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She has finally arrived from Singapore now 😎 2.0 GT-S with 48,500kms on the clock

Hurrah! The PIN Code from the dealer worked and the alarm / immobiliser was disabled. The problem with the alarm going off does persist however, if I re-arm the system. I think I will just use the key for a while and get used to that.. The other good news is that with the car starting again, I was able to drive to my local garage where she passed her MOT without a single advisory this morning! Thanks to Dales Automotive in Barnoldswick for supplying the code 🙂 I might update the thread if I can get to the bottom of this alarm problem...

Thanks for the info! I've sieved the document pack to no avail, and so have approached my local Subaru garage to request a PIN, using my V5 and photo ID to verify my ownership. Of course, there is still that thorny issue of what to do with the PIN when it arrives! I had a (very expensive!) autoelectrician look at the car this afternoon - he got as far as diagnosing that the 'Integrated Unit Module showed no communication with ECU intermittently' before my time ran out - and he departed to another job. Nice work if you can get it! The car is still doing the thing, locking using the key fob (sometimes not) but not unlocking remotely. When the key goes into the ignition and is turned, the alarm kicks in and the immobiliser does it's thing, so the car won't start. Very frustrating! It feels like it must be something simple! But with my luck it is probably something terminal instead! 😞 I'm off to London tomorrow, so no more updates till Weds, but maybe, just maybe, the PIN thing will move us forward... Watch this space 🙂

Do you have a keypad inside the little flap by drivers' right knee which gives access to the interior fuse box? If so it's likely an OEM (Thatcham?) fitting. If so do you know the 4 or 5 digit PIN and if so does inputting the code make any difference?

Merry Christmas to the members of the Subaru Owners Club Enjoy the festive break and see you back here in 2025

What I do in these scenarios is first try knock on a 13mm, if that no go try some grip/rounded fastener sockets & if that still no go mig weld a nut to the plug head and semi gently air impact it out . If you got decent quality vise grip pliers you might do it with them but it likely chew it up real bad leaving it only suitable for welding nut on .

Much appreciate your opinion and insights Judd.

An update of the issue with AT Oil Temp light flashing after AT Speed Sensor being replaced. End up I found a garage who helped me clear the signal, and that's rather humiliating - it just need to lift the car up and run computer diagnosis for the car to learn the new sensor. According to the garage, all 4 wheels has to be able to run without weight for the car to reset. It means the previous mechanic who helped me replace the faulty AT Speed Sensor in fact did he work neatly, but then because he did that only on a pair of service ramp at my driveway, he's unable to lift the whole car up to run the reset. But then either he doesn't know the trick or he purposefully kept silent as he doesn't have a car lift anyway.

Well I was happily moving my 2022 eboxer into the car port from the driveway when suddenly an orange symbol appeared on the dashboard marked GPF with the information icon. I waded through the owners manual and learnt the following. The car is fitted with a GPF and just like a diesel it may require regeneration if the car is driven in urban conditions a lot in low temperatures. Personally I'd no idea that petrol cars had these or that the last generaton of the XV were fitted with these ,but subsequently learnt this is apparently a mandatory device under EU regulations since 2022. Now here's the thing. To conduct the regeneration you have to drive the car in manual gear mode without using cruise control at between 2000 and 2500 revs at a speed above 60kph for about 30 minutes and periodically take your foot off the accelerator. I live just off the M5 motorway so drove it on there . After 15 miles and about 20 minutes the warning light went out. I understand if it won't clear it then becomes a dealer job to force a regeneration. I searched Youtube and could find very little information about the GPF. I did however find a video of a guy with a 2024 Kia who had encountered the same issue. In his case he had to drive 80 kilometres to get his car to complete the regeneration so I feel very relieved mine only took 20 minutes. Would I have bought my Subaru if I had realised this was going to be an iussue. Well I bought a hybrid to avoid diesels with a DPF and it would have been nice to know I might have issues in the winter with short journeys. By the way once the regeneration had finished I noticed that the performance of the car improved dramatically. I only use 'branded' petrol and every two or three tankfuls refuel with Shell V power. Hope this information is of use.

