subaru as this System is basically added after production line assembly and Sigma systems used on many vehicles in that era including a lot of euro cars . Basically any fairly competent auto electrician, alarm installer or decent mechanic can do this work as it nothing fancy and all you really need is a brain and a multimeter, wiring info is helpful but not a must . What I would do is do few basic things see if can get alarm to function, main thing that goes bad is the siren that located under the wiper plastic trim and sits in the cowl space, this has a P9 rechargable battery inside and they go bad and leak and decay the siren board causing various alarm function issues, just unplug the wire that goes to this siren and test alarm, Also test alarm by having ignition key on and pressing fob button and see if that turns immobilser off ! if does alarm may start function normally again if lucky . You can leave siren unplugged and only issue is you get no siren tones but all will function if rest of system good . If system seems totally unresponsive simplest option is bypassing the Sigma alarm and that pretty quick job to do, only downside is loose the remote central locking as sigma alarm install removed the factory subaru remote locking . The Sigma alarms are nothing but potential problems at 20 years old as it euro made crap, all the Subaru Japan electrics and electronics will be fine and they all independant of the Sigma (besides remote locking) . Even with the Sigma bypassed you still got the Subaru factory transponder key chip immobiliser and that good enough on an old basic Forester . Modern car thieves be lost at trying deal with a car with a physical key and a mechanical handbrake lol . M30 document attached which might be helpful and does include info on pin code use. changing pin code and programming remotes . m30.pdf

South lanarkshire

The parts are all individually balanced (or at least should be at manufacture stage if they of any good brand/supply source) clatter at tickover a problem but probably not balancing, bad balance be much much worse at higher revs .

Thats the one 😅 not actually that hard of a job we had it out in 3 hour just waiting on a breaker to get the engine out of the donor lad werent in the yard yesterday 🙈

Both euro 5 engines so shouldn't be massive differences. No mechanics wanted to do the job so started it myself. 4 of us on a scaffold tube lifted it straight out 😅

There are only 6 on Autotrader, most have zillions of miles on them. Nearest is at a garage 18 plate with 37k miles for £16714. Mines younger but slightly higher miles and a private sale so £12500

I'm sure you'll be fine if you just replace the subframe.

I've recently (November last year) brought a subaru legacy 1999. I'm looking for advise as to wheres best to get parts. In particular im looking for the limited style bumper (front and back), I have had a look online and fb market place but am unable to find any or i just keep missing them. Please let me know if anyone is selling them. The car is white but I dont mind what colour as im planing to get the whole car resprayed at some point anyway. Thanks in advance!

After 8 years you will prob wanna drain the fuel and put some fresh in before trying to fire it. 8 year old fuel is not exactly great lol

This era of hub design does not have an installed bearing on hub option . Just buy a proper quality bearing kit such as KOYO NTN etc, if super tight budget you could go BluePrint bearing via Carparts in Motion (20% off until 2nd of feb so bearing kit is like £18.65) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/317689424380 You can do these on car using bearing removal/install kits such as linked below . https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/397362941519 Use these bearing kits with some sense and they can do the job, can struggle removing a real old rusted in bearing without the likes of a proper long barrel air hammer assist getting it moving . You going want lateral link bushes and bolt too on these unless you blessed with fresh import or one that had recent work done involving these parts. Subaru genuine bush and bolt kit is cheap ... Be careful buying parts off eBay as lot of the more off brand and no name parts are total junk and don't last or fit/function well . It hard enough buying quality these days from well known brands and even oem/original is not what it was decade or 2 ago . In the Automotive repair world good parts knowledge has become a must as using whatever !Removed! comes easy and cheap works out real bad ...

Rust can happen, but doesn't normally cause big issues unless its sat for a long while (months). Is it the ABS kicking in and its a case of water getting into the sensor?

