Mr B

does diagram and part numbers below help . Basically any SG Forester (2.0X, XT etc) with same bumper design will be same parts

Well done, good minimal effort/cost fix is always a nice ending 🙂 If you don't know your 4 digit pin code I would recommend setting a new easy remember 4 digit pin using instructions for programming new pin found at very end of the pdf document .

Sounds likely bad contact/battery, bad button or bad board . Good news is easy program yourself as long as have a least 1 working remote or known 4 digit code for keypad . (if you don't know the 4 digit pin you can set a new one when have a working remote) Highly recommend having 4 digit pin set up as can save huge amount of hassle, time and money ... If your remote is bad you can either pick up a used one and swap board to your key or try a postal repair service for yours . Instructions attached . m30.pdf

It is possible, a very good example Forester SF or SG pre face lift all weather would come in that budget, parts are cheap and they easy work on . SF and SG pre face lift cover years 1998 to 2005, early vehicle far far better made, SF being way better than SG . Main thing will be avoiding rust, rear sub frames, inner arches turrets and inner end sill areas, If you willing have an automatic you likely find clean one easier as lot of the less used examples tend be auto box . The early ones are super reliable,never had a failure or engine light on 3 in my family in 17 years of daily use . Avoid diesel models as in your price range they will be garbage, you could look at petrol SH models but I don't buy them myself as don't like the component quality & suspension design after SG models . Newer you go the more problems & repair cost you will get . The old ones had the number 1 reliability jd powers award several years running for a good reason, they where built proper .

go 15 years older and you get 10 times the quality/durability/reliability at tenth of the cost . Newer vehicles (subaru included) are expensive to maintain short life garbage . This opinion comes from 32 years of repairing vehicles and running an automotive repair business ...

Parts cost seems about right for Sachs in 2020 . After 4 years & 25K most warranty would be out if did have something better. Sachs is the cheaper end option for these diesel foresters. Clutches can be problems on these partially as diesel power output harsh on the DMF . Only brands we use due to needing good quality is LUK or Aisin, we normally use LUK. these parts pretty much double your parts cost . I would use this experience as education and be more fussy on parts that get used and to get warranty terms in writing on jobs like this .

This seller does them (Heated and wide view versions available) https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_ssn=car-parts-market&store_name=carpartsmarket&_oac=1&_trksid=p4429486.m3561.l170197 If you in a jam for saturday MOT just get best size match glass from a local parts factor (avoid halfords and ECP whenever possible) and fit that with some double sided foam pads just to get through MOT then fit proper specific model one after MOT .

don't expect to be driving any newer car for 20 years as most uneconomical repair in less than 15 years . I not biggest believer in 1 owner cars being that special, scenario is that 1 owner can get tight on expenditure in later years of ownership while a second owner would of injected more money . Also looks like that eBay seller flips cars . It likely need new front discs and pads pretty soon and possibly some suspension work . Check front and rear subframes for corrosion ( front is serious known issue, tap/poke test as visual looking is not good enough ) Subaru diesel engine is not always that great and has some well known issues . Not trying put you off, more a case of making you judge the car in a well thought out way. What you got realise is newer car you get the lower the component quality and lifespan is and more expensive and frequent the repairs .

Glad to see the info on rear suspension was useful. Can't go far wrong with the KYB parts, shocks are made in Japan which good thing ... You could put that NS strut and springs on eBay at fair price as someone in need of proper cheap fix likely find it on that platform . I have done used strut replacements but generally only if customer supplies used parts or agreeable to no warranty on part failure , with the self levelling struts being such a known failure part once well aged and clocked up some miles i'm reluctant to use them and prefer new KYB as the cost is very reasonable, end result in ride height/damping good & I can be sure car won't be back with same original issue .

I would recommend KYB excel G shocks and matching heavy duty springs . You can get the KYB shocks for abot £60 each if hunt around on likes of eBay and use a coupon. If getting fussy on ride height and load it heavy or tow you could contact springcoil in UK who can make high quality custom springs to increase height, spring rate or to a progressive spring rate design . The looseness or floaty feel you getting is probably due to failing standard self levelling as it tends create a dead travel range when the height hydrualics/valving not working correctly .

