savage bulldogs

Cheers @David Wilkinson it's fairly clean underneath and I like to try and keep it that way but she's no trailer queen and it does get used n abused 😊 Ive had those suspension bits for a few years , as I tend to buy things if they come up cheap and hoard them in boxes in the scooby scraps shed 😊 It's just as well that I tend to keep a few spares "kicking about" as whilst under the car I noticed my grouppe headers have a crack near the collector flange 😥 They were 2nd hand when my brother fitted them to the v1sti before I owned it. So,They've done well but after a decade ... they were well done and beyond repair 😏 Now a new set of rcm/gt headers are around £800 which would mean that a new linkg4 ECU would be put on hold for quite a while 😥 but I remembered that I still have my old oe ported headers 🤔 I hadn't gone crazy with the porting and had only "gasket matched " the flanges but the stock headers don't really restrict till 450hp and the porting should help flow a bit 😉 they've been in the shed since I put the v1sti on the road, so they will need a clean and half the stock heat shields are missing. A quick call to Alyn at Asperformance with the sizes of the ports ,turbo hotside info and target hp ..... Early next day there was a parcel delivered with some dei heat wrap (for the headers) and a new matched sized "Harvey trick up pipe " (rip buddy) , to suit my set up 😎 Although I'll probably (eventually) go for a set of aftermarket 3 bolt headers with a twisted up /downpipe, to open up turbo options and fit a 3" front entry turbo . The self ported headers and trick up pipe, shouldn't restrict the arashi tdo5 20g billet from breaking the 400hp Barrier and keep the link ECU dream alive 🤞😊

Check behind the boot liners inside the boot and under the rear arch where the rear bumper fixings are . They're normally the first places you see rust but if caught early , you can hold it back 😉

Asperformance or import car parts (both in the uk) should be able to source one for you but give them a call ,as not all stock is listed on either of their websites 😉

Good news is the brakes ain't squealing anymore 😎 But having to used heat ,anti seize and wire brushing ment I'd lost the locknut position mark on the drivers side 😏 Seeing as I'm gonna have to get it re aligned I dug out a few bits that I've been waiting to fit for about 2yrs.... Whiteline anti lift kit, super pro front wishbone bushes and a cusco H brace 😊 As most things on the car were removed and greased when I first got the 94 sti , it came apart fairly quickly, with only one balljoint being a bit stubborn. I'd bought some billet hamber detox c rust remover to clean up the nuts and bolts I removed You mix it with water and leave the parts to soak , occasionally agitating it with a brush . Seems to do what it says on the tin , and I'm pleased with the results 😎 I also found some spare rear trailing arms and lateral links and have dropped those and the ally wishbones off at a mates garage to get the old bushes pressed out . I'll get the links and arms powdercoated and fit new bushes at some point but for now I'm going to clean and polish the wishbones once they're back 😉 The front arches are still in good order and only have surface rust on the brake pipe bracket, so I'll nip that in the bud and de rust and treat those while I'm there ,too .

98 is a change over year but if it's a early v4 ? (Coilpack central on the inlet )Then any v1 to v4 long engine (block and heads) will fit . Although if it's a v1/V2 engine , you'll have to swap over the watercrossover pipe ,inlet , engine loom and auxiliaries to make it fit in a 98 v4.

You shouldn't be able to push the buckets down very far by hand , so it sounds like they need replacing.However , It could be something stuck in the valve seat , causing the valve not to return/seal properly. I'd do a compression test to rule that out first and if alls ok ,then measure the clearance ,remove buckets/shims ,measure their thickness and buy new buckets shims to match the clearance needed . There's two types of buckets on scoobies , single piece or separate removable shims . The single piece ones can still be bought in different thicknesses from subaru . Unfortunately, subaru have discontinued the type with the removable shims but they can be sourced from the likes of Asperformance in the thickness required

Price sound about right , even with the cambelt due soon (£400 ish bill) . There's one that looks very similar near me (south Suffolk coast) and I think yours is the only other one I've seen in that colour . Glwts , bud 👍

As above or possibly clutch judder

Very tidy looking installation 😎 I've got a mixture of Grahame Goode and racingline fittings on my rails and the racingline fittings seem the better quality of the two imo

Looks like one of the last of the uk turbos , I'm not after another scooby atm but any idea on price ?

