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First few trips including motorway, city, minor roads, farm tracks, unmade lanes, snow and ice! Collected my 23 plate XV SE Premium a few weeks ago and immediately treated it to a new set of Continental All Season Contact 2. First impressions? Road holding is superb in a variety of conditions. Living in very rural mid Wales, have been able to test on muddy roads, very wet roads, through some floods, we even had two days of snow up to about 3 inches on the roads, then rutted farm tracks with frozen snow and broken ice. So far, all I can say is wow. My old car was a battered 2013 4wd Duster with full mud and snow off road tyres and that could cope with most conditions admirably. However, the XV was happy in all conditions so far with no complaints, plus it's a heck of a lot more comfortable than the old war horse! I had read about the CVT taking a bit of getting used to, the adaptive cruise being a pain, the safety stuff being a bit too safe, the acceleration being poor, the engine noisy, the infotainment system being glitchy, the music system being poor as well as many other complaints (mainly from motoring journalists). All I can say is that my initial experience is this:- The CVT is pretty smooth and Subaru have done a good job of making it feel like a conventional auto. Adaptive cruise is extremely controllable, all the way to standstill and pulling away again. Safety is superb, love the little lights on the mirrors letting you know something is alongside, the fast flash when someone is coming up fast or a pedestrian is walking behind you in a car park. The front view camera is superb when parking, as is the rear parking assist camera. Acceleration is smooth and steady, not the quickest, but that doesn't bother me. I'm not trying to win the RAC. The engine noise is acceptable, certainly not excessive on acceleration. No glitches with the Infotainment system so far, got a decent USB cable and the set up is easy and quick, Android Auto works well, the built in navigation is quick and easy to update to current maps, system is easily customisable, intuitive and the touch screen easy to navigate. Google Voice commands work well. DAB is decent with seamless transitions between digital and FM, essential round here as signal is sketchy. How loud do motoring journalists want their music systems? Up into the low 20's on the control and the music is loud and crisp with no distortion. Sat at around 15 is plenty loud enough for normal listening. Air con is fantastic, heated seats perfect, space great, boot is compact but sufficient, seats are comfortable, handling is out of this world for a high ground clearance car, all the toys work well, Eyesight system is superb. Fuel economy is around 40mpg so far, EV system around London was excellent this weekend and the thing I love the most is that I've only seen two other XV's so far! Cool Marque with a nice bit of exclusivity. Granted these are pretty early days, but so far very impressed and pleased with my purchase and looking forward to many happy miles in the Scooby. Off to Europe next week, so let's see how we handle autoroutes and cobbles!

She has finally arrived from Singapore now 😎 2.0 GT-S with 48,500kms on the clock

Hurrah! The PIN Code from the dealer worked and the alarm / immobiliser was disabled. The problem with the alarm going off does persist however, if I re-arm the system. I think I will just use the key for a while and get used to that.. The other good news is that with the car starting again, I was able to drive to my local garage where she passed her MOT without a single advisory this morning! Thanks to Dales Automotive in Barnoldswick for supplying the code 🙂 I might update the thread if I can get to the bottom of this alarm problem...

Thanks for the info! I've sieved the document pack to no avail, and so have approached my local Subaru garage to request a PIN, using my V5 and photo ID to verify my ownership. Of course, there is still that thorny issue of what to do with the PIN when it arrives! I had a (very expensive!) autoelectrician look at the car this afternoon - he got as far as diagnosing that the 'Integrated Unit Module showed no communication with ECU intermittently' before my time ran out - and he departed to another job. Nice work if you can get it! The car is still doing the thing, locking using the key fob (sometimes not) but not unlocking remotely. When the key goes into the ignition and is turned, the alarm kicks in and the immobiliser does it's thing, so the car won't start. Very frustrating! It feels like it must be something simple! But with my luck it is probably something terminal instead! 😞 I'm off to London tomorrow, so no more updates till Weds, but maybe, just maybe, the PIN thing will move us forward... Watch this space 🙂

Do you have a keypad inside the little flap by drivers' right knee which gives access to the interior fuse box? If so it's likely an OEM (Thatcham?) fitting. If so do you know the 4 or 5 digit PIN and if so does inputting the code make any difference?