Best price on these oem subaru is amayama online (about £31 delivered) I believe part number for yours is 91039SC160 . https://www.amayama.com/en/part/subaru/91039sc160 Option 2 is aftermarket glass that comes with stick on heated element and you fit it into the plastic backing once old glass removed . https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/391963236338 This can work well but does need a cool head do real nice & not break glass, on older hardened plastic glass backing you may need cut slits in corners of lip that holds glass with a razorblade to give plastic enough flex to fit new glass safely . Used this a lot on old models as a £7 next day parts solution & can fit 100% factory when done right .

probably 42072SA000 Have a word with ICP prior to buying one, they not cheap part .

this is something that should of been a recall but unfortunately wasn't & Subaru avoided dealing with it at their cost . Tends to be hard find a good Gen 4 Cradle Frame rust free used (unless imported used parts) New can be had at half sensible costs possibly if hunt around specialists & google your Cradle Frame part number . First thing want do is double check car once again and be sure no other corrosion/mechanical issues before sinking time/money into it. Swapping cradle out is not super difficult but do nicely takes bit of extra time, your control arms would benefit with new bushes and both cradle and control arms benefit from likes of Dinitrol ML rust treatment internally and a decent black wax coating externally .(Good to do rear suspension/frame too)

well a starter motor fault won't exactly make the immobiliser not function but it would give similar scenario of engine not turning over much same as if immobiliser was on . Testing starter is less than 10 minute job if your garage any good so no need guess on subject of starter functional condition . You don't say what year you Forester is but I would guess it a SG model and has the Sigma m30 alarm system, If the alarm system is at fault simplest solution is buying a used good m30 alarm removed from a Subaru (must be supplied with a working remote or pin code so can be easily programmed to your key fobs) Second solution is bypass/removal of alarm . Fitting used alarm is pretty easy & we fixed a few this way and at sensible cost . Biggest issues you face is most garages clueless and give you poor advice/work for your money .

well a starter motor fault won't exactly make the immobiliser not function but it would give similar scenario of engine not turning over much same as if immobiliser was on . Testing starter is less than 10 minute job if your garagae any good so no need guess on subject of starter functional condition . You don't say what year you Forester is but I would guess it a SG model and has the Sigma m30 alarm system, If the alarm system is at fault simplest solution is buying a used good m30 alarm removed from a Subaru (must be supplied with a working remote or pin code so can be easily programmed to your key fobs) Second solution is bypass/removal of alarm . Fitting used alarm is pretty easy & we fixed a few this way and at sensible cost . Biggest issues you face is most garages clueless and give you poor advice/work for your money .

your vehicle a SG Forester ? Did you use a bearing installer kit with forcing screw or press bearing in with knuckle removed from vehicle ? Most common issue is bearings moved apart slightly when you installed the hub back through the new bearing that been installed into the Knuckle . You need to evaluate your installation & perhaps can tighten driveshaft nut to pull it in & remove play . Is a good chance you may need buy another bearing & fit it again after learning better way install it. Bearing can be ball bearing or tapered roller bearing style . What is important on bearing kits is quality and that generally means Japan mainland bearing only from NTN or KOYO . Forget the cheap garbage from Napa dealers eBay and ECP, We don't use anything but Japan mainland bearings as rest tend be ballache out the box in terms of seals/tolerances or a comeback in few months . Proper quality Japan bearings can be found for cheap money if know what looking for . https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/153402731646 Good luck ...

bolt nut washers and rubber bushes are cheap and sold as a kit , bushes easy install as no metal sleeves (can be done with bit of threaded bar washers and sockets or bits of pipe). 18.95 quid for kit do one side (34.12 quid for pair do both sides) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/354154723601 original parts if preferred as a single side kit 27.50 quid https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/284635692188

Main M30 module easy replace and worth servicing siren with a new 9V rechargeable battery if do repair current M30 setup. You can get whole used M30 system pulled from a subaru cheap on ebay or a local breaker . If it just the main control module you can find them for around 50quid range (just be sure get a key or code with it for easy programming) . Hopefully all works out good and you up and running before xmas ...

