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She has finally arrived from Singapore now 😎 2.0 GT-S with 48,500kms on the clock

Hurrah! The PIN Code from the dealer worked and the alarm / immobiliser was disabled. The problem with the alarm going off does persist however, if I re-arm the system. I think I will just use the key for a while and get used to that.. The other good news is that with the car starting again, I was able to drive to my local garage where she passed her MOT without a single advisory this morning! Thanks to Dales Automotive in Barnoldswick for supplying the code 🙂 I might update the thread if I can get to the bottom of this alarm problem...

Thanks for the info! I've sieved the document pack to no avail, and so have approached my local Subaru garage to request a PIN, using my V5 and photo ID to verify my ownership. Of course, there is still that thorny issue of what to do with the PIN when it arrives! I had a (very expensive!) autoelectrician look at the car this afternoon - he got as far as diagnosing that the 'Integrated Unit Module showed no communication with ECU intermittently' before my time ran out - and he departed to another job. Nice work if you can get it! The car is still doing the thing, locking using the key fob (sometimes not) but not unlocking remotely. When the key goes into the ignition and is turned, the alarm kicks in and the immobiliser does it's thing, so the car won't start. Very frustrating! It feels like it must be something simple! But with my luck it is probably something terminal instead! 😞 I'm off to London tomorrow, so no more updates till Weds, but maybe, just maybe, the PIN thing will move us forward... Watch this space 🙂

Do you have a keypad inside the little flap by drivers' right knee which gives access to the interior fuse box? If so it's likely an OEM (Thatcham?) fitting. If so do you know the 4 or 5 digit PIN and if so does inputting the code make any difference?

Merry Christmas to the members of the Subaru Owners Club Enjoy the festive break and see you back here in 2025

Hi, I have just bought a 2001 JDM Impreza WRX STI

I've just changed from a 2020 Generation 5 Outback to a 2025 Generation 6, and I've noticed the very same thing, so it's not just your car. I'm going to have to see if I can get used to this in practice for a bit, but yes, I used to like the 'soft click', 3 or 4 indications, for lane changes which corrected itself off.

I've been using Continental All Season Contact, and Goodyear vector all seasons on my Outback and Levorg for the last few years, also in rural Wales, and they've been faultless, especially in slimy wet conditions. Highly recommended.

+1 to that ... 3.0 EZ30D was a subaru gem, shame they didn't put it in the foresters (does fit fairly easily). Biggest disappointment was lack of nice manual gearbox option . Very versatile vehicle which could do a lot and they were cheap on the used market for a pretty solid reliable wagon, if they had some waxoil rust treatment in early years they last real well as mechanically and electronically the parts were proper quality manufacture unlike the 5h1te you buying new today .

Bought a Field, not brand new but no regrets. Really nice car to drive did think about the premium however being a Scotsman didn't fancy the high road tax, but there again the memory seats would have been nice. Looking forward to lots of snow ❄️

Personally, I'd stay clear of the diesel engines. Subaru never really got them working as well as the petrol ones. I had a petrol 18 reg XV for 6 years, one of the best cars I've had.

What I do in these scenarios is first try knock on a 13mm, if that no go try some grip/rounded fastener sockets & if that still no go mig weld a nut to the plug head and semi gently air impact it out . If you got decent quality vise grip pliers you might do it with them but it likely chew it up real bad leaving it only suitable for welding nut on .

Hey folks, hope it's okay to jump on and post here. Long time Subaru owner and all round fan, but sadly it's time to let my lovely Levorg STi go to a new home. I have listed the car on Piston Heads but will include the details here. Please reach out if you have any questions or are interested. --- This Levorg STi was imported on my behalf by Torque GT around 3 years ago. I have loved every second of ownership and unfortunately personal circumstances force a reluctant sale. It has carried me through a pretty tumultuous time in my life! Having previously owned an imported Legacy GT, I knew I wanted something of similar performance with a few more comforts. The Levorg STi delivered. To me this has been a modern, fairly luxurious car, whilst still turning heads and getting a few smiles from the missus out of twisty lanes. The car has just had a service in preparation for its next owner, and some small paint smart repairs alongside a polish. MOT until October. This is a very honest car. It had Michelin Cross Climates put on it last year and they still have plenty of tread, paired with the 300hp this puts out you're guaranteed to have a little fun. Packed tonne of features (and especially the Subaru Eyesight system which is fantastic), some I may forget to list: - Full red leather interior with electric moving front seats - Heated seats - Power folding mirrors - Blindspot detection in the mirrors - Automatic headlights, with automatic high-beam/dipping - Rain sensors and automatic wipers - Adaptive cruise control - Lane assist (a personal favourite) - Lane exit detection and warning - Dual climate control - Parking sensors and reverse camera - Keyless entry Get in touch via SMS or WhatsApp please 07827019317.

