Mr B

Main M30 module easy replace and worth servicing siren with a new 9V rechargeable battery if do repair current M30 setup. You can get whole used M30 system pulled from a subaru cheap on ebay or a local breaker . If it just the main control module you can find them for around 50quid range (just be sure get a key or code with it for easy programming) . Hopefully all works out good and you up and running before xmas ...

It could be Just the Siren faulty (does the pin code allow car start even if siren barking), Siren has a 9v rechargeable battery in it that zip tied to the control board, battery leaks and board corrodes & siren does all sorts of odd things (come across this all the time due to age of them now) . not seen siren cause issue with fobs not working but you never know with electronics mixed with water/corrosion lol The siren is under scuttle panel, is easy open (2 screws down sides of slots for mounting bracket square nuts . you can disconnect siren wiring right at plugs on circuit board . New alarm not a big deal but is super cheap and quick swap out used parts of another working M30 and maintain original all in one keyfob ...

That the Sigma M30 alarm system. One would guess if 2 fobs not working then alarms receiver module got issues . Have you tried disconnecting vehicle battery for few minutes and retrying (including reprogramming fobs) A cheap and technically easy solution to faulty alarm system modules is buying a used complete M30 alarm (must be supplied with at least 1 working fob and/or pin code) & fitting main module/suspected faulty parts & programming fobs (you get extra fob which can be handy and board/casing could be used in one of your keys if needed . We done this method on at least 3 subarus in last year that I can recall & used parts cost was in the range of 80 to 120 quid & we had modules fitted, new 9v battery replacement to siren, new fob batteries and programmed in under 2 hours . Removal or bypassing the M30 is also not that hard but ideally you likely need some alarm/security for insurance purposes !

Buy an older Forester and save the planet, your sanity and your money . New vehicles are total garbage engineered to empty your bank account . The old SF And SG foresters from 98 to 2005 are far better component quality and engineering logic, you can leave then unused for 2 months plus and they'll start right up and battery of sensible quality level could last 4 to 7 years .

Ideal scenario is newest superseding parts, in your case of total damage of block crank then short block good way go . If block good then rebuild with newest crank design can be an option but block had redesigns and suspect flywheel/clutch and torsional damper has too . The cranks tend fatigue so reusing the early model ones never seems good way go . You can crack test & xray cranks but as the early ones known bad you best putting them straight in metal trash & going straight to better/new options . Trouble is a good effort rebuild or replacement new short block is quite costly, you could look at pricing a used 2012 engine & do a long block swap ...

common issue on these is crankshafts snapping and depending on circumstances that can damage block halves around the bearings or beyond . If rebuilding these ideally want use newest revision crankshaft and certainly no machine work to old fatigued crankshafts from known worse failure years of manufacture . These 2008 to 2012 engines are difficult to deal with in terms of guaranteeing worth while outcome from a major overhaul . Clutch plays huge role on torsional stresses crank gets so any replacement dual mass kit needs be ideally subaru oem or at least top spec oem manufacturer aftermarket parts . Here most boxer diesels with major engine issues tend go to scrap as proper effort repair addressing all potential issues you can come across dealing with these is not cost effective & not a 100% perfect result guarantee ...

If you want/need a new flywheel new is certainly close to 1K range, I've used LUK kits and flywheels and like the products .

Indeed they proper made and the 6 cylinder boxers are subarus best engine by far . Downside is fuel prices of today make these spendy to drive anywhere . (insurance and road tax also not great) . The auto box on the early cars was not the most refined or fuel economy helpful . The amount of buyers truly needing a car like this is really quite minimal, proper good condition and sensible low mileage will help sale but from what I see you looking at a price of about 1500 and probably see offers around 900 to 1k if want sell it without much hassle or wasted time . This time of year better for selling capable AWD vehicle but be aware if Israel war escalates and OPEC do an oil embargo fuel prices will go crazy & gas hungry cars like this be even more unwanted as economic/global chaos engulfs all markets .

I done a fair few at 9 to ten years and under 30K and all been surprisingly good, the UK market timing belt service is ridiculously low . Top quality components last well, the run of the mill aftermarket garbage is biggest culprit towards failure stories with poor fitting methods coming in second .

Gates kits are not great, we don't use them . Get the ICP kit which all oem manufacturer parts made in Japan Link below is for eBay, they do 10% off quite frequent & you may get better price/discount if call them and do order . Price is proper good for quality you getting . If want do water pump and it the naturally aspirated engines then the GMB water pumps and an original genuine metal gasket is good quality answer at sensible cost. Aisin pumps not what use to be unless sourcing from Aisin Japan factory and getting cast impellor versions like RCM stock . Being ultra fussy on water pumps only really needed for turbo cars, just avoid common 5h1te from ebay eurocarparts and your average motor factors . ICP do stock the GMB water pump (40quid'ish) and also the OEM metal gasket (7 quid'ish) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/284985258754 Timing belts on the NA Forester X ej201 is super easy pleasant job, even more so when using oem quality parts .