Hi pete. U still got ghe forestets. I. From longbenton. Just recently got an auto

That's I've read while researching before my purchase too I think because I haven't owned an STi before so I do get a bit of the 'grass is greener on the other side' vibes. The blue will always be a desire for me though haha 😄

Hi chaps after abit of help I’ve run out of things to try and I’m at my wits end 😂 so ill keep it short. my issue is hunting at idle and will sometimes stall , boost gauge also goes into negative when it’s hunting, I’ve replaced the manifold, all lines vac etc, pcv, idle control valve and MAF sensor, still the issue persists, today I cleaned the fuel pump filter in the tank it was pretty blocked to be fair, still the same, was told it’s a walboro 255 fuel pump but I’m not sure if anyone can confirm from piccy ? also tuck plugs out and they are black not wet but black and they where brand new. Maybe my issue is fuel related I’ve done some research and my regulator reads nearly 3 bar on tickover with vac line connected, this seems high to me ? anyway I’ve gone on abit if anyone’s got any advice pointers etc please let me know regards Lee

Hi , Harrogate roughly 1 hour 20 mins from us as we live close to Great Ayton in N Yorks but thanks anyway for information. We didn't get Free servicing but we paid £300 for three services we also got free mats and a full tank of fuel which I believe you normally pay for 👍, I suppose all subaru dealers are different depending on the sale. I've read that the lanoguard needs replacing every two years and it's a clear solution, it will be interesting how much I get quoted and how it compares to yours, congratulations on your 66 years young I only mentioned the "old git " as my darling wife of 36 years uses the term quite often especially since I retired 🙂 We intend to make this our last New car as my wife is taking early retirement in December 2026 so intend to do all I can to make it last , rust prevention, early oil changes etc, I too had Several Skodas, 2 early rapides in the early days of penniless marriage and my final one when we had some cash the Octavia Vrs which I absolutely adored, happy days gone by 🙂👍 Safe motoring and happy Xmas to you and your family 🎅🎅

Hope you get this sorted Bowesy. That's a delicious looking car, and I'm not envious one bit,.. No siree, not me :)

The above review gives some good advice. On my partner's new Skoda Karoq 4x4 we put these, last winter: https://www.pirelli.com/tyres/en-gb/car/catalogue/product/cinturato-all-season-sf-3 As the winter was mild, it wasn't really an opportunity to test them, but all seemed good anyway. On my Outback, I swop tyres: summer to full winter, about now, so we have one car at least at home which can get us in and out should things really get hairy and we need to venture out. We live in very rural north Pennines at just under 2000 feet altitude, up a steep narrow single track lane, so it can get interesting! Quite frankly, with milder winters and the vast improvement in all-season tyres, once my Michelin Alpin 5 SUV tyres are too worn, I'll probably buy some all seasons too.

+1 to that ... 3.0 EZ30D was a subaru gem, shame they didn't put it in the foresters (does fit fairly easily). Biggest disappointment was lack of nice manual gearbox option . Very versatile vehicle which could do a lot and they were cheap on the used market for a pretty solid reliable wagon, if they had some waxoil rust treatment in early years they last real well as mechanically and electronically the parts were proper quality manufacture unlike the 5h1te you buying new today .

What I do in these scenarios is first try knock on a 13mm, if that no go try some grip/rounded fastener sockets & if that still no go mig weld a nut to the plug head and semi gently air impact it out . If you got decent quality vise grip pliers you might do it with them but it likely chew it up real bad leaving it only suitable for welding nut on .

