Mr B

Quite a common issue, window motors go bad from water ingress as water collects in the cast cup body of motor housing (removing motor housing and drilling drain holes helps this issue) As the motors deteriorate they demand more current which damages the switch contacts and causes symptoms you seeing as under load the voltage drop of damaged switch trips the breaker . Another tip source cheaper motors is rears are same as fronts but opposite sides: rear driverside fit front passenger & rear passenger fits front driver (do need clock plastic drain bung to correct orientation and possibly swap cable tails if fussy (on plugs with weather connectors) .

Assuming we talking about Sigma alarm . If you got one working remote and/or working pin code just pick up a tidy decent used fob off eBay, swap the fob board to your key fob and program it to your car alarm module . Some instructions can be found in this post: M30 user manual with full details is attached as pdf . m30.pdf

+1 on OEM thermostats only, all we use as aftermarket can be nothing but problems from our experience . Was the coolant system a muddy mess when pulled the thermostat ? If you unlucky you got bigger issues than thermostat/ water pump (water pump failure pretty much unheard of but you can check the weep hole to see if pump seal leaking) . Best way forward here is system/rad flush, refill and run then do a coolant pressure test see system holding pressure, chemical or exhaust gas tester can be used if no other problems get found to see if got combustion gasses entering coolant system (head gasket failure)

Sounds/symptoms you mention sound likely be centre diff issue, this can sound like a central rear noise & has potential come and go if it control duty effecting type of fault .

Price from amayyama (sourced from Japan stock) is also around the 400 mark so your garage doing proper fair prices . I had 3 rears and some front frames from breakers that pretty good and price was 200 which includes all arms brackets and bolts which saved some additional parts/hardware cost. We clean and coat decent used ones with dinitrol (adds to cost but looks nice and should outlast the next major part failure) Pick best parts out of original and the donor and add in any other suspension parts/hardware if needed . Indeed should be better coated from factory, 2008 onwards is worse than earlier models, front and rear subframes super common on 2009 onwards . We done a front subframe on a 7 year old one, shocking really when I own 3 2000 & 1999 foresters all with original subframes and suspension arms Quite sad but that the reality of modern cars, they garbage ...

It all about what markets well and potentially makes more easy money . reality and common sense takes the back bench, transmission fluids are big one for being left too long. Oils need changing, even if not dirty the viscosity is changing from constant shearing of the oil film . I seen oem gearbox oils look thin as 5w30 as never been changed in decade and reason i'm looking at them is generally transmission noise lol , one earlier decent oil service and these transmission probably still been as quiet as day came out factory. Other big concern these days is replacement parts/service item quality, even the oem stuff has dropped quality massively so you got do some homework or have first hand experience be sure your parts/service items are worthy & not worse than what replacing .

Best bet is pretty clean used, fair few of these diesel foresters in salvage thanks to diesel engine failures, downside is subframes fairly hard find tidy Part number is probably 20152SC024 , try a dealer or specialist such as import car parts or amayama . you likely won't get change out of £600 for new subframe and any other fitting hardware do the job right .

If you had to a stub of new pipe could be welded onto to silencer (clean up and weld to the original weld bead as gives fair bit of material to work the weld puddle . The stub pipe be made length best suited to get to fairly solid piece of original pipe and either sized to slip over original pipe or use a joiner . Hard tell how sensible a solution that would be without actually visually seeing/inspecting it, I done repair to cat sections and silencers before when you can judge will get 3 or 4 more years from it with ease and it generally an hours labour plus small cost of some generic exhaust materials/fittings . Wise money would likely be longer term solution such as a local custom exhaust shop such as a powerflow dealer making up new sections as deemed necessary .

does diagram and part numbers below help . Basically any SG Forester (2.0X, XT etc) with same bumper design will be same parts

Well done, good minimal effort/cost fix is always a nice ending 🙂 If you don't know your 4 digit pin code I would recommend setting a new easy remember 4 digit pin using instructions for programming new pin found at very end of the pdf document .

Sounds likely bad contact/battery, bad button or bad board . Good news is easy program yourself as long as have a least 1 working remote or known 4 digit code for keypad . (if you don't know the 4 digit pin you can set a new one when have a working remote) Highly recommend having 4 digit pin set up as can save huge amount of hassle, time and money ... If your remote is bad you can either pick up a used one and swap board to your key or try a postal repair service for yours . Instructions attached . m30.pdf

It is possible, a very good example Forester SF or SG pre face lift all weather would come in that budget, parts are cheap and they easy work on . SF and SG pre face lift cover years 1998 to 2005, early vehicle far far better made, SF being way better than SG . Main thing will be avoiding rust, rear sub frames, inner arches turrets and inner end sill areas, If you willing have an automatic you likely find clean one easier as lot of the less used examples tend be auto box . The early ones are super reliable,never had a failure or engine light on 3 in my family in 17 years of daily use . Avoid diesel models as in your price range they will be garbage, you could look at petrol SH models but I don't buy them myself as don't like the component quality & suspension design after SG models . Newer you go the more problems & repair cost you will get . The old ones had the number 1 reliability jd powers award several years running for a good reason, they where built proper .

go 15 years older and you get 10 times the quality/durability/reliability at tenth of the cost . Newer vehicles (subaru included) are expensive to maintain short life garbage . This opinion comes from 32 years of repairing vehicles and running an automotive repair business ...

Parts cost seems about right for Sachs in 2020 . After 4 years & 25K most warranty would be out if did have something better. Sachs is the cheaper end option for these diesel foresters. Clutches can be problems on these partially as diesel power output harsh on the DMF . Only brands we use due to needing good quality is LUK or Aisin, we normally use LUK. these parts pretty much double your parts cost . I would use this experience as education and be more fussy on parts that get used and to get warranty terms in writing on jobs like this .