I have a 2020 Gen 5 since new. Aside from some issues with the near side front brakes discs (see loooong rant from me elsewhere on this site) all has been good. Re my rant, I've just started taking the car to an independent Subaru specialist who are great, and the brake issue has been sorted I found the main dealers dreadful and Subaru UK (i.e the IM Group are appalling). I've clocked up 40,000 miles now. I really like the car (apart fromthe brake issues. Did I mentioned those? :) ). It's not very frugal mpg wise, but I knew that before i bought it. I get 31 miles average out of it. I am driving lots of B roads, very hilly and winding, and the car is often loaded (full size spare wheel, saddles, other equestrian stuff; spare tools, pump, emergency camping kit (!), etc.). I don't find it under powered at all, but then I'm no racer and this car isn't built for that. It compares to all my other cars well in performance (2x yetis, skoda octavias, etc.). Remember, it's permanent 4x4 not the weaker, less capable, 'on-demand haldex like systems the VAG have. It's great in winter with winter tyres on (or all-season). It has a massive load space. I'm 6' tall and regular car-camp in it in lay-bys or mountain roads and I can easily sleep in it with all the camping, climbing gear and such. This is my first automatic. I'd heard lots of negative things about CVTs, re performance. Never bothered me - all seems fine. Not sure it's the best for towing though due to cvt - but I guess you'll check out reviews with the Caravan club, etc. 200mm ground clearance (more on the newer Gen6) is great. Plus it has a 540 mm wade depth (still water) if needed - but I wouldn't want to push it. Odd things? All my older cars going back 15 years plus had a automatic service indicator and countdown - not on this! You have to check the on board car data, or remember yourself! Radio is rubbish compared to other cars I've had, but Carplay is good. Having an onboard satnav is great. I usually use my phone, but if out in the wilds of Scotland and places with no mobile signal the GPS works fine - and is essential at times). I don't think I'd take it to a standard garage, as there are query things that Subarus need. Like most modern cars it has 'sealed for life' components, like the CVT. This is obviously rubbish - nothing lasts for 'life', but should be ok for 100,000 miles, although if you're towing lots then this could be an issue. Overall, I love th car, but it's sad that the Gen7 won't be coming ot the UK or Europe now and when they stop making the Gen6 there will be no more Outbacks here, and only hybrid and EVs to choose from (no thanks!). Hope that helps.

Not had my Outback that long. It is a 2021 petrol, bought after a 2017 diesel Outback had emission sensor problems. I have had battery charging and mysterious headlight warning issues - see my earlier posts, but I do not think that is common. Although there are plenty of threads out there about batteries draining flat if you go down that rabbit hole. Mpg is about mid thirties with careful driving. Have had 42mpg on a long journey - a quiet M74 run to Glasgow on cruise control set at 60-65mph. Otherwise low 30’s. And lower if you use all 175 ponies. I like the car. Good luck. Frank

thank you

it's the washer jet cover i think, just as an example https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/205044437045?chn=ps&_ul=GB&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1W3C0KZ6XTJe4XT-Bjxyxug0&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-173151-921626-2&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=205044437045&targetid=2407181292431&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=1006886&poi=9191192&campaignid=22444727999&mkgroupid=179474130633&rlsatarget=pla-2407181292431&abcId=10267179&merchantid=118945996&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwlMfABhCWARIsADGXdy9fleo4cK-iGrgwoaAelZPMcUhtrhTBQxpJFkf42g-5TnhGZeYCqG0aAgCEEALw_wcB

Morning, thanks for your feedback. When I get an opportunity, I'll investigate both options. The noise from the glove box occurs full or empty (mind you I do find the size of the glove box quite small compared to the previous model and other cars!) Cheers, Allan

TBH subaru has never been a big seller in the uk, they arn't exactly customer focused like most other brands, my parents just picked up their brand new crosstrek a few weeks back and the choice's they had to make to select it were very limited, limited colour availability even from the very small options lisy, only 2 trim levels (which is basicly cloth and no sunroof or leather seats and sunroof) and only cvt gearbox creates a very limited customer base. Don't get me wrong, the crosstrek is a very nice car, its just from a customer experiance its you get what you get.

I can't comment on a Levorg as haven't been in one but as for the dealer network and support from Subaru towards their product, my experience has been that Subaru in the UK is almost non-existent. Examples impacting me are closures recently of my two nearest dealers (Woodford and Maidstone) so there are none in Kent and only Robertsbridge in Sussex should I need them (rarely, prefer to do my own work where possible). Others experience may vary.

