Mr B

amazes me how modern consumer will just suck up poor quality products and poor service and just keep paying for it. About time they simply stopped buying the garbage . All my Subarus are over 20 years old, parts easy source but rarely ever need any besides general servicing items as engineering and component quality was far far better . Hassle free motoring and not filling up skips with parts/chemicals for recycle/landfill and the bank account reflects this lol .

The current sensing is for motor circuit protection, as voltage drops amps increase so things can get damaged or fires could start if running fully with lower voltage input . Battery health and power circuit to the steering motor good area inspect . Electric powered steering is another quality example of garbage idea and junky component engineering/quality . In such an important system the old hydraulic was far safer and far better for environment, it generally could last 2 to 3 decades, electric systems have issues in well under 10 years, are expensive diagnose and repair to good standard, a safety/reliability concern and more trash for landfill/recycle ... electric motor faults are fairly common possible cause, code reading diagnostics is not going pinpoint/verify the fault, at best it give some direction for doing tests/inspections on components/circuits but you got test components and collect data to fully diagnose . There is a very good reason all vehicle all my family members own are old models lol, I ain't got time repair there junk and they don't want waste good money and hassle on the newer vehicle garbage 🙂

Amen to this ... Classic example of this couple months back, guy had intermittent crank no start, asked our opinion, my hunch was possibly crank sensor bring it in for diagnosis . He didn't do that, went for a £20 aftermarket sensor DIY and problem seemed cured, some time passes then he stranded with a crank no start & gets a tow to our shop . The aftermarket sensor signal output was awful week lol . towing cost him fair chunk and he got what he paid for with the £20 sensor lol (a functionality/reliability gamble lol) . If he had bought OEM new for extra £50-60 he would of resolved original fault on a wise guess cheaply and smarty but no had go stupid cheap and then you or the next sucker got pay the real price at some point lol . Cheap sensors never work out cheap in long run lol . Very rare we ever use them, simply too unreliable be main part source and make your business look like a circus, few exceptions on old beater subarus when budget tight and vehicle life looking close to end but if you want no ballache top quality parts is a must and even bigger known aftermarket brands these days kick out some sloppy parts so you really need do homework on what brands are likely good quality/value . One of biggest issues as an independent is garbage parts even from trade motor factors, we don't use likes of ECP for anything, couple good independent factors and specialists and started stocking lot of parts ourselves of quality we happy fit and back with warranty . Import Car Parts is a good source of common parts OEM or fairly high quality aftermarket, educate yourself on parts prior to purchase to make wiser choices or you just pi55ing money down the drain and setting yourself up for a future ballache ...

aftermarket cheap brands on critical electrical components are always best avoided . If want no hassle new OEM always best way go and it buy once and job jobbed scenario . Amount of cars we get see with ballache to track down faults that turn out be garbage parts that been fitted before in a part change tryagnosis effort is unreal . You then got throw all the garbage quality in bin and hope they kept the original high quality parts as gets proper spendy if haven't lol . If doing labour yourself you may get lucky with a used genuine IACV , most issues with these is down to dirt but not that uncommon to be worn/faulty functioning . If paying labour many time better off new oem parts and job faultless first time . DIY then used can really pay off but do be prepared accept risk that some used parts going be bad but OEM used is way better than cheap aftermarket garbage, just be sure used parts you buy are OEM parts .

They added to get crash safety rating for europe market. can remove it but sharp mot inspector may comment and you could have insurance issues in a more serious accident claim . You can pick up the front frames in solid shape for peanuts off of eBay or marketplace so proper repair not expensive. some of the fixing bolts can be a right struggle though ... If the front frame rough I would do good in depth evaluation of rear frame and body structure and all suspension arms to get good idea on vehicle state then choose what want do based on evaluated condition .