I recently spoke to a member of the sales staff at a UK Subaru dealership who informed me that as of the end of this year there will be no more new Subaru Outbacks (petrol) sold in the UK. There will be an electric option (yeah, well yipppeeee :( ). Don't you just adore the Great Global Climate Catastrophe Hoax supporters and their desperate ideological attempts to completely donald duck the whole car industry and empty fun and choice out of everyone'a lives . Now I'm not sure if I should try and time it so I buy one of the last ones, or just buy a Toyota Land cruiser (not the recent model!). Can't seem to see much else on the market that has above average car ground clearance, and permanent 4x4 functionality.

Much appreciate your opinion and insights Judd.

Its a 150 and nice one too without too many bells and whistles, personally i prefer cloth to leather. A 200 would have the V8 Diesel (the petrols listed are gery imports)and would typically be priced around that figure at 12 years old with 130k on the clock, lovely motor but for goodness sake. The one you've listed it would be interesting to know why its had 2 owners, might have been a demo, sometimes even the change of personal plate can come up as an ownership change, it looks in very good condition and unless something other than 2 owners is a cause for concern it would be one i'd be looking at, seems reasonably priced but there should be some room for wriggle in a private sale, in many ways i prefer a private sale because you get to see the previous owner and judge for yourself what the car has been through. After 2020 (from memory) they did various modifications to the engine, as you can see from one of the dash pics its got a manual DPF regen button which earlier models didn't get, though it shouldn't be needed because they've pretty well sorted earlier DPF issues by then, later ones like that 2022 model they've ironed out all the quirks. Remember the first place you go when looking at any LC underneath, that one looks clean enough to eat your dinner off any surface, it might be worth asking the seller if he'll take some random pics from underneath to send to you. 3ish years old, keep it serviced at Toyota you've got another 6 or 7 years makers warranty on all the important bits. Get your overalls on and get rustproofing you could have this or similar for umpteen years with only regular servicing and friction materials/tyre replacement (tyres are big and usually last between 40 and 50k) and when you decide to sell on LC enthusiasts will be beating a path to your door if its a genuine rust free example, the very high spec models tend to come with rear air suspension, which is great while it works but with the height sensors underneath unless you keep them protected can fail expensively,also the air pump isn't cheap, many high spec vehicles are retro fitted with steel springs and appropriate shocks via a kit as they age.

Thanks for that info Judd and I will check out the forums too. I've been looking at something a bit like this one https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202505052055417?sort=price-desc&searchId=3ad54a54-2151-4185-8be2-d501efa62a98&advertising-location=at_cars&fuel-type=Diesel&make=Toyota&maximum-mileage=60000&model=Land Cruiser&page=4&postcode=DL12 0QY&year-from=2020&year-to=2024&fromsra Is that the 150 or 200 series? I'd not go for that one (too many owners for the age and it's a private sale, etc.) , just using it as an example. The invincible models seems to attract a hefty mark up - worth it? (I hope you're going to say no :) ) More choice with the Active trim too. Hardly any Icons trims. I like the utility version, but I don't think I'd convince my partner, with just 2 seats, as she's super sociable !