Merry Christmas to the members of the Subaru Owners Club Enjoy the festive break and see you back here in 2025

not sure why you should have issues finding one, they are just a typical car battery? have a look on https://www.yuasa.co.uk/ should be able to search for either make/model/engine or by reg number

I've just changed from a 2020 Generation 5 Outback to a 2025 Generation 6, and I've noticed the very same thing, so it's not just your car. I'm going to have to see if I can get used to this in practice for a bit, but yes, I used to like the 'soft click', 3 or 4 indications, for lane changes which corrected itself off.

The above review gives some good advice. On my partner's new Skoda Karoq 4x4 we put these, last winter: https://www.pirelli.com/tyres/en-gb/car/catalogue/product/cinturato-all-season-sf-3 As the winter was mild, it wasn't really an opportunity to test them, but all seemed good anyway. On my Outback, I swop tyres: summer to full winter, about now, so we have one car at least at home which can get us in and out should things really get hairy and we need to venture out. We live in very rural north Pennines at just under 2000 feet altitude, up a steep narrow single track lane, so it can get interesting! Quite frankly, with milder winters and the vast improvement in all-season tyres, once my Michelin Alpin 5 SUV tyres are too worn, I'll probably buy some all seasons too.

I've been using Continental All Season Contact, and Goodyear vector all seasons on my Outback and Levorg for the last few years, also in rural Wales, and they've been faultless, especially in slimy wet conditions. Highly recommended.

Bought a Field, not brand new but no regrets. Really nice car to drive did think about the premium however being a Scotsman didn't fancy the high road tax, but there again the memory seats would have been nice. Looking forward to lots of snow ❄️

Hey folks, hope it's okay to jump on and post here. Long time Subaru owner and all round fan, but sadly it's time to let my lovely Levorg STi go to a new home. I have listed the car on Piston Heads but will include the details here. Please reach out if you have any questions or are interested. --- This Levorg STi was imported on my behalf by Torque GT around 3 years ago. I have loved every second of ownership and unfortunately personal circumstances force a reluctant sale. It has carried me through a pretty tumultuous time in my life! Having previously owned an imported Legacy GT, I knew I wanted something of similar performance with a few more comforts. The Levorg STi delivered. To me this has been a modern, fairly luxurious car, whilst still turning heads and getting a few smiles from the missus out of twisty lanes. The car has just had a service in preparation for its next owner, and some small paint smart repairs alongside a polish. MOT until October. This is a very honest car. It had Michelin Cross Climates put on it last year and they still have plenty of tread, paired with the 300hp this puts out you're guaranteed to have a little fun. Packed tonne of features (and especially the Subaru Eyesight system which is fantastic), some I may forget to list: - Full red leather interior with electric moving front seats - Heated seats - Power folding mirrors - Blindspot detection in the mirrors - Automatic headlights, with automatic high-beam/dipping - Rain sensors and automatic wipers - Adaptive cruise control - Lane assist (a personal favourite) - Lane exit detection and warning - Dual climate control - Parking sensors and reverse camera - Keyless entry Get in touch via SMS or WhatsApp please 07827019317.

Much appreciate your opinion and insights Judd.

Its a 150 and nice one too without too many bells and whistles, personally i prefer cloth to leather. A 200 would have the V8 Diesel (the petrols listed are gery imports)and would typically be priced around that figure at 12 years old with 130k on the clock, lovely motor but for goodness sake. The one you've listed it would be interesting to know why its had 2 owners, might have been a demo, sometimes even the change of personal plate can come up as an ownership change, it looks in very good condition and unless something other than 2 owners is a cause for concern it would be one i'd be looking at, seems reasonably priced but there should be some room for wriggle in a private sale, in many ways i prefer a private sale because you get to see the previous owner and judge for yourself what the car has been through. After 2020 (from memory) they did various modifications to the engine, as you can see from one of the dash pics its got a manual DPF regen button which earlier models didn't get, though it shouldn't be needed because they've pretty well sorted earlier DPF issues by then, later ones like that 2022 model they've ironed out all the quirks. Remember the first place you go when looking at any LC underneath, that one looks clean enough to eat your dinner off any surface, it might be worth asking the seller if he'll take some random pics from underneath to send to you. 3ish years old, keep it serviced at Toyota you've got another 6 or 7 years makers warranty on all the important bits. Get your overalls on and get rustproofing you could have this or similar for umpteen years with only regular servicing and friction materials/tyre replacement (tyres are big and usually last between 40 and 50k) and when you decide to sell on LC enthusiasts will be beating a path to your door if its a genuine rust free example, the very high spec models tend to come with rear air suspension, which is great while it works but with the height sensors underneath unless you keep them protected can fail expensively,also the air pump isn't cheap, many high spec vehicles are retro fitted with steel springs and appropriate shocks via a kit as they age.