Hi n welcome, bet you can't wait till its home . Usual front bumper ,don't think I've seen one before but I quite like it 👍

some classic v3 onwards sti / ra and v5/v6 uk came with 16s and 4 pots . So 16's will clear 4 pots pending on et and spoke design. Use a definite year/model impreza with 16's and 4 pots as standard ,then check a rim website that sells the speedlines to see if they definitely fit 😉

I usually don't like recommending things I haven't personally used but glad to hear you're happy with tim 👍

It's a unusual conversion to take on but I'm surprised there's not much info in the states about swapping a complete foz turbo engine and drivetrain . As they tend to do a a lot of bug /blob ej207 engine and drivetrain swaps into their 2.5 n/a rs (classics). My foz and hatch spec isn't too good ,so unsure if there's any specific in compatibility issues but here's a few problems that might arise, so you can research the compatibility between both cars . Outter Driveshaft ,hub and strutt fitment ,probably eaiser to use the hatch ones if the brakes are good enough. Clutch type ,some hatches have push clutches (I think) Rear diff ratios . if the rear diff on the hatch ratio is the same as the foz box ,there's a chance you can leave the rear end alone and use the foz box hatch prop backwards. Rear arb/diff mounts ? . Unless you're lucky ,the turbo foz ECU won't just plug in . So unless you're confident enough to swap ECU pins and splice the engine loom ? Fitting the foz engine complete with engine loom and car ecu harness would probably be eaiser but the hatch dash compatabilty might need looking into . Although the engine and box from the foz should just bolt onto the mounts , things like intake pipework, tmic depth /height ,rad and power steering system (pump ,pipework, rack feed ect) . Personally I'd mod the foz or do what everyone else does and wait until you can afford a turbo impreza. But I like making stuff work /fit and taking a different approach to building a car , so best of luck with it 👍

I've just been enjoying it still ,so decided to actually do some boring stuff and bit of "simple maintenance" . While fitting the engine I'd noticed the steering rack gators were looking worse for wear and front brakes needed a clean (squealing at low speed) . Well it should've been a 2hr job but that soon escalated into 4 hrs ,once I realized both tie rod to track rod lock nuts were well and truly seized 🙄😡 Little bit of heat . some tool improvisation for leverage and they finally came off . New gators fitted ,Threads cleaned and regreased. .Brakes were proppa filthy, no wonder the pads weren't returning properly and starting to squeal a bit 🤐 Cleaned and regreased. guessing I'd better make the most of the day off and give em a testing now then 😊

Looking good, fella . Can't wait to see the oily bits coming together too , she's gonna be a beasti 😊

Standard centre thrust crank is good for 500hp + afaik but the pistons/rods are on their limit at 350hp and its probably a open deck block , which is probably limited to 400hp . The early 5 speeds are the weakest of the bunch too , so it depends on how deep your pockets are and how far you want to go . Generally the sweet spot for a classic is 330hp at the fly and weighing less than 1300kg , its probably enough . It also means that expensive engine, drivetrain ,turbo and injector upgrades are not needed at that level too 😉 Keep us posted on which direction you want to go and we'll help if we can , bud 👍

Nice work stu 👍 Another early scoob saved and back to its former glory 😎

Generally we try to be helpful on here but you're really not helping yourself with that add , chap . No pics or model info and the fact it's a "decent car " but potential buyers can't even get in it let alone test drive it .... Would scare most people (with any sense) off phoning that number , for fear of a scam .

Yeah clean classics will fetch better money than wrx bugs and blobs , as the classics have already deprecated and started to rise in price . Only things that keep prices of newage sti's high is the standard equipment....strong factory forged ej207 ,6 speed boxes ect ... Tbh anything in the second hand car market is a gamble but I'd imagine you'd be looking at £4k+to buy a decent clean classic nowadays

Yeah I know a few that use him on the Suffolk coast , so he does travel a fair way 👍

I know a couple of people that have used zen performance, they always seem happy with the service .Another option in your area would be tim farmer , think his company is called "subarus". Hes a cambridge based subaru mobile mechanic, that can come to you . Thought I'd add I've never personally used either , as I do my own mechanical work but most seem happy with both of above 😉

Did they just check the tracking or do a full 4 wheel alignment? As camber and caister can affect wear just as much as toe 😉 If the cars geo is fine maybe go for a harder compound tyre to lessen "round about scrub"

It could well just be the changes in air flow ,that haven't been mapped in . Ie ...all the extra fmic pipework and bigger core having more volume ,the intake pipe ,maf tube and air filter changing flow too . I dare say a smoke test and code read might flag up any issues , tgv ,coilpack misfire ect Then get it mapped asap , just don't wind that 20g up too much when mapping.... Your pistons and 5 speed will thank me later lol

Generally jdm turbo stuff is used to a higher grade fuel over there but if you always use 99 ron over here , you should be fine (as long as it doesn't have any modifications) . Any modifications to breathing (air in /gasses out) ,injectors, turbo ect ... will affect fuelling , so they could cause the car to run rich or lean and damage the engine . So if a car has been run with unmapped modifications there's a chance ,you'd be buying some issues , unless it has had a dyno health check or remap to check the fuelling /add the mods to the map 😉