Mr B

Have you tried programming just one fob ? and if that does not work try program procedure again with other fob . Picking up a used fob or borrowing another fob for a test would be a fairly easy way forward in diagnosis .

Well originally it a tapered end doughnut that sits on a snub of the front pipe, idea of this and the springs is spring provide fixed tension and tapered end dougnut allows some angle variation and whole concept has some vibration/expansion ability . You won't be able reconstruct it to be exact same principle but it not a big deal, the flange joint will need a metal graphite gasket (examples link) just use some 8.8 grade bolts/nuts and decent thick washers . The good thing with the clamped slip joint is that allows small degree of alignment angle change and some expansion and vibration relief . On the slip joint the slits should be at 90degrees to the u bolts nuts as outer pipe closes better that way as tighten u bolt clamp and it tends reduce tendency of small leaks at the pipe slip joint slits . You going want fairly long repair flange pipe 8" being minimal , The front pipe larger expanded diameter would be removed and your repair pipe would be chosen to fit over the slimmer main diameter . Easy job if measure up and buy parts wisely . Cheap too and Russia mess going be costing us all enough 😕

With one of the flanged repair sections with flange one end and expanded other end for clamp you could do quality long term repair yourself . The bolts would be grade 10.9 . Only blades we have much with a carbide tipped, spendy but do job quick and neat . You done the hard work, I would go for the glory and get yourself a repair flange section and save yourself a garage bill and treat the wife to a box of chocolates lol .

Potentially yes as moisture and minerals can collect around it and get drawn in via capillary action . Reality is at this vehicle life point it not a big deal, any type of half decent repair here going outlast the next major exhaust failure that requires larger repair/replacement solution . I have used a few flanged repairs that flange one end and clamp the other to save owner buying a cat when metal too poor condition risk welding and they lasted well, one I done close to 4 years ago and was fine when done last mot pre inspection and service work . Done well and in the right instances they very cost viable and will last .

Your only real option of good home repair is buying a flanged repair section that slip over the front pipe and be clamped as expanded slip joint and bolts to the centre flange. See eBay link to get idea of what you want to achieve this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/233362362813 You can use exhaust joint paste or a high end polyurethane sealant with some success but this area of exhaust harder seal due to heat and back pressure at play. You don't really want cut the flange off centre pipe as it perfectly good although not end of world if replaced with decent option and installation This is a super easy fix for any half decent garage and for exhaust shop that does fabrication it even simpler as they will have lot of stocked parts and this is gravy work for them . We do a fair few of this on all models as a common failure area on older cars and more so in heavily road salted areas such as Scotland . Personally I would suggest you save money by avoiding temporary repair unless can do a worthwhile option/effort and get it sorted at garage as a repair to existing front pipe. You most certainly don't want any new front pipes if can be avoided and you also want avoid aftermarket especially cat sections as fit and function along with quality is not even close to factory oem .

It like 5 minutes a strut to dismantle, we hardly ever use new top mounts or rubber insulator as they generally will be good and zero hassle swap parts over compared to cost/hassle new if not truly needed ! The rubber insulators will be 99% likely reusable, generally only time we use new is when build up SG Forester struts to fit old SF Forester . If you do need the try ICP (import car parts) or local subaru dealers parts department, give them part number and tell them it spring insulator and await the price surprise .

every one will do it at some point, it issue of fatigue and torsional overload that never fully resolved, 3rd revision on crank and blocks are improved but not immune to problems, 2008 to 2012 is the worst, in the trade they avoided tike a new covid strain .. . Absolutely everyone knows about it so if you got any dealers saying otherwise it professional lies ... most common mileage range is 80K to 1140K but anything possible, under warranty period dealers had them in with snapped cranks at less than 50K. Most now don't get repaired as quite simply exceeds cost of the vehicle and they not worth a lot on used market because of crank issue and several other issues such as dpf egr, injector learning and stretched cam chains (all expensive and all quite common). They are quite simply misery for owners at some point in time and huge amount scrapped already, we had a lot that gone salvage as engine replacement expensive route and it still got the engineering flaw and quite possibly other areas that need repairs be perfect functioning, shocking but that modern garbage and much same across the board, part quality is at an all time low, is an absolute ***** getting parts that work and keeping repair cost customer viable ... I got no idea why so many people buy this expensive garbage ! is money easy come by !!!