Thanks for that info Judd and I will check out the forums too. I've been looking at something a bit like this one https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202505052055417?sort=price-desc&searchId=3ad54a54-2151-4185-8be2-d501efa62a98&advertising-location=at_cars&fuel-type=Diesel&make=Toyota&maximum-mileage=60000&model=Land Cruiser&page=4&postcode=DL12 0QY&year-from=2020&year-to=2024&fromsra Is that the 150 or 200 series? I'd not go for that one (too many owners for the age and it's a private sale, etc.) , just using it as an example. The invincible models seems to attract a hefty mark up - worth it? (I hope you're going to say no :) ) More choice with the Active trim too. Hardly any Icons trims. I like the utility version, but I don't think I'd convince my partner, with just 2 seats, as she's super sociable !

An update of the issue with AT Oil Temp light flashing after AT Speed Sensor being replaced. End up I found a garage who helped me clear the signal, and that's rather humiliating - it just need to lift the car up and run computer diagnosis for the car to learn the new sensor. According to the garage, all 4 wheels has to be able to run without weight for the car to reset. It means the previous mechanic who helped me replace the faulty AT Speed Sensor in fact did he work neatly, but then because he did that only on a pair of service ramp at my driveway, he's unable to lift the whole car up to run the reset. But then either he doesn't know the trick or he purposefully kept silent as he doesn't have a car lift anyway.

Well I was happily moving my 2022 eboxer into the car port from the driveway when suddenly an orange symbol appeared on the dashboard marked GPF with the information icon. I waded through the owners manual and learnt the following. The car is fitted with a GPF and just like a diesel it may require regeneration if the car is driven in urban conditions a lot in low temperatures. Personally I'd no idea that petrol cars had these or that the last generaton of the XV were fitted with these ,but subsequently learnt this is apparently a mandatory device under EU regulations since 2022. Now here's the thing. To conduct the regeneration you have to drive the car in manual gear mode without using cruise control at between 2000 and 2500 revs at a speed above 60kph for about 30 minutes and periodically take your foot off the accelerator. I live just off the M5 motorway so drove it on there . After 15 miles and about 20 minutes the warning light went out. I understand if it won't clear it then becomes a dealer job to force a regeneration. I searched Youtube and could find very little information about the GPF. I did however find a video of a guy with a 2024 Kia who had encountered the same issue. In his case he had to drive 80 kilometres to get his car to complete the regeneration so I feel very relieved mine only took 20 minutes. Would I have bought my Subaru if I had realised this was going to be an iussue. Well I bought a hybrid to avoid diesels with a DPF and it would have been nice to know I might have issues in the winter with short journeys. By the way once the regeneration had finished I noticed that the performance of the car improved dramatically. I only use 'branded' petrol and every two or three tankfuls refuel with Shell V power. Hope this information is of use.

thank you

it's the washer jet cover i think, just as an example https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/205044437045?chn=ps&_ul=GB&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1W3C0KZ6XTJe4XT-Bjxyxug0&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-173151-921626-2&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=205044437045&targetid=2407181292431&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=1006886&poi=9191192&campaignid=22444727999&mkgroupid=179474130633&rlsatarget=pla-2407181292431&abcId=10267179&merchantid=118945996&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwlMfABhCWARIsADGXdy9fleo4cK-iGrgwoaAelZPMcUhtrhTBQxpJFkf42g-5TnhGZeYCqG0aAgCEEALw_wcB

As long as you arnt ripping off members its all good 🙂

Morning, thanks for your feedback. When I get an opportunity, I'll investigate both options. The noise from the glove box occurs full or empty (mind you I do find the size of the glove box quite small compared to the previous model and other cars!) Cheers, Allan

TBH subaru has never been a big seller in the uk, they arn't exactly customer focused like most other brands, my parents just picked up their brand new crosstrek a few weeks back and the choice's they had to make to select it were very limited, limited colour availability even from the very small options lisy, only 2 trim levels (which is basicly cloth and no sunroof or leather seats and sunroof) and only cvt gearbox creates a very limited customer base. Don't get me wrong, the crosstrek is a very nice car, its just from a customer experiance its you get what you get.