Its a 150 and nice one too without too many bells and whistles, personally i prefer cloth to leather. A 200 would have the V8 Diesel (the petrols listed are gery imports)and would typically be priced around that figure at 12 years old with 130k on the clock, lovely motor but for goodness sake. The one you've listed it would be interesting to know why its had 2 owners, might have been a demo, sometimes even the change of personal plate can come up as an ownership change, it looks in very good condition and unless something other than 2 owners is a cause for concern it would be one i'd be looking at, seems reasonably priced but there should be some room for wriggle in a private sale, in many ways i prefer a private sale because you get to see the previous owner and judge for yourself what the car has been through. After 2020 (from memory) they did various modifications to the engine, as you can see from one of the dash pics its got a manual DPF regen button which earlier models didn't get, though it shouldn't be needed because they've pretty well sorted earlier DPF issues by then, later ones like that 2022 model they've ironed out all the quirks. Remember the first place you go when looking at any LC underneath, that one looks clean enough to eat your dinner off any surface, it might be worth asking the seller if he'll take some random pics from underneath to send to you. 3ish years old, keep it serviced at Toyota you've got another 6 or 7 years makers warranty on all the important bits. Get your overalls on and get rustproofing you could have this or similar for umpteen years with only regular servicing and friction materials/tyre replacement (tyres are big and usually last between 40 and 50k) and when you decide to sell on LC enthusiasts will be beating a path to your door if its a genuine rust free example, the very high spec models tend to come with rear air suspension, which is great while it works but with the height sensors underneath unless you keep them protected can fail expensively,also the air pump isn't cheap, many high spec vehicles are retro fitted with steel springs and appropriate shocks via a kit as they age.

An update of the issue with AT Oil Temp light flashing after AT Speed Sensor being replaced. End up I found a garage who helped me clear the signal, and that's rather humiliating - it just need to lift the car up and run computer diagnosis for the car to learn the new sensor. According to the garage, all 4 wheels has to be able to run without weight for the car to reset. It means the previous mechanic who helped me replace the faulty AT Speed Sensor in fact did he work neatly, but then because he did that only on a pair of service ramp at my driveway, he's unable to lift the whole car up to run the reset. But then either he doesn't know the trick or he purposefully kept silent as he doesn't have a car lift anyway.

Finally, I've managed to fix the mobile not connecting issue. It turns out that the upper USB port had been abused by the previous owner so it didn't hold the cable succurely resulting in the map app on the phone disconnecting all the time. Fixed it with a good quality USB A to C cable and using the unused lower USB socket (under the display unit) instead.

I have a 2020 Gen 5 since new. Aside from some issues with the near side front brakes discs (see loooong rant from me elsewhere on this site) all has been good. Re my rant, I've just started taking the car to an independent Subaru specialist who are great, and the brake issue has been sorted I found the main dealers dreadful and Subaru UK (i.e the IM Group are appalling). I've clocked up 40,000 miles now. I really like the car (apart fromthe brake issues. Did I mentioned those? :) ). It's not very frugal mpg wise, but I knew that before i bought it. I get 31 miles average out of it. I am driving lots of B roads, very hilly and winding, and the car is often loaded (full size spare wheel, saddles, other equestrian stuff; spare tools, pump, emergency camping kit (!), etc.). I don't find it under powered at all, but then I'm no racer and this car isn't built for that. It compares to all my other cars well in performance (2x yetis, skoda octavias, etc.). Remember, it's permanent 4x4 not the weaker, less capable, 'on-demand haldex like systems the VAG have. It's great in winter with winter tyres on (or all-season). It has a massive load space. I'm 6' tall and regular car-camp in it in lay-bys or mountain roads and I can easily sleep in it with all the camping, climbing gear and such. This is my first automatic. I'd heard lots of negative things about CVTs, re performance. Never bothered me - all seems fine. Not sure it's the best for towing though due to cvt - but I guess you'll check out reviews with the Caravan club, etc. 200mm ground clearance (more on the newer Gen6) is great. Plus it has a 540 mm wade depth (still water) if needed - but I wouldn't want to push it. Odd things? All my older cars going back 15 years plus had a automatic service indicator and countdown - not on this! You have to check the on board car data, or remember yourself! Radio is rubbish compared to other cars I've had, but Carplay is good. Having an onboard satnav is great. I usually use my phone, but if out in the wilds of Scotland and places with no mobile signal the GPS works fine - and is essential at times). I don't think I'd take it to a standard garage, as there are query things that Subarus need. Like most modern cars it has 'sealed for life' components, like the CVT. This is obviously rubbish - nothing lasts for 'life', but should be ok for 100,000 miles, although if you're towing lots then this could be an issue. Overall, I love th car, but it's sad that the Gen7 won't be coming ot the UK or Europe now and when they stop making the Gen6 there will be no more Outbacks here, and only hybrid and EVs to choose from (no thanks!). Hope that helps.

