Mr B

Can you do a picture front and back of your original remote and the one you bought used . Sounds like it either incompatible remote or faulty ... Have you tried programming and trying the eBay one first and see if recognises it and bleeps ?

That seems a fair result, really luck on what local outfits you got . Price can be silly lol ... The Subaru transponders are not easiest to clone but they nothing over special by modern standards . Should be easy programming the outback remote fob. You want remove the transponder chip from it, lot of people cut key off and put them on key chain, you can graft a key blade on them and put the new key transponder chip inside the oem key fob housing but is fair amount of effort do well .

Volvo is particularly awkward full stop from software diag support perspective . We do some Subaru via autel but have SSM software too . Used keys go pretty cheap so if got not luck with a locksmith doing transponder you could get a used oem transponder and try find a local garage/tuner to program it . Plenty options so hopefully get something sorted, even worth asking a local Subaru dealer price on programming transponder you supply as they might do you a fair price !

First thing you do is follow procedure of programming a new 4 digit pin code using your working remote. once you done that, check your new pin code works and once sure it does and got some experience using the keypad do the procedure for the remote fobs . Sorting key and transponder going be very much down to luck of what locksmiths are local to you, these transponder and keys are nothing special and pretty easy for auto locksmith . Another option is you pick up a used key from same era subaru and use transponder from that and get a local garage program it and put it in the remote fob (autel software covers security key programming) If you bought used key with fob you could cut and shut new key blank to it and it have a transponder chip in it already .

Subaru will be stupid money for a key, auto locksmith should be around 40 to £60 for a cut key with a transponder inside programmed to match your existing one. *transponder immobiliser is built in by subaru at factory, the Sigma was added afterwards to meet EU/UK vehicle security laws for imported vehicles . You can buy a used Sigma M30 keyfob and program it yourself, you can also setup a new 4 digit pin using your current working keyfob . Setup a 4 digit pin as first step as if mess fob programming up you can still use the pin code to try process again . M30 instructions attached ... m30.pdf

Have a good hunt around fusebox area and glovebox for keypad. try post a photo of keypad so we likely identify what you got . Spare key can be done by auto locksmith, key has a transponder chip in it but they can copy from key you already have . If you do have the standard Sigma M30 then adding extra keyfobs is potentially DIY task and plenty available used via eBay etc .

Check the harness wiring and connector plug first ... New oem sensor around £50, ICP or other online sources available should you need one . Fair bit of info online that may help you self diagnose rather than potentially waste money part shooting ... Good luck ...

If original shocks in good order just get KYB springs (£90 a pair or less). The original shocks are hydraulic self levelling and good quality so if good working order no point binning it for standard type shocks and upping the cost of job. Don't be afraid of pulling the springs and refitting as it pretty easy as springs softer on the self levelling so not so hard compress . Could even take parts to a local friendly garage to swap springs over and you refit assembled shock units .

No such recall here in UK, a friendly main dealer may give a discounted price perhaps ! (it easy job) Do see fair few snapped springs on SJ foresters but no big deal change them . Certainly don't go paying £500 or even half that, you can buy a pair of whole complete strut assemblies for under £400 . Aftermarket spring is roughly £50 (KYB), new OEM roughly 100 . Fitting is hours labour but maybe another 30-45 minutes if bit of a rusty mess to deal with during disassembly. Nothing complex & it bread & butter work we do daily . No extra parts and it about 140 a side, some extra new bolt/bush parts and it could be 200+ a side .

Yes great for environment is LED technology lol . Seems the car makers spotted batten lights that replace tubes and are throw away units and copying the scam, lots of waste , mainly owners money lol . Buy old and you can keep them running for pocket change for decades . New anything is complete trash in few years and people buy it thinking they saving the planet ! ...

yes the key with integrated fob is still M30 alarm .

try instructions in the m30 alarm manual (attached). While at it if you don't have a 4 digit pin code for alarm keypad be sure set new one while got a working remote fob . m30.pdf

That factory coating, it dries out and flakes off after 15 odd years. In the rear arches it can look fine on outside but can knock holes in inner arch and turret as rot from inside . With arches you can recote with underseal but rest of underneath best done with a wax rust treatment & inside of rear arch and sill best done with cavity wax . Hope you enjoying the purchase, best of luck ....

that was interesting . you got to love Japan ...

