Siluro

Wow the gear changes are rapid but smooth at same time. Up change is awsome.

Oh no another Wagon user. Lovely motor. Welcome

Was there not a recall on these? I had my Hawk recalled and checked by Subaru, I am sure it was for the arms rusting.

Wow that is a heavy right foot. My Hawk WRX worst is 200 miles.

I had a classic sport and it was lovely car. My dad had it from new and I bought off him (this where the Subaru bug started). Only issues after 18 years was rad got hole in it and the cat collapsed. I must admit I would never initiate a scooby wave in that, I always waited for the WRX or STI to initiate the wave. PS. Get headlights done

Your measuring the panel without a load on it. When connected to the car battery it will draw all the current the panel can provide. At this point the voltage will drop to just above the battery voltage. With a <10w panel this will be fine. Anything above this then I agree you would need to regulate for safety reasons as the current output gained now is enough to easily start a fire in an already hot car parked in the sun. I have been running a 7.5w panel for the past week (max voltage no load 21v) which is doing just enough to keep battery level at 12.40 to 12.50 volts which above 75% charged. This week there has been a decent amount of sunshine, in the winter however this may be a different story. Panel size and it effectiveness will also depend on what your car draws when parked, all will be different.

Wow it was late, I need to proof check in future. The current produced from my 7.5W panel falls of a cliff when the panel produces some where below 17 volts without a load (not connected to battery). This is a cloudy day sort of light. This would then only produce 30-40 ma (rough calculation) so the battery would still slowly drain if left for a long period of time. Normal battery drain I believe is 40-60 ma but that is car dependent. More modern cars maybe a lot more. My Hawkeye draws 50 ma when in sleep mode. It draws 0.3 amps for 20ish seconds when the battery is first connected then drops to 0.05 amps. Based on this then a better panel would really be required to keep the battery topped up in the winter months (dull days). Then you get into regulators and bigger or more expensive panels. Gets to the point where it is easier and cheaper to just pull the battery and stick it on a mains charger. My 7.5 watt panel this last week has managed to keep it topped up but it has had some good sunshine. This week the panel has kept the battery around 12.4 volts. I checked battery voltage last thing at night.. Worst day being 12.37v but that is in line with the amount of sunlight. Only tested so far for a week. I cannot see a 4.8w or lower being of much use unless you live in Australia but it will buy you some time before the battery is flat. Edit: quick calculation without panel: (60/0.05)/24 = 50 Days or around 7 weeks to a flat battery. Based on just a continuous 50ma draw on fully charged 60Ah battery. This is for an untouched car parked and does not include ECU wake up draw, or interior lights and so on...... So my 7.5w panel in mid to good light might work on my car. I will keep testing.

I agree. The current falls of a cliff below some where below 167v from the panel. This would turn out to be 30ma, maybe enough to negate normal draw barely. It dishes out 21max with no load. Yes a 15 watt panel may do the job well but still depends on British weather. This just delays the flat battery. Halford sell a fused OBD connector which I used on a cheap panel from Ebay.

My 2007 Hawkeye so far has been trouble free. As above constant maintenance with quality parts or OEM. No putting off stuff for another 1000 miles. The yearly tax does hurt I cannot dispute that. Forget intake unless your chasing serious power or just want to be heard.

Sorry Jamie I do not know. I am interested on what the experts think though. I mean if that turbo explodes while in car you will be spending a whole lot more than the extra a branded high quality turbo would cost. These things spin super fast and I would not trust a cheap chinese copy. See what others say. What i am pretty sure of is if you bolt cheap parts to your Scooby it will cost you in the long run.

I know nothing about how to extract power but is a <£200 turbo a good idea?

I live in terrace house so bought a solar panel 7.5w and plugged it via ODB port fused. Panel open circuit kicks out 21v in decent sunlight. Overcast drops to 15-18v where I doubt it is producing much output (don't have a DC current meter). When connected to battery the panel cannot supply the 21v as the battery will draw lots current so voltage drops down to the battery voltage (bit over). Seems to work but I would probably buy a 10 watt plus next time. RAC sell a 4.8w panel which I cannot see doing much unless in 24 hour sunlight. Only had it a few days so too early to tell if it does much we shall see. It will definitely slow the drain of the battery but not sure if it will keep it topped up. In the winter I doubt it from what I am seeing on this 7.5 watt panel. If I was to use a higher wattage panel I would consider a regulator (needs research) as the amount of power is starting to get towards being able to start a fire easily.

Are you talking Polish or Wax? Those brands indicate wax to me. Do you have machine polisher? If wax Bilt Hamber wax is cheap and lasts long time but is not the easiest to apply. Lasts lot longer than Poorboys Natty Paste wax and others I have used. Poorboys is super nice to apply effortless compared to Bilt Hamber.

I would not know but it seems to be a good price for that mileage+PPP. Good luck with the sale. Car looks like a keeper to me. Good luck OP with finding one.

https://www.facebook.com/MBDevelopments1/ Never dealt with them but the part a lot of Subarus.

I paid Scoobyworld in Liecester to do mine last time. I had some change out of £400 if I remember correctly but that was just the belt change. Car had only done 27K then. Next time i will do the water pump, belt and the bearings and anything else like tensioner if looks worn. Kits start at £300 for all that + £100+vat for pump so I guessing between £600-1000 next time dependant on which parts you pick, labour rates. Do it yourself and it just parts. If I had a garage I would go at it myself. One day. It looks fairly easy if you have the right tools. I do most stuff myself but cambelt so far and it is quite nice to work on.

Rough running. If it was my Hawkeye I would check MAF sensor and plugs. Not sure about forester

That's where you went wrong main dealer. They are useless in my experience. I good indie that know Scoobies would do you better.

Is the clicking not a solenoid going crazy? It cannot of welded it's switch together (due to arcing) as fan goes on and off, so must be being supplied a voltage on and off constantly. If it was a bad earth it would continue to do so when switched on no? unless a new earth gets connected when switched on or new positive supply or both? Should read the error codes first bad earth is highly probable. What was the CAT C for, could that be water damage?

I have too agree. If I was buying one now I would be more interested if the owner did most of his work and can prove it with receipts and dates. Subaru dealerships do not know anything about older Scoobies as I have found out. Then they test drive them and exceed the speed limits. I caught all their stupidity on dashcam. The could not even bleed the coolant correctly on my hawk WRX. They tried to bleed it from radiator cap lol.

Yep I have paid £100 for oil and filter change. My excuse it was in for bodywork and while they had it I may as well get them to do it. That will be the last time. Budgets always get broken.

Can you say Tranny fluid anymore?

E85 is cheating too. Can you get it easily in UK?

How many NA look like turbos with wing and scoop. Debadged for Sandals reasons.

Low fuel has a little orange dot in the fuel gauge. You have go quite low to get it to go on.