None of parts in that pic look particularly new . tensioner and toothed idler don't look new and back of the belt have a lot of marks for 1200 miles ! Is the crank gear belt guide removed for investigation/photo or missing !? If none of that oem mainland japan made I would throw it in bin and buy the oem kit from ICP. About only kit we use these days as even bigger name aftermarket kits have some dubious quality chinese parts in them these days . Hard to tell what exactly wrong from just that 1 picture but the whole job needs evaluating and top quality parts used . It very easy job and the oem complete kits from ICP are not expensive so doing job to good standard is achievable for sensible cost/effort . I would assume it mainly tensioner issue and hydraulic seals failed but it not an area we skimp on or want run on assumptions alone so whole lot needs checking and ideally I would likely want replace whole timing belt parts including the belt and all idlers .

Well if anything hitting against shell you likely have witness mark from it . If it is coming from the strut it could be strut spring or top mount . don't overlook other suspension areas such as drop link or bushes. wheel bearings don't make knocking noises as a rule ... Best way forward is good visual inspection and if nothing obvious pull the strut for examination . What could be happening is the strut is bottoming out with the lowered spring now it few years older and settled lower .

car sale dealers put minimal coin into what they sell & anyone with half a brain would not put much into an almost 200K car expecting easy sale/profit . They didn't do the rear struts and do they think the sagging rear is not a problem ! Keep looking is good stuff around but got be patient and got be prepared travel a little unless super lucky .

First thing can see from images is rear self levelling suspension sagging so it will soon need replacement struts/springs on rear . Lot of mileage and it not exactly going cheap and mot soon be due ... over heating pretty common on 2.5 so need extra run time and checks in that area . 06 in the high road tax bracket and again that lowers retail price . Buying models like this from dealers in the 2.5 to 4K range is good way find mainly garbage, it mainly trade ins and auction scruff with minimal chance of stumbling on a good buy .

Corrosion is number one thing look out for on these, surface rust is going be the norm and that can be surface treated, heavy corrosion can get quite expensive and if it not localised rust you be chasing you tail for no long term benefit . Also don't think newer means better, late 90's to 2002 era about some of best made . Do good checks using MOT history and good visual inspection and that means a real good long look and poke around underneath, rust doesn't always show itself but steel can be rotted and collapse under physical inspection . Is fairly easy find these pretty clean and not many keen on larger engines so prices can be low/easy haggle . I would be more sceptical of dealer sales than private and that comes from 30 years trade experience lol, 99% of the good stuff comes private sales, biggest ballache and pork pies always dealers .

Your current rims look like 15" to me and would be 205/70/15 tyre size. These common and generally easy find steel rims on eBay or marketplace at various price points .

^ The hassle and expense electric handbrakes create is insane . We've had a few various vehicle transported in thanks to electric handbrake failures to disengage & I done a couple local mobile call outs to try save customer transportation costs. Some of the systems are pretty awful to use too even when system technically fully functioning . Amount of pointless poor engineered & cheaply sourced electrical/electronics in modern vehicles is waste of money and manufacture and a pollution concern . If people (excluding disabled cases) can not drive with a manual handbrake and without a stupid touchscreen vehicle interface perhaps they shouldn't drive at all, to me modern vehicle touch interfaces and jog switches are more of a safety concern than talking on a mobile . Common sense and good engineering has gone out the window and marketing BS and !Removed! every penny they can out of consumer under false pretences and bottom of the barrel manufacture seems be the common practice ...

would be good if the component upgrade was a wire cable and lever system, what an engineering marvel that would be lol . Elecric handbrakes is nothing but engineering stupidity .

around 30mAh +- 10mAh would be a more normal expected range of current drawer while vehicle parked and modules sleeping . You need get that checked or check it yourself if have a DMM . Parasitic drawer is quite a issue on vehicles the newer you go, partially as poor electrical engineering choices allowing for higher parasitic values and partially the trend for pointless low quality electronic systems . Go back to pre 2002 and parasitic values be 10 to 20mAh and you could leave these vehicles months and they still start and battery lifespan be longer because of it too . My battery recycling volume has gone through the roof thanks to poorer quality batteries and car electrical systems that function inefficiently ...

