Mr B

Condition very much key to the value. If it really clean and sensibly maintained and not got usual sagging rear suspension or non working front windows it worth more than most and more so at 66K miles. You don't say if it all weather model but that a factor as will manual/automatic transmission . average price seems be 1.5 to 2K . If proper clean I would aim close to 3K and see what interest/offers you get, you can come down in price but you can't go up ... late autumn and winter tends be easier time sell AWD Subarus and prices tend be higher. current fuel prices may make some desirability difference ! Reality is you don't get that many proper clean ones (manual models being harder find clean) and not many that low mileage . Have a look at prices in your area on facebook, eBay, Autotrader, Gumtree and work out something realistic to start off with ...

Any other codes ? If you got a laptop look at using FreeSSM software and a cable that costs around £10 . Android app and dongle good option too but good dongles cost 20 to £40 . If it is O" sensor they not crazy money, only use Denso and front is under £80 and rear of cat is about £40 (can be found on eBay) P0032 Heater circuit code, that easy do some checks with basic multimeter and google youtube have some subaru specific guides that probably help ...

Does it use any engine oil ? Have you removed some turbo/intake pipes and check no oil in the intake from the new turbo ? Seems new turbo fitted issue could be linked to that spanner work or turbo such as boost pressures etc ...

Sounds like all wheel drive binding/hopping/drive shaft wind up, possibly viscous centre differential failing. Will be more noticeable on tighter lock low speed manoeuvres. not keeping tyres all matching make & close wear level can cause viscous diff problems but also high miles, challenging road conditions of ice snow and light off road can lead to occasional failures . Plenty information on google that may help you evaluate/diagnose. Viscous diff binding well known within the industry on AWD vehicles ... Viscous diff not super cheap but hunting around once have part number save good money as can using someone with experience to do the work as they do job faster and with less errors ... good luck ...

assuming your new key been used before (tried & tested) without issues it likely a fault with the auto selector position switch linked to key barrel with a lockout control . try nudging selector ever so slightly in various directions and try remove key each time you nudge selector lever a bit ...

shame most creasing right in spot with lot of shape and edges , Is likely reparable, certainly worth looking into that option via 2 or 3 local reputable bodyshops . A new bumper is likely £250 and up range plus paint and swapping over lower bumper mouldings . I would review all options and see where it takes you in terms of part sourcing, local bodyshop opinion & pricing .

SG will fit but bottom edge of it differs a lot in styling, you got a pic of it, if not cracked you be surprised how easy they reshape with hot air gun so repair/refinishing might be viable option . Trouble I get when sourcing used bumpers or panels is generally finish not great so likely need some paintwork anyway be A1 . Is great when do get nice condition and original factory paint and right colour used panels as cost effective quick quality repair .

swap battery to original one and see if battery good by arming/disarming alarm . Isn't uncommon have dead buttons on these, you can tell well used ones as the soft touch coating wears off and the button will of lost it's tactile feel . With the tags not being readable on back could not be 100% on the comparability but initial gut feeling is either battery/battery contact or faulty button ! your eBay one does physically look likely well used .

Can you do a picture front and back of your original remote and the one you bought used . Sounds like it either incompatible remote or faulty ... Have you tried programming and trying the eBay one first and see if recognises it and bleeps ?

That seems a fair result, really luck on what local outfits you got . Price can be silly lol ... The Subaru transponders are not easiest to clone but they nothing over special by modern standards . Should be easy programming the outback remote fob. You want remove the transponder chip from it, lot of people cut key off and put them on key chain, you can graft a key blade on them and put the new key transponder chip inside the oem key fob housing but is fair amount of effort do well .

Volvo is particularly awkward full stop from software diag support perspective . We do some Subaru via autel but have SSM software too . Used keys go pretty cheap so if got not luck with a locksmith doing transponder you could get a used oem transponder and try find a local garage/tuner to program it . Plenty options so hopefully get something sorted, even worth asking a local Subaru dealer price on programming transponder you supply as they might do you a fair price !

First thing you do is follow procedure of programming a new 4 digit pin code using your working remote. once you done that, check your new pin code works and once sure it does and got some experience using the keypad do the procedure for the remote fobs . Sorting key and transponder going be very much down to luck of what locksmiths are local to you, these transponder and keys are nothing special and pretty easy for auto locksmith . Another option is you pick up a used key from same era subaru and use transponder from that and get a local garage program it and put it in the remote fob (autel software covers security key programming) If you bought used key with fob you could cut and shut new key blank to it and it have a transponder chip in it already .