Many thanks Mr B. While I have the shocks off I will do corrosion management as per your post from 2016!;

It's not on the road yet, as going for MOT tomorrow then I have to wait for the DVLA to register it. I'm coming directly from a BH5 Legacy twin turbo, but have owned a number of Subaru's over the years (see below)

It has to be 5x114.3 stud pattern or it won't fit. You'll need to check the centre bore and offset - standard levorg numbers are 56.1 centre bore and 55 offset

New rear subframe with all new arms, bolts and hubs almost ready to transplant into the car, that will hack the mot tester of as he won’t be able to rust rear subframe comments anymore!

Got it to Pass today while it was hot. Thanks

Thanks mate. It was a very nice journey home and a pleasure doing business with you. I hope the new Levorg goes well!

Sold now - hope you had a great journey home!

Aftermarket quality in suspension parts is a major concern . It also a major safety factor and impacts driving/performing quality of vehicle . ICP aftermarket part quality is a bit hit and miss as they not as fussy as use to be and the aftermarket manufacturing quality is down the toilet these days even on previous well rated major car part brands . So if buying from ICP you wise call them and ask what brand/manufacturer the part is rather than assuming it good . What I do on these if the original arm is not seriously rusted is fit new bushes and new genuine subaru ball joint too. We get the original balljoints for example for about 16 quid so it not worth buying aftermarket to save few quid on a part that serious safety component and needs be proper quality have half a chance of decent service life . For complete arm you could look at ACKOJA, they made in Korea by OEM's for car parts so quality not the worst . MOOG is another option for suspension parts that not the worst . We have to deal with this poor quality part concern every day and aftermarket part quality is the biggest problem we face today, takes lot of knowledge and time keep on top of what good/bad and price effective, you also always getting customers wondering why part bill what it is when they could of got it off eBay or Amazon for 3rd of the cost lol . Lot of the cheap parts are trash straight out the box and either don't fit, fit/function poorly or pretty much failed in 12 to 18 months ... Buy wisely and refurbish original parts when possible .

https://www.gilesgateautocare.co.uk I took my car here in for its annual service and MOT in early December. I'd been fed-up with the quality of work at 3 previous Subaru dealerships. So now we're 3 months down the road, literally, and all is well. Nice bunch of guys, and they even wiped off the water stains in the engine bay and gave the car a sprucing up. It's only a 10 min. stroll into the centre of lovely Hexham while you wait, so really convenient.

I've taken all of my cars to them for years. Chris, Paul and Scott - you couldn't wish for better people to look after your cars. My soon to arrive Levorg will be going there next month

Is a few slight variations in subframes depending on exact months built and regional market specific models but general rule of thumb if part off same region and same year it will fit, when those factors vary you may get issue or few to make it fit but most of the time biggest part of it still be same ...

Many thanks Justin Time: It's the Wifi !!! See image attachment. My tools: https://www.ctek.com/uk/battery-chargers-12v-24v/mxs-5-0-uk https://carbatterygeek.co.uk/bm6-battery-monitor-review-12v-car/ I hope you can read the annotation, but it shows the battery dropping back to around 12.2V only 30hrs after a full charge (and presumably on its way to totally discharged). As soon as the WiFi is disabled it holds steady. So, since I turned the Wifi off, it has not dropped another decimal volt for 10hrs. I'll get it back to full charge again with the CTEK and see if this continues. I know this little BM6 device is not totally scientific but it's cheap and useful and saves the hassle of constant multimeter readings. The values it presents are two decimal places the same as the value on the cigarette lighter voltage monitor. I've never had to do this sort of stuff in 40yrs of owning cars. I don't think it's just Subaru.

