savage bulldogs

Doh yeah thermostat , that's day drinking for ya . Here's a pic of the front of the engine for reference And with the cover on , thermostat is accessible Waterpump is driven by the timing belt unfortunately

Tbh your better off contacting someone like opie oils or A.S performance to get the right grade and quality oil for your rear diff and usage . I'd recommend to undo the filler bung at the top of the diff before undoing the drain plug at the bottom. As they can sometimes corrode and seize, so you want to make sure you can refill before emptying it 😉

Hi n welcome. Yep ,waterpump is accessible from underneath 2x 10mm bolts on the housing and no need to undo the timing belt covers 😉

Its difficult for me to say what hp the engine is capable of without knowing the full spec . As there's no mention of a upgraded oil pump , what type of wossner pistons (normally 2 different hp spec ) and I've never personally heard of zrp rods ect . But by the looks of the rest of the build spec ,its looking like a 500hp (maybe more) build 😎 Will admit I've never built or owned a 2.5 ,so don't take my word for it though , bud . I'd suggest to contact the company that built it and ask what hp spec they built it for . Maybe see If they have anymore info... like engine number ,just to make sure it's got that block in it and mileage when it was fitted ect

Hi n welcome, lovely looking hawk with some tasty upgrades . I have no idea what the civic was worth but it looks like you've got a £12k+ car in exchange 😎

Probably eaiser to fit the original cars speed sensor into the box ,so it matches up with your cars loom . Just be careful when removing them , as they're plastic and get brittle with age and heat cycles. Clean the area around the sensor (so no crap falls into the box) and let a little bit of wd40 soak in before trying to remove it 👍

Are the current injectors grey or yellow ? Subaru stock yellow 440cc injectors will be ample for your engine and drivetrain limits (330hp ish) .As the yellow 565cc nismo injectors will be a bit overkill and max at 380hp ish . Saying that there's no harm in fitting bigger injectors, it will just probably cost a bit more to map (no stock subaru map for them) and purchase them (440'cc £60/565'cc £200). I think the car is a a 97 uk turbo by the way , so it will probably have grey 380'cc injectors and a tdo4 as standard .That both max at 290hp 😉

No probs fella , only reason I asked about the max boost it was running was because if it's over 1 bar .. its probably already been mapped . Tbh I wouldn't drive it too hard until it's been mapped , as the modifications might make it run too far outside the oe maps parameters. These engines don't like to run lean , so I'd get it on a dyno for a health check before doing too many miles . Also if it's been sat a while might be worth doing at least a minor service or oil and filter change too

Turned the key to first stage a few times to prime the fuel system and check for fuel leaks . Cranked it over and ...... 😊😊🥳 Keeping a eye on coolant levels and checking for any fluid leaks for the first 5 mins , oil pressure and temps look good . I heat cycle my engines stationary for a few days and then drop the oil and refresh before driving anywhere. So seeing as it's only got 10 w 40 mineral oil in atm , it sounds quite quiet for a 2.1 forged bottom end on cold start 😎 Once up to temp on the first heat cycle , I noticed a slight coolant weap from near the thermostat. Tbh I forgot to buy a new thermostat 🙄 so due to lockdown postage being slower than usual I cleaned and refitted the thermostat and seal (or lack of seal lol) So as a whole I'm very happy with the build so far and have a new hi flow stat and seal on it's way 😊

So old inlet removed and head intake ports taped up , to make it eaiser to fit downpipe, starter ect at the back of the bay I had kept the turbo intake covered but removed it for the pics , as I've kept everything spotless during the build and don't want anything getting into the intake tract 😉 Rinsed the inlet , intake pipework, fmic pipework and core through with petrol .Then fitted complete inlet manifold with fuel rails ect still attached ,along with alternator and started to re run fmic pipework. P.s pump ,coolant pipework, vacuum lines, fmic and intake pipework ect fitted. Filled up the coolant and primed the oil system by turning the engine over with the starter motor and spark plugs out . Plugs and coilpacks in coolant topped up and ready for first start up 🤔🤞

Hi n welcome ,If the original engine is in it I'm fairly sure it will be open deck but most standard classic engines will be on their limits at 350hp (regardless of deck type). I managed to turn a couple of early ty52 5 speed boxes into 4 speed boxes at 330hp 🙄 so as Jay said they'd be your limiting factor . I'm unsure what turbo the 97 wrx has as standard ,a google would tell you but the car has already been modified , so you'd probably be better off looking for identification Mark's on the compressor housing (silver bit of the turbo) . The smallest turbo fitted to imprezas is the tdo4 which will make 265 to 290hp . If it has grey injectors they'll be 380cc ,which max at 290 hp ish . If it has yellow injectors they'll be 440cc and they max at 350hp ish . Having a front mount intercooler, the car should already be mapped (ideally) due to the changes in airflow and fuelling. Do you know if it's been mapped already and if so how ? Does it have a boost gauge and if so what does it read ?

