Ash007ks

3600 for quick sale.

defo think you shpuld buy it :) its for a great cause afterall

Long story short ive ended up with a VF35 as its going to suit my engine a little bit better due to the increased bore etc. so i have for sale my TD05, has not been fitted to my car and has been sat in a box since removal from its original car, was running standard boost and had only covered 50k, no smoke and no play. Top entry turbo off the early classics, can be converted to front entry by sleeving (welder will know). Due to its excellent condition im looking around £155 Inc postage.

price ? location pics

price drop 4k quick sale needed, 2 months tax and long mot 65k miles and showing as 95k on clocks but recently converted.

haha i need to as want my scooby back :) looks a nice clean car so cant see you having much trouble shifting it

you make me sad :( GLWTS

time has come as the project scoob requires some expensive parts and is basically ready to be finished. 200 BHP Toyota Starlet Glanza V 800Kg Fully Strutbraced front and back Clifford G5 Alarm with intelistart (brings insurance right down) Insures as a 1.3 non turbo, however its insured as what it is £400 with 6yrs no claims. Rota 15" split rims , slight Laquer Peel. Uprated drilled and groved Discs with EBC green stuff Pads. Every receipt for any work carried out by myself and the previous owners, extensive history all the way up to its import. Subaru Seats. Stripped out rear but will come with the interior in place if required. 40MPG. Coilover suspension. Fully Forged. Alloy Radiator Gulpher. Uprated Blitz Intercooler. Fuel Pressure Regulator. HKS fuel Defender. 15 PSI of boost from hybrid CT09 ( comes on boost around 2.5k) dump valve blanked off. new coil pack. fresh oil change with Shell fully synthetic. Walbro uprated fuel pump. Full Blitz Nur spec R exhaust Tubular Stainless manifold Momo steering wheel plasma dials boost and volt gauge no rust and loads of other parts. I used to hate these cars due to the stigmata that surround them for been young boy racers cars, after swapping my old skyline for it, i have to say what a laugh it is, handles like a !Removed! go kart and acceleration is unbelievable, yet still gets excellent mileage. i went to peterbrough on £35 with spirited driving there and back and still had just under half a tank :). Due to its Spec im looking around the £4.2k mark however im open to offers, but do not insult me please. Only bad bits are chip in the windscreen and stone chips on the front bumper however im getting it resprayed shortly. more pics to follow once its stopped raining. :)

my old bug with fly eye

swap for a high spec Glanza ??

Introduction If you find that one or more of your Sigma M30 alarm remote controls that came with your car are not working then you might need to reset or reprogram them. This article assume that the alarm remotes are working and they are the ones that came with the car/system. If this is the case then you will need to follow the procedure below with both remotes: Reprogramming Procedure Arm and then Disarm the system using the working Radio Key. Within 30 seconds of disarming, type into the keypad- *17856*91*2# where 2 is total number of radio keys to work the system Briefly press both radio keys in turn (the dash board LED will flash each time and the siren will bleep) Any radio keys not programmed here will no-longer operate the system. You should now be able to arm and disarm the system using all the radio keys programmed. When using the keypad always observe the following points: The PIN number should not be enteredtoo quickly or too slowly - when a digit has been pressed the small LED built into the keypad will illuminate briefly as confirmation and only then should the next digit be entered. If an incorrect digit is pressed or the delay between enteringdigits exceeds 10 seconds, then the LED above the keypad will flash rapidly and the PIN attempt should be abborted and started again after 30 seconds. Due to the small size of the keypad some users may find arubber tipped pencil easier to use. DO NOT use the sharp tip of a ball point pen etc, or press excessively hard on the keypad as this will only damage the membrane and cause a digit to remain pressed, causing a continual incorrect PIN. The keypad allows only THREE PIN attempts and then will “LockUp” if an incorrect number is entered a third time. This is a security feature to prevent random PIN attempts disarming the system. If the remote(s) still don’t work then there are 3 possible reasons: The remote battery is flat (the built in LED takes very little current to illuminate it and is not an indication that the battery voltage is healthy). The remote is damaged or faulty. It’s the wrong type of remote for the M30. There have been a number of Sigma remotes over the years that operate on different radio frequencies and use different encryption methods. The correct remote for the M30 is the AC38. This remote is easy to identify as it has a round battery “pod” on the rear of the remote with a screw-off cover. hope this helps.

depends which alarm it is, most likely be sigma, in which case they are still going, ill try searching for the thread that i posted, as mine was caused by the radio antennae at a race track.

you will need vin numbers etc, otherwise they wont give you time of day :) if its your alarm that wont deactivate, its in immobilisor phase, that means the fob is probably knackered, the exact same thing happened to me last year, and i didnt have the code either, a quick battery swap and i was away, i have put a thread up in the help me section regarding changing the codes on the standard alarm.

makes sense given that black keeps the heat in really, watched this on fb, some of there stuff is quality.

ended up importing them mate, as the package was just shy of a grand with the ARP bolts, i paid £610 including Vat and import tax for the full lot :) ive given martin the go ahead to replace everything in the engine as its pointless coming the far for something silly to go :) just want her back on the road now :)

Forged Pistons and Rods freshly imported :0 Engine is getting grinded and honed tomorrow and the build process has been brought forward

:)

again ive heard mixed results and so im very much on the fence with this idea, suppose it depends on the air cooling techniques your car is running as well

fancy selling Apexi seperate ?

http://uk.subaruownersclub.com/forums/topic/7257-june-9th-sheffield-subaru-services-monthly-meet/page-2#entry43989 Needs a new door handle but have one coming :)

if you have a look on my thread in the region section, its a 1996 Glanza V very highly modified and looking 3.5k

3-4k , mine has a few chips on the bumper and a broken door handle, uprated Varis interior but has a slight rip other than that shes fine, had a full rebuild last month as well so thats always a winner :)

how about you buy my glanza and px me this ;)

a reducer would have to be made or a sleeve.why are you running 3" if you dont mind me asking ?

it wouldnt be a massive offer mate as bottom end rebuilds are atleast 2.5k