Many thanks Mr B. While I have the shocks off I will do corrosion management as per your post from 2016!;

2 use KYB brand. if wait for ebay 20% coupon code you can get them quite cheap ...

I had a Legacy BP5 but sold that last year, ended going for a STI hatch but feel like I should have gone for one of these! Do miss the space

It's not on the road yet, as going for MOT tomorrow then I have to wait for the DVLA to register it. I'm coming directly from a BH5 Legacy twin turbo, but have owned a number of Subaru's over the years (see below)

It has to be 5x114.3 stud pattern or it won't fit. You'll need to check the centre bore and offset - standard levorg numbers are 56.1 centre bore and 55 offset

New rear subframe with all new arms, bolts and hubs almost ready to transplant into the car, that will hack the mot tester of as he won’t be able to rust rear subframe comments anymore!

Got it to Pass today while it was hot. Thanks

Thanks mate. It was a very nice journey home and a pleasure doing business with you. I hope the new Levorg goes well!

Sold now - hope you had a great journey home!

Aftermarket quality in suspension parts is a major concern . It also a major safety factor and impacts driving/performing quality of vehicle . ICP aftermarket part quality is a bit hit and miss as they not as fussy as use to be and the aftermarket manufacturing quality is down the toilet these days even on previous well rated major car part brands . So if buying from ICP you wise call them and ask what brand/manufacturer the part is rather than assuming it good . What I do on these if the original arm is not seriously rusted is fit new bushes and new genuine subaru ball joint too. We get the original balljoints for example for about 16 quid so it not worth buying aftermarket to save few quid on a part that serious safety component and needs be proper quality have half a chance of decent service life . For complete arm you could look at ACKOJA, they made in Korea by OEM's for car parts so quality not the worst . MOOG is another option for suspension parts that not the worst . We have to deal with this poor quality part concern every day and aftermarket part quality is the biggest problem we face today, takes lot of knowledge and time keep on top of what good/bad and price effective, you also always getting customers wondering why part bill what it is when they could of got it off eBay or Amazon for 3rd of the cost lol . Lot of the cheap parts are trash straight out the box and either don't fit, fit/function poorly or pretty much failed in 12 to 18 months ... Buy wisely and refurbish original parts when possible .

Thanks Samwell , the dealer managed to get some for me

Many thanks Justin Time: It's the Wifi !!! See image attachment. My tools: https://www.ctek.com/uk/battery-chargers-12v-24v/mxs-5-0-uk https://carbatterygeek.co.uk/bm6-battery-monitor-review-12v-car/ I hope you can read the annotation, but it shows the battery dropping back to around 12.2V only 30hrs after a full charge (and presumably on its way to totally discharged). As soon as the WiFi is disabled it holds steady. So, since I turned the Wifi off, it has not dropped another decimal volt for 10hrs. I'll get it back to full charge again with the CTEK and see if this continues. I know this little BM6 device is not totally scientific but it's cheap and useful and saves the hassle of constant multimeter readings. The values it presents are two decimal places the same as the value on the cigarette lighter voltage monitor. I've never had to do this sort of stuff in 40yrs of owning cars. I don't think it's just Subaru.

Afternoon all, Just joined the forum after buying a 2012 WRX STi 340r Prodrive. Absolutely lovely car and very much enjoying driving and owning it. Though got a few questions! It has a semi forged engine, done around 45k now on 86k, according to the history its always been serviced with 10/40 oil fully synthetic. Would this be the correct grade? Seems quite thick to me given my old turbo 86 was 5/30 and my 25 year old Land Rover is 5/30 as well 😅 Could anyone direct me to a service schedule for the diffs and gearbox, and what oil I should be using. Looks to be 75w/90. Will be doing the fuel filter as well, any special tools needed for this? Looking to change all the oils and fluids soon as I can, so I can start with a everything fresh! No stranger to mechanics, been working and building Land Rovers for the last 15 years! Thank you, looking forward to it!

Hello Brack, No, the key fob doesn't deactivate the alarm or unlock the car. I have the original PIN now from a local Subaru dealer, so will give that a go in the morning. I have the alarm instruction booklet so will follow the guidance on page 10 as you say - as long as someone hasn't changed the PIN somewhere along the way - it is a 15 year old car I suppose! Report to follow 🙂

The pin number comes from the factory on small silver sticker labels - they could still be in your handbook wallet - mine are stapled to a form called "Subaru UK Certificate of Compliance" I found mine in the Alarm System Operating Instructions booklet. - worth a quick look.