the answer s obviously yes and if Subaru engineers (well Toyota too) been smart they could of incorporated an emergency jump mode to get people out of the jam. Unfortunately they not even smart enough make a car with acceptable parasitic losses during parked-locked sleep state . Due to fact you still under warranty any alterations will effect the warranty . The smartest thing you can do is get rid of this garbage ASAP before it nothing but scrap value . These vehicles are inept engineering, sloppy computer software, poor quality components, questionable build assenbly and come with a dealership technical support that can't really diagnose real world faults or offer real solutions to known repeat failures & TSB highlighted issues . Unfortunately I get deal with lot of this garbage and it really is generally pointless misery spending time and money on most of it, they stopped making decent cars about 15 years ago , Newer you go the bigger the hassles and bills and worse the reliability & true environmental impact as the vehicles fill waste bins with massive amount of parts prematurely & the whole car is environmental joke to produce and has an appalling short lifespan potential . A Japanese engineer (Izuzu Diesel projects) once told me if want be environmental buy an older diesel, maintain it sensibly & keep your annual mileage low as sensibly can, no EV or hybrid gets even close to a good vehicle from late 90's to late 2000's for life to death true environmental impact evaluation once you take away the EV marketing BS . Real environmental solutions don't make money easily but the current marketed environmental wonders will drain your bank account just as good as it drains and ruins the auxiliary batteries lol .

They both BH generation outbacks so should be easy swap . Just look for any visual component differences and swap components/ sensors/wiring harness if find some differences . Do engine only assuming your transmission in good working order . It fairly easy process pulling engine on these, work on donor car first and learn from that . Few stubborn bolts and actually getting engine moving from transmission is the usual hang ups .

Just pick up a used pair of original OEM alloy arms from newage wrx/sti and rebush/ new balljoints as needed . Pair on eBay for 100 quid . If doing balljoints consider Subaru OEM (50 pound a pair) quality difference is night and day, current aftermaket is mainly garbage for suspension parts (well most parts unless super fussy and got current knowledge/experience on what half decent from what brands) .

Denso direct fit is 80 pounds range, universal denso (you re-pin or solder old plug connector) is about 48 pounds . Only ones we use is Denso purely as other options too high a further complication thus come back, and we don't want come backs or less than perfect function just to save 30 to 60 quid . don't know what ICP stocking or prices currently but Denso easy source online via eBay or part specialists .

Alloy ones are more rigid/strong design and don't rot, it a good upgrade .

I would assume it likely the replacement clutch used not the right spec pressure plate or faulty/damaged (any noise when operating the clutch !?, obviously pedal adjustment and hydraulics need visual inspection/checking before pulling a clutch a second time. You got be fussy on what pattern part clutches you use, lot are garbage, only ones we use for general basic subaru model replacements is LUK or Exedy . Fraction more part cost but saves me and the customer a lot of ballache and disappointment .

the centre diff (viscous coupling) is fairly easy replace, they come complete with bearing normally as a unit, not that cheap, you best looking up part numbers and searching for good price from that . I've had new oem units with bearing from 280 to 350 in past (not from dealer parts counter), not done a spec B so not sure how relevant that price range would be without looking at part data .

it not a MOT failure for noise, only for rubber boot damaged . Well worth sourcing a nice used one, over 300 for a new one and back order is just stupid money/hassle .... Or try sourcing new one from ICP or Amayama ...

you get what you pay for within reason, what exactly wrong with the joint ? does it really need replacing ! If the joint is bad I would consider genuine used over pattern part . loads of these diesels in the salvage system so pretty easy source used parts . They super easy replace so no bother for half decent local mechanic .

do all the vehicle tyres natch brand/model and wear ? Could undead be centre diff issue if tyres all as should be, it will stress the transmission & driveshafts severely if is ...

CVT fault, that what the screech is (CVT belt screeching) CVT transmission are garbage in the long term ...

yes, I can't see easy way do a euro 5 to 6 unless perhaps just used the 6 short block .

The general method I used on EE20 engine swaps was keep the original engine sensors and common rail system including the injectors . We done euro 4 to euro 5 engines . Don't do many as far too expensive and too many repeat failure areas without 100% fix solutions .

More a case of buy only quality made bearings from proper manufacturers (OEM ODM manufacturers preferably) The after market parts is full of complete garbage so you got be a bit smart or you bolting on more problems than removing . contact ICP (Import Car Parts), they on eBay and have own website and are well established . SKF or Blueprint are fine but avoid the cheaper euro/german stuff as lot of it chinese made garbage ... Japan mainland made bearings are very high quality .

lots of lowest cost sourced electronics and very little sensible gumption engineering thought is all you get for your money these days, newer the car the more garbage you got . amazing how they meant be good for environment yet you got drive the long way or you be waiting for the RAC van and contributing far more to waste with short life batteries and components 🙂. Like I keep saying, only thing newer vehicles good at is emptying owners savings accounts ...