Afternoon all, Just joined the forum after buying a 2012 WRX STi 340r Prodrive. Absolutely lovely car and very much enjoying driving and owning it. Though got a few questions! It has a semi forged engine, done around 45k now on 86k, according to the history its always been serviced with 10/40 oil fully synthetic. Would this be the correct grade? Seems quite thick to me given my old turbo 86 was 5/30 and my 25 year old Land Rover is 5/30 as well 😅 Could anyone direct me to a service schedule for the diffs and gearbox, and what oil I should be using. Looks to be 75w/90. Will be doing the fuel filter as well, any special tools needed for this? Looking to change all the oils and fluids soon as I can, so I can start with a everything fresh! No stranger to mechanics, been working and building Land Rovers for the last 15 years! Thank you, looking forward to it!

Sometimes it the wiring broken at transition flex point to the boot lid . Can't beat the old mechanical handle, mine 25 years old and works same as when come out of factory . The sensor switch boot releases are complete garbage, nothing but hassle and expense, lot of models get water ingress into the switch board (big problems on multi function module/boards that canbus integrated). On some model cars where this incorporates into reverse camera & perhaps even rear wiper all in one the problems caused and cost to resolve gets silly. when linked into canbus networks can completely disable the vehicle and it needs flatbed recovery. Very rare I get to do a diag/repair bill under £300 for resolving this electronic garbage faults, 400 to £800 don't go far sorting this p155 poor engineering concept & low cost component choice of the vehicle manufacturers . No make regardless of prestige/price are exempt from this ... Basically the newer you go the worse it getting in terms of reliability and cost to repair faults . New cars environmental benefits would seem be none judging by the parts bins and service chemical consumption increase I getting . Since Hybrids I do battery recycling by the pallet monthly through winter, pretty much 3 times the battery waste I got pre Hybrid . Cleaner numbers out tailpipe but everywhere else it much worse !

Hello Brack, and thanks for replying 🙂 Replaced both batteries with new. No difference. Car still doesn't unlock on key fob, and alarm goes off / immobiliser kicks in when using key to unlock and enter. Sounds like something has fried itself at the receiver end. I don't know if it is a factory fitted or after market system (which apparently makes a difference) but it is dead either way. And now I can't find anyone locally to have a look at it, as all the so called autoelectricians are either booked up for weeks, or not willing to come out and want me to take the car to them (I suppose I could push it 😞 ) Blackburn really is a wasteland these days..

It looked narrow, you had a sensible speed .. nice video.

I'd try putting a new battery into one of the fobs anyway and try it - look for the sell by date on the new battery blister pack - your 4 month old battery could be a lot older than you think, it could be months and months before they are sold and you end up with a battery that wont last as long as it should.

Nice little lane mate, lovely to see Forester's out and about 👍

You'll need this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/273869963130?_skw=subaru+camshaft+locking+tool&itmmeta=01JHABXFSFBQ6F7QMGCRK5DTB2&hash=item3fc3ebff7a:g:VFwAAOSwntRcaqiN&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8HoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKmvdFG%2BRr9Zkjdf%2BBdZtAfxyV%2BRhT84XCf1uM2M%2BHar2zldDT9KVaerR5D1EqQVNF0zp0pDRM9%2BAMsu6Qk5paRFWfliSmZmZfauFoJoM5x4cD0lgwHJm0ZwBWwq5Y%2F2BrxLt4De0eAEtzBMFbWfhqkni5BARAz2bn9UcUgzC6XPuy9rLkLNiKQ%2FsX9GySK1P6VXoZsAc5reA%2BEnAZLhlXLkqwns2c70MshjNq7CwehDZ4GxQF0BenbglS0wzmXwqedF0th1GS%2F1ZQccvf%2BNDNUTKalPql1F1TVP3kFTfV%2F1BA%3D%3D|tkp%3ABFBM9vz1y4pl Camshaft pulleys are metal and won't need changing.

Thanks Linx .I seached for weeks before I got some real help from your stuning post!.