Hello Brack, and thanks for replying 🙂 Replaced both batteries with new. No difference. Car still doesn't unlock on key fob, and alarm goes off / immobiliser kicks in when using key to unlock and enter. Sounds like something has fried itself at the receiver end. I don't know if it is a factory fitted or after market system (which apparently makes a difference) but it is dead either way. And now I can't find anyone locally to have a look at it, as all the so called autoelectricians are either booked up for weeks, or not willing to come out and want me to take the car to them (I suppose I could push it 😞 ) Blackburn really is a wasteland these days..

It looked narrow, you had a sensible speed .. nice video.

I'd try putting a new battery into one of the fobs anyway and try it - look for the sell by date on the new battery blister pack - your 4 month old battery could be a lot older than you think, it could be months and months before they are sold and you end up with a battery that wont last as long as it should.

Nice little lane mate, lovely to see Forester's out and about 👍

Thanks Linx .I seached for weeks before I got some real help from your stuning post!.

Thanks very much for the sound advice which I will follow. Also bought a jump start battery pack – belt and braces. A bit disappointing to hear it is common issue. But I have some good news about the loss of my satnav maps which you can see in my other post.

On a similar theme, I was in my local Subaru dealer this morning and saw a new sign encouraging me to update my details on the Subaru website so I would always receive special offers, latest news etc. I scanned the QR code on the sign only to find it sent me to the same “Sorry - page no longer exists”……..

My only experience of driving an e-boxer forester was two years ago as a courtesy car while my OB was being serviced. The Forester had less than 200 miles on the clock and it was the black 'sports' (?) version. First impressions (sitting in it) was that it seemed very comfortable and light. However, driving it was not pleasant. It was really slow, tank like, when accelerating from junctions and when pulling away at roundabouts when you wanted to join the flow of traffic. Noticeable slower than the OB. The member of staff I spoke to afterwards also agreed that they found the OB a much more pleasant drive. The stats state: Forester 0 - 62 11.8 secs Outback 0 - 62 10.8 secs. Neither are speedy cars of course, but the Forester was a sloth - that 1 sec difference was marked. Having said that, you do see them out and about so perhaps their owners are very content. Another negative, for me, is that the mpg for the OB is 32.8 while for the Forester it's still just 34.7 mpg. Hardly a great saving. Must be those heavy batteries. Plus you have a smaller fuel tank (48 litres vs 63 litres) in the Forester due to the batteries, so you get hardly much better mpg and you have a much reduced range. So if you're prepared to go slower and have to fill up more often on longer journeys...! Another big negative for me, is that you can't fit a spare wheel in the Forester (again because of the batteries). No car can pretend to offer aspirations of off-road capabilities if a spare isn't available. Overall I think the Forester looks the biz, but unless they offer a none hybrid and also either at least a 2.5 litre engine, or a turbo option, it's not for me. It'll be interesting to see how you find the Forester after the legacy for driving experience.

After a couple of months searching for a low mileage early Forester, and picked up this 53k miles one owner SF5 GLS in white. It seems to be in great condition and I’m looking forward to getting some miles under the wheels. The only issue I have found is that the radio aerial seems reluctant to come up when the radio is turned on. I’ve not had a Subaru before, but had Land Rovers for 35 years or so. So there will be a lot to learn. The forum will be really useful. Pete.

I've just listed the no longer needed winter wheel/tyre set from my Forester in the parts for sale section.

