Mr B

That a really clever alignment tool idea, perfect solution for alignment but not good for holding pulley for removal or fitting of bolt . Main thing got be careful of when holding pulley to remove tight bolt is whatever method you using doesn't damage teeth edges on pulley .

use a piece of wood and screw belt into sides of it. that about simplest diy simple tool option you can make a really nice tool if got a welder or can use thick angle iron and cut notches in it to slip belt in and out of . main thing that keeps them tight is factory loctite, bit of heat from plumbers style gas torch can help, don't go mad on heat hough or ruin cam seal .

^ is this still the original sigma alarm module . the receiver and antenna are all part of main sigma alarm module . If pincode working then does point to remote receiver issue thus good working used sigma module likely the easy and sensible cost fix . Had anything been done to car prior to fault that likely effected it such as welding (welding voltage can damage electronics) or other work that might of damaged wiring or antenna wire off the module ? Anything in your current location that could be interfering with fob transmission ...

simplest trick is make tool using old cam belt .

Did replacement sigma come with a code or working keyfob ? did you try doing anything with pin or fob on that unit ? I never done a relearn with siren disconnected, you can but try . If you getting no where you going need source good working used sigma module and be sure buy one with code and/or remote fob supplied . You can buy a bypass plug that goes into the main harness to sigma module that would bypass the sigma immobiliser and get car usable, also can google for m30 bypass wiring/instructions & get car usable while source parts or consider direction want take with final repair solution .

yeah the burns and mcrae subaru era was last of the great manufacturer/drivers and spectator rallying days . My forester and outback have enabled me take diversions from collisions with ease over grass verges and pavements etc . they also do offer pretty good safety in moderate accidents . Last time I almost had an accident due to unmarked police car going down middle of b road on a sweeping bend in fairly poor conditions almost causing me rear end car in front and suv behind me went into grass verge, I was in work diesel 206 van, if I had been in forester or outback I gone over the verge as been safest option . In a lot of circumstances they do give you more ability and more options .

The part you ordered would need programming to work with your ecu and it not likely the issue . You problem is more than likely main module of the M30 alarm . Internal relays on boards can go bad on these and parts can be replaced from a donor board (M30 modules can be had for under £20 if have no code or remote fob with them) A used M30 alarm supplied with pin code and/or working remote is anything between 80 and £120 pending on luck and urgency, it pretty easy plug and play to switch over (we done a lot this way as neat cost effective solution) Last option is bypass it which quite easy and google can help, you loose remote locking and it more of a compromise result over fixing M30 system .

Very eco friendly these new cars when either got do extra joy rides to top up charge or buy trickle charge equipment and keep them constantly on charge All the short life batteries nice bit of recycling pollution too lol . **** poor engineering and completely unfit for purpose if can't leave them unused for over a month . Personally I would take it back and ask for money back, then go buy a proper engineered and built subaru from 1997 to 2005 year range cherry picking best used example you can find . Bank the saved money and live hassle free for a decade plus . Newer vehicles are waste of money and waste of time dealing with the faults & listening to dealer excuses ...

impreza G12 07> Legacy B13 models . based on the superseded part number of 06 onwards 20202AG180 (right) 20202AG190 (left)

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That part of factory system that uses the transponder chip in the key which gets detected by sensor by lock barrel . The keyfob is seperate to this and is Sigma M30 by default for EU market when your model sold here new. To recap, you got 2 systems, standard factory that installed on production line is simple immobiliser circuit control via transponder chip built in the key . This system did not meet EU market requirements so it gets a Sigma M30 alarm which adds siren, door/bonnet sensing, motion sensor and adds additional immobiliser and takes command of remote door locking .

Siren on bulkhead has a rechargeable 9v battery inside it so can actually still sound even with car battery disconnected and by design wired to sound siren if main harnesses tampered with/disconnected .

Hi Melanie, what year/model Forester is this for ?

Few options you could take. This is a used one on eBay and they ship Kenya . Have used them for occasional spares ourselves and they been reliable and nice condition parts . https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/284344229632 If we send out a good used one it be about similar price, £40 for used cylinder and shipping tracked looks to be £25 . New original or top quality aftermarket is £300 range plus shipping. Cheaper but acceptable aftermarket is about £140 plus shipping .

I would assume sigma alarm module fault, you can pick these up used for £100 range with a fob/pin code supplied and quite simply swap over and reprogram fobs and you done. fixing it will be less of a loss than selling ...

because it wrong procedure for Sigma system . Follow what Greenmamba has posted as that correct and what we use . Sounds to me like rolling code not working right so possibly might need swap out main alarm module as can't see issue with 2 known working fobs at same time. try a relearn and perhaps a used keyfob prior to considering alarm module route .