Good news, I got my maps back. The Subaru Customer Support replied quickly with a detailed step by step procedure to regain the maps. It looked a bit daunting but with patience it worked. The only hitch in the process is that the USB stick has to be plugged in after opening the map update window. It didn’t register when I first put it in. I will copy the steps below for anyone else to use. This is the email reply I received: Thank You for contacting Subaru (UK) Ltd. I will try and help you with your map issue, if you have lost your UK map, it sounds like you may have started a UK Map update 'in car' via a Wi-Fi connection, and then it lost connection/lost connectivity - the first thing it does is delete the current map, then apply the update, if the update fails, you have no map... The only way to fix this now is to carry out a FULL map reload via USB stick, using the maps website. I'm going to give you all the information, so apologies if you are much further ahead. For your information, the maps installed on your car can be updated to the latest map release using website: http://subaru-maps.com When using the subaru-maps website you create a user-account, add your vehicles VIN, type in your Request Code off the Head Unit to obtain your Authentication Code, then download and install the 'Map Downloader' app, open this and log in (also using the same credentials as the website) to view and physically download any updated maps available for your car. Once the USB stick has been created, insert it in the car, then type in the Activation Code you obtained from the website when prompted to authorise the install. I know this all sounds complicated, so I have attached some visual instructions as a PDF - I hope these help explain the process a little better. Lastly, the app and the QR code - unfortunately the app is only compatible for the EV vehicles, eg the SOLTERRA currently, it will not work with your Outback. I will attach the pdf mentioned above. Hope someone finds it useful. Activation Code on HARMAN maps-Dec-02-2024-03-43-40-7464-PM.pdf

Thanks very much for the sound advice which I will follow. Also bought a jump start battery pack – belt and braces. A bit disappointing to hear it is common issue. But I have some good news about the loss of my satnav maps which you can see in my other post.

My only experience of driving an e-boxer forester was two years ago as a courtesy car while my OB was being serviced. The Forester had less than 200 miles on the clock and it was the black 'sports' (?) version. First impressions (sitting in it) was that it seemed very comfortable and light. However, driving it was not pleasant. It was really slow, tank like, when accelerating from junctions and when pulling away at roundabouts when you wanted to join the flow of traffic. Noticeable slower than the OB. The member of staff I spoke to afterwards also agreed that they found the OB a much more pleasant drive. The stats state: Forester 0 - 62 11.8 secs Outback 0 - 62 10.8 secs. Neither are speedy cars of course, but the Forester was a sloth - that 1 sec difference was marked. Having said that, you do see them out and about so perhaps their owners are very content. Another negative, for me, is that the mpg for the OB is 32.8 while for the Forester it's still just 34.7 mpg. Hardly a great saving. Must be those heavy batteries. Plus you have a smaller fuel tank (48 litres vs 63 litres) in the Forester due to the batteries, so you get hardly much better mpg and you have a much reduced range. So if you're prepared to go slower and have to fill up more often on longer journeys...! Another big negative for me, is that you can't fit a spare wheel in the Forester (again because of the batteries). No car can pretend to offer aspirations of off-road capabilities if a spare isn't available. Overall I think the Forester looks the biz, but unless they offer a none hybrid and also either at least a 2.5 litre engine, or a turbo option, it's not for me. It'll be interesting to see how you find the Forester after the legacy for driving experience.

Thanks all for your input - sorry to hear about your issues @Justin Time - will keep a close eye on brake issues after this! and thanks @Hippo for the vote of confidence So I pulled the trigger on a low milage 2021 gen 5 which I picked up last week - I have to say I am absolutely loving it, and feel that I have absolutely made the right choice stepping into the Subaru club….after a week of driving even more perplexed by how much they get such middling reviews in the press….I’m not used to driving particularly fast cars, but it certainly feels more than punchy enough…it doesn’t particularly feel much slower in the real world than my wife’s xc40 which does 0-60 in sub-8.0 seconds.. aside from that great comfort, ridiculous amounts of space, and imo great sharp handling for such a big car (came with Michelin cross climates which might help) one happy buyer here!

Helensburgh Toyota no longer have the Subaru franchise and no longer does warranty work for Subaru.

Corrosion is number one thing look out for on these, surface rust is going be the norm and that can be surface treated, heavy corrosion can get quite expensive and if it not localised rust you be chasing you tail for no long term benefit . Also don't think newer means better, late 90's to 2002 era about some of best made . Do good checks using MOT history and good visual inspection and that means a real good long look and poke around underneath, rust doesn't always show itself but steel can be rotted and collapse under physical inspection . Is fairly easy find these pretty clean and not many keen on larger engines so prices can be low/easy haggle . I would be more sceptical of dealer sales than private and that comes from 30 years trade experience lol, 99% of the good stuff comes private sales, biggest ballache and pork pies always dealers .

M30 alarm document link > https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7Ub2apq5-pfcjJhSm5XUHNyUzQ/view?usp=sharing