I have a 20 year old (prado sized) Landcruiser 120 LC5, been running full size Toyota 4x4s since the mid 90s and have yet to be let down by one, alternator packed up on the present steed a few years ago but she still never failed to proceed and i stuck a recon on for £126 ish, it'll probably still be going when they plant me. Underbody mainly chassis corrosion is what kills them in Britain, especially if they've previously lived in Scotland, mine is still mainly rust free because i plaster the undersides in ACF50/chain lube/marine grease every year, filthy job but worth doing, looking at MOT histories of other 120s and the very similar later 150s underbody corrosion features too often on the usual stuff, inner sills are also exposed to the elements and the rear axle casing will rot too, rear aircon pipes are alloy which again corrodes and is an expensive re-piping exercise, ask me how i know this. If you decide to get a late 150 series suggest you check it very carefully underneath and start rustproofing the day you get it home, other than rust they are good vehicles which seldom cause any issues if the servicing is kept up, seriously expensive used now and only going one way, the prices being asked for the V8 engined 200 series can only be described as ludicrous and whilst its a great vehicle its very technical too and also suffers the underbody tin worm issues which also affects the pipework of the hydraulic suspension which can cost serious money to repair, again mucho greasing and oiling is called for. Servicing is simple enough for most things DIY, but remember Toyota warranty is topped up every year if you get it serviced by them up to 10 years of age. I'm on both the UK Landcruiser forums, both of which are quiet because rarely do these vehicles go wrong, most common faults will be on the forums if you care to have a poke nose. Probably like yourself i'm not having a battery car, not in the least interested, good luck to all those who can take advantage of the tax breaks and cheap overnight home charging, i don't blame you one bit the cynic in me wonders how many would be in use if BIK tax rates were same as ICE cars and fuel duties were added to electricity charges, just wish the battery enthusiasts weren't quite so smug about it all. Course if you've got the money it makes good sense to grab one of the last proper Outbacks, then enjoy sticking two fingers up to the battery car scam and all its profiteers and political gamers for many years to come.

An update of the issue with AT Oil Temp light flashing after AT Speed Sensor being replaced. End up I found a garage who helped me clear the signal, and that's rather humiliating - it just need to lift the car up and run computer diagnosis for the car to learn the new sensor. According to the garage, all 4 wheels has to be able to run without weight for the car to reset. It means the previous mechanic who helped me replace the faulty AT Speed Sensor in fact did he work neatly, but then because he did that only on a pair of service ramp at my driveway, he's unable to lift the whole car up to run the reset. But then either he doesn't know the trick or he purposefully kept silent as he doesn't have a car lift anyway.

Re introducing myself to forum members forgot all my details until today when they flagged when I tried to rejoin (what a pi770ck)

Finally, I've managed to fix the mobile not connecting issue. It turns out that the upper USB port had been abused by the previous owner so it didn't hold the cable succurely resulting in the map app on the phone disconnecting all the time. Fixed it with a good quality USB A to C cable and using the unused lower USB socket (under the display unit) instead.

Well I was happily moving my 2022 eboxer into the car port from the driveway when suddenly an orange symbol appeared on the dashboard marked GPF with the information icon. I waded through the owners manual and learnt the following. The car is fitted with a GPF and just like a diesel it may require regeneration if the car is driven in urban conditions a lot in low temperatures. Personally I'd no idea that petrol cars had these or that the last generaton of the XV were fitted with these ,but subsequently learnt this is apparently a mandatory device under EU regulations since 2022. Now here's the thing. To conduct the regeneration you have to drive the car in manual gear mode without using cruise control at between 2000 and 2500 revs at a speed above 60kph for about 30 minutes and periodically take your foot off the accelerator. I live just off the M5 motorway so drove it on there . After 15 miles and about 20 minutes the warning light went out. I understand if it won't clear it then becomes a dealer job to force a regeneration. I searched Youtube and could find very little information about the GPF. I did however find a video of a guy with a 2024 Kia who had encountered the same issue. In his case he had to drive 80 kilometres to get his car to complete the regeneration so I feel very relieved mine only took 20 minutes. Would I have bought my Subaru if I had realised this was going to be an iussue. Well I bought a hybrid to avoid diesels with a DPF and it would have been nice to know I might have issues in the winter with short journeys. By the way once the regeneration had finished I noticed that the performance of the car improved dramatically. I only use 'branded' petrol and every two or three tankfuls refuel with Shell V power. Hope this information is of use.

As long as you arnt ripping off members its all good 🙂

TBH subaru has never been a big seller in the uk, they arn't exactly customer focused like most other brands, my parents just picked up their brand new crosstrek a few weeks back and the choice's they had to make to select it were very limited, limited colour availability even from the very small options lisy, only 2 trim levels (which is basicly cloth and no sunroof or leather seats and sunroof) and only cvt gearbox creates a very limited customer base. Don't get me wrong, the crosstrek is a very nice car, its just from a customer experiance its you get what you get.

I can't comment on a Levorg as haven't been in one but as for the dealer network and support from Subaru towards their product, my experience has been that Subaru in the UK is almost non-existent. Examples impacting me are closures recently of my two nearest dealers (Woodford and Maidstone) so there are none in Kent and only Robertsbridge in Sussex should I need them (rarely, prefer to do my own work where possible). Others experience may vary.

