Gambit

It's the Logitech g27 you want fantastic wheel on the PC

I agree with the races this is what I was meaning with it being hard to not go off the track sometimes when pushing. And makes it easy for me to just look at times to update :D Right I will revert it back. And as Pete said 22b only for the Top Gear test track But that has to be a clean lap to get on :)

Often sit watching you through the window. So next time you get up for a pee in the night you know this is going to pop straight in your head now. As you walk past the window with the curtains slightly open :D

Haha I'm confused now So for main race event's it's fastest lap even if it's been flagged is that what we are going for now then ? I don't mind either way. Top Gear test track has to be clean with it being done on free run wont show to be checked

Thats it royal mail it is then ;)

You'd love it Adam don't lie. I can help you look for a house ;)

Stanton know's we send each other pictures.... Well I keep sending him mine but not had any back ;)

It is mate no other word for it :(

Phew alzheimer's not creeping in yet then :D And good luck with the change, I've never done anything to any car that has made me say " F$% it. Thats it! I'm going to pay some "£^&* to change F%£!ing things next time" But still end up doing it the next time

Yep you're right I was looking at the part ;)

86636AG300 ​Oh I got a different code :) But it does look like it can only come as a whole unit :( and the Legacy one appears to fit. Be tomorrow by the time I speak with the Scrappies now didn't know that was the time :D Time flies when your having fun ;)

K cheers. They break Subarus and jap cars so fingers crossed might be able to help. I'm going to see if I can talk them into coming on here :D

Found this picture with a metal clip on it will keep looking

No problem what year is it if they have any in and can help me :)

Ok I will do some looking around too, I'm going to be ringing a couple of scrappies up or email them tonight I will ask at the same time :D Just incase what year is it 04 ?

Thats what I'm thinking to lock it in place. I wonder if another Subaru model might fit, say from a fozzie

He's in the UK that I can see.

So does it spray like it should when you push it tight in ? so is it something more to lock it in place or does it not reach the jet to spray it without it going everywhere ? Sorry about the questions just so I know what I'm looking for ;)

Yeah 1st thing I noticed, I had a quick look and it does seem they are making a wheel for it with clutch and pedals that rumble and manual gearstick. If the rumors are true. Think it will be a must have new toy :D

You would have thought looking at it, it would push on and twist to lock it in place. Might end up having to get a bit of pipe and play about with it until it work :(

Oh sorry welcome to S.O.C ;) for some reason I thought you was a member for awhile I recognised the name, guess not :D

Good result and great they gave the time to help out :) I like that. "It ain't right" And equally great job with getting the parts if he has them, hope it sorts the problem out. Have to let us know when they turn up mate.

:D it drives differently too but I like it feels better to me, but maybe it's just because of the pads

Yes mate there a real pain in the !Removed!. I'd say the worst thing about Subarus. Some lift the engine a bit to make it easy for themselves. Another post was HERE if it helps :)

Tools you will need: 10mm socket or ratchet - to remove intake and battery. 12mm socket to remove coil pack bolts. 1/4 drive socket wrench with 12mm socket for the two rear coil packs (It's tight). 5/8" spark plug socket 2", 3" and 12" extension for 3/8 drive wrench - For removing the spark plugs and coil pack bolts. A knuckle extension. Anti seize - I use this on the spark plug threads Dielectric grease - I put a dab on the top of the spark plug where the coil packs wire touches the plug Do the spark plug change when the motor is cold so you don't risk striping something or burn the living daylights out of yourself. First start by removing the airbox and all of it's plumbing up to the inlet hose. First start by undoing the hose clamp that connects the airbox rubber hose to the inlet with a screw driver. The unsnap the air box clamshell clips and pull the back half of the airbox out of the engine bay. Now with a long extension remove the two 10mm bolts that hold the airbox to the fender. Don't forget the 1 10mm bolt inside the airbox as well. Once the airbox is out go ahead and remove the battery tie down with the 10mm socket. Once that is out of the way remove the batt cables. Remember to undo the negative first and then the positive battery cable so you don't risk getting a zap. (Installing will be positive and then negative). Getting the airbox and battery out will make for a lot more room as things are tight as is. Doing the WRX/STI some will take out the window washer bottle, but that is not needed for the LGT. Getting the coil pack off of the spark plug isn't all that hard for the two on each side in the front of the motor. The gold bolts you see are the only things that hold the coil pack onto the motor. Using a 12mm socket and knuckle along with a 3 inch extension remove the bolts. The fronts are simple and you have plenty of room. The back coil packs it's tight. This is where the 1/4 drive comes into play. The engine bay tapers to the rear so it will take some patience for the rears. I found that if I got the bolt loose enough I could take the ratchet off and keep the 12mm socket on the bolt and loosen it by hand. Don't worry about the bolts coming out of the packs, they don't. The rear passenger side coil pack has a bracket attached to it for the EGT wires that run to the Up pipe Once the bolt on that pack is loose the bracket will fall to the side. It's ok and is easily put back when the coil pack goes back on. To distinguish the front pack from the rear pack the wire harness that runs to each has a white and black adapter . The pack with the white adapters are the front and the rear is the black. The front coil is a piece of cake and is just as easy as the passenger side front. However, the driver side rear is a headache. The space is tight and the problem is not getting the 12mm bolts off, which is the same as the passenger side. The rear coil pack does not have a lot of slack to it in terms of the wires running to it. On top of that, it is extremely close to the fender wall and takes some work to get out . The previous three coil packs you are able to take out and draw them up. However, the drivers side rear you have to place below the cylinder because it is too tight to pull it up. Once you have the coil packs out of the way you are ready to remove the spark plugs. What I found to be the easiest for all four cylinders is to slide the 5/8 inch spark plug socket onto the spark plug first, and then the knuckle extention, the 12in extension and then the 3/8 ratchet. The spark plugs are deep so your gonna be thinking these things are never gonna get out. Be patient with the rears because you are at a very odd angle. The closer you can get to perpendicular with the cylinder the better you will be. Here is a side by side of the old and the new. Before you start to install the new plugs when all the old ones are out, check the gaps between the two. I know the spark plugs come pregapped, but you don't wanna find out after you have them in that the gap is too large and your misfiring. Be careful when you check the gap to not damage the electrode (it is very delicate). Before you install the new plugs, go ahead and put some anti-seize on the threads (you'll appreciate it if you ever need to pull them out again). You can use dielectric grease on the top of the plug that connects to the coil pack if you choose. Once the plug is prepared place it in the 5/8 spark plug socket. I have read that some take the cushion out of the socket, I don't find this to be a great idea because for the rears you are working with weird angles and risk cracking the plug should the socket slip off the plug. Connect the socket to a 2" extension as the cylinder is deep. Your going to wanna install the plugs by hand first as to not cross-thread the plug into the head. Again, doing this by hand for the rears takes patience. Once you plug threads into the head attach the knuckle extension and then the 3" extension followed by the 3/8 ratchet. Go ahead and tighten the plugs in. Once all the plugs are in you can put the coil packs back on. Remember, the coil pack with the white harness is the front and the black the rear. Another thing to keep in mind when you install the packs back onto the plugs; you are not going to get the distinct snap that you would with a set of wires. With each pack you put on go ahead and slide the 12mm socket onto the gold bolt and hand tighten them first and then pop on the knuckle extension and 12in extension with 3/8 ratchet to tighten them down fully. Remember that the passenger side rear pack holds the EGT bracket, so before you tighten it down too far slide the bracket back onto the bolt and then tighten it down. Once all the packs are on reinstall the air box and your battery. Go ahead and start her up! Don't forget to reset the clock, radio stations.