Main tip avoid diesel, no beneficial savings due to higher diesel cost, poor real world mpg and higher maintenance/service needs of modern diesel. repair costs on diesels thanks to egr and dpf problems ruin owners bank accounts and cause lot of ownership stress ( I see the hassle daily and it SERIOUSLY not fun) The early diesels have coomon crank failure issue (even later not 100% free of crank breakages) and this leaves you with scrap on wheels generally (we still getting 2008 to 2013 boxer diesel engines failures in and it a sad scenario for customers) If you want proper made, proper reliable you far far far better off buying from 200 to 2005 era, Outbacks and Foresters from this era are the best built subaru . Newer car you buy the more it will cost you in purchase, repair/running costs and ownership ballache . Quality and engineering concepts of newer cars across the board is APPALLING Do yourself a favour and take time pick a proper prestine condition early 2000 era model at sensible money, do initial good service work bring it to A+ order and enjoy years of minimal hassle and expense. Parts on this era Subaru are pretty cheap, just be sure educate yourself on part prices and brand quality and use garages that know what they doing as many won't and you will be paying there tuition fees ... If you are doing serious high miles and diesel a must you best look at Volvo XC D5 models pre 2006 ...

Did you buy those Kamoka mounts as see they sold ? was cheaper than we could get on trade account .

What I would suggest you do is not cut the front flange if it good condition, you would be far wiser get a pre cut flange (measure your flange bolt spacing) and taking that and your flexipipe to a shop and get them weld flange on (exhaust shop likely have a flange) then you got one side oem style which be far easier to fit and far easier/less problematic further down ownership line . May seem like more hassle but it likely work out less long term . also be sure as much as possible old pipe is inserted in the slip over joints or they will leak and be hard seal as lot more heat cycling back pressure and vibration/movement in this area all making it harder job make joins stay leak free .

You can reuse the old top mounts if not a rusted mess (generally they are good order) & the lower rubber seats (insulators) are reusable. You will add another potential £100 to the cost buying all these new in quality brand . I get the insulator rubber seats from amayama via UAE, For a pair it probably cost £15 . Top mounts would be KYB SM5422 preferably (Left & Right are same so buy 2), cheaper option Kamoka currently but ideally reuse originals unless seriously corroded/perished mess which generally they not without other areas showing serious corrosion . Part links > top mounts KYB https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/174630875249 top mounts Kamoka https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/303871243537 rubber spring seat insulators https://www.amayama.com/en/part/subaru/20375fc001

she wants a spring and spring not expensive on SH forester .

The battery life is short thanks to high parasitic draw when vehicle in sleep state and inefficient charge control all of which basically poor engineering choices . It a massive problem with so called eco vehicles creating lot of waste thanks to part and vehicle short lifespans thanks to the garbage engineering and garbage part quality and wasting owners money by the bucket load . It not exclusive to Subaru, caveat emptor . A genuine battery in a Japanese car use to last close to 8years, today you will be lucky if the whole eco car still cost viable last 8 years and it probably used over 8 batteries as well lol . environmental genius !

RA6028 springs sound ideal for you then and what I recommend as keeps vehicle more usable, They only £20 more than the RC6431 as a pair . KYB is 99% what we use on these as good quality and currently prices very good . Is very common on SF and SG foresters to have sagging rear suspension around 14 years old or anywhere between 90K and 130K pending on vehicle usage and luck , Fortunately it pretty cheap resolve and to be fair shocks well worth replacing on old and high mileage vehicles anyway . You will need new bump stop rubbers as they generally not suitable for reuse, KYB do these in shock protection kits and include shock protection bellow at £21 for whole kit covering 2 shocks. Protection kit KYB 910046 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/234359305433 It super easy job fitting the shocks, is a thread on here walking through process with few tips .