I wouldn't want the extra weight of a newage lol , the v1sti only weighs 1230kg and is a much raw'er car to drive (no abs, airbags ect) Plus it already has a 6 speed , coilovers and brembos ect . ., believe me a responsive 450hp will be more than enough in the old girl 😉

No I didn't buy a kit , bud . Bought some mahle stroker pistons, a 2.5 sti crank , re used my 2ltr b.c rods and used a local engineer to do a thrust conversion on my cdb (so the later crank fits ) Had a busy day today and I'm about a hr away from first start up , hopefully get it taxed in may , for her 26th birthday

My brother ran 347 hp at standard pressure on stock 440cc yellows at 95% duty for 3 years without any issues. I'm not one for pushing components anyways, hence why I spec'd the bottom end for 750hp and the top for 520hp 😉

On the 2ltr ot was running 359.9 hp @ 80% duty, standard pressure, parallel fuel rails on nismo 565cc side feed injectors. I don't mind turning the rail pressure up a bit but I wont push them , hopefully I'll get some bigger ones and maybe a link g4+ ecu from santa 😉 Whys that ,anyways @Newman2213 ?

Nowhere near what the bottom end is good for , as it's only a road car and I want to retain some drivabilty. Think my current injectors will max at 380hp and turbo would probably max at 410hp . I don't want a track weapon with high pub numbers but I think eventually I'd like responsive mid 400's . As I don't want a harsh clutch and can't afford big expensive turbos , it's more about me doing something constructive rather than me competing with anyone 😉

I'm "lucky " enough to be back at work because I'm currently converting a ww2 bombing planning office into private dwellings, which means I'm on my own and in the middle of a airfield (miles from anything or any one ) . Unfortunately that's slowed progress on the scooby atm though 🙄 . I got the pump back from pat Seager and the full set of hi temp exhaust headstuds turned up too , so here's a pic showing why I didn't use the "kit bolt" unfortunately first time around. The bolt on the toothed idler has no makers /identification marks, no shoulders (like the oe one above) and just didn't look good quality but I trust the suppliers choice and looks ain't everything lol . So water pump ,idler pulleys, hydraulic tensioner fitted (again 🤐 ) cams dialed in and kevlar belt fitted . Kept the tape over the inlet ports and fitted the thermal spacers (bolts would be to long otherwise) and old inlet so it was ready to lift . Timing belt covers and crank pulley torqued down, too . I struggled to get the engine through the shed door on my own "built up" ,so fitted the headers, up pipe ,turbo, clutch and flywheel (with new spigot bearing) outside. Engines currently just sat in the bay 😊but hey at least it's finally in it's proppa place 😉 When it comes to running in , I guess I'll have to use it to get to work 😇 and yes I've already asked the owner If i can "use" his disused runway 😊

Tbh you're better off not using it and getting a full custom remap and solenoid port function location is specific to brand but .... If it's a 2 port solenoid one goes to turbo outlet and the other goes to actuator. If it's a 3 port same as above and 3rd port either goes to the intake pipe (between maf and turbo inlet) or vents to atmosphere (not connected to anything) I wouldn't just fit one and start changing boost settings though , or your next post will be "what's this knocking noise coming from my bay " . You need to monitor afr ,knock and listen for detonation when changing any air flow or fuelling things. So if you intend on using it ,get it set up on a dyno while a operator can monitor parameters and gently increase the boost. So the ECU can cope with the minor staged adjustments and you know its running safely. If the ECU gets reset or the battery goes flat /gets disconnected , it will go back to stock map and need to be checked again.

Plonked this in the bay this afternoon , still gotta plumb everything but its sat it its rightful place at last 😎

Don't worry jay I have lube for every occasion 🤔😂😂 Copper slip for exhaust and general bolts . Red grease for brakes (doesn't harm rubber seals ). White grease (anti fling) . And some strawberry flavoured stuff for my nuts 😉😂

What county are you in , there's a few that can come to you but you might have a tried n tested mapper locally.

There's a few differences between jdm and uk spec and most parts are interchangeable between UK and jdm of the same "version " or manufacture year. There's not much you can just bolt on mechanically and increase performance, other than suspension and strutt braces . Most engine mods will need to be mapped in , what are you after improving (cosmetics or mechanical) ? Think the wr sport was a uk turbo spec car with a few prodrive goodies fitted at the factory in limited numbers. Think good clean wr's are getting thin on the ground, tbh I have no idea what its worth though .

No mate , mines a 94 sti odb1 running apexi f.c ECU. I don't think the app shows all codes but most of them . Afaik it's just the cheapest option to check a odb2 systems codes but think there is a "evo scan" program or called something like it , for laptops and a few cheaper code readers that work . Hopefully someone with a newage will spot this and can chip in

Do you know anyone local with a ECU code reader or buy a odb2 bluetooth adapter and use the torque app, to read codes and reset the ECU. . You could try checking the vacuum lines and intake pipework for cracks and splits . If not ,Get some brake cleaner and clean the maf ,idle control valve and throttle body , then re grease the throttle body linkage . As these would be where I'd start looking for those symptoms and its cheaper to clean those things and see if the symptoms get better (or go completely) before buying stuff

@Newman2213 no problem, my ej207 refresh thread might help , as it has a few pics and tips in it 😉 If you haven't already, put some tape over those inlet ports , last thing you want is debris in the cylinders ,bud . Best of luck with it fella