Subaru will be stupid money for a key, auto locksmith should be around 40 to £60 for a cut key with a transponder inside programmed to match your existing one. *transponder immobiliser is built in by subaru at factory, the Sigma was added afterwards to meet EU/UK vehicle security laws for imported vehicles . You can buy a used Sigma M30 keyfob and program it yourself, you can also setup a new 4 digit pin using your current working keyfob . Setup a 4 digit pin as first step as if mess fob programming up you can still use the pin code to try process again . M30 instructions attached ... m30.pdf

Have a good hunt around fusebox area and glovebox for keypad. try post a photo of keypad so we likely identify what you got . Spare key can be done by auto locksmith, key has a transponder chip in it but they can copy from key you already have . If you do have the standard Sigma M30 then adding extra keyfobs is potentially DIY task and plenty available used via eBay etc .

Check the harness wiring and connector plug first ... New oem sensor around £50, ICP or other online sources available should you need one . Fair bit of info online that may help you self diagnose rather than potentially waste money part shooting ... Good luck ...

If original shocks in good order just get KYB springs (£90 a pair or less). The original shocks are hydraulic self levelling and good quality so if good working order no point binning it for standard type shocks and upping the cost of job. Don't be afraid of pulling the springs and refitting as it pretty easy as springs softer on the self levelling so not so hard compress . Could even take parts to a local friendly garage to swap springs over and you refit assembled shock units .

No such recall here in UK, a friendly main dealer may give a discounted price perhaps ! (it easy job) Do see fair few snapped springs on SJ foresters but no big deal change them . Certainly don't go paying £500 or even half that, you can buy a pair of whole complete strut assemblies for under £400 . Aftermarket spring is roughly £50 (KYB), new OEM roughly 100 . Fitting is hours labour but maybe another 30-45 minutes if bit of a rusty mess to deal with during disassembly. Nothing complex & it bread & butter work we do daily . No extra parts and it about 140 a side, some extra new bolt/bush parts and it could be 200+ a side .

Yes great for environment is LED technology lol . Seems the car makers spotted batten lights that replace tubes and are throw away units and copying the scam, lots of waste , mainly owners money lol . Buy old and you can keep them running for pocket change for decades . New anything is complete trash in few years and people buy it thinking they saving the planet ! ...

yes the key with integrated fob is still M30 alarm .

try instructions in the m30 alarm manual (attached). While at it if you don't have a 4 digit pin code for alarm keypad be sure set new one while got a working remote fob . m30.pdf

That factory coating, it dries out and flakes off after 15 odd years. In the rear arches it can look fine on outside but can knock holes in inner arch and turret as rot from inside . With arches you can recote with underseal but rest of underneath best done with a wax rust treatment & inside of rear arch and sill best done with cavity wax . Hope you enjoying the purchase, best of luck ....

that was interesting . you got to love Japan ...

No, probably not put me off . Some surface corrosion fair enough but you got be prudent in inspection as it hides itself well and good welding work is not cheap, other issue is rusty rear ends means lot of bolts/bushes all junk when start trying dismantle for repair jobs . I always tend find XT cleaner than non turbo's as tend get used less as a country farm wagon . You going know more on this vehicle than me as visual inspection is what counts . Perhaps have another look and try barter price allow for some repair work problems . With price of fuel and road tax and SG not being such a classic as SF they not that quick to sell and even less so spring & summer time . Good luck ...

hard to say from images . All they really tells me is you want have proper good check for corrosion in usual problems areas of rear inner sill around trailing arm mount,rear inner arch around seat belt mount and turret walls., get hand up on top of rear subframe and see what that feels like, also check front u frame for corrosion . Need a good dig around and good tap to here and feel metal solid . Is a fair few XT around between 2003 and early 2005 & it generally fairly easy find proper tidy one if don't rush into it, best rule with used car is if got doubts/concerns don't buy & keep looking . More you look at more experience you gain on what right & potentially wrong and value . Always worth the extra for very tidy well maintained examples as generally saves you hundreds and headaches . Private sales generally better than trade in honesty and price ...

Best advice is avoid diesel . up to 2013 was the worst for boxer diesel but any modern era diesel is potential high maintenance so only buy diesels when it actually truly needed benefit . Don't overlook older vehicles, most of the best made high reliability is late 90's to 2005 era. 80% of my workload is new garbage electrical and emission systems and none of it cheap and many times owners already blown serious money and still got same faults and they at wits end with almost empty bank accounts lol .