Thanks for that-much appreciated

I evaluated the new 2024 eBoxer Crosstrek Limited this week and feel that Subaru marketing has made a mistake. I was comparing it against my 2022 eBoxer XV SE, as a possible trade in. Downsides: 1. Engine bhp down to 136 from my XV's 147. 2. CVT paddle shift not available. Shortcomings: 1. Front camera dropped. 2. No wheel jack. 3. Much reduced number of power connectors for gadgets - only one 12v socket that is awkwardly located (XV has two, one at front, one in arm rest). Two USBs, one A & one C for rear passengers. Two USBs, one A & one C at front. (My XV has four USBs, two at front & two in arm rest. These can be adapted to Cs via the connecting cable, which of course is essential to connect the gadget whether SatNav, Dashcam, phone). 4. The roof bars have a different shape so my XV roof rails aren't compatible. Then comes styling and the awful touch screen, that is enormous at over 11 inches in portrait height. 5. The headlight bezel has been given a frog-eye form factor, like Nissan Juke. It is ugly against the more aerodynamic, smooth bezel of the XV headlights. 6. Surely, every driver now knows how difficult it can be to tap a touchscreen icon sweetspot in a moving car? Why is this? Because, the majority of our population is right-handed. So, for UK drivers, brain/hand coordination for one's left hand is less developed. Similarly for muscle development and coordination. So many (too many) function controls have been moved from knobs and switches onto the touch screen, with some being two tiers in. This means that a driver must take eyes off the road to effect their desired change, perhaps more than once in succession. Legislators have ruled against this with severe penalties for being distracted by using a mobile phone, for example. So it has always surprised me that this technology has been permitted within vehicle homologation applicable in UK. Knobs and switches can be used without needing to look at them - a bit like giant brail. Subaru made another big mistake in the Levorg. I bought one of these in 2016. It had a great 1600cc turbo engine, as I recall about 150-60 bhp. When I looked at this model a year or two later the turbo had been deleted leaving the engine with a miserly 89 bhp. No wonder it did not survive. I have owned six Subaru since 2006 - Impreza STi UK Spec, diesel Forester, XV, Levorg, XV, eBoxer XV. I might now be looking to change my allegiance if Subaru continues to design in disappoint.

Looks like wrx that has had some badges and a vin plate thrown at it. The VIN is a UK vin number, applied model code does indeed come back as a wrx sti prodrive uk, however i suspect its a ringer. The parts i notice that look wrong, running gear (rear diff is a R160 but should be R180) (2001 wont have DCCD even if it was an sti) gear stick should be lift reverse type, this one isnt so its a 5 speed box engine, no red inlet, missing alternator cover + various other covers and such interior, seats, (carpet was grey for the sti model so is correct) dash (dials should be blue, no intercooler spray buttons) fog lights brakes Wheels rear spoiler is STI replica (light should be at bottom for that year and angle is wrong) WRX headlights rear lights are from a later model one side of the front wing has a reflector, other carbon insert, should be carbon both sides The longer i look more i find, underside looks rather ropey, and for an sti its missing a digit in the price (Although not in the best condition). Short version, walk away. Just for ref, a genuine sti for sale https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202407302305530?sort=relevance&advertising-location=at_cars&make=Subaru&min-engine-power=250&model=Impreza&postcode=DE5 9TU&year-from=2001&year-to=2002&fromsra

Thanks all for your input - sorry to hear about your issues @Justin Time - will keep a close eye on brake issues after this! and thanks @Hippo for the vote of confidence So I pulled the trigger on a low milage 2021 gen 5 which I picked up last week - I have to say I am absolutely loving it, and feel that I have absolutely made the right choice stepping into the Subaru club….after a week of driving even more perplexed by how much they get such middling reviews in the press….I’m not used to driving particularly fast cars, but it certainly feels more than punchy enough…it doesn’t particularly feel much slower in the real world than my wife’s xc40 which does 0-60 in sub-8.0 seconds.. aside from that great comfort, ridiculous amounts of space, and imo great sharp handling for such a big car (came with Michelin cross climates which might help) one happy buyer here!

Corrosion is number one thing look out for on these, surface rust is going be the norm and that can be surface treated, heavy corrosion can get quite expensive and if it not localised rust you be chasing you tail for no long term benefit . Also don't think newer means better, late 90's to 2002 era about some of best made . Do good checks using MOT history and good visual inspection and that means a real good long look and poke around underneath, rust doesn't always show itself but steel can be rotted and collapse under physical inspection . Is fairly easy find these pretty clean and not many keen on larger engines so prices can be low/easy haggle . I would be more sceptical of dealer sales than private and that comes from 30 years trade experience lol, 99% of the good stuff comes private sales, biggest ballache and pork pies always dealers .

Lookin nice. Don't forget the cardinal rule... always treat Mistress Scooby better than the mrs. I've spent more on mine than I have the Mrs in 19 years🤣

M30 alarm document link > https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7Ub2apq5-pfcjJhSm5XUHNyUzQ/view?usp=sharing

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