Yes Scotland and corrosion is an issue. Can still find pretty good examples down my way, automatics tend be easier find clean than the manuals . I big fan of electronic injection but not a fan of current trend of electronics and electrical control when not really any benefit and engineered poorly in all areas from programming, component quality & even poor choices of location of electronics in the vehicle . All we see these days is ever increasing electrical issues and short life components that getting worse the newer the car is. The repair costs can be pretty crazy too, reality is driving a early 2000's Forester until end of viable service life vs a current Hybrid/EV would be minimal cost and hassle and probably even better for environment over EV considering potential short life of EV and fact you using fossil fuels make the majority of the electric .

P0420 is cat efficiency, this is calculated from readings of front rear O2 sensors and a lazy sensor or exhaust leaks can cause this code . The other codes are all related to same issue of steering angle sensor fault or wiring/connection/signal issue with stability control . Both issues really need professional scan tool with experienced user as first step of diagnosis to review sensor readings/values for clues of problem part . Newer cars are total ballache, the older vehicles up to early 2006 are far more reliable and low maintenance thus low costs . I suspect you be far better off hunting down a real nice clean sensible mileage 2003 to 2005 Forester SG example . Newer cars are complete waste of money and time from what I witness daily ...

if it works it the right tool for the job lol ... Job jobbed .

advertise it marketplace gumtree and so forth, spares or repair needs be trailered as sorn ... lots of good parts and if corrosion not real bad possibly could go back on road, sure sounds like good donor car though.

The best component quality and factory build effort was 1998 to 2005 roughly . besides better longevity of things like suspension due to both part quality the engineering choices you also benefit from less emission garbage that nothing but endless warning lights once aged plus common parts are cheap even for oem quality on earlier cars . Road tax likely better too pre 2005 and your insurance won't have be stupid expensive on fairly low value vehicle . Forget the 2.5 unless stumbled on something absolute too good overlook and aim for the EZ engines as they are a gem in durability and offer good performance for vehicle size . You may want look at Outback too if that sort of vehicle practicality any advantage to you . On older cars main thing be thorough on is rust and you need truly look hard save any expensive mistakes

That out of spec, you can adjust the pedal from under the dash which might improve biting point but if clutch well worn it may not give results you hoping for . Clutches on these don't hold out great & quality clutch is spendy job

All it highlights is massive incompetence of Subaru UK ...

Mmm, Needs a good visual and leak down test . If your mechanics compression results correct surprised runs very good at all, if you using no oil/water and compression truly that low on one side then it more than likely valve/timing issue or cylinder to cylinder gasket failure perhaps (has timing belt jumped/gone slack). Such a sudden transition from running okay to failure is not norm for engine internal failure but could be for cam belt/timing issue . Don't overlook basics until compression/leakdown double checked/verified with cause found . Really needs competent investigation, heads can be pulled in frame pretty easily if clued up on it but if does need some level engine work costs going mount up even if do some work yourself .

Not a lot of details here to help give most useful response. What technical issues having leading up to doing compression testing and has any recent work been done to motor ? Initial assumption would be valve issues or valve timing on the poor compression reading head . A good visual and bore scope might give some answers quickly, leak down test be useful too .

Assume it elec motor to hub issue but usual no clarity on real nuts and bolt of it lol (much like diesel crank and Hybrid parasitic/battery issues lol) . Would assume it a pretty difficult fix post manufacture as if was not embarrassing and was easy remedy it would of been highlighted so as this bad press costs them millions and creates massive environmental waste from manufacturing & shipping faulty garbage all over the place for nothing lol . Anyone who thinks current electric vehicles going save the environment really need look into industrial manufacture & electricity manufacture and think a bit harder, you won't fix issues of industrialism by throwing more industrialism at it . If it wasn't so serious it would be funny ... I remember good old Subarus that do 20 to 30 years service and hardly ever need any major parts. Anything euro 5 onwards fills a skip with repair and service parts in 8 years and vehicle itself pretty much crusher garbage within 10 years, not even much salvage interest as such poor engineering/manufacture .

Really highlights the current manufacturing negligence and engineering effort to reduce everything to minimal expenditure, durability and lifespan . Not good for Subaru, It's golden age of top reliability and good gumption engineering is down the toilet thanks to the diesel, hybrid issues and general electrical glitches, poor durability on the newer models . Luckily haven't sold many. What amazes me is how so many people can so easily spend 30 to 60 grand on this modern vehicle garbage !