Mr B

^ as above really... ideally want remove lower cover & revisit it as certainly don't look like a decent job .

I think 10 could be a good one but I'll let it sort itself out first & get bugs, more drivers & tweaks developed before I test it.

I use couple of lenovo's, f11 at boot should be one for factory recovery if you have a working recovery partition on the hdd. What I would do is use an iso of windows 7 ultimate & then use windowsloader-v2.2.2 to activate it, as you had valid oem windows 7 on it you will have right bios SLIC & all windowsloader will do is add the cert & key to make it oem activated same as was originally. I'm sticking with current 7 for quite some time as everything running perfect & don't want hassles with workshop computers when running A1 smooth & fast on unbloated 7 from SSD drives .. old is sometimes gold. chasing new os updates is not always best ...

good jap bearings are 30 to 40 £ each set, hub bearing puller tool can be had for snip under £44 & good enough for diy enthusiasm & light trade use. these kits make it real easy & less chance of damaging a bearing during fitting. Hubs & spindle normally ok unless bearing got silly hot or seized & spun. main trick is don't use cheap or non jap bearings & get it fitted by someone who knows what they doing or wheel bearing failure start becoming a monthly problem ...

Good luck Phil ...

yep sigma, you could get the wiring diagram for that & temory cut the feed to indicators which would prove area of fault or eliminate the alarm perhaps. Quite sure I come across similar issue of indicators stuck on & it was sigma module with bad relay for the indicator control, relay was soldered in the module too :-/ Jumping the gun a bit as need some more clues first ...

What alarm is it ? Could be main indicator relay but I would be more inclined think linked to alarm relay for flashers. Try arming disarming alarm & see if sometimes or a t least once they don't stay on .

Possibly ballast or bad wiring. Best bet is a used tested ballast if you find ballast is the fault. they are a pain to get to as you already suggest. As for indicator issue I would think it likely relay in alarm module for indicators I assume if put fuse in with car running indicators will work fine but when arm/disarm alarm you get the issue !? If is alarm a quick fix could be going into alarm setting via keypad (assume you got sigma) and turn off setting for indicator flash & then test. sigma manual below if applicable to you ... https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7Ub2apq5-pfcjJhSm5XUHNyUzQ/view?usp=sharing EDIT: looks like bleeps is only one selectable in settings & not indicators :-/

another reason many get odd alignment readings is because many staff do real sloppy job on setting up & using equipment so be real sure you shop & staff are above average or you just wasting good money.

Most garages who use to doing these will do it on car using a bearing puller kit, it far quicker & also a very smooth way of fitting the bearing. Buy top quality jap bearings only, any local bearing shop can do these or as stants suggests use ICP (importcarparts.co.uk), price should be about £35 per bearing kit. If doing yourself look at getting a bearing puller such as this > http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/23PC-FRONT-CAR-WHEEL-BEARING-REMOVAL-INSTALLATION-TOOL-KIT-GARAGE-MECHANIC-SET-/321818864951?hash=item4aede62d37

Michelin Latitude Cross are nice daily road & off road tyre, Continental ContiCrossContact LX also not bad & ok for light off road.

^ I would pick up a Banner or Yausa brand from local motor factor as good batts, their stock cycle good so battery fresh & well cared for & warranty is good & easy, Only 2 brands I use as got fed up with other makes & too common short life span.

bad battery !

2 tyre sizes I use a lot for off road foresters is 205/75/15 & 215/75/15, the 215/75/15 is almost same size as 215/70/16, I found them to be ok even for quite heavy load/towing as well as light off road use & not notice much difference in power/torque due to the larger diameter tyres effect on gearing ...

s.devon, 14miles south of exeter. I would say the drop link mounts are not bad as is, the main arb mount bracket are probably first weak link & only really major problem if corroded, super easily modded with a plate welded on side & feeding off to feet that bolt to chassis much along the lines of the whiteline ones .

here's a complete slide pin kit > http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SUBARU-LEGACY-MK1-2-3-1989-2003-FRONT-CALIPER-SLIDER-PIN-KIT-GUIDES-BCF1393D-/231306192072?hash=item35daec64c8 won't be much use if current cailiper mount bracket not serviceable. You should find a used caliper complete with bracket on eBay or a good breaker for 25 to £35 !

i would much prefer improving the standard mounts. I doubt you will have much issue on road driving with the prodrive arb & standard mounts but track could work them real hard. Proper job would be mild reinforcing them as saves hassle of a possible breakage plus keeps them more rigid so arb can do it's job well, would be cheap I expect as can't see it taking more than hour for good garage welder beef them up a bit.

^ will do stants ...

A bit more welding for you Theador ... rear bracket on the SG for the DL is single tab but it quite secure welds onto the lateral link, could be improved with more welds & a edge fin welded down onto lateral link on the nut side same as non nut side to stiffen it up & secure it further. easy job for any good welder & wouldn't cost mush to do both main arb maounts & DL mounts as not much materials needed & wouldn't take very long ... pic below from subaru workshop manual of SG DL ... Those prodrive arb's on ebay were well cheap, would of bought 2 or 3 off them if had spotted it ...

maybe this will help ! http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Legacy%20Outback/2007/

As stants suggests, you could strengthen standard foz brackets, you could also cut-n-shut sti & foz bracket & strengthen. if standard brackets are quite rusty then deffo want source better but if clean a decent bit of welding work will get them close to WL strength.

I would go with KYB exel Gs at £53 each on the rear (damping rates are higher on these over standard), add some custom springs from springcoil spec'd slightly higher rate than standard & dropped 25-35mm at most. custom springs front & rear would probably be around £230. It will be all new, vehicle will sit right without hassle & it will handle far better. You will notice a night & day difference with just bad SLS removed so adding cutsom spec springs improves things a little more, done the odd XT with springcoil sourced springs & always been impressed with end results.

^ Yes, even if do a full set you will find rear sag & need spacer on the strut hat ... Best option is custom springs from springcoil.co.uk if you want something different ...