thank you

it's the washer jet cover i think, just as an example https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/205044437045?chn=ps&_ul=GB&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1W3C0KZ6XTJe4XT-Bjxyxug0&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-173151-921626-2&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=205044437045&targetid=2407181292431&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=1006886&poi=9191192&campaignid=22444727999&mkgroupid=179474130633&rlsatarget=pla-2407181292431&abcId=10267179&merchantid=118945996&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwlMfABhCWARIsADGXdy9fleo4cK-iGrgwoaAelZPMcUhtrhTBQxpJFkf42g-5TnhGZeYCqG0aAgCEEALw_wcB

Morning, thanks for your feedback. When I get an opportunity, I'll investigate both options. The noise from the glove box occurs full or empty (mind you I do find the size of the glove box quite small compared to the previous model and other cars!) Cheers, Allan

I can't comment on a Levorg as haven't been in one but as for the dealer network and support from Subaru towards their product, my experience has been that Subaru in the UK is almost non-existent. Examples impacting me are closures recently of my two nearest dealers (Woodford and Maidstone) so there are none in Kent and only Robertsbridge in Sussex should I need them (rarely, prefer to do my own work where possible). Others experience may vary.

Many thanks Mr B. While I have the shocks off I will do corrosion management as per your post from 2016!;

I had a Legacy BP5 but sold that last year, ended going for a STI hatch but feel like I should have gone for one of these! Do miss the space

It has to be 5x114.3 stud pattern or it won't fit. You'll need to check the centre bore and offset - standard levorg numbers are 56.1 centre bore and 55 offset

Good news, I got my maps back. The Subaru Customer Support replied quickly with a detailed step by step procedure to regain the maps. It looked a bit daunting but with patience it worked. The only hitch in the process is that the USB stick has to be plugged in after opening the map update window. It didn’t register when I first put it in. I will copy the steps below for anyone else to use. This is the email reply I received: Thank You for contacting Subaru (UK) Ltd. I will try and help you with your map issue, if you have lost your UK map, it sounds like you may have started a UK Map update 'in car' via a Wi-Fi connection, and then it lost connection/lost connectivity - the first thing it does is delete the current map, then apply the update, if the update fails, you have no map... The only way to fix this now is to carry out a FULL map reload via USB stick, using the maps website. I'm going to give you all the information, so apologies if you are much further ahead. For your information, the maps installed on your car can be updated to the latest map release using website: http://subaru-maps.com When using the subaru-maps website you create a user-account, add your vehicles VIN, type in your Request Code off the Head Unit to obtain your Authentication Code, then download and install the 'Map Downloader' app, open this and log in (also using the same credentials as the website) to view and physically download any updated maps available for your car. Once the USB stick has been created, insert it in the car, then type in the Activation Code you obtained from the website when prompted to authorise the install. I know this all sounds complicated, so I have attached some visual instructions as a PDF - I hope these help explain the process a little better. Lastly, the app and the QR code - unfortunately the app is only compatible for the EV vehicles, eg the SOLTERRA currently, it will not work with your Outback. I will attach the pdf mentioned above. Hope someone finds it useful. Activation Code on HARMAN maps-Dec-02-2024-03-43-40-7464-PM.pdf

Helensburgh Toyota no longer have the Subaru franchise and no longer does warranty work for Subaru.

JDM STi Block Fully Rebuilt Block with Forged parts, RCM Head Gasket & Cosworth Oil Pump & Timing Belt Xtreme Clutch & Flywheel 850CC Injectors Garrett MD321T Turbo HKS Intake Dritworks Intercooler Mishimoto Radiator Powdercoated White Hard Pipes 2.5″ Decat Downpipe to 3″ Afterburner Exhaust BC Coilovers Bola B1 Wheels with Yokoahama AE50 Tyres Perrin Rear Spoiler Brackets Carbon Diffuser ECUTEK Map by Andy Forrest - 370BHP/343 ftlbs @ 1.5bar cna go more, but running more than safe at this. From West Aberdeenshire