Technically you will have none that match if check via vin or reg as your Foz has Subaru own design high pressure gas over hydraulic self levelling system and no one does a self levelling replacement shocks beside genuine subaru (made by Tokico Japan) . The good news is the units you got fit but you MUST pair with springs that non self levelling spec (SLS). SLS spring are softer as the high pressure in a SLS strut assists the spring and that how it gets height control (uses valves and hydraulics and strut motion as a pump) . If you use original springs the rear sags same as with original struts with failed SLS . Ideally you want use KYB springs RA6028 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/274891435996 They (RA6028) are 14.6mm thick coils and give best ride height on aftermarket shocks. If you do absolute no towing and carry no heavy load you can use KYB springs RC6431 but these can sit a little on low side of standard ride height spec as they lighter duty with 13.5mm thick coils The factory SLS spec springs are 12.5mm thick coils and CAN NOT be used with aftermarket shocks . Is a fair few threads on this forrum covering rear suspension, I always use KYB 334344 and KYB 334345 for rear shocks as they cheap on eBay as overstock clearance and they made in japan quality plus KYB is an OEM for Subaru (original front struts and top mounts all made by KYB)

You just fit/weld a repair flange section in and fit new bolts/springs . worst case scenario on that join is both front pipe and centre pipe flanges are rotted and need replacing . Decent exhaust specialist should sort that pretty easy, highly unlikely need replace whole front pipe unless well corroded . Exact cost really depends on state of corrosion of your exhaust and whether you can get away with just front pipe flange side of joint needing replacement .

For preventative repair you should be able get that done way cheaper than your dealer quote . plenty good mls head gaskets from original to rcm cosworth etc .

It was only graphite gaskets on some non turbo engines that had known issues & TSB . Subaru mls gaskets are pretty good, head design along with maintenance driving style and tune is more linked to failures . With high mileage and if been leaking for a long time you could require more than just head gaskets, more so if been tuned. Really need engine health assessment before considering repair options .

look at you front grille and see if it early design or facelift design . I wouldn't recommend aftermarket complete mirrors as quality/fit is far from great , would need be rhd compliant mirrors too for rhd model for wide angle glass be correct, some don't even use wide angle glass . you better off hunting used original parts, facebook marketplace can turn up some local cars being broken , try local salvage yards too . Mirrors can be spendy, actually had a 2001 outback that was initially an insurance right off due to 2 mirrors in the shop last year .

KYB Sachs or Bilstein is aftermarket shock options You can pick up used easy enough as plenty scrapped diesel foresters 2009/2013 . New Subaru OEM not crazy money . Easy enough reuse spring, insulators and top mounts if they all good order . Don't go cheap/off brand parts as they garbage in no time or even right out the box lol . If you use forester off road a bit hard beat the OEM struts as they have slightly more compression and droop range and built more stout .

It a case of toyota share some of the tech, Issue is a mess and thought they learnt after the diesel crank fiasco . Unfortunately most new cars are an expensive misery to live with, you far better keeping your money and hand picking better made older vehicles . I got no idea why people waste 25K-35K on new garbage so easily, I wouldn't want newer vehicles if given to me free . awful quality and engineering . Nothing eco about newer cars, most will be scrap in 8 years and filled garage scrap/waste bins with parts/chemical waste and emptied owners bank accounts thanks to endless faults .

main dealer your best bet & they not totally silly price . Is another thread on here covering a bit more detail on SH rear springs .

Buy quality and clean examples of older models. Anything new and more so with hybrid tech will be 'issues' you get tired of very quickly .

Exactly this,while ev may not have a tail pipe it will be producing problem pollutants in its manufacture, maintenance and constant demand of grid power . The real truth lies in analysis of birth to death of vehicle and the new stuff falls short as it consumes hell of a lot of parts and is likely have far shorter lifespan . Batteries are far from friendly in manufacture and same for solar panels especially if consider all the open mining for raw materials, recycling batteries is difficult procedure too either in smelting or chemical leeching and it made harder by all manufacturers having secret battery recipes that makes efficient recycling harder. Trouble is current environmentalism is purely targetting consumer wallets, the real answers unfortunately don't make the same profits .

+1, for genuine that decent price and assume you likely get 10% off that if say you a subaru club member . Is worth noting eBay got 20% off code LOVE20OFF at moment so you could get this SKF at sensible money (£55) from parts in motion (we use them a lot and stock parts using 20% codes as sometimes it stupid cheap) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/334242300694 (Check with seller by sending reg to confirm part correct) Is lot of poor quality parts aftermarket these days (ECP and NAPA being 2 pumping lot of garbage) so we tend use original more than ever for suspension parts and elec sensors as prices can be that close but the quality and function is no where near close lol . Garbage parts and most factors stocking garbage is one of biggest problems in car repair trade today . Diff swarf looks normal ...