It could be Just the Siren faulty (does the pin code allow car start even if siren barking), Siren has a 9v rechargeable battery in it that zip tied to the control board, battery leaks and board corrodes & siren does all sorts of odd things (come across this all the time due to age of them now) . not seen siren cause issue with fobs not working but you never know with electronics mixed with water/corrosion lol The siren is under scuttle panel, is easy open (2 screws down sides of slots for mounting bracket square nuts . you can disconnect siren wiring right at plugs on circuit board . New alarm not a big deal but is super cheap and quick swap out used parts of another working M30 and maintain original all in one keyfob ...

That the Sigma M30 alarm system. One would guess if 2 fobs not working then alarms receiver module got issues . Have you tried disconnecting vehicle battery for few minutes and retrying (including reprogramming fobs) A cheap and technically easy solution to faulty alarm system modules is buying a used complete M30 alarm (must be supplied with at least 1 working fob and/or pin code) & fitting main module/suspected faulty parts & programming fobs (you get extra fob which can be handy and board/casing could be used in one of your keys if needed . We done this method on at least 3 subarus in last year that I can recall & used parts cost was in the range of 80 to 120 quid & we had modules fitted, new 9v battery replacement to siren, new fob batteries and programmed in under 2 hours . Removal or bypassing the M30 is also not that hard but ideally you likely need some alarm/security for insurance purposes !

Buy an older Forester and save the planet, your sanity and your money . New vehicles are total garbage engineered to empty your bank account . The old SF And SG foresters from 98 to 2005 are far better component quality and engineering logic, you can leave then unused for 2 months plus and they'll start right up and battery of sensible quality level could last 4 to 7 years .

Ideal scenario is newest superseding parts, in your case of total damage of block crank then short block good way go . If block good then rebuild with newest crank design can be an option but block had redesigns and suspect flywheel/clutch and torsional damper has too . The cranks tend fatigue so reusing the early model ones never seems good way go . You can crack test & xray cranks but as the early ones known bad you best putting them straight in metal trash & going straight to better/new options . Trouble is a good effort rebuild or replacement new short block is quite costly, you could look at pricing a used 2012 engine & do a long block swap ...

common issue on these is crankshafts snapping and depending on circumstances that can damage block halves around the bearings or beyond . If rebuilding these ideally want use newest revision crankshaft and certainly no machine work to old fatigued crankshafts from known worse failure years of manufacture . These 2008 to 2012 engines are difficult to deal with in terms of guaranteeing worth while outcome from a major overhaul . Clutch plays huge role on torsional stresses crank gets so any replacement dual mass kit needs be ideally subaru oem or at least top spec oem manufacturer aftermarket parts . Here most boxer diesels with major engine issues tend go to scrap as proper effort repair addressing all potential issues you can come across dealing with these is not cost effective & not a 100% perfect result guarantee ...

If you want/need a new flywheel new is certainly close to 1K range, I've used LUK kits and flywheels and like the products .

Indeed they proper made and the 6 cylinder boxers are subarus best engine by far . Downside is fuel prices of today make these spendy to drive anywhere . (insurance and road tax also not great) . The auto box on the early cars was not the most refined or fuel economy helpful . The amount of buyers truly needing a car like this is really quite minimal, proper good condition and sensible low mileage will help sale but from what I see you looking at a price of about 1500 and probably see offers around 900 to 1k if want sell it without much hassle or wasted time . This time of year better for selling capable AWD vehicle but be aware if Israel war escalates and OPEC do an oil embargo fuel prices will go crazy & gas hungry cars like this be even more unwanted as economic/global chaos engulfs all markets .