Many thanks Mr B. While I have the shocks off I will do corrosion management as per your post from 2016!;

It's not on the road yet, as going for MOT tomorrow then I have to wait for the DVLA to register it. I'm coming directly from a BH5 Legacy twin turbo, but have owned a number of Subaru's over the years (see below)

New rear subframe with all new arms, bolts and hubs almost ready to transplant into the car, that will hack the mot tester of as he won’t be able to rust rear subframe comments anymore!

Thanks mate. It was a very nice journey home and a pleasure doing business with you. I hope the new Levorg goes well!

Sold now - hope you had a great journey home!

Thanks Samwell , the dealer managed to get some for me

https://www.gilesgateautocare.co.uk I took my car here in for its annual service and MOT in early December. I'd been fed-up with the quality of work at 3 previous Subaru dealerships. So now we're 3 months down the road, literally, and all is well. Nice bunch of guys, and they even wiped off the water stains in the engine bay and gave the car a sprucing up. It's only a 10 min. stroll into the centre of lovely Hexham while you wait, so really convenient.

Is a few slight variations in subframes depending on exact months built and regional market specific models but general rule of thumb if part off same region and same year it will fit, when those factors vary you may get issue or few to make it fit but most of the time biggest part of it still be same ...

Afternoon all, Just joined the forum after buying a 2012 WRX STi 340r Prodrive. Absolutely lovely car and very much enjoying driving and owning it. Though got a few questions! It has a semi forged engine, done around 45k now on 86k, according to the history its always been serviced with 10/40 oil fully synthetic. Would this be the correct grade? Seems quite thick to me given my old turbo 86 was 5/30 and my 25 year old Land Rover is 5/30 as well 😅 Could anyone direct me to a service schedule for the diffs and gearbox, and what oil I should be using. Looks to be 75w/90. Will be doing the fuel filter as well, any special tools needed for this? Looking to change all the oils and fluids soon as I can, so I can start with a everything fresh! No stranger to mechanics, been working and building Land Rovers for the last 15 years! Thank you, looking forward to it!

I've always had to slam the tailgate door down hard for the latch to catch closed - found the weatherstrip that runs along the bottom was not seated properly a while ago but even after putting that right it wasn't much better. A crack even started to appear in the plastic bumper cover under the o/s tail light with all the slamming down. Found that when I open the tailgate - if I hold the release button in for longer (3 to 5 seconds) it closes much better with a lot less force. Hope this helps anyone with the same problem - just have to fix the crack now 🙂

Hello Brack, No, the key fob doesn't deactivate the alarm or unlock the car. I have the original PIN now from a local Subaru dealer, so will give that a go in the morning. I have the alarm instruction booklet so will follow the guidance on page 10 as you say - as long as someone hasn't changed the PIN somewhere along the way - it is a 15 year old car I suppose! Report to follow 🙂

The pin number comes from the factory on small silver sticker labels - they could still be in your handbook wallet - mine are stapled to a form called "Subaru UK Certificate of Compliance" I found mine in the Alarm System Operating Instructions booklet. - worth a quick look.

Hello Brack, and thanks for replying 🙂 Replaced both batteries with new. No difference. Car still doesn't unlock on key fob, and alarm goes off / immobiliser kicks in when using key to unlock and enter. Sounds like something has fried itself at the receiver end. I don't know if it is a factory fitted or after market system (which apparently makes a difference) but it is dead either way. And now I can't find anyone locally to have a look at it, as all the so called autoelectricians are either booked up for weeks, or not willing to come out and want me to take the car to them (I suppose I could push it 😞 ) Blackburn really is a wasteland these days..

It looked narrow, you had a sensible speed .. nice video.

I'd try putting a new battery into one of the fobs anyway and try it - look for the sell by date on the new battery blister pack - your 4 month old battery could be a lot older than you think, it could be months and months before they are sold and you end up with a battery that wont last as long as it should.

