dogma1

went to start doing car today and what happens is rain's. and not any old rain but the stuff you need a snorkel for. we have had weeks of sunshine and then the day I start my holiday it decides to put down the rain it has stored up for the weeks it's not rained, I bet when I finally get sorted they will put a hose pipe ban on and I won't be able to wash the car.

nope never hear of one mate sorry.

there is always a debate about this on every Subaru forum. most use 10/60 miller full but in cold this has been said to be to thick. Silkolene Pro R 15w50(now called Fuchs Titan) is red and sound interesting but a bit thin good for summer they say. I hav always put 10/40 myself and changed regular. but don't hav massive power output. so all said do what ever you thick and don't blame us if you don't like it. ;) :D

well was getting ready for the work need to do on car tomoz and thought I will hav a look round at what I was about to undertake. just found a big problem when buying diff off ebay took the guys word that it is for mine. thinking all diff ratio would be the same for engine and gear box code. also thought that the codes on rear diff would identify what I had...... NOPE. I found there is no identification marks on diff the only way of telling is to open box. there is a quick way of finding ratio out but not precise you turn drive shaft full rotation and count the rotation of prop shaft but this is a bit unsafe. I found the only way Subaru knew ratio was on a paper sticker which falls off. WTF.... so lets hope and pray it work or new car for me. as won't be buying a new gear box after this. if anyone else knows anything different please let me know ;). info I can find now is I think my diff is a 4.1.1 ratio as a uk forester 99. I turned the drive shaft and got 4 and a bit rotation on the prop. so think its the same.

yes just posted on other thread.

well colour code is right. 1996 - GLACIER WHITE 230 SOLID gear box is right for car UK/Europe Impreza Turbo 2000 / GT MY98 TY752VN6AA has diff rear spoiler so check paint work as that's a sti. should tell how well its been look after. vin look sound to me rust round rivets look like car is as it came out of the box. just check normal check on body work millage is nothing if car has been looked after.

i hav heard that a metal gasket is better if you are undertaking this job. i would get job priced as could buy a new car for this job.

change the spark plugs and ht leads and poly bush as much as you can afford. As said turbo is the way forward for power but when racing a turbo have the upper hand. Talk about limitations. Race until the tank is empty I bet you win every time :D ;). I had 8mm ht leads and spitfire 4 plugs and did feel a bit of a gain but I also had a filter and exhaust. I poly the back bars. Just remember what you drive and allow the turbo's to go and say you won't do that when I get my turbo.

I know I went to get the certificate and they were charging £80 just to look at the car and they said if it was not working right they would charge for repair as they would not just give the paper bit.

may have air in system and that water has taken it's place just remember to also check it when it's warmed and ran for a bit as the hotter it gets the more chance you will get to find leak if you have one just remember to carry water to top up so you can get it home. I usually check car at work so I know it will cool down so I can refill, this way you don't hav to wait round.

I can't really help as I am crap at this sort of stuff. but I know that the early impreza had a recall for the alarm as it was a fault with freq if you parked near a POLICE STATION or RADIO MAST the alarm would not turn off and you had to push the car away from it to get in and on AWD that's a job in it's self. On insurance I always state that it's factory fit as the messing about has never saved me that much as once I stated I had a cobra on my uk turbo and they wanted the certificate and I could not find it so I had to restart insurance and they charge me £40 for the problem. I later worked out the saving and it was £20 so I now just say factory fit.

http://www.cotcomp.com/cotton_competition_004.htm hav a look here. may need to phone them as they only sell on behalf of customers

I always had it to the top ;)

just keep your eye on leakage that's all you can do. ;)

love the bluebird one's great pics

yep I saw that but didn't want to say anything now was letting him work through the could be to the OMG nooooooo's.... :( I also think their talking about high end tracked cars which have a newer 2.5 engine. I put it up just for pointers. so start at the pipes and rad then work to the more expensive things.

not put them on yet was just looking in box the part come with and found two washers..... then thought crap what that for. I am changing a few bit's next week and will put photos up if everything goes to plan or there will be a pic of a large fire in front of my house..

could be the thermostat and crap in the pipes.

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2177491 this could help.

answer to my own question is yes and it goes on the back where the bolts go to push both bits of bush together thanks for the help

do u hav an alloy header tank or a grey/black polly one. if so it could be the alloy gasket or the black one is very weak on a whole watch taking pipes off that as I snapped two just tightening them. also have you checked the washer on the lid of the header tank could be getting to temp and just blowing water out.

I have the powerflex bush kit for the rear diff. does anyone know were the washer goes in the kit. at the front near the diff at the back where the bolt is. or leave it off as when looking at the pic of them on I don't see the washer anywhere.

we do like custom made

just be careful when changing my car stereo thought I would save time and cut all wires from impreza and move straight over to forester and wire it up with the colour wires there. NOPE not that easy, they are all different coloured. so what I am saying could be different colour wires but same engine layout.

do u hav a split in the rad itself at the plastic area at the side. I had this but leaked from that area not the over flow tank. the split expanded with temp of car. I would say this was a sign of the head gone or air lock but both I would say easy to tell and bet you checked and I am telling you how to suck eggs. but keep us informed as am very interested in what this is. ;)