This seller does them (Heated and wide view versions available) https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_ssn=car-parts-market&store_name=carpartsmarket&_oac=1&_trksid=p4429486.m3561.l170197 If you in a jam for saturday MOT just get best size match glass from a local parts factor (avoid halfords and ECP whenever possible) and fit that with some double sided foam pads just to get through MOT then fit proper specific model one after MOT .

don't expect to be driving any newer car for 20 years as most uneconomical repair in less than 15 years . I not biggest believer in 1 owner cars being that special, scenario is that 1 owner can get tight on expenditure in later years of ownership while a second owner would of injected more money . Also looks like that eBay seller flips cars . It likely need new front discs and pads pretty soon and possibly some suspension work . Check front and rear subframes for corrosion ( front is serious known issue, tap/poke test as visual looking is not good enough ) Subaru diesel engine is not always that great and has some well known issues . Not trying put you off, more a case of making you judge the car in a well thought out way. What you got realise is newer car you get the lower the component quality and lifespan is and more expensive and frequent the repairs .

Glad to see the info on rear suspension was useful. Can't go far wrong with the KYB parts, shocks are made in Japan which good thing ... You could put that NS strut and springs on eBay at fair price as someone in need of proper cheap fix likely find it on that platform . I have done used strut replacements but generally only if customer supplies used parts or agreeable to no warranty on part failure , with the self levelling struts being such a known failure part once well aged and clocked up some miles i'm reluctant to use them and prefer new KYB as the cost is very reasonable, end result in ride height/damping good & I can be sure car won't be back with same original issue .

I would recommend KYB excel G shocks and matching heavy duty springs . You can get the KYB shocks for abot £60 each if hunt around on likes of eBay and use a coupon. If getting fussy on ride height and load it heavy or tow you could contact springcoil in UK who can make high quality custom springs to increase height, spring rate or to a progressive spring rate design . The looseness or floaty feel you getting is probably due to failing standard self levelling as it tends create a dead travel range when the height hydrualics/valving not working correctly .

Best price on these oem subaru is amayama online (about £31 delivered) I believe part number for yours is 91039SC160 . https://www.amayama.com/en/part/subaru/91039sc160 Option 2 is aftermarket glass that comes with stick on heated element and you fit it into the plastic backing once old glass removed . https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/391963236338 This can work well but does need a cool head do real nice & not break glass, on older hardened plastic glass backing you may need cut slits in corners of lip that holds glass with a razorblade to give plastic enough flex to fit new glass safely . Used this a lot on old models as a £7 next day parts solution & can fit 100% factory when done right .

probably 42072SA000 Have a word with ICP prior to buying one, they not cheap part .

this is something that should of been a recall but unfortunately wasn't & Subaru avoided dealing with it at their cost . Tends to be hard find a good Gen 4 Cradle Frame rust free used (unless imported used parts) New can be had at half sensible costs possibly if hunt around specialists & google your Cradle Frame part number . First thing want do is double check car once again and be sure no other corrosion/mechanical issues before sinking time/money into it. Swapping cradle out is not super difficult but do nicely takes bit of extra time, your control arms would benefit with new bushes and both cradle and control arms benefit from likes of Dinitrol ML rust treatment internally and a decent black wax coating externally .(Good to do rear suspension/frame too)

well a starter motor fault won't exactly make the immobiliser not function but it would give similar scenario of engine not turning over much same as if immobiliser was on . Testing starter is less than 10 minute job if your garage any good so no need guess on subject of starter functional condition . You don't say what year you Forester is but I would guess it a SG model and has the Sigma m30 alarm system, If the alarm system is at fault simplest solution is buying a used good m30 alarm removed from a Subaru (must be supplied with a working remote or pin code so can be easily programmed to your key fobs) Second solution is bypass/removal of alarm . Fitting used alarm is pretty easy & we fixed a few this way and at sensible cost . Biggest issues you face is most garages clueless and give you poor advice/work for your money .

well a starter motor fault won't exactly make the immobiliser not function but it would give similar scenario of engine not turning over much same as if immobiliser was on . Testing starter is less than 10 minute job if your garagae any good so no need guess on subject of starter functional condition . You don't say what year you Forester is but I would guess it a SG model and has the Sigma m30 alarm system, If the alarm system is at fault simplest solution is buying a used good m30 alarm removed from a Subaru (must be supplied with a working remote or pin code so can be easily programmed to your key fobs) Second solution is bypass/removal of alarm . Fitting used alarm is pretty easy & we fixed a few this way and at sensible cost . Biggest issues you face is most garages clueless and give you poor advice/work for your money .

your vehicle a SG Forester ? Did you use a bearing installer kit with forcing screw or press bearing in with knuckle removed from vehicle ? Most common issue is bearings moved apart slightly when you installed the hub back through the new bearing that been installed into the Knuckle . You need to evaluate your installation & perhaps can tighten driveshaft nut to pull it in & remove play . Is a good chance you may need buy another bearing & fit it again after learning better way install it. Bearing can be ball bearing or tapered roller bearing style . What is important on bearing kits is quality and that generally means Japan mainland bearing only from NTN or KOYO . Forget the cheap garbage from Napa dealers eBay and ECP, We don't use anything but Japan mainland bearings as rest tend be ballache out the box in terms of seals/tolerances or a comeback in few months . Proper quality Japan bearings can be found for cheap money if know what looking for . https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/153402731646 Good luck ...

bolt nut washers and rubber bushes are cheap and sold as a kit , bushes easy install as no metal sleeves (can be done with bit of threaded bar washers and sockets or bits of pipe). 18.95 quid for kit do one side (34.12 quid for pair do both sides) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/354154723601 original parts if preferred as a single side kit 27.50 quid https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/284635692188