Nice little lane mate, lovely to see Forester's out and about 👍

You'll need this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/273869963130?_skw=subaru+camshaft+locking+tool&itmmeta=01JHABXFSFBQ6F7QMGCRK5DTB2&hash=item3fc3ebff7a:g:VFwAAOSwntRcaqiN&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8HoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKmvdFG%2BRr9Zkjdf%2BBdZtAfxyV%2BRhT84XCf1uM2M%2BHar2zldDT9KVaerR5D1EqQVNF0zp0pDRM9%2BAMsu6Qk5paRFWfliSmZmZfauFoJoM5x4cD0lgwHJm0ZwBWwq5Y%2F2BrxLt4De0eAEtzBMFbWfhqkni5BARAz2bn9UcUgzC6XPuy9rLkLNiKQ%2FsX9GySK1P6VXoZsAc5reA%2BEnAZLhlXLkqwns2c70MshjNq7CwehDZ4GxQF0BenbglS0wzmXwqedF0th1GS%2F1ZQccvf%2BNDNUTKalPql1F1TVP3kFTfV%2F1BA%3D%3D|tkp%3ABFBM9vz1y4pl Camshaft pulleys are metal and won't need changing.

Good news, I got my maps back. The Subaru Customer Support replied quickly with a detailed step by step procedure to regain the maps. It looked a bit daunting but with patience it worked. The only hitch in the process is that the USB stick has to be plugged in after opening the map update window. It didn’t register when I first put it in. I will copy the steps below for anyone else to use. This is the email reply I received: Thank You for contacting Subaru (UK) Ltd. I will try and help you with your map issue, if you have lost your UK map, it sounds like you may have started a UK Map update 'in car' via a Wi-Fi connection, and then it lost connection/lost connectivity - the first thing it does is delete the current map, then apply the update, if the update fails, you have no map... The only way to fix this now is to carry out a FULL map reload via USB stick, using the maps website. I'm going to give you all the information, so apologies if you are much further ahead. For your information, the maps installed on your car can be updated to the latest map release using website: http://subaru-maps.com When using the subaru-maps website you create a user-account, add your vehicles VIN, type in your Request Code off the Head Unit to obtain your Authentication Code, then download and install the 'Map Downloader' app, open this and log in (also using the same credentials as the website) to view and physically download any updated maps available for your car. Once the USB stick has been created, insert it in the car, then type in the Activation Code you obtained from the website when prompted to authorise the install. I know this all sounds complicated, so I have attached some visual instructions as a PDF - I hope these help explain the process a little better. Lastly, the app and the QR code - unfortunately the app is only compatible for the EV vehicles, eg the SOLTERRA currently, it will not work with your Outback. I will attach the pdf mentioned above. Hope someone finds it useful. Activation Code on HARMAN maps-Dec-02-2024-03-43-40-7464-PM.pdf

Thanks very much for the sound advice which I will follow. Also bought a jump start battery pack – belt and braces. A bit disappointing to hear it is common issue. But I have some good news about the loss of my satnav maps which you can see in my other post.

Thanks all for your input - sorry to hear about your issues @Justin Time - will keep a close eye on brake issues after this! and thanks @Hippo for the vote of confidence So I pulled the trigger on a low milage 2021 gen 5 which I picked up last week - I have to say I am absolutely loving it, and feel that I have absolutely made the right choice stepping into the Subaru club….after a week of driving even more perplexed by how much they get such middling reviews in the press….I’m not used to driving particularly fast cars, but it certainly feels more than punchy enough…it doesn’t particularly feel much slower in the real world than my wife’s xc40 which does 0-60 in sub-8.0 seconds.. aside from that great comfort, ridiculous amounts of space, and imo great sharp handling for such a big car (came with Michelin cross climates which might help) one happy buyer here!

Helensburgh Toyota no longer have the Subaru franchise and no longer does warranty work for Subaru.

Corrosion is number one thing look out for on these, surface rust is going be the norm and that can be surface treated, heavy corrosion can get quite expensive and if it not localised rust you be chasing you tail for no long term benefit . Also don't think newer means better, late 90's to 2002 era about some of best made . Do good checks using MOT history and good visual inspection and that means a real good long look and poke around underneath, rust doesn't always show itself but steel can be rotted and collapse under physical inspection . Is fairly easy find these pretty clean and not many keen on larger engines so prices can be low/easy haggle . I would be more sceptical of dealer sales than private and that comes from 30 years trade experience lol, 99% of the good stuff comes private sales, biggest ballache and pork pies always dealers .

M30 alarm document link > https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7Ub2apq5-pfcjJhSm5XUHNyUzQ/view?usp=sharing

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