Don't waste time or money on a recon, pick up a used one, better for environment and your wallet . Before you write off the diff you could drain fluid and inspect for excessive metal debris and if isn't any try a slightly thicker oil . Sometimes the whirring sound in rear diff when driving through a bend can be the viscous diff unit and will actually still do fair few thousand miles service (I got a few thrifty farmers that done a decade driving on a noisy rear diff). Is possible when they isolated elecs for welding it upset the alarm further as had issue prior to welding .

Having both fobs not working is not promising of an easy fix but check basics first. Was the second fob known good and gets used a bit or was it most scruffy one of bunch that chucked with all spare keys and never really used. If above is the case I would check/clean/replace battery and try again, checking fob is actually outputting a signal be good too . Is possible receiver on you alarm faulty or a chance something else in you location interfering with signal . It also quite common have battery connection issues and failed buttons on these old fob boards. The alarm is a Sigma M30 system, they cheap to repair if you know about them so don't go throwing stupid money at it as no need . If you do need fobs, repair service is available (services advertise on eBay etc), prices around £25 plus postage . You can also buy a used working fob and program it to your module and swap fob board to your key housing . Same with alarm module if was faulty you can buy this used *must be supplied with pin code or at least 1 working remote* and it can be fitted and your fobs programmed and pin also can be changed to 4 pin you prefer . All above costs very little and we done alarm module swap and key reprogrammed for around £180 in past . Fob issue alone could be solved for real small money . Final option is disable it, this can be done diy and you can actually buy a plug that you put the main module harness into and you bypassed the alarm . The M30 maunual is below which includes programming details . Need any help post again ... M30 Manul link > https://docs.google.com/document/d/0B7Ub2apq5-pfcjJhSm5XUHNyUzQ/edit?usp=sharing&ouid=118227053694960733297&resourcekey=0-0xC3ClnW4kKEblPzZbcQag&rtpof=true&sd=true

Well that is brilliant result . I would take this experience as a cheap education on being more fussy on who works on your cars and doing some research on what jobs involve and best part brands to use. Quite simply experience and knowledge is difference between 5 minutes it fixed or 5 days of misery between yourself and a garage that making a bigger mess of your car the longer they got it in the shop . I worked on Subaru and Japanese cars for over 3 decades, most jobs and faults we know likely scenario before even got car in shop purely as we seen and done/come across it a hundred times already . Now throw some french garbage on my lift and besides sulking as I detest the badly engineered garbage I also be slowed down through lack of knowledge . Quite simply you can't be a master of all makes and issue with subaru is they pretty reliable and pretty quirky so lot of garages hardly ever see one so they got zero practical experience on them thus high potential for less than ideal repairs and plain bad advice should they assume they competent enough take job . Now if you got french and german cars they in the garage more than on the road so most all make garages get to know them well .

sigma m30 ...

both vehicles in same location when it happened ? You have anything new/changed in the location likely interfere with transmitter frequency Perhaps another new vehicle key in you possession/added to keychain and interfering ! Odd both happened at same time, did you try manual pin code overide on either model ? Be careful of charges on alarm diag/repair as lot be clueless on the system and it actually pretty cheap swap out alarm parts for used or bypass it all together . What you do need realise on these is you got 2 immobiliser systems, one is transponder chip system that detects key when near ignition barrel by subaru and the second is the alarm system that you operate via the remote fob, this system is added for euro cars to meet EU security regulations and is not fitted at production line and this alarm system is manufactured by sigma .

good parts make all the difference ... lot of the aftermarket unless top brands or reboxed oem supplier are garbage these days. buying parts that actually work or last is biggest issue we got in the trade currently .

Later diesels are better but still got issues . Problem we had rebuilding them is lot of times block halves can be damaged around bearing journal, bore could be marked and potential a cylinder with bent valves. Crank new revision version is around £400 but ideally you want mate it to the revision block and that gets spendy . Most owners simply can't afford it as been hit with DPF EGR and glow plug bills already and simply not willing feed the money pit several grand more . We had quite a few 09 to 2012 collected for scrap/salvage . I don't know your needs but the older early to mid 2000's cars are far better made and you could select a proper pristine example for pretty small money and have thousands left for some service work/tyres etc make it totally A1 plus plenty money left in bank for the fuel . I do like my Volvo XC's so I can accept your sin ... have fun choosing another Subaru ... make the most of it before battery takeover ...

If you have more than 60 seconds delay from unarming alarm to starting the car the immobiliser in the alarm activates (part of cat1 alarm criteria) what you have do if won't crank when turn key is with key turned to ignition position (dash warning lights on) press keyfob button again and you probably here a relay click, now twist key to crank and your problem hopefully resolved ...

they had an education at your expense by sounds of it ! If you know what you doing you pull the engine as takes about an hour have it out . On older cars not everything goes to plan but experience and brand knowledge can keep problems and costs down . Clutch job on sg9 2.0x should be around £350-450 including decent quality japan clutch or luk . Hope works out okay . Need any more advice post away ... happy new year hopefully 🙂