No, probably not put me off . Some surface corrosion fair enough but you got be prudent in inspection as it hides itself well and good welding work is not cheap, other issue is rusty rear ends means lot of bolts/bushes all junk when start trying dismantle for repair jobs . I always tend find XT cleaner than non turbo's as tend get used less as a country farm wagon . You going know more on this vehicle than me as visual inspection is what counts . Perhaps have another look and try barter price allow for some repair work problems . With price of fuel and road tax and SG not being such a classic as SF they not that quick to sell and even less so spring & summer time . Good luck ...

hard to say from images . All they really tells me is you want have proper good check for corrosion in usual problems areas of rear inner sill around trailing arm mount,rear inner arch around seat belt mount and turret walls., get hand up on top of rear subframe and see what that feels like, also check front u frame for corrosion . Need a good dig around and good tap to here and feel metal solid . Is a fair few XT around between 2003 and early 2005 & it generally fairly easy find proper tidy one if don't rush into it, best rule with used car is if got doubts/concerns don't buy & keep looking . More you look at more experience you gain on what right & potentially wrong and value . Always worth the extra for very tidy well maintained examples as generally saves you hundreds and headaches . Private sales generally better than trade in honesty and price ...

Best advice is avoid diesel . up to 2013 was the worst for boxer diesel but any modern era diesel is potential high maintenance so only buy diesels when it actually truly needed benefit . Don't overlook older vehicles, most of the best made high reliability is late 90's to 2005 era. 80% of my workload is new garbage electrical and emission systems and none of it cheap and many times owners already blown serious money and still got same faults and they at wits end with almost empty bank accounts lol .

that sucks as shows as London . If was Poland it been pretty quick, we get some exhausts via poland along with some oem parts at times and it 7 to 10 days . Glad to here all fitted good, have fun with the Fozzy ...

Indeed it becomes difficult to drive safely when that under powered . If doing 7K a year you could stick with annual service pattern, you could do 5 or 6K changes at the mileage interval but if not doing it yourself you may find this inconvenient in booking into the service shop versus one annual trip . I not a big fan of 10 to 12K oil intervals, it good for selling point but 8 years later we see massive difference in engines with more regular changes . It just about getting sensible balance so not throwing oil and filters and your money away too wastefully .

What miles do you actually do in 6 months ? Sticking to a 6k miles regime is sensible as is not throwing away good serviceable oil and filter just because 6 months are up . Problem with new cars is the basic engine & transmission mechanicals will outlast the electronics/electricals & appalling emissions systems by a a decade plus (excluding subaru diesel engines lol) Most of our work and expensive repairs are all newer cars and electrical/emission/ safety related equipment . They already getting border line close to not financial viable repair when not long out of warranty and main dealer assistance 😕 The hybrid going be much same as the 2008-2011 diesels and being scrapped in huge numbers as worthless garbage too costly make work and some faults unfixable as manufacture engineering mistakes/choices with no viable solutions . The amount of moaning I get from any owner of a hybrid is simply astounding, it a miserable and costly experience for a lot of people 😞

what model forester, what year, engine,transmision etc . You certainly can get them for much less than £400, used original can be good way go, be careful with aftermarket and refurbs as many are garbage even compared to decent used . I only use aftermarket when totally stuck on options as get too many issues such as noisy or vibrations straight out the box or within few months plus joint boots can be awful quality/fit and end up split or popping off . Rear going be bit more forgiving on what used than a front would be, what the reason for needing a complete replacement shaft ?

The enclosed end is the inner (subframe attached) The outer bush is a pillow ball bush and presses into the hub . Should be these but review image & confirm with seller to save any ballache . 1x bush https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/124078842308? 2x bush https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/124078842334?

It will but you need swap injectors over as they calibration coded unless equiped program them, later engines need more swapped. Only worth doing if confident donor engine going be A1 runner and your car got no other issues such as poor dpf or egr issues . Could ideally need a clutch too and the costof good effort gets spendy. Most we get in unfortunatly go to salvage/scrap as most owners not willing spend big and we can't do shortcuts on these as they total ballache and liability and don't want come-backs and hassle .

Okay thank you, don't seem be getting notifications on PM's .

We can put these to good use saving a Forester SF that needs all new struts/hardware and make it cost viable repair. (will fit SF but got adapt brake line brackets) PM me, can pay a sensible part cost and shipping .